Dave Page

Hi Paul, so that is what that tin is for, I have seen them and was always told they were grenade primer tins. Yes, please send an image of the packing material. Seems rather small for a bulb tin but I suppose if packed correctly it will work. Cheers, Dave

Hi Lauren, Thankyou for the images and measurements, it seems I was being a bit generous with my estimated dimensions. I guess the Canadian version would meet Fit and Function of the British tin, though the image of the British tin shows square corners whereas the Canadian has rounded corners. An example will turn up eventually. Thanks, Dave

Hi, I am seeking details on the spare bulb tin (box) that would be carried in WW2 British vehicles. I have seen blurry images of a small hingled lid tin that must be aprox. 4" x 2" x 3". Does anyone have an example they would be willing to measure and post images? It is a bit hard to find something that you don't really know what it looks like. Thanks, Dave

Hi Brent, the Autovac listed for sale should work but it is not quite the same as would have been fitted to your Wireless-Ant, the top is different in that the vent had a brass, bell-shaped cover. It does have the mounting brackets as well, which you may need. The Autovac is a simple device, it is a double-chambered cylinder, with a float in the upper chamber, more on the float later. The vacuum from the manifold connects to one of the top elbows, the other elbow marked "IN" is the petrol line from the tank selector and filter. There is a shut-off tap at the bottom of the Autovac, which feeds the carburettor, this must be turned off when the engine is shut down. Feed to the carburettor is by gravity. Petrol is drawn into the Autovac and enters the top chamber where it passes though a non-return flap into the lower chamber, then feeds out through the tap. When the lower chamber has filled, the upper chamber starts filling-up, as it does the float rises and begins to open the vent thereby reducing the vacuum until no fuel is being drawn in. As the fuel is drawn down the float lowers and shuts the vent and again fuel is drawn into the top chamber. There is also a drain bung in the base of the Autovac this is for cleaning out condensation and etc. this must be done periodically else it will rust through. There are a couple of ways to prime the Autovac should it run dry: 1. By the manual - shut off the tap at the bottom of the Autovac, remove the the carburettor bowl fill it manually, replace and start the engine. Repeat until fuel is evident in the lower chamber. 2. My method - shut off the tap at the bottom of the Autovac. Undo the "IN" pipe and move it slightly to the side, using a short section of rubber hose that will slip over the elbow, feed in petrol. I always carried spare petrol in a reserve tin, a rubber tube and a small pourer. 3. Tow start with the fuel shut-off tap open. Hope this explains sufficiently how the autovac works. Cheers, Dave

Hi, it is very simple to find out, check out the poster's other video of a Holden ute re-spray you can see their number plate very clearly. Dave

Mod Edit: Post removed at the request of another member.

Hi Brent, videos with good sound are good as well. Good luck with the restoration. Dave

Hi Brent, found an image, though black and white. She is definately a "Wireless-Ant", which would have had real doors. Cheers, Dave

Hi Brent, not sure that is the same truck I have seen an image of, thought it was light blue. Anyway, you have a "Wireless-Ant", which would have had a house-type body. Cheers, Dave

Hi Brent, good to hear from you, though I'm somewhat saddened to hear the Ant was scrapped. The radiator is likely the one I gave your father as he desperately needed one to get the Ant running, hope you can make good use of it, now. I have seen an image somewhere of the Ant you bought, have you found the chassis number (stamped into the NS rail below the passengers seat) or the contract number plate mounted near the steering column. You will find the WD number on each side of the bonnet under the civy paint. If you are looking to build a rear body, which are composite, so not that complicated there is a restored one near Christchurch. Cheers, Dave

Gentlemen, just found this thread and it has provided a bit of information I seek. I am trying to rebuild a Solex WNHPO and have a damaged WNHEO that I am hoping will provide some parts. Can someone provide the item listing from the Champ Parts List for the WNHEO so I can cross-reference with the WNHPO? Many thanks, Dave

Hi, found this on flickr: an FBAX with a Quad-Ant behind at Fallings Park. Cheers, Dave

Hi Glynn, thanks for the welcome. I have uploaded an image of my old truck in the "early Guy Ant" string. Just went through my files: Census No. Z4646406 Car No. A22257 I sold off to "Kiwi" who is also on this forum, he got all the NOS spares including 3 engines from scrapped trucks. As I recall there were aprox. 20 Ants in NZ. some were GS and others House-type Wireless-Ants, I could account for only 10 either as remains (engines) or had located the actual vehicle. I knew of 2 Wireless-Ants, one chassis (bent) and one unrestored. I know for sure that at least 4 were scrapped. There is another GS restored in West Melton (near Christchurch) NZ. While in the UK I met a chap in Sheffield who had one, pretty much a stripped chassis and I think the engine was seized. They were extremely rare 20 years ago, good to see some more brought back to life. Cheers, Dave

Hi, it warms my heart to see my old truck Z4646406 getting some use. And to all those that still think they are slow, and mechanical brakes are worthless, on the road they will maintain 40 mph up hill, down hill, empty or laden it makes no difference. The trick is to use the throttle correctly as the air velocity govenor will cut the throttle back if you bury the boot, especially when cold. The brakes, if set up properly, will stop you just as well as hydraulic with no risk of leaking cylinders and pumping to stop. If the image attachment works you will see my Ant with an Indian 741 aboard, a 25lber limber and a 6lber in tow. Driving home and not wanting to hang about lest the cops wonder why I had two trailers behind a "light" truck, I was going along at 30 mph. Going up a steep hill I managed to gain 5mph in speed! The engine needs to be brought under load before increasing the throttle, then they just go. Cheers, Dave

Hi Jules, a single blackout headlamp should be fitted to the nearside so the driver can see the kerbing or edge of the road, regular headlamps, if fitted, were on the OS and were independently controlled (own switch). Cheers, Dave

Hi Glynn, I wondered where Eddie Smith's "Wireless-Ant" went to, good to see she is in appreciative hands. I had the privilege to drive her once, she ran very well, though a little slower than my GS, likely due to the weight of the house-type body. By-the-way, I'm new to this forum. Cheers, Dave Page

Hi, just to introduce myself, I have been messing about with ww2 military vehicles since 1979. My first toy being a Truck 15cwt, 4x2 Guy "Ant" G.S. (sadly, sold off) then a motorcycle, solo, Indian 741-B, a brief ownership of of a Bedford MWC, another Indian 741-B and now a Daimler Dingo MkIII. The Daimler and one Indian are restored, the first Indian I disassembled for a complete rebuild as she was showing her age after 20 years from my original restoration. Cheers, Dave Page