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Pete Ashby

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Pete Ashby last won the day on July 16 2019

Pete Ashby had the most liked content!

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About Pete Ashby

  • Rank
    Lieutenant-Colonel
  • Birthday 01/01/1901

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  • Location
    Wales
  • Occupation
    Small holder and restorer

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  1. I would recommend you test for oil pressure now before doing anything else that screen looked very clogged in your photos. Your low oil pressure problem could be one of several different or interconnected faults by doing lots of things without testing in between you will not find out what the problem was. All you'll know is that hopefully it went away and just like problems with ignition systems that will be fine until the problem suddenly returns at a later date. Pete
  2. Gordon has a good point here, if the new oil has stirred up sludge in the bottom of the sump it may well have blinded the mesh screen on the floating pick up head, it's the feed for the whole lubrication system and if this has become restricted it would explain your sudden loss of oil pressure. This is the easiest and cheapest first step in diagnosing and solving your problem. What ever the out come make sure you let us all know what the problem was and how it was fixed it's always useful to know the outcome of issues like this. Pete
  3. Pete Ashby

    Wanted

    Yes no problem Howard I'll look one out for you. Pete
  4. Pete Ashby

    Wanted

    Nothing moving here I'm afraid for the foreseeable future Howard. When the current situation eases give me another shout I have a number of them and they are not going anywhere fast and then I'll work out a price for you with shipping included as usual at cost. cheers Pete
  5. Pete Ashby

    Wanted

    I have a few Howard, getting it to you at the moment may be a problem in the current climate. Pete
  6. Taking advantage of the warm weather a sealing coat of gloss black was sprayed onto the inner and outer rims and locking bands that had been cleaned and undercoated in the previous post Inner rims Outer rims and locking bands Pete
  7. So for the past eleven months effort has focused on getting the the D15 up to the rolling chassis stage but now it's back to working on the Leyland. This phase is all about wheels and tyres and working towards getting the truck moving under its own power for first time in nearly 60 years. A journey into the unknown at the back of the barn was in order to unearth the rear wheels and tyres that had not been touched since I bought the truck nearly 30 years ago safe to say they had not improved with keeping however the rats’ mice and spiders had found them most accommodating. The Retriver runs on 900.20 tyres mounted on split rims held in place with a locking ring like a ginat snap ring this type of system is known in the trade as the ‘Widow Maker type’…….. well there’s encouraging then. First job was to remove the valve core completely and after the tyre had deflated poke a length of wire down the stem and into the tube cavity to ensure that there was no blockage that could result residual pressure in the tube. If everything works as it should the outer rim is pushed down a little to start to free the locking ring from the groove then using two tyre levers the locking ring is prized out of the groove in the outer rim, turn the tyre over and the main part of the rim just drops out…..oh how we laughed!.....the only way to do it after 80 years was to cut the tyres up with a Fein saw fitted with a course blade which actually made very short work of them to be fair. Here’s a tyre after having a close encounter with the Fein saw This is the pile of inner and outer rims and locking rings ready for de-rusting After rust and residual paint removal an undercoat of zinc rich primer has been applied Pete
  8. If you don't have access to a small flame gas torch for the stubborn fixings try using a hot air gun, the sort sold in DIY stores or on line, use the narrow nozzle in the kit you'll be surprised how well it works with a little WD40 while the nut or bolt is still hot Pete
  9. For anyone who has not picked this up already on Milweb to see details go https://www.milweb.net/classifieds.php?type=21 Malvern postponed until June 28th Keep safe everybody Pete
  10. Pleased you've got it sorted Jim and it was something simple, thanks for coming back and letting us know it's always useful to know the outcome. Pete
  11. Your welcome Jim, I'm basically lazy so I do all the simple stuff first. Your problem particularity as you say it ran fine before you changed to gaskets suggests a fairly large air leak on the induction side of your engine that's why your not seeing much in the way of vacuum. Vacuum = absence of air or something lower that atmospheric pressure if you like, so to be pedantic your problem is not lack of vacuum it's too much air leading to low or no vacuum it's perhaps easier to think of it this way round so check the hoses and connections first. Then with the engine running spray a little WD40 around the base of the carb/inlet manifold joint if the engine speeds up the leak is there and then do the same on each inlet flange/to block joint. The vac gauge, compression gauge and a cheap multi meter to measure dwell and engine RPM are your best and most used tools on these old engines using them you can diagnose mechanical problems, set timing, set dwell and fault find your ignition and lighting circuits. Good luck and come back and tell us what the problem was it's always useful for all of us to hear the result. Pete
  12. It would be worth checking the rubber hose connections to your wipers and/ or advance retard diaphragm first for leaks or splits also the joint between carb and inlet manifold. If they check out it would be worth investing in a a vacuum gauge ( the non damped version from the usual sources on e bay or your local car factors) don't spend huge sums of money £10 to £20 max should get you what you need, you are looking for trends not definitive numbers. Temporarily connect the gauge to your vacuum wiper port or any other suitable location below the throttle plate on the carb or inlet manifold. Run some diagnostic checks (google how to read a vacuum gauge if you have not used one before). This can all be done in the workshop no need to take the truck out on the road. Depending on what you find with the vacuum gauge the next test would be with a compression gauge on each cylinder again google how to do this if you have not done it before results need to be done first dry then with a small amount of oil down the plug hole. In both cases check the results with the diagnostic charts, it could be one of a number of issues or a combination of them the combined results from vacuum and compression will point you in the right direction. A little time spent now while the engine is complete and running will save you endless hours of grief and quite possible 100's of £'s wasted on doing unnecessary work or going round in circles. Pete
  13. This is the connection to the radio outlet box (just a plain metal junction box) located on the inside of the body below the passenger all ACM 1 and 2 bodies were fitted with it as standard from MB 217543 March 1943 onward GPW's would have followed on at about the same time. Pete
  14. The Complete WW2 Military Jeep Manual ISBN 9781855201217 Pub by Brooklands Books, this will give you everything you need it's a reprint of all the original war time TM's for the jeep. Just be warned when rebuilding the engine the instructions for fitting the con rods to the crank are wrong this was not corrected until after the war. To read about the correct assembly and the reasons why the war time TM is wrong do a search on the G503 forum( I sent the link earlier to you). Pete
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