Mk3iain

Or was it agreed earlier to make it easier(give them a push) for Germany to release Leopards...

Yes ether capsules, look a bit like Nespresso coffee capsules. Only ever needed them in the artic when down to -30 and below. 😳 Used in a lot of diesel vehicles, my Eager Beaver has one too. If you really need to you can just take the cap off and squirt a bit of easy start in to make a puddle and with the cap back on by pumping a few times it should reach the engine intake. Should not need it and I would not want to.

Oops, already done...

Better to keep it all closed up if using silica gel, an air current will just saturate the gel for no benefit. An enclosed space is best, maybe open it up once a week or so to swap bags around.

Possibly silica gel, if so it can be re-used, once dried out again. Any supply of silica gel should work and can be dried out in the oven or just when stored in a warm dry place. This kind of thing maybe. 2x 1kg Reusable Car Dehumidifier Condensation Moisture Damp Absorb Silica Gel 5037409111438 | eBay If you can get industrial quantities as used in containers I am sure it would be more cost effective...

I counted at least 60 in a shed at Witham's with part of the private collection, it was a few years ago, 2004 ish.

You mean the government of Britain surely! 😉 Part of Great Britain since 1707.

Facebook users only....

Does anyone know what the origin of the EB clutch housing is? Is it Perkins, Bedford or something else? The part number from the manual is 48446/20TT It is scored and could do with replacing and the flywheel needs skimming as well. Any recommendations for a machine shop in the North of Aberdeenshire? Many thanks Iain

Thanks Peter, I have a replacement motor now but you never know.

Ouch, that must have made a noise! I also lost the spring and plastic sleeve and on removing the flywheel removed evidence of maybe three sleeves and spring bits from its past... Also, a picture of the motor to compare with the removed one showing the difference, this one not needing the spacer.

I'll be calling around on Monday, I've two plates to reline now, the EB clutch and one from my Perentie. I had thought a standard LR v8 plate from a Range Rover etc would be ok but the spigot bush sticks out further on the Isuzu and the LR plate will not clear it. You can see the recess on the Perentie plate and the flat area on the LR plate, so unless someone knows or a suitable plate the old one will get relined. Included, a picture of the EB plate.

I exchanged the motor for around £300 and it turns out it was an early marine type and has now been replaced by a newer version that does not need the spacer. It also seems closer to the motor listed in the parts catalogue. Anyway, I've removed the clutch and flywheel to clean out the debris, change the clutch and check out the starter ring. Has anyone changed the clutch on one of these before? Can the (4 blade) plate be relined? Described as a "13 inch AS type". Borg and Beck, #54795TT The only number for the housing I have is, 48446/20TT Many thanks!

It is the short ribbon antenna for "manpack" and the Bob Marley for masts etc I'm not an expert but do have the manual and various antenna... I can get pictures if required.

Just a thought, it may help. When you have driven a few miles and checked next time. If the stick has moved, try removing it completely with the engine still running and put your finger over the hole to check for excessive pressure. It will be hot though and may spit at you... Better still get a volunteer to do it for you. 🙄

Yes, as used mainly in the avionics of the time, I can't remember if the power flying control units (Victor) were a/c or dc ?

Certainly a lot of the a/c I trained on in the 70s would have rotary invertors, they were responsible for a lot of the racket when dc power came on. That would include Argosy, Victor, Shackleton etc. It was a wee while ago....

Thanks John !

Watch out, wee Jimmy has (crazy)ambitions... It could be the Cornish if seen from another angle ? 😏

Thanks John, I may have sourced a pinion but so far the return spring and sleeve are proving hard to find as you noted. If your local guy can source the parts I'll likely buy them. I will have a go at stripping it down in case of any other problems. I may end up sending it down, carriage should not be a problem. Hopefully...

I've had a good look as suggested and all the teeth are about 1- 2 mm worn at the near tip and all have a burr in that area. I think a dressing with some emery cloth when I pull the clutch should see it Ok. I hope. Needs a good clean out as well.

John It is indeed a 4.236 as used in many applications including tractors. The classic tractor world is thriving, I once counted I think around 13 different tractor magazines in a local shop a few years ago. This specific starter is available new for around £7-800, I am sure the last repair was about 1/4 of that for a new shaft etc. It was a few years ago. Price is most surely driven by availability and it is sad to hear of scarcity of parts. This type of starter is reasonably common you would think there would be a load of parts available. In the classic car world there are plenty of new alternatives for many cars including modern high torque, maybe ours is too small a market ?

The return spring and a plastic sleeve were in bits and lots of swarf. I did notice the nuts holding it in position were not tight, not exactly loose but they could have allowed movement and the subsequent damage. Wish I could remember who fixed it last time...

A couple of pictures to illustrate...