andrewroberts.1953

Hello I am trying to get an Iltis body from Belgium. It's close to Liege. The dealer will not supply me one "off the pile" so to speak. Someone must go and pick one, but I am not able to do that myself due to a whole list of reasons. Can someone, go along, pick one, and if possible transport it back to UK please? Even if its. just have a look, and pick one that would be of massive help. I have tried for over a year to get this done, but no joy. Thanks Andy

Only used on 6/8. But not on all production, early ones not fitted.

Very possibly WS no19.

Some Rovers (24 volt) were fitted with a socket to start helicopters. But most I have seen had the socket on the seat box front on the nearside. but like all these things, lots of differant versions would have come about.

Good work. I and others will be in Plymouth city centre on Saturday, 6 vehicles at the momment and about 15 collectors.

I have seen this with Series in general. This is normally because someone took the lights off the repalce a wing, or paint. Then put them back the wrong way.

It's good to be back in MUNGA land at long last! Trish I know will ensure I don't go at things like a bull at a gate, but hope to be able to help people as much as I can. First answer to a question is, yes 205x16 fit and are a good ride. But like ALL tyres on fitted to the MUNGA, you must make sure that the wear is the same on ALL the wheels. If you don't, you will get wind up in the transmission. That can lead to the joints wearing quickly, and problems with the gearbox etc.

Hi again. Sorry I have not been about, but as you know I had a bit of a accident. To make sure I rested etc, Trish (who is a nurse, so knows best) has been looking at the forum and telling me what's going on. But she did not want me to get back to doing things, until I was fit enough to do all the things she knows I would want to do. Anyway, all but back to as close as we can expect to normal operation. So over the next week or so, I will start to get things back in hand.

From memory, it's an eight foot whip type. A bit of wire that long will do for testing. The radio I think, is positive earth but I can't be sure as it's about 30 years since I played with one. I will try and look out my notes. An antenna complete with special mounting should be in the kit of bits, if complete. If you take the radio out of the case, be careful with the valves etc. Only take one out at a time, and pull the base bit NOT THE GLASS! Also, don't poke fingers in with it running. The power unit produces over 250 volts for the valves, and it really hurts if you touch it! Always keep one hand in your pocket, as this makes sure you don't get a shock across your heart.

Yes, these were for staff cars etc. Built from about 41 to about 46. If the radios not been used for a few years, the capacitors may very well have died. So don't expect them to be the best in the world. Start the radios on a bit less than 5 volts, and work up to the full 6.3 volts over 24/48 hours or so. If you can get them working, not bad to listen to world service etc.

Welcome, here in Plymouth I have Rover Mk8 FFR, Rover Mk8 GS, Munga 4, Iltis. So understand your interest in early Land Rovers. Very freindly on this forum, and lots of people who know all there is to know about all sorts of vehicles and kit. Have fun, make freinds and welcome again.

John Due to falling down stairs (no I had not had too many NAFFI buns!", I can't get to my MUNGA info/spares. With luck, I will be mobile enough next week to get to bits for you. The new canvas arrived yesterday, and it looks really good. The chap's made a superb job of it, if anything beter that the original ones! Just hope to try it on my MUNGA, as soon as I can get to it.

I seem to remember talking to a MOD and an OFCOM man, and even PRRs are not legal even to own. I am sure ALL Bowman kit is in fact not owned by MOD, but by GD. You can buy a PRR from Selex etc, but NOT for use in UK the items MUST be exported. But to be sure i will ask the people I know in MOD and OFCOM again.

John Sorry I did mean to put the pages in the post to you, but forgot! Arms are standard Bosch, I will find the part number for you, just needs a small mod. Wiper motors are the same as on most post war German vehicles, I will see if I have a spare. How can you say it rains in Wales, I have heard the local councils are buying in plant to move all the dead camels off the roads due to lack of water!

You just need general purpose grease, but don't over do it. Same grease for all nipples on the MUNGA.

