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Diana and Jackie

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Posts posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. Quite clearly Richard given your vast experience and you have worked on this equipment for a living, you do know what you are talking about.

     

    Obviously my thoughts and yours run in a similar vein therefore it must be a mod worth doing.

     

    Diana

     

     

    I do get the point as it happens, having been working on Ferrets for around 36 years, I do know my way around them. Often people stick an oil gun in the level plug and get a blob of oil shoot out and think they are full, where it is far from full. There is a guy who has done this mod before, a bit of thought and it could work. A lot of improvements can be made to these vehicles to make servicing less of a chore.

     

    So when you check the levels it takes more than 3 mins then as you do it twice :D

  2. My Guess, without a front on photo, is either it's a line (telephone) loss measuring oscillator, or an audio oscillator used for a variety of tasks including measuring power output of a transmitter.

     

    Diana

     

     

    Can anyone provide me with more information about this item?

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  3. Sorry, totally disagree.

     

    To find a high resistance series connection the circuit should be energised and the place where the voltages changes i.e where the volts drop occurs, is the place where the high resistance joint occurs. Not forgetting that the meter resistance will have an affect, particularly on low current circuits.

     

    One cannot find a high resistance connection using an ammeter, excepting to determine that particular circuit is not operating correctly (has a high resistance series connection), unless of course one pokes about and disturbs connections, which is not recommended as there maybe multiple connections at one point, or the fault maybe intermittent such as a dry joint, especially on PCB's. Far better to find the fault and deal with it.

     

     

    The other good reason is an AVO (or some versions) have a mechanical cutout, Digital meters have (often but not always) a special high speed fuse. If a connection error occurs then the possibility exists to damage/destroy the meter or destroy the fuse (which is a pain in the bum to find a replacement for).

     

    The alternative method is to use an ohmmeter or Wheatstone bridge however where there are small high resistance series joint. (and there is always some resistance in a circuit and even meter leads) the determination of the relevant actual amount affecting the circuit in question is often quite difficult, especially when high currents are involved.

     

    Meters should ALWAYS be stored switched to the highest possibly AC voltage, that way when you go to use them if you forget to change ranges there is less likelihood they will be damaged.

     

    Of course if the circuit fuse pops perpetually then use and ohmmeter to go through the circuit to find the shunt low resistance or short circuit

     

    Diana

     

     

     

     

     

    just a mention that if you dont trust v reading remember that the meter can be placed in series and ma or amps can be monitored. this can help ferret out high resistance connections.suggest jumpering out straight from batt to coil to testrunning of motor. then as mentioned hunt for conn prob.remember there is also a conn strip next to breaker box in cab.take note that at least one set 9is internally jumpered ign if memory servs
  4. Cant agree on that, less strain on battery and starter motor as the engine turns to pump fuel.

     

    With a mechanical pump your pumping until the carburetor is filled with fuel. With an electric pump the fuel is there within a few seconds.

     

    A definite must do like fitting a electronic ignition.

     

    Diana

     

     

    no if standard fuel pump ok no need to fit electric-one definitly not on must do list!
  5. We have one fitted to ours as well.

     

    So much better than taking off access plates, crawling underneath and getting dirty!

     

    A definite one for the must do list.....

     

    Diana

     

     

    I have a 12 volt electric fuel pump on my Ferret.....I pump gas pedal about 4-5 times and starts right off......
  6. I totally agree with Clive, any moving coil voltmeter, even cheapie ones, are far superior to a digital meter for doing electrical testing on classic/historic vehicles.

     

    I also agree with Clive regarding the ballast resistor, a quickie test is to short them (yes there are two resistors) out with a jumper lead (lead with crocodile clips on each end) and see if the engine runs, alternatively a fast check with a testmeter set to ohms (an ohmeter) and see if the figure compares with the diagram spec. In the case of low value resistors here a digital meter is useful as long as one is aware that the figures can be misleading i.e the meter probes need to make good contact with the component being tested.

     

    If you've tested all the other components then there's not much left to test. The capacitor across the points can fail and sometimes its diagnosis is confusing. Lastly those nasty bullet connectors used on the Ferret and other vehicles can develop a poor connection, again through corrosion, clean them up and apply silicon grease which is relativity safe for rubber. Check that there is 24 volts or thereabouts on the positive feed to the coil ballast resistors.

     

    Diana

     

     

    Ray the Avo 12 is an analogue (moving coil) multimeter especially appropriate for automotive use with ranges that include 18 & 36 volts, so ideal for 12 & 24 volt systems. Many EMERs quote readings to be expected on an Avo 12 or Avo 7.

     

    It has low ohms per volt meaning that there is a small current drawn as it measures the voltage. Unlike digital meters that draw virtually no current that make them ideal in electronic circuitry. The problem is that digital meters whether you are measuring volts or ohms can often throw up meaningless readings when there is nothing to measure or the voltages may be at a very tiny current but are not meaningful sources of power that are significant in an automotive application.

