Pete Ashby

True Lauren and they are pretty bullet proof and very easy to build, I'm just scarred I think from dodgy divers bell distributors weak condensers and fuel vaporization issues on CMP 6 volt systems :-( Pete lover of straight sixes

The question occurs Bill.......... do you turn his face to the wall every time you are on a mission Pete 'Give it to me with the bark on'

The Bedford MW range would be a good bet, comparatively good parts availability for major components and a reliable straight six cylinder engine that you will be able to get to grips with without the complications of a V8 in the case of the WoT's or the more difficult parts supply for the Morris C4/8 range. Pete

12 o'clock High made in 1949 it's dated by modern standards but has some cracking memorable lines in the dialogue Pete

On the back of the stores shelf Iv'e got a couple of vacuum wiper units marked TEX made in England with British and US Pat Nos there are no other part numbers or unit model numbers to be seen. I have a use for them now, however Iv'e not come across this type of shaft fixing before (see photo), can anyone advise please how the wiper arm is attached, is it a roll pin or something similar ? also what does the wiper arm look like ? Many thanks Pete

Long shot, but you could try gliding clubs that winch launch, may may have something tucked away round the back of the hanger. Pete

Mark, try this link http://www.trueloyals.com/index.html a lot of information here. regards Pete

To tell if your springs are weak is to remove them and measure the eye to eye distance and compare with the factory spec in your manual. A number of GPW's and MB's with the original spring packs lean to the left and down in the left rear corner this can give the sensation when on the road of trying to drive up hill to the right all the time. New springs bushes shackles and shocks will cure this the truck will sit square and drive straight. All the component parts are readily available and new springs can be either bought from the dealers or manufactured to original spec I use a very firm in the black country excellent work for a reasonable price. Gordon was flagging up the fact that Doge parts can be used at a pinch but it should not be necessary for you to do this. If you need the factory specs and or contact addresses let me know. A word to the wise not all jeep springs are the same, apart from adding an additional leaf........... from to 8 to 9 fronts and 10 to 11 rears the left front spring (drivers) has a different load setting so don't mix them up make sure you mark the front Left spring and do not be tempted to mix and match spring leaves. One last thing the spring eyes should be handed so that the left front and right hand rear eyes are Left hand thread. However spring packs may have swapped out so check before you start to lean on a bar to get them undone. All sounds a bit long winded and expensive I'm afraid, but properly maintained suspension is key to a safe and controllable vehicle and you will be amazed at how much better the truck rides and stops. Pete Pete

Excellent that will do nicely Many thanks Pete

Now there's a thing !! nice one Gordon never new that :cool2: Pete

Thanks Richard, I use Namrick for Imperial Whit and BSF fixings, I'll re check their site the last time I looked I couldn't find star washers. Pete

Thanks Gordon, but as any one who's been to Jaap's knows finding it can be the issue :wow: Pete

For my own projects I do exactly the same Clive thinned to spraying viscosity with fast cellulose, kept cool and frost free it keeps really well. Pete

Might give a more of a clue Bill if you have a photo of the other side (outside) face of the rim ? Pete

Useful thanks for the info Steve. Running close to the wind with the dregs of the tin is often a problem near the end of a restoration. There always seem to be more bits and pieces that need painting than you think and with the cost of paint now no one wants to end up with an opened gallon tin sitting on the shelf part used. Pete

Any one have a good source for various sizes of external toothed star washers ?, the fixing suppliers I use don't seem to stock them Thanks Pete PS Richard, I have plenty of spring washers in stock before you start :blush:

Google suppliers of UNF and UNC nuts and bolts or try e bay there is a wide choice out there. Try to avoid the plated ones that are advertised, they wont take paint well unless you etch prime. Pete

Try these guys in the states http://www.midwestmilitary.net/mbgpwpartsp2.html Pete

Certainly will Ivor, a GMC running unloaded and with properly maintained brakes will lock up solid if you stand on the pedal, there is no load adjustment system on the hydrovac, my old GMC had exceptional good brakes. NoS exceptional sleuthing Sir:drive: I'd missed the tyre marks in your picture.............. so.....guilty as charged the Yank was on the wrong side of the road Pete

True.......... but the position of the vehicles with regard to the crown of the road and the fact that there are no tyre marks on the road is odd. I think my money would be on the bus turning out of the side road and you may be right about the ambient conditions, perhaps that would account for the lack of tyre marks........they didn't see each other until they collided. Pete

Interesting pictures thanks for posting. I think period pictures of MV's in civilian settings are always interesting as there are sometimes details of every day war time life unintentionally included in the frame as evidenced by the tank blocks in the GMC/bus pictures. I am left wondering how the bus and GMC actually ended up coming together ? GMC on the wrong side of the road or the bus turning out of the side road into the path of the truck ?. Pete

If you are stripping and sending to the machine shop I would do a proper job, measure the valve stems and guides against the factory specs, check the springs and replace as needed. In fact for the small extra cost check your crank mains and big ends bores and rings at the same time. 'Do it once do it right' is a good maxim to work to. The truth is a part job will only cost more money in the long run in both hard cash and grief :cry:. A word of warning look for a machine shop that is used to dealing with older engines I have an excellent machine shop I use here in Carmarthen but that's a bit of a hike for you from Bristol you should be able to find a good shop in the Midlands I would have thought. Pete

I think I'm with you on this Ray Pete

PM received and private e mail with attachments sent to you Pete

The key to your question is what type of C15 or C15A do you have?. I'm assuming you may have a 13 cab from your post? Is it 11 cab early April 1940 to late summer 1940, or 11 cab late summer 1940 to feb march 1941, or 12 cab feb march 1941 to fed march 1942 or 13 cab feb march 1942 to 1945 and I think from memory that there were changes to the clam shell brackets for the spare wheel on late production 13 cabs but I'd have to check my records to be sure. I aware this all may sound a bit pedantic however there were a number of significant changes to tool box design during the early period of production depending on type of vehicle and period of manufacture. As Lauren suggests do a search on MLU there has been a fair amount of discussion on this subject. I have a full set of plans for the transverse tool box that I have supplied to several members of MLU. I produced these from original examples for mid range 12 cab C15A and used them to construct a tool box for my C15A (tha'ts the one that features on the home page of MLU) let me know if you would like a copy. Pete