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Phoenixent

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  1. Phoenixent
    Hi Steve, We put a pin on the center unless we need you have a cup without a hole. Then we drill a hole midway between the pin and edge to bleed the air from the part while spinning it. The part comes out nice and parallel with no bell mouth opening. We have made hundreds of spin tools that way in both aluminum and steel depending on how many pieces we run. So far the aluminum tool have produced hundreds of parts but the get soft eventually due to the heat created by spinning. Hope I helped out on this as you and your crew have given me idea also. Steve K.
  2. Phoenixent
    Steve, I make patterns about that size for both brass and steel sheet out of aluminum. The way to keep it from bell mouthing at the end is to drill a 1/4" hole front to back to allow the air to escape while spinning the part. Then it will be parallel and you can get it of the tool. Hope it helps you out as it works for us. Great job on your restorations as I am always learning something from these threads. Steve K.
  3. Phoenixent
    Like the Dennis thread this will be an interesting thread. I really enjoy seeing the fabrication of parts as I do some of that here but in a smaller scale for firearms. Keep up the Great Work and I can't wait for updates.....
  4. Phoenixent
    Thanks everyone for the warm welcome.. Sorry I have not posted anything just been stopping by on my break to read some restoration threads. It's truly an amazing site with so much to learn from it. We have be busy fabing some items for a movie that will start filming shortly in Hungary.
  5. Phoenixent
    Hi Everyone My name is Steve and I am from Long Beach, California. I am a Motion Picture Armorer and I also own a small machine shop were we fabricate special parts to use on blank fire weapons. We also restore Kerosene railway lamps and military hardware. I really enjoy reading about the restoration and how others make the items for their projects. Steve
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