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Zero-Five-Two last won the day on February 25

Zero-Five-Two had the most liked content!

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About Zero-Five-Two

  • Rank
  • Birthday 02/21/1960

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  • Location
    Sittingbourne Kent
  • Interests
    My AEC Militant Mk1
  • Occupation
    Project Engineer for Bus Company

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  1. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    Practice piece was probably a little too thick 1.2 mm with galvanising on top. Actual work piece will be 1 mm, so should turn over easier. Plus, it was only held in the plywood with a couple of G clamps, so was a bit thrown together just for a quick test. As for hammer choice, that's a laughing point round here. I had a set of nasty Chinese ones for years, which did, sort of OK, then a couple of xmas's back, after much mickey taking, our Stuart got me a set of very sexy Snap On ones. There's no question they are top notch tools and I'm not sure I do them justice banging away on rusty bits of Militant. Went round to my local friendly engineering company today and was allowed to fish a chunk of RSJ out of the scrap bin to use as an anvil. Only trouble was when you hit on it, it rang like a church bell. Couple of blocks of wood wedged in each side stopped that racket. Sits nicely on the workmate and a good height for working too So, we're all good. Got the right kit, know how to do it, just got to get the hands to do as they are told and we will create a masterpiece
  2. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    Can't just sit there looking at these things, you've got to give it a go. Early finish at work today so hammers at the ready and a few bits of scrap, have a shot at this wired edging malarkey. First off, you DO NOT need one of these. Advert said it was perfect for rolling wired edges. Does some lovely patterns and crinkles, but rolling a wired edge, no chance! Tried all sorts of roller combinations, but got nothing usable. Had an idea for doing a straight length, use the sheet folder to turn the first edge up at a right angle, hold the rod in with a pair of pliars and tap it over. Didn't come out too bad for a first go. Need to practise the hammering to hit it square on so the hammer head doesn't dig in to the side. So, now to try the corner radius. Following Rampant Rivets advice, I cut 2 bits of 3/4 ply to a ninety degree corner, then shaved a nice tight radius. Clamp the steel in between, allowing an extra 10mm to do the edge. Dress the edge over onto the ply, then holding the wire in with the pliars again, knock the fold right over Finished up looking like this. Not bad for a first effort. Needs to be better though. I think the sheet must have moved a little with the first fold, giving more than 10mm on the curve. I seemed to be trying to turn over far too much metal, leaving the kink you can see. Also I only had a short piece of wire to practice with, and it was difficult to hold it in place. The other thing I noticed, my first efforts were carried out using a piece of ply as an anvil, thinking that it would help protect the outside edge. But this is really too soft, much better when I moved over to the top of the vice. Steel on steel gave a much better finish. More wire should arrive later in the week, so I'll have another bash. Need to acquire a decent size bit of iron to use as an anvil too
  3. Bedford MWD restoration

