FourFox

Hi Jochen It's the gas regulator from a GPMG. This is the co-axial L8A2 and the L37A2 version that was fitted to both Chieftain (L8A2) and the Rarden turreted 432 series and the CVR Scimitar and Fox (L37A2). The weapons have several differences from the 'standard' L7A2 and L7A1 infantry weapons to make them more 'usable' in the restricted confines of a fixed turret mount. Jon

The mechanical fuel pump needs to be in A1 condition in order to prime itself from 'dry'. I get a similar problem with Fox fuel supply (although it has an electric pump). The slightest leakage past the pump valves, the fuel tap seal or a pinhole leakage in the suction lines gives the symptoms you describe. My solution is to use a manual priming bulb (like those used for outboard motor remote fuel tanks) in series with the fuel pump. This will fill the system with fuel and can be later removed. They usually work ok after this...if not its a fuel pump rebuild i'm afraid...and a thourough checking and re-sealing the fuel suction lines. Jon

The two terminals on the end of the starter are the main earth strap (the big one) and a thermostatic cut out (the small one). The 4 pin plug at the flywheel end of the starter carries the solenoid terminals. There are 2 wires for the solenoid initiation (when you switch to cranking) and the other 2 are the earth return for the solenoid. These are pared in opposite corners of the plug (diagonally) and are usually joined up in pairs. The current required for solenoid operation is too great for a single wire. The 2 solenoid earth wires are usually routed via 2 short wires to the big earth terminal on the rear of the starter, together with the earth strap. The small terminal on the end of the starter is usually connected to the vehicle control box where an 'earth' signal is required in order to operate the starter relay. It is supposed to prevent the starter operating when the internals of the starter have got too hot and the safety cut-out has operated. The positive battery feed to the starter goes to the 'peg' terminal on the flywheel end of the starter (alongside the 4 pin socket. The symptoms you have described are not obvious and could be for a number of reasons. Any drain on the ignition circuit, including wipers, horn, indicators or the complicated lighting wiring could be the cause. Battery and/or alternator faults are the most common (especially after someone has connected the battery up the wrong way round for a fraction of a second and fried the alternator diodes). I have even seen someone connecting the batteries to a slave vehicle the wrong way round (a well known dealership who should know better). It is possible that the thermostatic cut out signal wire has been mistakenly re-connected to the 4 pin plug. This is no problem on the 2 earth wires but would give a dead short accross the thermostat if connected to the solenoid operating wires. Keep us posted. Jon

I remember (from about 40 years ago) that the Ravenglas and Eskdale (Ratty) Railway had several locomotives based on the Model 'T' Ford. Also a letter, or preferably a visit to the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway down here in Kent might have some hardware and/or useful information. Jon

Very interesting picture of 00SP94. It looks identical to my 00WA63 before returning her to the original build spec. I wonder if there was more than one Wasp produced, or if there has been a number change at some time? Incidentally, it is quite a lot different to 00SP97 which is on display at Bovingdon Tank Museum. Jon

My second Saladin hull was completely stripped inside and out, sand blasted and primed. A final clean-up of the insides revealed a build-up of grundge still under one of the centre bevel boxes. I noticed a solid lump in the grundge, which turned out to be a Timex wrist watch. The watch was full of oil (typical for the bottom of a Saladin) The old leather strap was rotten but the watch is still in quite good condition. It can still be persuaded to run, after a fashion after tipping out the oil and replacing with white spirit. Jon

Just unpacked from another great show weekend. Some kind photographer sent me a copy of photos that might be of interest. I'm sure he won't mind me sharing them with you! And finally one of my prototype Scorpion. The weather was a bit better this year. The Sunday Firepower display and the CVRT driving and pyro display were perfect. (I know, 'cos I was commentating) The Deamon Wall of Death sideshow was awesome. I went twice...fantastic. See you all again next year. Jon

