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Diana and Jackie

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Posts posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. 30 minutes ago, andym said:

    What she said!

    Isn't that white one just a filler/strain relief anyway?  A headset only uses six cores.



    The core is indeed a filler and not a conductor. No matter what a new lead is quicker, and easier than messing about trying to repair this


  2. Helston Gunsmiths ? - but take out a bank loan first.





    I'm currently helping to restore/rebuild a CVR(W) Fox, I'm in need of a drivers instrument and switch panel. The current one fitted has a damaged multi pin socket, 3 u/s switches, and the fuse holder has degraded and is now starting to fall to pieces, so thought easier to replace then repair, if anyone has any idea where I can get one, or point me in the right direction I'd be greatly appreciative.

  3. Superglue...Bostik, Evostik breakdown with age. They were probably vulcanised on.



    Oh dear. Sent the fuel tank off for cleaning and they've broken 3 of the 4 mounting brackets. These consist of two metal plates separated by a rubber bush that is glued on, and those have become unstuck.


    Does anyone know if the rubber bush can somehow be glued back on, and if so, with what (or by whom)?


    I might be able to source some if all else fails, but not sure if they're the correct hands.


    Or any other suggestions for alternative way to mount the tank - I must say I'm not entirely sure that resilient rubber mountings are really necessary, given the small amount of driving done. Thought of putting a bolt through to hold the pieces together and maybe that would work?




  4. Remove the runflat insert, use the correct size inner tube. You will also need a rim band, there are rim bands and rim bands, the correct rim band is thickened where the tube valve protrudes through it, since the cutout in a Ferret rim is quite wide and long.


    The thickening supports the tube valve stem.






    After replacing the dunlop trak grips on my ferret ive discovered that the rubber runflat hoop is too narrow to work with new tires (michelin zxl 255/100r16)


    Does anyone have a tire (900-16) that has the same bead thickness as the old ones?


    Have most people just left the hoop out and surrendered the funflat capability?


    Has anyone done a modern beadlock system to retain the runflat capabilities?


    Cheers !

  5. It's your Ferret as a few have said. One point to bear in mind, If/When you come to sell it you may have a few problems.


    People like to buy as near as original as possible.





    Hi all, im new here!


    Im planning to modernize my ferret mk 2 to a usable/practical level. I realize some of you wont like my ideas and id love to get some discussion going :) its done 312miles on the odo


    Im not a serious prepper but my goal is to have the vehicle ready for an emergency situation.


    Things i have done so far:

    • Replaced original 60yo tire with michelin zxl 255/100r16 tires. Runflat hoop would no longer fit as it was loose due to thinner beads on modern tires.
    • Replaced rotten muffler with stainless nonbaffled muffler
    • Oil change and fluid top ups
    • Repaired driving lights
    • Resleeved brake master
    • Full road registration for queensland


    Things im thinking of doing:

    Installing modern bead locks on wheels to replace the runflat feature of the rubber hoops

    Replacing some or all hatches with ballistic glass

    Upgrsding brakes to boosted disc breaks

    Replacing b60 with carbied stroked 408 ford small block

    Removing all excess interior components and installing padded trim and bucket seat.

    Fabricating insulated firewall to reduce cockpit noise and heat and help safety

    Installing blackout headlights and tail lights.

    Turn turret into a water cannon using pressure tanks.

  6. Item 24 shows the seal, its a standard synthetic rubber seal along with its dimensions - so you should be able to get one at a seal supplier or online.








    Yes I have the parts lists but the MOD and Nato numbers are not showing up much info. I was wondering if these are available as commercial parts.

  7. Why have you not got the spare parts manual (common items)? That would answer a lot of your questions.





    The flange is held on with bolts and roll pins, right? I have the mother of all bearing pullers, so I am sure I will be able to rig something up, if it doesn't want to play ball.


    Can anyone tell me what the seals actually are? One may be just a large o-ring, which is easy to source, but not sure about the fibre seal (presumably a dust seal)?

  8. The Xmod did have quill shaft seals, as I bought a pair! but check against The Alvis Part number not the FV/NSN number.


