Diana and Jackie

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-water-repellent-seal-clear-5ltr/57474 Diana

Hair dryer? heat applied very carefully (as its an aluminium alloy) and cheap spray oil usually frees things off in time too. Diana

Get a very small screwdriver that will fill the hole as much as possible, sharpen it so the blade is sharp, place in mixture screw hole, with a carb body held firmly tap and rotate the screwdriver and tap (not hit violently), with luck the screwdriver will bite into the brass and the taps will loosen the screw whilst the screwdriver is being turned. Diana

Is it actually stick in there? or is it difficult to turn whilst broken off, sometimes you can turn it by coaxing with a small screw driver. The other option is warm water, heat soak in penetrating fluid and try again, or a small hole down the middle of the mixture screws and use a screw extractor. Diana

Recently bought a GPMG replica from them - it didn't fit the Spartan mount, so they came all the way from Sussex - a round trip of 6 hours plus to measure the mount, took the original back and sent me one that fitted. I would highly recommend them. Diana

If you have eliminated everything else try bleeding at the injectors. Diana

works out about £20 a mile ! PLUS fuel of course :-) Diana

For all those on a quest for conduit try :- http://www.rapidonline.com/ Diana

I regularly get Police Officers ask me are my armoured military vehicles road legal as they pass by the number plate! Anything outside of a robbery is not on their agenda and even a robbery or theft these days is something they don't care too much about, so when it comes to firearms activated or otherwise and the law they are in a world of their own. Diana

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Go onto ebay - the pads there are dirt cheap or use the ones you found - they aren't special as Chris implies. The brake pads are another animal, made to an MOD spec as are the calipers. Probably easier to get new friction material bonded to them in the US. Similar for the handbrake bands. Diana

Sean is correct in that a tractor may or may not be an agricultural machine (re: The Regs) . You will have to complete a 112G which is basically an exemption from testing. My local postoffice looked at it and threw it in the bin - so what that was all about goodness knows. On that I declared The Ferret a tractor, whichever way you go about it those vehicles cannot be tested ORDINARILY because of the fixed 4 wheel drive. There maybe other reasons. When I made some enquirers about a 4 wheel brake tester some time ago there wasn't one in South Wales I did have an exchange with the DVLA about the 112G because when you go to tax the vehicle (Ferret or otherwise) online you may not be able to because of deceleration of exemption, and there was no way last year to do that online, stupid as it seems. Even the DVLA didnt know why that could not be done. Diana

The DVLA may have different ideas about what is what, and yes I do know that a Shielder is not a Spartan.

Ferret and a Spartan The Ferret is classed as a tractor - but that doesn't mean it is an agricultural vehicle, personally speaking the rules are not fit for purpose as some true agricultural vehicles can go these days at up to 60MPH, things have moved on - which is a lot faster than some car drivers do. Diana

It used to also say invalid carriages too and L drivers - I haven't seen one for years plenty of videos on YouTube showing tracked vehicles on Motorways though. https://www.gov.uk/motorways-253-to-273/general-253-to-254 So agricultural vehicle - an armoured vehicle is not an agricultural vehicle though.

If The weight limit is 7.5 tonnes then that is exactly what it is. It matters not whether the vehicle is a tractor, lorry, car, van, artic, armoured vehicle. If you believe that your vehicle is possibly exempt from a limit then the only safe was is to contact the police/local council and get it in writing - something they would be loathe to do in my opinion. Likewise the speed limit for a tracked vehicle with rubber pads is 20MPH whereas for a tracked vehicle with no pads, just steel is 10MPH - not something I was told when I was taught to drive a tracked vehicle. The advice I received if I wish to take my tracked vehicle onto the nearby motorway is confer with the local Police, since it is probably safer to use the motorway than to go on the local side roads. Diana

If you go across any structure with a weight limit and your vehicle exceeds that limit and you damage a bridge for example you are almost certain to invalidate your insurance and have a bill which might make you bankrupt, for damage to the structure and also consequential loss from anyone inconvenienced by the damage. Besides the actual weight has to be declared. Diana

Nitromors is now difficult to get hold of, not impossible but difficult. The safe alternative is next to useless on many occasions. Neither will work on the epoxy based finish on many fairly recent vehicles, parts and equipment. Diana

Buying an expensive low vibration needle scaler is a great idea if one has the money, then there's a compressor and the piping, an oiler etc, some of us cant justify the cost, but you should get anti-vibration gloves and definitely ear protectors. Just started using a 2 pack primer from TA paints is absolutely BRILLIANT - even sticks to an aluminium pot on the spray gun and I cant get it off! great for ali and steel, 2nd coat with oxide then a topcoat. It's not the same as 2 part topcoat auto paint is nothing like as dangerous and the same as the military originally used on their equipment. Diana

The tool is described in the Diesel version repair manual. I think that someone has already suggested that you get these manuals. Its likely you will have to construct one from the drawing shown. There are also 3 pins that screw into the bolt holes holding the final drive, again locally made, that help guide the final drive from its fixing and prevent damage to the handbrake band. Also contained within that manual is the conversion process to convert a left hand drive to a right hand final drive. All the manuals can be had from Greenmachine surplus. There is also conflict between the Petrol repair manual and the Diesel repair manual over the steering tiller adjustment. The problem with the steering tillers is of removing air trapped in the system which appears to be trapped in the two master cylinders, this again has been highlighted in threads here. I found that by bleeding as best you can at the bango feed to the caliper in the floor, and then at the union passing through the front bulkhead and then tying back the tiller under pressure (one at a time) for a day or two much of the air is expelled or dissipated. Others have tried and had success with various other methods. Diana

Stainless, bronze, brass and copper all react with aluminium. The safest bet is plastic/nylon (yes you can get plastic nuts and bolts but their strength is about zero) or cadmium coated, Zinc and yellow, or zinc chromate or finally BZP. Stainless reacts with BZP, and by the way Stainless nuts and bolts are weak compared to high tensile grade 8.8 nuts and bolts. Under no circumstance use stainless in load bearing structures unless it is specifically a special type of stainless. Nylons washers under the glacis plate bolts help keep the water out. And if you Tig weld Armour then it requires special rods and a very high amperage welder in many situations. Diana

As with other military vehicles, the CUCV's used a 24-volt electrical system. It was actually a hybrid 12/24-volt system that used 24-volts under the hood, complete with dual 100 amp alternators, the mandatory NATO slave receptacle for jump starting any NATO vehicle, and hookups for military radios.[6] The rest of the truck was 12-volt. Explains why 1 battery maybe dead as opposed to two. Diana

Did you charge the batteries? Depending on where you got them, the quality and how they were kept they may not be charged. If you replaced like for like then and the original were fitted correctly then even if new they may still be discharged. Diana

Presuming that both batteries are connected in series then it would appear you have a battery problem. You need to specify if it starts or not. Even then because a vehicle starts does not mean that the batteries or charging system are performing as they should, as some time after it may either not turn over or turns over sluggishly. And batteries at the end of their life do "drain" as you put it or simply do not hold their charge owing to sulphation of the plates (lead acid types), caused by age and failure to keep a battery charged. A common problem in old vehicles. Some gel batteries can be even worse, having a good terminal no load voltage, but zero or near zero when a load is applied. Diana

&af_placement_id=1&dv=981e1da7b016f952ef100817e6ac8119"]{floor jack: lifting final drives, they balance pretty well on their drain plugs.} There is a tool for doing this that screws into the bolt hole above the final drive (plugged by a bolt) Diana