John Very good news. The air of Wales will now be full of two stroke oil fumes, and not a moment too soon. The gaiters from kempers are causing lots of problems in Germany. I will see if I can find the correct size ones, as I may need one myself in the near future. The high/low control on the top of the gearbox can get stuck, and a mod was carried out to help with this. I will pull out the info and get it to you. It's funny to watch some testers when you turn up with a MUNGA, the face is a picture. Less so in older olds, but the young ones get a bit concerned that it can't go on the rolling road, and the amount of smoke. The lights and rear turn lights really do make them shake their heads! Well all you need to do now, is enjoy getting out and about with the roof down.

Yes, I forgot to put it in the lot I sent before! Good luck with the MOT, I am sure you will not have a problem. If you do, get in touch as I have an email from VOSA about some of the problems with test stations and MUNGA's.

Have a look at a site called Luft46, this shows a lot of German helicopters. Many for use from Uboats, so were made to be easy to take apart etc.

Well, it looks like things are moving along well in MUNGAland. Good haul of spares, which should help to keep things going a lot longer. The jerry cans for the MUNGA, have large fillers. Someone did have a load, but i can't remember who at the moment! I hope to send out info to people today, so you should get something in the post shortly. Canvas hoods/doors, I have a chap in the process of getting the bits to make some. The hardest part is the large turn buttons. He has found a supplier in Germany, is taking delivery in the next week or so. Carry on MUNGAing!

David Sorry I did not get an email from you, I will email you for your address. Well the two stoke did get you that far, even in that state! I think I had better put some info in the pack, about how to do mre than head. The head gasket is the same as the Wartburg 353, the Barkas B1000, and other Auto Union cars etc. If you get stuck, I have a spare gasket to hand. I have found that if you drop the bottom end of the engine, not all the way. Gentle push one piston down at a time, and with a flap disc on an electric drill, you can remove the worse of the rust. If you take the whole crank out, you have to have three piston ring compresors to get the thing back in. And without the specical jiog, it's easy to snap a ring. Also make sure the seal rings at the crankshaft end are offset by 180 degrees to each other.

John You should not have a problem, if you can work with tinsale wire you can do anything! The lamps are single, as the stops are flashed to act as turn signal. If you put twin fil ones in, and have the tails on the lamps don't last long. Also, remember that you need have the lighting switch one postion to the left to get the turn lights, stops etc to work. The other odd thing with Dutch MUNGAs is that the heater fan and heater pump run when the start button is pushed. This was done to stop the pumps seizing, it's not a wiring fault.

Well, my lost tax disc saga is still on-going. As DVLA mis-addressed the replacement to me, it was delayed. The addres on my V5c is correct, but I am told that a new V5c is on the way "to correct the problem"! I can't see how if the post code is correct on the old V5c, how a new V5c will make any differance.

Dave If you can email me at andrewroberts.home@virgin.net whith your address, I will send you a diagram. John If you take the cover off very carefully, you will find the resistance wire has snapped. You will need to rap the parted ends with very fine wire, and solder both ends back. If you have a problem, email me and if you send the item to me I will repair for you. Take care when you put the wodden cover back on the tank, as it's easy to use screws which are too long and hole the tank. Also make sure you replace the felt on the straps, better than felt is very thin rubber.

Part of the problem with rail transport is tunnel size, cuttings curve, and station platform gaps. This is why some big items of industial kit in 50's were moved by road and not rail. US softskin logistics drivers, are not trained to repair anything. The same drivers, also don't get much infantry training. I was rold by an American major that his men were drivers, and not here to fight!

Dave I don't know of a simple way, but I will look at mine and see if something can be done. Yes, time does seem to make thing not fit anymore! I got my lightweights out the outher day I was issued with, I can only presume that the things have shrunk horribly since I left the army! Trouble is, I get back into things like MUNGA's early Land rovers etc, and i think I am 19 again. The body on the other hand, tells me i am not! But do enjoy your MUNGA, and keep in touch. I will see what I can dig out in the way of info for you.