    There is also a tool to remove the final drive, a hinged bar which screws into the large bolt hole above the final drive, supported at the opposite end by a jack, a chain is slung over the bar and fixed to the two oil drain hole. guide pins are screwed into the hull through the final drive and the drive is slid along the bar when unbolted.





    Try Bannisters but I think it may also be a commercially available one. I know the Quill shaft seal is special as I had a few sets made up some years ago.

  9. Successfully used T wash on electro tin plate - depends what is meant by tin plate..as detailed below.





    IMHO - you have it wrong here , not 'Tin-plate' for fuel tanks , traditionally (as Rolls Royce etc. etc.) the material is "Terne" steel. I doubt you will have ancient Terne with a high tin content (the major part of the coating in any case would be Lead to abt. 80%). The Lead = anti-corrosion. The Tin content I suppose is more for seamingand caulking of lapped folds. Effectively you wish to paint Lead , there is no good primer for , even a etch. Your best bet for 'grip' would be to paint direct on the metal , a light abrade with Scotchbrite rather than a oxidised surface - then spray with a black proper single-pack 'Machinery Enamel' that is oil and fuel resistant. This takes about 1 month to through dry unless it is stoved . Air dry - such as Tractol would be typical.

  10. The relay will have been set up to pull in at a certain voltage and release at a certain voltage, both within the limits of spring pressure.


    Without knowing what they actually are it will be best guess, and yes the contact gap with the relay released will also have been specified to be within a certain tolerance.





    Yes, it sticks on when you push the button, engine starts , but does not release. On inspection you can see where the points have "arced"

    I take on board about the cleaning of the points. I actually swapped the points from the NBC one next to it, as everything appears the same, and were in better condition . Is there suppose to be a correct gap setting between the points?. Have not retested yet at the moment, Cheers Andrew.

  11. When you say sticking is it sticking on (operated) or off (released)


    Clean the backstop, armature face and armature pivot, meths will be fine, be careful with some contacts cleaners as they dissolve things. DO NOT OIL!


    If it's sticking on increase the spring pressure and if off decrease. Also clean the contacts, burnishing with a flat screwdriver is fine, DO NOT USE a file, alternatively polishing paper.


    Try the cleaning before altering spring pressure.




    How common is the problem of the starter relay sticking on when you start? I see the manual says, if it happens, give the distribution box a bang with your hand , to unstick it. Is this relay a common part to other vehicles of the era and readily available? Also I am trying to find some of these spring leaves for the Breech block off the Scorp, has anyone seen these as a spare part ?, Thanks Andrew.

  12. Have you cleaned and checked the carburettor as well as and especially the condition of the diaphragms?







    Thank you; knowing where to source parts is a good start. 🙂


    Now, has anybody experienced anything like the misfire I described? The last time I dealt with an engine running roughly like this, the problem was exhaust gases leaking into the intake side but I can't see how that would be possible with the design of the B series. Any thoughts?

  13. Hi Robin,


    Yes it was quite problematic, the handbrake didn't work, I had an oil leak from a front wheel hub, easily fixed by reseating the rubber donut, and lots of other work, a new door and roof rear seal, the list goes on and on, The roof and rear body need a respray


    When I have time I'll put some pics up, but I'm busy at the moment.





    Looks grand, know you have done a lot of work to get to that stage.


    Love to see more of it

  14. Or "Enemy Prisoners Wireless" so the two men are most likely German, so it's a captured 18 set?





    Who are these men? What are they doing? Why are they doing it? Where are they doing it?


    The photo does seem to be an opportunity for appropriate captions, which are welcomed. I will start this off with:


    "Broadsword calling Danny Boy, Broadsword calling Danny Boy"



  15. Testing a dynamotor? (with the AVO?)




    Who are these men? What are they doing? Why are they doing it? Where are they doing it?


    The photo does seem to be an opportunity for appropriate captions, which are welcomed. I will start this off with:


    "Broadsword calling Danny Boy, Broadsword calling Danny Boy"



  16. Try Ray-tek on ebay.





    Would anyone happen to know a source for Military specification nuts and bolts? Most of the mil spec hex head bolts seem to be smaller across the flats of the head for its given size to the off the shelf items. Some instances conventional nuts and bolts are fine but others require the smaller head sizes for clearance when in position. Done the usual internet searching with little luck.



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