     

    If you know there is a voltage there & you want a reading to several decimal places then digital is fine. But if you are prodding around trying to see if the is a voltage there or not & not sure of what magnitude it might be, I find a digital meter is quite a mischievous device to rely on.

     

    Often I do not need a very accurate reading as such but need to see a trend with a needle moving up or down. A flashing digital display is tiresome. I know better meters have a bar graph as well but this lacks the smooth continuity of a moving needle.

     

    I do have a high spec Fluke digital built to a military spec but it displays the short comings above. I like my Avo 12 best, in fact so much so I have two. One has a REME Wksp number on it, if its good enough for them it should be good enough for me :)

  7. Simple Damp = corrosion, often caused by either atmospheric conditions or where the person assembling it in those days handled the resistance wire/component.

     

    Diana

     

     

    Can anyone say why this resistor goes bad from just sitting besides old age?

    Would it have been better if a trickle battery charger is left on?

  8. There is a resistor that gets shorted out when starting, immediately the engine starts the short circuit is removed. The resistor is in series with the 24v feed to the ignition coil.

     

    Highly likely the resistor has gone open circuit. Easy test, switch on the ignition and check for 24 volts (or thereabouts) at coil (voltage will depend upon whether points are closed or not).

     

    Diana

     

    My 54 MkI Ferret is sitting on blocks in my garage. I start it up every month or so and have never had an issue.

    Two days ago I charged up the batteries and attempted to start it.

    After several short attempts it fired up but when I released the starter switch the engine died immediately. It did this every time. It would start up and even rev up quite nicely as long as I kept the starter switch on.

    I thought there must be something electrical and I was thinking I would install the nos ignition assembly sooner than later.

    I asked a mechanic that I have had work on it before and his thoughts were that the starter motor or more specifically the the gear on the starter that engages the flywheel is not retracting and is in fact remaining engaged with the flywheel. The result being the engine dies immediately. He suggested that I give the starter a whack or two and maybe the gear will disengage.

    So what are your thoughts.....should I give it a whack and try again or is there another approach?

     

    Thanks

     

    Alan

  9. Overhaul the carburettor, changing all the diaphragms, ensure the jets are clean and any filters. Ensure there are no airleaks at the carburettor base or inlet manifold where all nuts should be tight, Check the plugs for gap and fouling, check the points gaps, if you can afford it fit electronic ignition.

     

    Finally if you feel it necessary change the distributor cap and rotor arm. Though I suspect its a carburettor problem, one of the checks should be the cold start mechanism is correctly set and the altitude adjustment works as it can jam in the wrong position.

     

    Diana

     

    When starting from cold (please note I am in Queensland Australia so never that cold) using first stage of choke. Ferret starts on first attempt and then quickly dies. Trying to start it after that is very difficult, best to leave it and come back in a few minutes. It seems to me that there is a combustible mixture left from previous drive which gives initial start and then there is not sufficient combustible mixture to keep it running.

    I have developed a technique of spraying engine start (called start ya bastard) into the air intake air intake with accelerator pressed down and choke closed, I then select second stage of choke and Ferret fires up nicely, I then push the choke back in stages and have Ferret running at a tick over around 800 and I let it warm up for a few minutes. All good so far but when I select a gear and put the engine under load it dies and sometimes stalls. I have tried increasing revs using hand throttle but still seems to be problem. I have to be careful as I am reversing down a shallow ramp from garage into street. Only idea which seems to work is leave the choke out one stage.

    If the engine stops and I try to restart it straight away it will not start. If I leave it a few minutes no problem, no choke just starts.

    It seems to me

    1. When cold the limited combustible material will not keep it running.

    2. When won’t start after running (short or long time) (hot or warm) it is probably flooded.

    Any ideas or thoughts would be much appreciated.

    · I think I should not have to use my starting technique.

    · Stopping the stalling when putting under load.

    · Not restarting after stalling or once it has been run.

    Re batteries what voltage should I get from voltmeter if batteries good, I would have thought over 24 volts but I am only getting just under 23.50 volts even after charging? I use the socket above the inter vehicle socket to plug voltmeter in.

    Thanks in anticipation

  10. As good as we are side bins are out of our league!

     

    However find a good sheet metal worker, a pattern and I'm sure you can get them made.

     

    D&J

     

    PS We had rear mudguards made and galvanised

     

     

    Hussar I sent you a PM the other day..I thought forum members here Diana and Jackie were making them in their shop...I believe I read a post they made last year....
  11. At least one, which recently appeared on ebay which suggests not a satisfied customer.

     

     

    What is infuriating is our money wasted on this junk - very interesting comments placed after the article.

     

    Withams got the whole fleet, there are loads of them in the yard.. I wonder how many have been sold on?
  12. Obviously a weapon the MOD need to consider as part of its cost saving strategy, especially if AlQuida consider it to be offensive to use it against them!

