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Diana and Jackie

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Everything posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. No problem, thought it may have been a simple microswitch problem or switch setting. Diana
  2. There should be continuity between the copper armature segments, with everything disconnect, ie the brushes lifted, there should not be continuity between the armature shaft and copper segments. follow the field windings and see if there's continuity of the field coils, Common failures are sticking brushes i.e not making contact with the armature and loss of residual magnetism. A mechanic who knows what they are doing should be a bit more precise than "it's U/S" Diana
  3. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/615369/2017-00418.pdf See chapters 4 and 5, suggest checking the operation of the microswitches and wiring to the microprocessor and controller. Diana
  4. Thanks to Richard I've just replaced the two outer seals on my CVRT Gearbox, there is also a slotted nut and behind that a washer, which has two seals, a rubber O ring and a flat rubber washer, both can also be a source of a leak as well as a loose slotted nut. Theses seals are also set in a removable housing held by machine screws, again the face of the housing can also be a source of a leak, I uses RTV silicon to seal the housing, If you replace the seals use Viton seals, also worth doing the two seals in related to the clutch, one inside the clutch and the other on the gearbox. Diana
  5. I recently wanted to renew a CVRT gearbox lubrication hose that was unavailable. After contacting Hoseman (Paul) on this forum he found a suitable replacement fitting and made up the new hose for me at a very reasonable cost. I know he has now bought all the spare 1 1/8 UNF hose ends in the UK, so if you want a CVRT hose remaking or renewed or a hose for any other vehcile this is the person you need to contact. Diana
  6. A picture of the output coupling and castle lock ring. Subsequently the castle lock ring was found to be loose, underneath the washer was an O ring and a rubber washer, who's purpose is to stop oil leaking out of the box. If the castle lock ring is loose then oil is going to leak past the washer.. I managed to remove the output coupling, the oil seal had gone hard, another cause of a leak.
  7. Here is a scan of the output shaft(s). The seals are items 42 and 32, there are also associated O rings items 44 and 45 . I spoke to Trelleborg some time ago and they confirmed that whilst The British Army use PTFE seals for our applications it's quite satisfactory to use standard seals.
  8. Hi Richard, I think I am getting my inner and outer seals confused. The smaller seal I believe can be removed with a Laser Tools part 6179 castle lock ring tool (for a Kawasaki motorcycle).. The removal of castle lock ring which has already been butchered on my gearbox, allows access to deal with the smaller seal, it's the larger seal that presents the problem. At least knowing the box has to be vertical is a start 🙂 Tomorrow I will post a scan of relevant part of the box so that you may be able to enlighten us further ! Thanks again for your invaluable input ..... Diana
  9. Has anyone replaced the output shaft oil seals of a CVRT Gearbox? If so how did they do it? All the output seals on my CVRT Gearbox are leaking, I have the seals, and I can probably do the outer seal fairly easily - but the inner seal maybe more difficult. Any tips or tricks would be helpful? Diana
  10. Just had some CVRT main brake pads relined £12.50 each, a bargain considering a set of pads is over £120. http://www.brakereline.co.uk/ Diana
  11. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/trailer-registration?utm_source=Main+list+-+all+subscribers&utm_campaign=a6bba9ab29-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_03_15_02_22&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_1857b9694b-a6bba9ab29-28833511 https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/780825/trailer-registration-numbers-and-number-plates-inf291.pdf?utm_source=Main+list+-+all+subscribers&utm_campaign=a6bba9ab29-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_03_15_02_22&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_1857b9694b-a6bba9ab29-28833511 Diana
  12. Not sure if it's been published here before? I've not seen it. (and it has but is somewhat obscure) Diana https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/615369/2017-00418.pdf
  13. There's a better way than that. Get yourself a small digital spirit level, measure the angle of the fan drive pulley, adjust the gearbox to have the same angle. The Fan drive belt will now not run to either end of the fan drive as both drives should be parallel, Job done. Diana
  14. So I presume your little ditty wasn't meant for me then? DIANA
  15. Buy yourself a petrol tanker as they drink petrol 🙂
  16. I've sent you a private message. Diana
  17. If there is less than 1 inch (25.4mm) between the tension ram and its stop then take a link out as Chris says. Diana
  18. Not often seen. CVRT tow bar,A frame, freshly painted in satin Nato Green, all pin threads free. Buyer to collect or can meet at Sarn services M4 (near Bridgend) Located Swansea. £600
  19. As the header says £30 plus postage (via Hermes signed for) For enquiries please send me a private message. Diana
  20. If you had the manual you usually find what the thread size is from the part that you removed. Diana
  21. Etching primer is brilliant, it will even etch into plastic as it marked my microwave. I use it for most things now, I found the spray (CAN) etch isn't that good though. Diana
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