Progress has been made! The engine bay has been cleaned and painted and all the ancilliary fittings sorted before attemting to fit the engine. I know how little space there is to do power-steering pipes and throttle linkage once the engine is in. The old (original) batteries have been removed. Also the fibreglass battery boxes. This gives much easier access for fitting the engine. The turret floor has been totally removed and the support bars have been straightenned and painted ready for re-fitting after the bell-housing bolts have been tightenned and the engine ancilliaries have been checked for leaks. The gearbox (and the surrounding hull floor, even underneath the gearbox) has been has been thoroughly cleaned and the controls checked for correct operation. Finally drain and re-fill the rear bevel boxes to the correct level with oil (and Molyslip) and check that there are no leaks. This procedure is well nigh impossible with these early Foxes when the engine is in place as there are no extension filler pipes fitted. The engine has now been trial fitted with all the oil pipes and cooler. The fan pack has been aligned and all the new belts observed to be the right tension and running true. The fan pack will be removed before fitting the engine as I find it impossible to fit the rear engine mounting bolts with the fans in place! New engine wiring harnesses for the engine services and the starter have been made up (as I don't have good original ones) The restoration of all the floor plates is well under way, as is the turret basket. I will assemble the floor plates onto the support frame and photo them before fitting into the hull. I have not seen a good picture of the completed assembly as it gets a bit cramped down inside. Likewise I shall assenble the restored turret basket and (new) seats for a photo before dismantling and re-fitting to the turret. Progress will be slow next week as I am preparing for the Tank, Trucks and Firepower show at Dunchurch (near Rugby) over the Bank Holliday weekend. You should get along there if you can. It's the best 'live firing' demonstration anywhere. (I must admit to some bias here as I am booked to do the commentry again this year)...see you there. Jon

OK, so this is only MY last Fox restoration (I have now done 7). 08FD92 is an early Fox showing non of the later modifications. It is in remarkable original condition, and is still in the state it was recieved in my workshop following purchase from a well known dealer (with 3 others). Like most Foxes, it was supplied without an engine pack and has suffered cosmetically from being left outside for 20 years! It is surprisingly intact (apart from the engine) and I have lots of evidence to believe that the mileage shown on the speedo is a genuine 834 miles (yes, that's eight hundred and thirty four) since new! Being the last in a series of Foxes to be restored, I have kept the best of the NOS parts required from my stock for this project. The list of parts and assemblies is quite extensive and half fills one of my containers. It includes:- all 3 seat assemblies, new wheels and tyres (one has been fitted before), power steering pump, bilge pump, turret traverse box, alternator control box, air cleaner, all exterior lights, smoke dischargers and bins, first aid bin, pioneer tools, periscopes, complete radio installation (the 2 x 353s are tested take-outs), the majority of floor plates, fuel pump, exhaust system (silencer is an excellent take off), exhaust guard, fire extinguishers and a myriad of smaller parts (like the commander's foot pressel and map reading light) that make a big difference to the overall impression of a competent restoration. The engine is originally a domestic (XJ6) unit that was re-built by a competant (supposedly) Jaguar garage and was fitted in the prototype Fox. It is very similar to the original 101A that would have been fitted to this Fox. I thought it would be an easy task to fit a military sump and just pop the engine in! Not so fast.. the distributor is loose...its just come off in my hand! The learning process continues. Domestic engines are different in many details. The military distributor mounting plate does not fit the hole in the block as there is no recess and the holes are different. It had been modified by removing the mating spiggot and mounting with just the one bolt (which quickly became loose). No wonder it was running very erratically before it was removed from the prototype! A trepanning tool was made using a tungsten-tipped boring tool, and a slow speed (Wolf) drill used to cut the new locating recess in the (cast iron) block. Great, it's an excellent fit. The existing bolt hole is enlarged and tapped for the correct bolt and a new second bolt hole is made. A spare distributor is fitted with electronic ignition and a propper Fox distributor cap is re-furbished with new parts and fitted. All the cables feeding the ignition are replaced, including the new 24v power feed and suppression filter to feed the electronic ignition. Now for the sump change. Fluid flywheel drained and removed (seal and flange leaking anyway). Bell housing removed. (there were no triangular bell housing supports!). And the old automotive sump is removed. Gee, that oil pump suction pipe is much longer than a military center-feed one! At this stage I remove the camshaft covers in order to check the valve timing (I had noticed that the old ignition leads were not numbered correctly!). Wow! It's 270 degrees out. (actually slightly more as I could not adjust the ignition timing to the correct point). Again, no wonder that it was running like a dog! So the oil pump has to be removed and the distibutor/crankshaft driving gear re-set to the correct position. (using cam shaft setting gauge blocks and the dummy timing distributor). Re-fit a correct oil suction pipe and put it all back together with the correct militay sump (using all new tab washers)..not forgetting to fill the oil pump with oil to assist in rapid priming of the oil system. As an interesting (to some) aside...I have been told that the Jaguar racing boys fill their oil pumps with heavy oil (and sometimes light grease) to achieve rapid priming of the oil pressure before damage occurs to a rebuilt engine due to lack of oil on new bearings. Whilst I have all this engine stripped to such an extent I decide to build it up as a CVRT variant and run it up on the test rig (Fox build will not fit in the test cradle). Oil pressure achieved after about 10 seconds cranking. (the big gauge) Switch on fuel pump...and it fires up quickly. Still running like a dog... whats that hissing noise...there is a small second manifold vacuum tapping (apart from the one for the brake servo, which is alredy blanked off). This must have been open in its last installation...again no wonder it was not running right. I suspect it is an early variant of the disrtibutor breathing system. A bit of inuslating tape cures the problem. Re-set the slow running jets for a nice even pick-up when you ram the throttle open (on a warm engine)..check for obvious leaks and strange noises..using a long screwdriver like a stethoscope to listen to each valve tappet... and take photos for posterity...damn, forgot the camera. I look forward to running the engine again on Monday morning...taking photos at various engine revs (even checking the limiter...scary) and doing a few more checks before removing engine from the rig. Here is one showing a second multimeter checking the temperature sender (Fox variant only) And a couple of shots showing the start of the 'dressing up as a Fox' Will post more next week showing preparations for the engine installation and re-building (another) wheelstation. Jon