    Just read through the whole blog, excellent bit of work, and all done "in't shed" with nothing more than average Joes' toolbox. Looking forward to the new engine firing up. There is nothing quite so satisfying as hearing a rebuilt unit fire up for the first time. I second Andy1960, a video of the happy event would be grand.
  4. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    Thanks for the tip, of course I couldn't just read the one page, ended up going through the whole blog. 4 mm rod on order and I'll be off round to Wickes tomorrow for a sheet of ply. Watch this space. Quick question, did you use any localised heat to help with the bending?
  5. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    So much for the big plan Didn't fancy playing in the snow, and the east wind is lethal in the yard. So cancel the idea of removing wheels etc for another weekend Oh for a nice bit of indoor storage with heating etc. Just keep buying the lottery tickets. Was a shade warmer in the home workshop, so plan B, start on the blast skirt that fits under the back of the cab. I can't decide if I been waiting for a convenient time to do it, or whether I've just been putting it off because I'm not sure how to do it. As you can see it needs quite a bit of effort, and it is very delicate in places. First job, drill out the rivets and reduce it to the component parts, so they csan be assessed as to what is saveable and what is beyond redemption. Main bits and a small pile of crumbs that didn't make it this far. Started with the top centre section, which is very delicate. Basically it is a flat sheet, cut to shape and folded at each end. Mounts onto a solid length of angle iron, so that made measuring a lot easier. Usual coating of Bondaprimer, and it looks good. Next up is the 2 end corners, now these are going to be a different story. Both sides are beyond repair and new bits need to be made. Apart from the curve at one end, the most difficult bit is the rolled wired edge you can see on the left of the picture. I've never made one of these before, and I've not found much information on the net about doing it. So that is going to be a whole new learning experience. I'm open to advice and suggestions on how to, thanks.
  6. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    After a couple of weekends of, what you might call, inclement weather. Like a lot of the country, this was the view from our house. Can't say I enjoyed going out for paying work in that lot, nevermind playing with bits of tanker. Fortunately it never lasts too long, it's even warmed up a bit now, so it was good to get back on with a bit of tanker work on Sunday. First job, see if the new Iveco Cargo silencer really does fit. Pleased to report it went on nicely and looks quite the part. It's only a temporary fitting at the moment (notice the too long M10 bolt) there is a drip shield to fit over the top which has yet to be re-manufactured, but at least I know it's going to do the job. Can't wait to hear what it sounds like compared to the Timber Tractor. That has a JCB Fastrak silencer fitted and is a bit raucous to say the least. Next up, the new tool bin door. Not bad at all, and a bit of extra security for the diesel filler. I'm debating whether to put a bit of a side plate on the bin itself, fill that corner in completely. One slight error to deal with, the replacement hinges are "Metric" size, and have moved the door over a couple of millimertres Meaning the padlock hasp no longer lines up, so a bit of cut and stick to do when I've next cot the welder on site. The retaining bar for holding it open locks in very well As usual, for every two steps forward there has to be one back, just to keep a grip on reality. Went to fit the master switch box behind the drivers seat. The 2 legs it stands on are slightly different, and getting them the right way round and in the right place is critical otherwise they will foul the gear levers, or prevent the drivers seat frame from mounting correctly. Whichever way round I seemed put them it just didn't sit right, and obviously I don't want to drill holes in the new floor until I'm confident of it's proper location. What I needed, and didn't have at the time was a picture of it originally. Back home in the comfort of the armchair, the problem is obvious, I've got the legs on back to front. So, send copy of this shot to my phone so I can have another go next week. That said, might not have time for that. Son Stuart is available, so we plan to have the front jacked up to check the drivers side wheel clears the silencer on full lock. And while we are at it, wheels off and evict the spiders and other livestock that are bound to be inhabiting the brake shoes.
  7. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    Finished off the silencer today Flange end welded on Tail pipe amended to a nice 45 degree down angle. Finished off with a quick coat of high temperature black and we are ready to fit. Should keep the noise down a bit. Long time ago I joined a discussion on here about vehicle keys and the fact that Military vehicles have their own series of numbers not normally available to Joe Public. I only have one ignition key for the tanker, and I have a drivers door handle with no key. Do have key numbers though 6/17 for the ignition and 11/17 for the door. General opinion was "you'll be lucky finding those" Well, general opinion wasn't counting on forum member Ian 43 who does keys and locks for a living. Got a PM from him the other day saying he now has the codes and the blanks to produce a set of keys for the tanker. Beer tokens changed hands and a couple of days later small parcel arrived containing 4 keys. Ignition barrel was refurbished ages ago and was confident the spare keys would be good. Not too sure how the door handle would go. With no key before I haven't done anything with it other than remove it from the old door. Turns out it was well seized up, but a bit of patience and a lot of WD40 and she freed up nicely. Bit confusing at first, because when locked, the handle is free to spin and doesn't engage in the door catch. Handle has to be moved to the correct position, then the key can be turned locking the handle onto the actuating bar and the door can be opened. Both keys work very nicely so many thanks Ian. All I need now is to find a matching handle for the passengers door, but as the top half of the cab is still to be fitted, doors and handles are a long way down the line
  8. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    Tool bin door turned out quite well. Frame now riveted on and first coat of primer applied Bit more finishing off, over the next few evenings and it'll be ready to go back on. Good sunny weather this weekend, if a tad chilly and much has been achieved. Three weeks ago I fitted the drivers side battery box, in behind the auxilary gear levers But I got it wrong and it had to come out, again, twice! First time the bolts used were too long, and although the nuts were tightened, the tray was still loose, so out it came to have shorter bolts fitted. Then I realised that the inner side panel needs to be drilled and riveted on, but the battery tray is in the way for that so it has to come out again. Another weeks delay occured as I remembered, just in time, that the indicator lamp on the outside has to go on before the inner panel. Talk about chicken and egg. I've been having a bit of a run of that sort of thing lately. Fitted replacement gaiter on the hand brake lever, then remembered that the securing nut on the bottom lever needed a split pin. This necessitated the whole floor plate lifting the get to the pin hole, and of course the gaiter had to come off to lift the plate! Anyway finally got my act together today. Shiny new indicator fitted on the out side Then inner panel, complete with the little bracket for the jack handle. Cable for the indicator is left rolled up for now, I'm not sure how long it needs to be to reach round to the junction box, which fits on the drivers seat frame. So finally, the battery tray can be fitted in peace, using the right length bolts. But then, I forgot to take a photo of it!! Feeling that I was on a roll, decided to attack the exhaust silencer. Going with the theory that a Ford Cargo one fits, I picked one up from fleebay last week. 15 mm bigger diameter, which is not a problem, but it is 250 mm longer. It would fit my timber tractor quite well, as it mounts along the chassis. But on the tanker, it mounts transversely between the front wheels. A quick trial fit today confirmed my suspicion that it would foul the off side tyre when on full right hand lock. The other issue is the pipe fittings, cargo pipe is through the centre of the silencer, Tanker one is off set to the top So as well as fitting the square flange, it needs moving to one side. The patient is prepared, and the surgeons instruments are ready. Seems wrong to be cutting up a new piece of kit, but needs must etc 250 mm sliced off the inlet end, quickly followed by a couple of hours cutting, grinding, hammering and swearing And we get to this. Flange moved to the top edge, central hole welded up, and ready to be welded back on. Ran out of time today. One minor issue, to get the internal pipes in the right place, the tail pipe stub is upside down, so a bit more cut and slice to come at the other end at the other end
  9. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    Pretty much rained off again this weekend, getting a bit monotonous, now. Still we cracked on with other stuff. Off Side Door from the pump control box Top hinge is broken, and the tin worm has eaten it's way in behind the edge beading, forcing the two apart. On the inside, The budget lock is seized, and the fire extinguisher bracket is broken. Managed to free off the lock, end of the bottom pin needs a repair and obviously a fire extinguisher and bracket will need to be picked up at some point. Started by removing everything, including the beading. The whole thing is very heavy weight, main panel is 2mm thick sheet, no tin plate here. Good thing about that is, even real heavy duty rust is still only on the surface. The cut out in the bottom right corner allows access the diesel tank filler. Can't say I like that idea, so a small modification is planned. Fill in that corner, so you can't get to the diesel tank cap without opening the door. Won't stop the determined fuel thief, I know. Round here the pick axe seems to be the weapon of choice, just bang a hole in the side of the tank, catch some and spill the rest. My main concern is some smart alec at a show or somewhere who thinks it's good to chuck something in the tank, resulting in disaster for me on the way home. Worked out alright too, cut the frame corner and turn it round, new bit of sheet into the corner and weld up. Sand off the loose and flaking paint and give it a coat of primer. Next job, 38 rivets to bang in, as the beading goes back on That'll impress the neighbours later this week!! They''re quarter inch dome head ones and they take a bit of knocking down too. Smear of filler over the rust damage and we're home and dry.
  10. Wanted Militant Wiper Switch