     

    A weapon of the future then?

     

    D&J

     

     

     

    Breaking news tonight on local TV:

     

    In Canvey Island a school has just decreed that triangular shaped flapjacks are dangerous and have banned them - the school canteen which makes them has to cut the slabs into squares from now on. This as a result of a pupil being sent home with a sore eye - after being hit by one during a food fight.

     

    Now how about banning the throwing of *&^%$$£ food instead? Alternatively, how can you de-activate a flapjack?

     

    The world has gone mad - it's official banana-gif.19222

  13. Having repainted our rear Ferret mudguards and given them an anti slip coating using grain sized polystyrene beads,(off ebay) we were wondering if the engine hatches had an anti slip surface too?

     

    The surface of the mudguards is excellent and very resistant to damage, scratching etc - use synthetic paint (which has just started to go tacky) and a salt shaker to shake the beads over the surface, then spray again on top several times allowing drying to tacky before each coat.

     

    Mask as appropriate before spraying and shaking!icon7.png

     

    D&J

  14. FV50837 & or FV50838

     

    All details on the parts manual

     

    D&J

     

     

    Hello

    I've had no luck so far, even posted over on ferret heaven without a single response. What I'm looking for are the NSN for the ferret's steering linkage pins. These pins are used to connect the inner steering levers to the steering forks inside the hull. Mine are missing and I need to order a set of them. Thanks.

     

    Regards,

    Matt

  15. Thanks Andy,

     

    I thought you might reply! Another bodge to sort out, I guessed it was all wrong and its also been rubbing against the fuel tank, which is why it needs a P clip under the manifold.

     

    Grateful for confirmation of the routing.

     

    Now the hard bit - doing it properly

     

    D&J

     

     

     

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]73370[/ATTACH]

     

    This is a closest I can get to the mounting on the manifold

  16. Champ Spares?

     

    D&J

     

     

    Hi Folks,

    Does anyone have a stock of, or know of a source for brushes for a generator No2 Mk2 as fitted to my champ. I thought I had nothing more to do than use the brushes from my spare but seized generator, also a No2 Mk2, however they are a completely different brush and brush holder. The brushes I need are as per the photo.

    Thanks in anticipation

    John

  17. Dear All,

     

    Thanks for all the useful advice!

     

    There are two types of adjusting device for the engine fan belt. The latter which I have just received today is more in line with later practice of tensioning the belt.

     

    The lesson learnt is do not bend the generator fixing clamp when removing or installing a generator. (and No I didn't but some cowboy did)

     

    Picture of both adjuster to follow

     

    D&J

     

     

    Just heating the lugs may allow them to expand enough to let the pin be driven out gently.

    Easy as you go...... :undecided:

     

    For assembly, you could ream the lugs to make the pin a sliding fit and then cross-drill one lug/pin and use a roll/split pin for retaining in future. Mind you, how many times do you intend removing the pin from now on.... :D

     

    Alec.

  18. Thanks Chris,

     

    No split pins visible, but I'll wire brush the lugs and make sure there are no pins through the pin. Then attack as suggested unless there are any further suggestions?

     

    By the way did you change it for the same reason? fractured metal clamp ?

     

    D&J

     

     

    Looks the same as a champ one where there sould be split pins either end to hold the pin in as it should be free in the lugs Mine was a ******* to get out lot of heat & big hammer didnt break the lugs but they got bent soon straightened
  19. Griff,

     

    Whilst it is possible to support one lug whilst tapping the pin the other will not be or at least it will potentially move until stopped by the strap as there is a clearance between the strap and lugs longitudally.

     

    Is the pin an interference fit in one or both lugs?

     

    BTW if anyone wants a really good battle try removing the generator clamp bracket with the engine in situ on a Ferret -

     

    Top bolts shouldered 5/8" AF Socket (Top Right cannot be totally removed until all other bolts are removed)

    Bottom bolt shouldered 5/8" AF Socket

    Centre Bottom 1/2" AF not shouldered

    Bottom right Behind the oil tank - 5/8" AF use a clawfoot socket

    All bolts with spring washers fitted and TIGHT

     

    D&J

     

     

     

    heat and correct size punch heavy riveting block at end of strap to provide reaction force. or if room the G clamp and socket method.
  20. Hi All,

     

    Some clever clogs when replacing the Generator on our Ferret bent and fractured the holding/belt tensioning strap of the Generator in order to replace it.

     

    The first picture shows the fracture and the second shows the pin that needs to be removed to renew the strap. The problem is how to remove the pin which is held in two aluminium lugs which are between the generator strap.

     

    The wrong method will cause the lugs to break - anyone know how to get the pin out using the correct method?

     

     

    Thanks D&J

     

    20130221_163830.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    20130221_163839.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

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