I did mine yesterday. It' probably the main contactor that has white fur on the copper contacts. You will hear the large relay go 'clunk' as the revs rise...but still no light. A quick scrape with 400 grit emery sorted the problem in a few minutes. I check the contact resistance to make sure that there is no debris still on the contacts. It should read close to zero ohms when you push the contacts together. It is also quite common for there to be a fault in the ammeter shunt circuit...just check the battery volts whilst running to see if it is really not charging. It's best not to mess with the regulator relay unless you are good at re-setting the cut-in voltage. It is just about impossible to clean the contacts without disturbing the relay spring. The tension on this spring determines the voltage that the alternator connects to the battery. Get it too low and the battery drains through the alternator. Get it too high and it will seriously overcharge. Don't forget that these alternators are rated at 200 amps! It is also capable of outputting voltages in excess of 200v dc if you get it really wrong. Incidently I worked out that the fan drive coupling on a Fox has to absorb 50hp when charging at full whack! I have reset a Fox regulator using a variable voltage power supply and lots of dummy resistors (variacs) simulating the alternator windings. It should cut-in at about 28v. Good luck. Jon

I have found that the best (but probably not the quickest) way to ease the hinges on all the movable parts is to use a large amount of heat. Just get the parts red hot so that they will just move, and then work the cooling masses with a lot of WD40, backwards and forwards. It can take severl hours. I made a kind of 1 inch plate spanner with a 4 ft. long, 1 inch dia bar welded to it. It gives a good mechanical advantage in working the hatches too and fro. A word of warning (to those with a turret)...the top of the turret is about 8 ft off the ground. Standing on the roof, working the 'spanner' backwards and forwards, but still needing plenty of welly, the spanner slipped big time. I went off the turret roof backwards....and managed to do a complete backwards somersault...landing on my feet on the concrete floor, 8 feet below. I was just beginning to think 'boy, this is your lucky day', when the spanner, on it's descent from quite a height, clouted me on the head! It was probably my lucky day after-all as my cloth cap deflected the collision and prevented a more serious injury. The torsion bar arrangement for the driver's hatch is probably beyond repair. I have now had to make 2 of these as I cannot find spares anywhere. I used a special spring steel (which a freind sourced and brought me from Iceland (really)). The second one I turned one from a damaged CVRT road-wheel spring. The machining was surprisingly easy. I have a source for NOS turret rings and traverse gear assemblies, but sadly no spare turret. Jon

In between the rain-showers I have driven the Fox around a bit. Here are some pictures of the 'dressing' for the W&P. Periscopes are now all in place. Insides are almost complete. Just fitting the pioneer tools and fire extinguishers etc. I am waiting for some better weather before attempting my first long drive! I should be there Tuesday or Wednesday. Come and see it on the AFV site (in the far corner of the Monkton's field) Jon

