Diana and Jackie

New |Old Stock Bedford Hazard Switch, £10 plus carriage.

CVRT Steering Cylinder Bracket in good condition, no fractures or weld repairs. Tapped UNF not weird metric thread.

£25 plus postage.

Start at equal turns then tweak each screw until the engine runs smoothly. The screws will interact with each other.

Diana

Thanks Richard! I did adjust them to manual specs and they are equal turns out. Im not sure what else to adjust there. Is the intake manifold split all the way down to the head so that the 2 sections of the carb dont work together at all? Its just such a stark difference from from front cylinders to back!

Crossfire; Yes

Military Muckabouts; No

Absolutely

Diana

Obtain a copy of the CVRT electrics from GreenMachine Surplus.

Poking about without a wiring diagram makes no sense. Some versions of The J60 have obsolete and expensive electronic ignition, putting the wrong voltage in the wrong place just causes more problems than it's worth. Besides the starter, if for the J60 in its original form is 24V.

Diana

I thought 24v goes into the junction box, the ballast resistor brings the voltage down to 12v for the coil. Thought i was bypassing the ballast resistor as i cannot tell which terminal takes the 24v feed and not wanting to fry any componants.

Regards Andrew

Yes you can buy the cord online at ebay, the trick is to make a clean cut at both ends, a Jig can be had to do this. Place something under the joint (grease proof paper) or it will stick to the bevel box when you super glue it.

You also need to get the correct cord to resist oil.

No probs

Diana

Hi Diana,

 

is it possible to get the o ring on without dismantling everything? They seem to do a good selection at Simply Bearings online....or I may try Pirtek up the road from me.

 

Thanks,

 

Mick

oh..how rude...thanks for replying

Yes you can superglue it! But fit a new one, it doesn't do much except stop dirt and muck going into the bevel box vtia he actual seal consists of originally two cork square section rings inside the bevel box which you cannot see

Diana

I am working my way up from the ground before starting cosmetic refresh on the ferret.

 

whilst looking at the wheel stations, I noticed a large O ring appears to have snapped on the outer bevel box, and there is not one at all on the left front ( both rears are intact).

i think this is item 38 in v622, at the end of paragraph 140?

"outside the flange of the locking ring a o-section ring (38) sealing the inner tracta housing is fitted."

this is a big ring, maybe 5 or 6 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch in cross-section.

 

can I just take it off, clean it up and superglue the ends together in situ before easing back into place, with the glued section uppermost?

I could also get some more rubber of the same cross-section and make one for the left wheel?

 

or can new ones be sourced and fitted without taking the drums etc off?

 

thanks,

 

mick[ATTACH=CONFIG]115198[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]115199[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]115200[/ATTACH]

Most people, like me, do not get too worried about recovering a broken down Ferret, they simply either don' t bother or pay a bit extra with the insurance for recovery, this means they can go wherever and not worry about recovering it themselves since a Ferret can fit usually on the back of a recovery vehicle. You may for instance have a problem on a Motorway (which I use with my Ferret) recovering a Ferret with a tractor.

Heavier vehicles are a very different matter.

Diana

Hello, Hoping that some one might to able to help with this.

 

For piece of mind (in the event of a localish breakdown), I would like to fabricate an A-frame towing drawbar for the ferret, similar to the one's used by jeeps.

 

It has been mentioned before that towing may damage the gearbox or transfer box. If the transfer box is in neutral, would that result in the rotating wheels, (whilst been towed) not turning the gearbox at all?

 

If so, then its only the bearings/gears in the TB which are at risk. Looking at the manuals the TB does not appear to have an input shaft driven oil pump so I assume everything in the TB is lubed by splash, or am I wrong?

 

If everything is in neutral is the fluid flywheel safe being towed?

 

Would only be towed by a farm tractor so not fast.

 

Thanks

 

Jim

Trojan weighs 62.5 tonnes.

I must remember to give the soldier who told me at Bovington a sharp word when I next meet him if ever..

This is all very well and good but a lot of people don't want or don't like Facebook, which means they cannot see the photos. (and for very good reasons they may not wish to have a Facebook account.

It would be much preferable if interesting photos were posted on here.

Diana

Trojan - 68 tons and 6 speed fully automatic gearbox - diesel of course! Steering by levers.

Finally - a DINGO

I matched it to an E Type.

Diana

Are the calipers for the series 2 or 3 Jaguar?

