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Everything posted by andym

  1. Do you mean the saddlebags? Andy
  2. Agreed - the ammunition in the turret makes a lot of difference! Andy
  3. No swim board, though! Andy
  4. It, the Stolly and the 432 have just moved to their new barn so hopefully I'll be back to working on them again. Andy
  5. My clutch plates were fine despite the vehicle being left outside under a tarpaulin for over a year, but I've been told that a suitable lever through the bellhousing inspection access works wonders if needed. Andy
  6. Plenty of traffic heading down to Overlord this weekend! Andy
  7. It wouldn't be the first time an ISPL has been out of sync with the vehicles! Andy
  8. That would be my suggestion too, my Abbot had the VRM written under one of the seat pads in the turret. Otherwise, unlike the 432, there is no chassis or hull number on the vehicle itself. Andy
  9. That's what I found in the ISPL, but the filter doesn't look like that. There's a completely different drawing in the repairs manual. Andy
  10. Can anyone tell me what washer is fitted to the oil scavenge filter covers on a Meteor 4B in a Centurion? One engine we looked at had flat copper washers, another had paper. The drawing in the manual looks like some sort of spiral affair but annoyingly it doesn't seem to appear in the parts list. Andy
  11. It's also covered in Chapter 4 of Infantry Pamphlet No. 41 Part 4 if you can find a copy.
  12. That's (hopefully) good news! Andy
  13. My Stolly has Britax inertia reel seatbelts, which I've replaced with new, but how common are they? I've seen plenty without. Andy
  14. As I understand it, a major issue is exposure to sunlight, which bakes the plasticiser out of the tyres and causes them to become less flexible. Andy
  15. It will be interesting to see if this will apply to all HGVs, including historic vehicles? https://www.gov.uk/government/news/government-to-consult-on-ban-on-10-year-old-tyres-to-boost-road-safety Andy
  16. For me it would depend on what you want to do with it. An exhibition piece might look better replated. Andy
  17. This thing is truly a work of art. It deserves to be sat in a museum somewhere with perspex replacements for the end covers, being slowly turned so that people can observe the genius behind the design! Andy
  18. Take a good look round the vehicle and see how unmolested it is. Are all the bits present in the engine bay such as the Firewire frame in front of the radiator? How much of the turret contents are present? They are awkward to find if you want to do a full restoration. As with all K60 vehicles, the heat exchanger is the weak point. Look for water in the gearbox oil or oil in the radiator. They are unique to the Abbot, impossible to get hold of as spares and very difficult to repair, not helped by the fact that the entire pack seems to be built round them. Check for overheating, the fans and their hydraulic system are also unique to the Abbot. Other than that, check the battery charging voltage as dead regulator boxes aren't uncommon. Some Abbots suffered from hull cracking but as it's under the pack you won't be able to see it. Oh, and take it for a decent drive to check gears and brakes! Andy
  19. There are three types of starter to be found on FV430s with K60 packs. The original axial Starter No.3 Mk.1 has a thermal switch that opens at 135 degrees C to prevent the starter from overheating. Not surprisingly, it was later realised this might not be a good idea on the battlefield so the outwardly identical axial Starter No.3 Mk.2 does not have the thermal switch. Both types of starter were later replaced with the S152 coaxial starter which also doesn't have a thermal switch. Note however that vehicles fitted with the S152 must have the modified DLB with starter relay as the starter switch can't cope with the higher solenoid current of the S152. Andy
  20. Be careful though - not all 7 pin to 7 pin cables have all the pins connected, depending on their original purpose. Andy
  21. Incidentally, in my experience applying large amounts of steady torque isn't the way to break a sticky thread (and torque multipliers are designed for doing things up, not undoing them). Using a decent length bar on the socket and bouncing the head of a sledgehammer off it is far more effective as the shock breaks the "lock" without wrecking the stud. Andy
  22. "I have come across left hand threads before...but nowhere near as late as 1985 ! " My 1992 RB44 uses them on the near side wheels, although I've never understood the logic behind it. Andy
  23. Are you sure they're pads rather than shoes? The xmod had some shoes in stock last time I looked, but as has been said, the old ones can be relined anyway. Andy
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