Being a Prototype, it was never in the forces fleet. It's made of pure aluminium and not armoured. After extensive testing at MVEE, (it's done over 3,000 miles) it rested in the Bovington reserves for many years. I believe the engine was taken to display as a sectioned 'Scorpion' engine which is still on display in the museum. It is quite clearly a J60 Mk100 from a prototype Fox! It was disposed of about 6 years ago and passed through 2 owners (I think) before being partially restored and put into running order. (I talked to the guy who did this and obtained some useful bits from his scrap pile.) At least 2 more owners..and then it appeared for sale again on the internet. I was unsuccessful and it was sold to a colleague (who has an interesting collection of armour and heavy trucks). I purchased it together with a derilict (very) Saladin, which has now been restored and passed on to it's new owner. The Fox was just about in running order (it appeared at Beltring about 4 years ago) and had been DVLA registered. It has sat in my shed for about 3 years awaiting its turn (and the necessary components) for restoration.. I already had the correct engine perpared for another Fox under restoration. Final painting and titivating is now under-way and should be completed this week. I know that the previous owner was very impressed with my restoration of his Saladin. This one is even better. Come and have a look at Beltring. The Fox is now for sale....better still, why not take the pair and get yourself a Prototype Scorpion as well! It is an odd fact that these rare and difficult prototypes are much more costly to restore than the production vehilces and yet they are worth considerably less when completed. (you will need £40k for the pair) Still, I think they are well worth preserving as they give a fascinating insight into the development of the production vehicles and they will make fantastic working additions to any collection. They are restored to 'better than museum' standards and should be preserved for perpetuity. Jon

The turret has been mostly cleaned of old paint and will be ready for its new DBG next week. I do not recommend the use of a large (9 inch) angle grinder with a coarse wire brush for this job. It has the tendency to violently buck about in its attempt to remove your overalls (or worse), especially whilst working from the top of a ricketty step ladder. It does remove more paint faster though! And youv'e no need to go to the gym for a few weeks! In addition I use 2 smaller (5 inch) grinders, one with a radial brush and the other with a cup brush. These get into all the nooks and crannies where the 'big one' can't reach. It also allows adequate time for each one to cool off during a prolonged session of paint removal. Note the heavy duty builders-polythene 'barbers' bib to protect the new tinwork from the mess above. It works great and allows walking around on it without undue slipping or marking the paint underneath. More progress next week. Jon

I just cut off some 3/8 UNF (8.8) bolts with the right thread length and chamfer almost to a point. You can easily MIG weld them to the hull using a magnetic clamp to keep them at right angles. Any lumpy welding (on the first few) can be ground back and re-threaded with a die-nut. There just is no substitute for practice when it comes to welding! Jon

Hi Tim. No...the repair was quite excellent. The Prototype forward/reverse linkage uses a hollow aluminium rod which buckled and eventually fractured. It was repaced on the production Scorpions with a similar sized solid steel rod. It would be prudent to do a similar replacement! It's only done about 5 miles on the temporary repair. Jon

Hi Andy Yes...It was a good outing for my Prototype Scorpion and we all had great fun in the arena despite breaking a gear linkage and having to be 'DROPS' out with Dave Perks' monster truck. The 'Alvis Boys' soon had her fixed for the next days running. The Scorpion has been at Dunchurch since their August Bank Holiday show and I have no plans to bring her to Beltring this year. She will no doubt be in action again at this years Dunchurch show when I hope that she will be joined by the Fox prototype. The last 4 armoured vehicles I have restored (2 x Saladins, Scorpion Prototype and Fox Prototype) have all been in 'Deep Bronze Green' and I am now getting a bit fed up with the same old colour. The latest Fox (and the last) is a production one in sand and black camouflage...oh joy! Hope to see lots of you at W&P. Jon

I am intending to be at W&P for the duration. See you there! I shall be with the Alvis Fighting Vehicle Group and usually set-up camp on the weekend before. OK...strictly speaking the prototype Fox is a Daimler...but they ceased production of armoured vehicles after failing to win the contract for the production Foxes and their design role was taken over by Alvis. Jon

