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Old Bill

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Old Bill last won the day on September 13

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About Old Bill

  • Rank
    Lieutenant-Colonel
  • Birthday 01/18/1965

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  • Location
    Leicestershire
  • Interests
    Military Vehicles, miniature steam locomotives, ships, aeroplanes, anything mechanical.
  • Occupation
    Refuse Collection Vehicle Designer

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  1. Hi Chaps. We have been fortunate to have a day when we were all in the same place at the same time! The cross bar is pinned into the castings and the shackles pivot freely on it. It does seem a very odd way to do things. The only reason I can see is that the vertical spring force no longer tend to twist the chassis rails inwards. It takes a lot of metal to achieve that, though. Any further thoughts would be appreciated. Steve :)
  2. What is the story here, Mo? Do you have any plans for it? If you can show a pic of the inside of the front dumb irons that would show whether it is early or late war. Another clue would be the bolt holes for the gearbox in the subframe. Four in a square pattern would be earlier than two about a foot apart one side and only 4" apart on the other. There seems to have been a sudden spate of Thorny J's in the last few years. You are in good company here! Steve
  3. Alternatively, you could make something up using Belleville washers or even laminate some 1/4" rubber and flat steel washers. It only needs to take the shock out of the system. If you use rubber, make sure the rubber washers are smaller in diameter than the steel in order to allow somewhere for the rubber to go under load. We were fortunate in that we had two drag links (both of which were scrap) and in each case, one spring had survived. Steve
  4. Great job! It is nice to see other sorts of equipment being brought back as well. Steve
  5. Don't forget, Tomo, that I made the pistons to suit the rings I could buy! Steve
  6. Very like the J in style. Our reverse gear idler bearing was completely worn away as well. I find this odd as there is no load on it for most of the time but the bushes typically disappear. Good to see you making progress! Steve
  7. Our valves were all made by G & S and the liners by Westwood. Both gave first rate service. Steve
  8. Hello there! Father has been up for the weekend and has brought the cleaned-up followers with him. I have had a look and am quite happy that the tappets are 5/16" x 26 tpi. If a 55° angle then they would be a BSB thread for which we have taps and dies in stock. As you can see, I fitted both by hand and they are fine. Stiff but no rattle. The male thread is a bit truncated though, which brings the OD down. If they are Slough Lorries spare parts then I expect them to be 55°. If they are original manufacture, then I guess they would be 60°. Three of the tappets are rusted away completely and four are bent. The nuts are a mixed lot too so I have asked Father to make up a complete new set from 1/2" AF hex and will case harden the heads on completion. Trying to identify old threads without causing more damage can be challenging! Whilst looking at the threads, I could see that two of the rollers are beyond use so I will make up some replacements. The pin they run on is secured by a cross-pin with the ends riveted over. First job was to drill out the countersink. Both pins came out quite esily with a pin punch. The pin, of another weird dimension (!), Has a very nice oil groove cut in its underside. I am getting the impression that this engine is quite nicely engineered. I'll do the second one shortly and make up some new rollers from silver steel so that I can harden them. Many thanks for all of your thoughts regarding the thread. I have now learned that 25tpi is used on Springfield rifles! Always something new. Steve
  9. Nice picture John. You have some good detail in there The chap behind your Grandpa does look remarkably like Tomo! Steve
  10. Well, we are still doing odds and ends whilst we try to keep a lot of other balls in the air. Going to drop one sooner or later but in the meantime the lorry is a making a little progress. Dad is still working on the chains. They are a tedious job and best attacked in small doses. I wanted to get the pistons out so I can have a look at making some new ones. Big end is fairly conventional. A bit of contortionism! And off it came. No wobble or wear. A really nice joint. I wish the last owner had taken a bit more care. There is no wear at all, just two broken castings! Actually, the castings are amazingly thin. They are iron and only around 1/16" thick. I don't expect that mine will be quite so light. Lubrication to the big ends is by splash in this engine. See the big holes at the sides of the journal to let the oil in. The magneto bracket has been annoying be. It looks as if it has taken a bash and bent the crank case. I set about taking it off with some coaxing and oil. Off it came. The base plate is broken but replaceable. The best bit was that the crank case casting isn't bent so that is a win. On the other hand, i tried to unscrew a bolt from a boss on the side of the case and it split. I think it was cracked already but it is a real nuisance and will take some sorting. On to the governor on the other side. A lot of it is missing but the basic mechanism is still there. # With the cover off, there is a lever carrying a yoke. The yoke sits on these two pins which push it back and forth, actuated by the bob weights inside. This sping sets the governed speed. It has no adjustment and is set in position by a cross-pin under the washer. Once slid off the shaft, it is again in beautiful condition with no wear. The drive gear spindle has a key along its length which takes the drive for the weights. The gear is in lovely order too. Bob weights removed. The magneto drive gear on the other side is nice too. Dad has picked up the cam followers for a clean and inspection. Again, no wear at all but some corrosion on the rollers. I see these very much as borderline and am deciding whether to replace them. The last three have very corroded tappets. Dad has reached the conclusion that they are a metric fine thread which I find bizarre for an Americn lorry. He has ordered some bolts to try in the holes and will make up some replacements in due course. We want to turn the engine pver and lift the crank next time we get together. Once that is done and the camshafts are out we can get on with creaning and putting it back together. I must get on with the piston pattern. Steve
  11. Very many thanks for all of your thoughts. We have certainly got some things to try there. One of the castings is a bit pitted but the other two are new and polished by ourselves. They might not be perfectly round but they are smooth. The hose is 'Radiator Hose' with no wire braid core. I know this as the word 'Radiator' was written along the side in bright orange letters. It took ages to get it off! It wasn't tremendously tight but it did need pushing on. The clips we have are a bit on the narrow side. On the other vehicles, we have used a standard worm drive clip until the joints have taken up and then replaced them with brass ones of the period to look right. The leakage did slow down as it warmed up. Another annoyance to address! We'll let you know how we get on. Steve
  12. Leaking hose connections. Cannot sort them even with modern clips! We have, at least, put gaskets and sealant under everything this time so it can't run into the sump like before. Any thoughts on what to do about the hoses? Is there a recommended goo we could use? I have never had much luck in keeping fluids in any of my toys. It seems to be a knack I have yet to master! Steve
  13. Spent a nice weekend in Devon. Bit of a gale blowing though. I took the opportunity to fit the HT lead tube and reinstate the leads. They all fitted well and held the leads away from the exhaust for the first time so I am pleased with that. As it hasn't run for six months we couldn't resist it and after putting a couple of gallons in the tank, gave it a swing. Much to our amazement, it fired on the very first revolution and, once warmed through, ran very sweetly. It is obviously looking forward to going out! One more thing to fix was the throttle/advance detent on the steering column. The advance lever didn't lock into the detent the last time out, so it retarded itself and ran really hot until it seized again. I adjusted the casting with a file until it sat better and hopefully, the lever will stay where it is put. Fingers crossed for the next outing, whenever that may be. We did some Peerless too but I shall post that later. Steve
  14. Also known as 'Alum'. It works very well as I took a steel spindle out of the the brass fuel filter for our Dennis. Available from on-line pharmaceutical suppliers, amongst other things! Steve
  15. Thanks Terry. I have read about doing it that way but have never tried it. Must make up a test one first to see how it goes! There will be a number of patterns for the Peerless but hopefully not too many so I will try then. New piston needed first. Cheers! Steve
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