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8_10 Brass Cleaner

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Everything posted by 8_10 Brass Cleaner

  1. For the use the Peerless is going to get I dare say it probably doesn't matter what Messrs Gosling use as lube - they are not going to wear the chains out. And in anycase Reynold Chain is still availible new. I'd simply assemble with a smear on each pin and hole as they go back together, using the thickest grease I could lay my hands on. Messy job, but no big deal. If you did want to go the boiling in semi grease route, I'd be tempted in buying an old electric 'Burco' off facebook marketplace. And do it in one of them. I suspect more grease needed than above. As for the 'special' chain wax, probably similar to the beard wax used by such individuals. Some beef tallow would be ideal surely?
  2. It might sound daft, but I found scaffold boards a good source of wide planks. All graded, good stuff, so it shouldnt split, though not hardwood. Plenty of meat for planing to thickness too. I think they were well over 1 inch I guess they are 9-10inch or so wide. I made the steps for my living van out of ones bought new at B&Q. They were not cheap, but they were off the shelf, easy peasy to find.
  3. cool. Thanks for that. It was in Ruthin in 1991.
  4. just spotted this. This was literally down the road from Ian McGregors place in Hirwaen. Father used to sell him small items for the various restorations. I recall having a ride in a Russian tank once. Seeing various sherman tanks and anti aircraft guns, including german ones on big solid rubber tyred wheels. Also he kept some M5's I think in the yard where we distmantled our steam roller. His youngest son, in the year above me at school used to be dropped off occasionally in a jeep. I had to make do with vintage cars. His older brother had an Opel Manta 400 atnone point
  5. I have a recollection that Barclays did very similar to my local north wales heritage arms dealer about 20years ago.
  6. cutting them is easy. Use a nice new square edge on a grinding disk/wheel to put a groove in it all the way around and bang one end on the bench and itll snap there. Then run the jagged edge under a oxy/acet/propane flame to smooth off. Or just again use a grinding wheel
  7. The D16 is also used on the Austin 7. Some prefer the hotter D21.
  8. For a wartime lorry I have to say you can't really beat a fully floating bronze bush for durability and simple repair. If a taper roller goes wrong, without a new one your snookered. Once its knackered, its knackered. Most of the issues that could go wrong with a bronze bush can be mended sufficiently well for onward progress by a half trained monkey with a hammer and a file and a tin of oil. Quite important I'd say if the Germans or Turks were firing shells at you I'd say.
  9. the speed limit for a resilient tyre (i.e solid tyre) is 25mph anyway
  10. It seems to be the latest fad, bit like the fad that all vintage cars owners need leather satchels strapped to the running boards to carry their lunch in.............
  11. Its gone to a home who were already restoring an incomplete similar vehicle. Importantly they have an appropriate (and old) body for it. I'm sure it will emerge in due course fully restored in an appropriate form.
  12. I used some of that sealant on the fuel tank of my Austin 7, some 20years ago. After having repaired a single hole with some epoxy. Its still going strong 21 years later.
  13. This makes me chuckle. The sale of the tank from a very famous uk scrap yard was very well known, even by me who only has a passing interest in military vehicles. Basically he bought it off Jack Hardwick, wasn't it in the late 1970's?.
  14. Dunno where the pics went Andrew, I assume Ive seen it on Facebook. Looks like you have a pretty complete Liberty B there now. This forum is very good, but its not high volume, so patience is needed with respect to interest or comment. Typically I visit approx once a week, not because I have no interest, but rather because I do, but if I visited daily there would generally be little to see.
  15. I had a good discussion with Richard Hallett about back axle oil some time ago. Specifically with regards to bronze components and my Austin 7. Castrol D140 is recommended, I was using Morris AG140 with no complaints. A very common substitution. His advice was similar to Daimlers, that a ISO 460 Steam cylinder/bearing oil is more or less an equivalent to the SAE 140 gear. A straight oil being direct equivalent, but a compounded oil was likely to be better. Given that like you I run a steamer, and have ISO 460 compounded bearing oil in stock (for the total loss system), I just use that now, for both steam bearings and Austin axles.
  16. Thats exactly what they are Richard. I've got 4 on my living van. Centurion Tank onwards. Actually termed 'Road wheels'. The idler is technically the undriven wheel at one end of the track. But everyone calls these 'idlers'
  17. if your not happy with your hubcap, I believe I have a tidy one here.
  18. just come off a J type too, by the looks of it!
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