 

thanks,

Jack it up on one side, there should be some backlash in each wheel - a very small amount not a complete wheel turn. This is also a good way to see how well the brakes are adjusted as it possible to maladjust the brakes so that there is no brake action on one wheel. I know as this was how mine was when I bought it - a death trap!

Diana

Blimy :shocked:, I had already figured it had to be very heavy and would have to be suspended and kind-of slid into place.

 

I ask because I assume that when people with such vehicles experience a lack of drive but no wobble etc, then in order to eliminate either the bevel box or drive shafts one would have to disconnect each to ascertain where the problem was. Clearly, first one would be the prop shafts, but then,(if the dowels are secure) that would leave only two other probables?

 

I have read acticles of broken tracta joints on Stollies and assume that these are similar, albeit on a larger scale to a ferrets?

 

Thanks to everyone from all over the world for taking time out to put finger to key :).

 

Cheers

 

Jim

The words Highly dangerous come to mind - treat with respect.

Diana

When I replaced one on the Saracen, we used 3 people and a fork lift. It was a pain in the arse.

 

Cheers,

Terry

if you intend to separate the wheel station from the bevel box, the wheel station is >>>VERY VERY heavy!!!<<<< I would recommend using an engine crane to support it whilst you do split the wheel station and bevel box using a sling around the outer hub. As one reader says the set screws holding the two together are problematic. The wheel station is also held in place by the fixing at the top of its suspension arm.

Diana

Hi, I'm keen to understand how these wheel stations work and read that they are removeable as a unit from their respective bevel box. I assume that a shaft with spines locates into its bevel box, is this shaft called the 'inner tracta shaft'?

 

I figure that it is this shaft which slides out when the wheel station is withdrawn? If this is the case, is it an awkward job to line this shaft up when re-fitting wheel station to bevel box?

 

Thanks

 

Jim

Its actually a Hoover washing machine on tracks (Hoover made washers in Merthyr Tydfil and they went bust), so its officially a HOOVER and not an AJAX

You could be right! If the Russians see that they will fall about in fits of laughter as it looks like something from Monty Python and with a name AJAX its obviously meant to do just that, as it looks hilarious.

OK, so now we know it can do neutral turns - wonderful.

 

But does anyone else think that "Merthyr Tydfil, the New Home of Fighting Vehicles for the British Army" sounds like something from Monty Python? :-)

 

Andy

They used to make washing machines in Merthyr so it's aptly named as Ajax is also the name of a power cleanser.

[video=youtube_share;Jev_2DPVrJ8]

There should be a rubber ring on the inside of the cap if there isn't you should be in a noah's ark of petrol? Sounds like the fuel outlet of the tank/rubber bag maybe blocked and or an air leak?

Diana

I've cleaned up the fuel pump, but it's not pulling any fuel up. It's running doing a fast tick but the fuel filter bowl is still dry. Obviously an air leak there somewhere as it's not pulling any vacuum.

 

Normally it ticks fast for a few seconds and then goes to the slow tick.

 

The bayonet cap on the bottom of the pump doesn't look like a really good way of getting an air tight seal!

 

I've put more fuel in, before you ask!

There are 4 filters, one filter fitted between the pump and petrol tank, one in the rear of the petrol pump both you've identified and 2 around the jets in the carb.

The pump filter is a common item on eBay.

Sounds like everything needs stripping and cleaning. There should be no need to prime anything, listen to the tick of the pump, once it slows the carburetor is full. It may take a while to slow if you drain the system as it has to refill and self prime.

On the rear inside of the pump is a magnet, which will probably need cleaning too.

You were dead lucky to get home. The rubbish in the system will have accumulated in years. If after cleaning the fuel system it still shows symptoms then pull the limiter fuse.

Diana

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

I've just been starting my diagnosis...

 

The plugs look a little hot having a slight whiteness on the electrode.

 

I just took out the fuel filter and it was full of water with a tide mark of rust about half way up!

 

The fuel pump is missing it's filter altogether!

 

I'm thinking it's running lean and the carb jets are getting clogged with all the rusty crap in the fuel filter.

 

It's been standing for about 6 months and it fired up fine yesterday. The problem developed after about 30 mins actual driving and then got worse and worse.

 

 

 

Just out of interest, is there a trick to priming the fuel system? I see there is an air bleed on the filter but the manual says it's not used...

 

 

Cheers!

Try remove the fuse on the speed limiter, if a Belgian engine it will have a fuse holder adjacent to the coil, if British the fuse holder is incorporated into one of the spare cable outlets on the coil housing.

Diana

Just took the Scorp out for a test run after the clutch rebuild.

