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jack neville

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About jack neville

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  1. Morris Tilly late model

    No formal qualifications or training but plenty of tips and advise from the many people you meet over the years in this hobby. The comraderie of military vehicle restorers always means people prepared to share their knowledge and help others. And then you just need to have a crack.
  2. Morris Tilly late model

    Andy, if you go back to post 135 you will see I cut two pieces of 20mm form ply the desired shape. These were tightly clamped each side of the panel. It is then simply a matter of tapping gently all the way around the circumference just slowly stretching the panel bit by bit. I used a nylon hammer to minimise bruising the sheetmetal. If you hit too hard in any one spot you can over stretch and tear the panel. It is all about taking time to work it slowly. Each guard took about and hour. You can do an awful lot of panel work with pieces of angle iron,flat steel, and a lot of clamps. I find a swivel vice mounted on a pedestal that you can work all around much more versatile than any bench. These methods I find are more accurate and versiitile than folders. Lots of small folds can be done with pliers. Everything then needs finishing off with a panel hammer and dolly. Cold rolled panel steel is very malleable and designed to work like this.
  3. Diamond T Gallery

    Sounds like you have a parts truck Mike.
  4. I have only just completed two full sets of Luvax dampers for two Morris Tilly's. Total strip down and reassembly. A bit fiddly but simple enough. You will need a press.
  5. Morris Tilly late model

    If you have an area of sheet metal that is stretched or bulged as I found when putting this floor back in, you can shrink the metal. Apply heat to a spot where the bulge is obvious. This will cause as you say the metal in that spot to expand and bulge up in the area that is red hot. Whilst it is red hot, hammer and dolly that bulge down flat. You need to act quickly and it is easier to have an assistant use the torch. As you get it hammered flat quickly quench that area with a wet rag and this will cause the metal to contract and shrink. You might need to do a few shrinks to get the area tight as evidenced by the hot spots seen on the floor. You can also get stainless steel discs for use in an angle grinder to achieve a similar effect whereby you use friction from the disc and a water spray bottle rather than a hammer and dolly and torch.
  6. Diamond T gauges

    Thanks Sam. The truck is largely complete and I have most parts. It was a wrecker, early one of which only 507 were made apparently. It will be restored as a cargo as I have none of the wrecker gear. If I can't find a NOS gauge it might be able to be rebuilt hopefully. I've seen a few of these other early wreckers in Australia that had the early civvy gauges replaced with military gauges. The original larger holes were just blanked off and recut. The running gear on mine appears intact and I have a complete changeover engine I got from Sam Winer in the States. It has a French rebuild plate dated 1962. The cab is rough but restorable and I have the remains of a timber body to rebuild. Just waiting to clear another project before I can begin. Need some of the glad hand fittings if you have them.
  7. I have a 1941 Diamond T 969 to restore when I get a few other projects out of the way. In the meantime I am hunting down parts. This gauge has so far eluded me. It is the multi gauge for temperature, oil, fuel and amps. I haven't pulled this from the dash as yet so it may be able to be rebuilt but I am hoping someone may have a NOS gauge.
  8. Ford v8 gun tractor

    There is the Australian pattern Ford/Marmon Herrington No3 gun tractor and (3A with winch)
  9. Hello from Victoria, Aus

    Thanks Richard. I have emailed them. Excellent work. Jack
  10. Hello from Victoria, Aus

    Thanks Richard, Yes for the Tilly's. I have salvaged enough parts to complete one steering box except for the cam bearings. The second box needs a rocker shaft but i'm hoping the best shaft I have can be machined down a fraction to accommodate oversized bushes. The cam bearings are listed in the Tilly parts book as Ball Cup (for cam) (Cam Gears 8527) Part # 37491 Ball Cage (with balls) (Cam Gears 7712) Part # 37490 I am surprised how hard some of the Morris parts are to find given how many of these cars must have been made. Any help appreciated. Jack
  11. Hello from Victoria, Aus

    Currently rebuilding the two steering boxes and need new worm bearings. Anyone have any idea of a source of new bearings. Had no luck on the internet so far. Jack Neville
  12. Thanks John. i will take the inner handles and winders. I have good doors but the outer left handle is broken in half. They are the curvy types. Cancell the hood. I think the freight cost will be prohibitive and I can channel that money into repairing mine I think. Any of the Gladhand air fittings I will take that you have as well as any gauges. I also need the steering column mounting bracket. My truck is converted to right hand drive and that bracket is missing an a foreign bracket fitted. I want to return it to LHD. You can contact me at madness20241@hotmail.com thanks Jack
  13. John, I have an early 969 hardcab with the civvy gauges. Looking for - left door handle. - early style guages - a good solid hood (mine is riddled with rust) - inner door handles and window winders - auxilary air fittings Regards Jack
  14. WOT wheels

    Did anyone ever get these?
  15. Fordson wot2h woes

    Glen, just reading this thread for the first time. Did you get your troubles sorted? I have a WOT2H in Australia that gets driven regularly on hot days. It is fitted with a Jolley Engineering electronic ignition set up and an electric fuel pump hidden under the floor. I don't use thermostats in Australia on this engine. It gets hot around my feet obviously due to the poor air flow around the engine but the engine doesn't overheat even on hot days. The radiator is original. Just wondering how you got on. jack
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