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thedawnpatrol

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Posts posted by thedawnpatrol

  1. Your windscreen appears to be the late "high" type.

     

    They increased the height of the windscreen by approx. 3" at some point in the production of the PU . This modification may have been because they had problems with the canvas top flapping about and hitting the occupants ! I have a PU Windscreen frame that has been

    " field modified" - somebody has welded in 3" extensions each side .

     

    The colour you have chosen looks nice, it appears to be Light Bronze Green , from the BSC colour chart ? I found that colour as the original base colour on one of my CS8's , its a light grassy green . Mike

     

    yes Mike your right, it is the higher windscreen as it's a 1941 production model, i'm sure it will be nicer to drive without the canvas flapping on my head !

     

    The colour is extreamly close to Khaki Green No3 and i matched it from a lovely clean area of original paint on the Voltage regulator bracket, when i removed the Voltage Reg, there it was, i have kept that bit original.

  2. JULES the set up shown is correct and yes those two threads are finer than the others

     

    Thanks guys,

     

    yes, i think i know the set up, the top right pipe from the Autovac goes to the induction manifold, the top left to the fuel cock ( connected), then the bottom pipe from the Autovac goes to the fuel filter then the Carb.

     

    my problem is, i need one more fine threaded female connector to go on the induction pipe so it can screw onto the Autovac ?

     

    any ideas ?

     

    thanks for your help

     

    Jules

  3. I'm just plumbing the fuel system on the Morris PU.

     

    I have noticed that there are two different threads used, on all the pipe ends, tank selector cock and fuel filter the mail threads are all the same, quite a course thread, however on the two outlets on the Autovac unit the threads are the same size but a finer thread?

     

    Is this the norm, or are the two outlets in my Autovac wrong ? ( this assembly was missing when I got the truck)

     

    image.jpg

     

     

     

    Jules

  4. Looking nice

     

    re: the brake pipes, they used a strange single flared end on the pipes . I am wondering what you are planning on doing ?

     

    Are you making the bodywork from scratch ? My unrestored PU is pretty original - you need any details let me know and I will check it out for you . Do you have my set of drawings ?

     

    Did you reset the springs? If so, how did you do it ?

     

    Hello Mike

     

    i have a tool for flaring the ends like the originals, but looking at the originals being brass, they are very good and probably more solid than the modern brake tubing, however i will evaluate each section as i go.

    yes, i do have a copy of your excellent drawings they were a great use to me with the Humber PU and will again for the Morris.

     

    one tiny detail that is baffling me is the position of the brass fuel filter that sits behind the carb, and i believe bolts at the top onto the inlet manifold ? any photos of that area would be really useful please.

     

    cheers

     

    Jules

  5. QqWell, sorry for the long time in last posting progress on the PU , I have been busy with all the small bits like the brake systems and both axles were worked on a few months ago, along with rebuilding the leaf springs.

     

    So, following the chassis blasting and primer coat, followed by two good coats of Khaki green number 3 , there was just one thing stopping me from starting the build up, our 1970 Triumph Herald, in the garage, well that was sold last weekend so work got straight underway on assembly, so last week saw the chassis married to the axles via the leaf springs, wheels on temporary to aid movement.

     

    image.jpg

     

     

     

    So this weekend it was time to drop the engine & gearbox in thanks to Tom, it went well

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

  6. It is a reconstruction built by a previous owner probably in last 15/20 years

     

    having agreed on that it is a 'reconstruction' it is still a very fair price in order to start with a good ? chassis, engine and running gear.

    finishing, if done properly with a vehicle worth twice that in any format, Box, PU or Ambulance .

     

    Jules

  7. I have used Warpaint for several projects now and very pleased whether sprayed or painted.

    I have done a lot of research re ww2 British paint colours, but the best source is Mike Starmers book.

     

    Early/ Mid war, your looking at khaki green No3 or later (1944/45) British olive drab.

     

    Warpaint will help and mix to your finish, I always go for full Matt.

     

    Jules

  8. Nice enough vehicle, have seen it before.

    had arranged to look at it today but got let down waiting for the lorry driver picking up the searchlight down near Dover :(

     

    if only I hadn't brought another british project ;) I'm running out of space :P

     

    Don't forget to save some space for your Morris PU project! Chassis is here when you want it mate......

  9. Hi Tailgunner

     

    Looks like you have made good progress so far, not easy to find turret cupolas, though back in the 1980's we recovered about 6 Lancaster mid upper turret cupolas in Oxfordshire being used as garden clotches !

     

    We swapped them for various other aeroplane parts at the time........

     

    Sorry I can't help with anything else, but good luck.

     

    Jules

  10. [quote name=Jelleyboy;461262

     

    I know I need to drill 2 additional holes on the windscreen sections to allow the motors through' date=' going to hopefully attach to the unused panel switch on the dash if it works.

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Luke

     

    Luke,

    This may sound obvious, when drilling the extra holes, remember you are very close to the edge of the glass. Be very careful.

     

    Jules

  11. Richard,

     

    Check the contacts where the fuse pushes in on the lower part of the control box, these often get dirty / corroded give it a rub with some emery cloth.

     

    other than that the CAV boxes are quite often available, but very few are NOS. I have several on the shelf, in various states.

     

    Cheers

     

    Jules

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