 

There was a hesitation in the engine with misfire at around 1000 to 1500 rpm where it loses power and almost stops.

 

As this coincides with the clutch engagement, it made pulling away rather tricky.

 

Once you get through 1500 rpm, it ran fine. Idle was fine too. Very similar to what it was always like when running from cold, but now when hot.

 

This got progressively worse such that I had to keep the engine above 2000 rpm all the time to get back home! Luckily it was only around the corner and I made it back without having to stop anywhere...

 

Once I got home, the engine stopped as soon as I lifted off the gas to let it idle and wouldn't restart.

 

 

 

So any ideas where to start looking?

 

I'm going to check fuel filter and plugs first, then distributor, then carbs. (I have a load of spare carbs and ignition parts to swap out with).

 

Cheers,

The relay box is on the left hand side of the Drivers Instrument Panel, it should have a reset button and 5 amp fuse on its front.

The 2 wires terminate in a 5 way flying plug A and B of the plug, also connected to the plug is a buzzer or alarm, pins C and D, The power for the box comes direct off the vehicle batteries (personally I would use a fused lead), the positive and negative terminate in a 2 pin flying socket ON top of the relay box. The feed to the annunciation that flashes the light on the remote indicator unit comes from the bottom of the relay box via a 2 pin flying plug pin A.

There are 4 air bleed screws, 2 on the radiator, one on the pipe across the top of the engine and one at the rear of the heat exchanger or oil cooler. Let as much air out as you can, and then run the engine, more air will bleed off as the coolant expands, be careful not to overheat the engine with the Air inlet covers raised, and do not run the engine at all with the radiator up, unless absolutely imperative.

Diana

Just putting my Scorp back together after sorting the gearbox oil seal.

 

Does anyone know the correct position of the gearbox dipstick tube to the stub on the gearbox? They are joined with a length of hose and the position of the tubes in the hose sets the dipstick level, so should the tubes touch inside the joint hose or should there be a gap?

 

Also does anyone know where the 2 wires from the engine fire detection junction box go. They pass through the bulkhead and go via a junction to a relay box. I'm not 100% sure I have one of those?

 

I have the cable from the engine box that ends in 2 bullet connectors.

 

 

Lastly, any tricks to bleeding the air out of the cooling system. I found the 5 bleed valves (2 on the rad, 1 in the middle of the pipe running over the engine, 1 in the heater feed and 1 on the end of the engine, on the end of a braided hose.)

 

The pipe on the cold side (exit) of the rad seems to have a bit of air in, as you can hear the water sloshing about when you squash it.

 

 

Cheers!

After doing some reading my suggestions are, change oil filter and gearbox oil. Obtain a copy of the CVRT PRECIS from GreenMachine Surplus, adjust the controller as per page 31, if the fault persists check the oil pressures as in the precis.

2 and 5 are the same gear effectively as they both use the same brake band. So there should be no difference in fwd/rev as the gearbox is "going in reverse" for the vehicle to go backwards clearly there has to be something different going on that is not apparent.

Diana

We have a box that wouldn't select 2nd or 5th correctly in fwd, I never thought to try it in reverse. Fortunately we had a spare gearbox so fitted that, although it would be nice to know what the issue is with the other one so we could perhaps look to fix it. It had been suggested that the "bread basket" gasket behind the cover plate could be the fault on ours. I have made one of these gaskets by hand before, fiddly but possible.

 

What were the suggestions for the fault with your box?

 

Vince

ANPR already exists for HGV vehicles (over 3.5 tonnes) on some motorways UK where trucks are monitored for speed and drivers hours.

Diana

From Brussels / Belgium it will unfold for HGV's - like the petals of a flower , to the other EEC countries (Stage 1) , Stage 2 will be to all cars , (probably limited to manufacturer factory fitted) rather than retro-fit ,,

Lumenition speed limiters and ignition modules are a phenomenal price. A possible alternative to the Jolley unit is advertised on ebay for Lucas distributors which retain the speed limiter of the original B series engine as does the Jolley Unit. The Jolley ignition module is easy to fit albeit priced well beyond what it should be.

There seems to be no purpose to reinventing the wheel by attempting to modify a J60 Lumenition module.

Diana

Hi David,

Here is a Lumenition rev limiter ; http://www.lumenition.com/images/pdfs/ERL-V-instructions.pdf This is not visually like the one fitted on CVR(T) engines, but worth enquiring with Autocar (who supply Lumenition) to see if it is compatible with the ones the MoD were supplied.

 

Richard