Hi Tim I am booked in to W&P with this Fox (The Scorpion can stay in Dunchurch until the August bash) and hope to have it finished by then. I shall be going to Maidstone tomorrow to pick up a Tax Disc (It's already civillian registered and SORN) and hope to drive it to Beltring. I am even planning to drive it up to the Dunchurch AFV show if I haven't sold it by then! (anyone got a spare £15K) It has almost a full tank of fuel and it would be a pity to waste it! It will be great to see the pair of prototypes together for the first time since they have both been restored to their original DBG. It will also save money by getting lorry transport back from the midlands for both vehicles. The progress yesterday was good, with the fitting of the LHS swim-screen skirt and all the mudguards and flotation bin. I have to do a bit of back-tracking today as the fitting of the new float-screen cover at the front is not good. I have to remove the zillion bolts and move the screen across about 4mm ....damn. Still it's a good wet day for an indoor job. It's a pity all the bolts at the front are the really awkward ones that you cannot get a socket on either end and it all has to be done the slow way, with 2 open enders. Should make some progress on fabricating the rest of the screen today. I must remember to collect a trailer load of wood for the campfire. (and a few beers) Jon

Progress was very good yesterday! The new tinwork has already been welded and trial fitted. My welding is getting better after a bit of practice. The tinwork has had primer and a first top coat. The final assembly has started. The base frame for the swim-screen is now in one piece and has started to be bolted to the wings (trapping the lower edge of the swim-screen bellows). There are over 500 bolts in this process. The newly restored engine covers and spine are now fitted in place and the RHS rear bin has had a new back plate welded in place. (it looked a bit out of place being a bit crumpled amid all that nice straight tin.) RHS mudguards and flotation tank have been fitted. The old upper 'top-hat' section of the swim screen has been removed and the new replacement sections are being drilled and welded to form a nice new (straight) cover. I should get the LHS into the same state today...and then start working on the turret. Jon

At last some fine weather and I'm able to get on with the dirty work! Here is the other rear quarter, all cleaned of rust, dirt and de-greased. And painted. And the front RHS. A general view of the finished RHS undecarriage. I should be able to complete the LHS front today and that will allow me to start installing the new tinwork. All the welding and fettling has been completed during the bad weather and most of the preliminary painting of the tinwork. It has all been trial fitted to the hull and any necessary hole adjustments made. Progress should look a lot faster now! Jon

I have a spare NOS boxed Lucas unit in my stores. Yours for £25 plus postage. It's the same as my Scorpion and the production Fox. I have seen identical headlights on the Spanish built, look alike, military Landrover (Santander?) so there must be a source of the units somewhere. I also hear that they are readily available in the USA. Jon

Just for those who are anoracks on this subject...here is the one that later went to Qatar. Yes I know it looks the same as the other one...but that's the point! The dusty footmarks all over it are the result of 2 weeks at W&P. It is shown here after the end of the show awaiting transportation back to Sandwich. Here is the starting point of the next one (now in Rugby)! Jon

Hi Bob I have made most of the tinwork for my last 2 Saladin restorations. One has gone to Qatar and the other is with her new owner in Rugby. I still have the drawings and a few of the parts necessary and could make you a set. Also I do Saladin silencers and eductor tinwork. Regards Jon

Here at last is the results of several weeks of CAD drawings for all the tinwork required for my Fox Prototype. And whilst I was at it, I did the same for my early production Fox. The Laser cutting for all this took 9 sheets (8 x 4) of 1.5mm Zintec with an average usage of nearly 80%. It took a complete day (2 of us) to fold all this tinwork using 2 CNC presses and about 20 changes of tooling. We only made 2 slight mistakes..both on the same front wing. The long fold for the 'safe edge' (only on the production wings) slipped off one of the machine guide stops, giving a 2mm unexpected taper to the fold. Probably won't notice this! The slight 'up-bend' for the shock absorber clearance hump became 90 degrees (instead of 25 degrees) because we forgot to re-start the machine programme. I shall have to relieve the back of the bend with a slitting disc so that it will bend back to the correct angle without casing waves in the lovelly straight tinwork! All the Prototype tinwork is now being fitted to the vehicle so that any corrections to the general fit, and hole adjustments can be made where necessary. Then all that is needed is a small amount of welding and preliminary painting. I will keep you posted! Jon