    Cap and valve arrived yesterday, Many thanks Simon. All I need now, is for it to stop raining so I can get them fitted
  11. 99p AEC MILITANT MK 1 1954 6X4 SCAM?

    The picture they have used is a very old one that has been available on the net for a good number of years. Sets the alarm bells ringing straight away. Good to see Ebay were quick to take it down1
  12. Wanted Militant Wiper Switch

    Simon, you are an absolute star, I'll send you a PM, assuming I can work out how to.
  13. Mk1 Militant Tanker

    Bit more progress today, weather started reasonable, but rain stopped play just after lunch so cut the day short, just as I was getting into the swing of it. That said, I did get the floor plates down on the drivers side You have to wire up the oil pressure sender unit, first, it fits just by the clutch pedal and runs along the floor rail to come up at the front to the dashboard. Connecting the pipes to the foot brake valve was interesting, now there is a wheelarch and other bodywork in the way, but managed it without too much grief. I had cut out a new piece of rubber for the handbrake gaiter, but managed to get the actual slot for the lever too far over to the right hand side. It did fit, but looked awful, so will have to try and get it right next time. Also left the new gear lever gaiter at home, so that's on the list for next week. Moved on to the exhaust, in preparation for the grand starting of the old motor shortly. I knew it had a hole in it, but I hadn't noticed the rest of the rot. It has seen better days, and the inside is just as rotten and falling apart as the outside. I think sourcing or making a new one is the way to go. I've been told the Iveco Cargo is a good match. just needs the flanges changing, so that's this weeks mission. One bit that has survived on the old silencer, and in quite good nick too is the little brass plate that tells you it was Made in England, doesn't say when, Certainly not recently, though!!
  14. Wanted Militant Wiper Switch

    Thanks for the replies, Gents, I think they were a standard part for anything built around that time that had the Tipco air powered wipers. Part Number in my Militant book is LV6\MT3 86977 If you have one Simon that would be great, otherwise I'll follow Neils advice and give Banisters a call. I'm not familiar with Nick Mead, I assume he is a breaker of various green things
  15. Wanted Militant Wiper Switch

    Can anyone help me out with a Wiper Switch/Air Valve for the old Tanker? Little brass gadget in the photo with the circle round it. As you can see this one has seen better days, apart from the top being missing, the whole thing is corroded beyond redemption. Ta for looking and many thanks in advance