cosrec

Posted Saturday at 06:14 PM Thanks for your reply’s. yes the vehicle is up and running and no noise when you depress the brake pedal Every body seems to be overlooking the fact there is no noise when pressing pedal so I would suggest no air getting to it

is the vehicle up and running or stood. does pedal make any noises when you press it.

Don't forget you only have a short while to get new quilts as them continental ones stop working after 29th march l

I assume if you have to ask you might get someone else to do it

on leaving school my dad took me and a lad who worked for us to the army and navy stores in Goole to get some work boots. I bought a pair of unissued pair of leather soled hob nailed boots for 8 shillings john bought a pair of US issued rubber soled boots that looked wellie length for 5 shillings next day we cut about 8 inch of Johns boots with angle grinder he was still wearing them years later. mine fell to bits with in a month soaking up oil. Needless to say dad gave me a ten bob note and told me to go buy 2 pair like johns this was about 1970

seem to remember but not 100% sure in front of steer box on depth of chassis and believe some digits obscured by that big plate with two holes in also on a riveted plate under passenger side wheel arch on chassis although this barely readable 40 years ago

only one i owned was a dream to drive one thing that springs to mind is if if its ever been towed has prop shaft been split and not been put back together with spicer joints aligned correctlly

as an aside those big lumps of wood that engine is sat on where ciu up then sawn up then set into a fire place as shelves in a fire place in a house i lived in polished wax up nice

that exactly as the one i fitted arrived in a crate the previous two were laid on a pallet.both crack side down. i know you said your sticking with current arrangement but if you should ever change your mind the way to do it is take cab off then take rear bulk head off with air filters then lift engine and gearbox out and split on floor. The clutch cover on engine has unusual pull clutch arrangement hat needs access to four points on dis assembly top and bottom covers also rear engine mounts have to come of putting back together every thing pushes back together if you ever decide to fit a replacement engone with standard clutch it is dead simple to do

got a minter 305 rolls sat in chassis can be heard driven around running any trial

try asking someone who does injector pumps for a living rather than people who have workshop manuals for army vehicles

i dont know naff all about this set up but from memory that looks a a lot like the Rootes blower fitted to commer ts3 Quick Goggle confirmed Rootes still exist so may be worth a call. like a lot of things MOD it will have been an of of the shelf item adapted to fit

agree with attleej in one respect the engine was a very good one for its size far better than the RB81 and although it seems eye watering now it compared well with 14 ton Commer cattle truck a local haulier ran it had humber super snipe engine it. if it aint leaking internally i would stick with it. plus i know it aint multifuel but a little contaminated petrol wont hurt it. If you do decide to change for another or change to diesel have a few tips that that will save a lot of grief cursing and swearing.

from memory the problem with them was even with engine and rad drain cocks open about 4" of water was left in the block. some of the reconditioned spare motors were dynometer tested for oil pressure/compression. Others were bench tested filled with water. before being sprayed that light blue green colour. then crated. the water filled ones all cracked in storage in the winter of 67. the dealer who sold us our big ben opened 3 crates before he found a good one.

bison parts range from 175 too £300 for plate cover thrust bearing. price difference goes from diameter plate 320 ish mm 350 ish mm 390 ish mm. The trick is to avoid saying MOD army when ordering .99.5 % 0f army vehicles built since the late 60s use standard of the shelf components. eg air pots on fodens are bog standard type 22 but with virtually non obtainable fittings screwed in and a unique end cab. People also think the Rolls Royce engined diesels are exotic.parts are half price off a perkins dealer who built the engines anyway only difference is rocker covers and compresser and exotic screw in couplings even such things as tranfer boxes axles are made as of the shelf but tags are taken off so it becomes difficult to identify who made it Oh by the way i think the clutch you need is the one fitted to the daf 55 .

go into any decent heavy goods vehicle supplier say you want a clutch for a daf 45 when they ask for a chassis no shrug your shoulders they will supply you with something if it dont fit take it back with parts you want the will exchange. as for changing they are not that heavy or challenging to do i did one on my own at side of french motorway HGV Direct would be a start when when looking for a supplier

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1762306687164747&set=gm.1010904749060566&type=3 just nicked this of the web

am i correct the trailer was a command centre or missile carrier chassis that had a dolly with it to allow fifth wheel or draw bar operation my hobby is making 1/24 models and i have made models of every wrecker i have constructed in real life the Big ben was the only on i missed out would love line drawings as an aside 11 years ago i saw a BIG Ben in i believe army service in Sri Lanka. with a low loader carrying a tracked machine at 2 mph up a steep incline between Bentota and Kandy followed for 1/2 an hour

First of all it does indeed look as though you are making a good job of restoration. if you should ever decided to remove the cab eg to remove engine as long as you a means of lifting it vertically it is simplicity its self. the only things to detatch are the air pipe to wipers one wire to interior light and four mounting bolts put ratchet handbrake as near vertical as poss and lift straight up. This leaves a chassis that can be driven about. seats etc stay with chassis. May have put you off with winch. The winch is a fantastic piece of kit extremely power full plus smooth and controllable. i was trying to hint that if you use it and the chassis rears up do not try tethering it down with a crawler or some thing at front end it will damage the chassis big style (guess how i Know ?????) From memory the Big Ben was supplied in two forms. Artic with 3" ocilating fifth wheel chassis was very short at back end Rigid with troop caring body this was longer wheel base and had larger over hang at rear. From your pictures your truck is the longer one shortened over hang when converted in civilian life. if you have any more pictures of winch which is certainly been added after leaving army/raf service i will have some more tips. block had great success with a product called ?steel stick? and some friends supplied us with a paint on substance that was used in for sealing air craft fuel tanks as a backup Keep up the good work i for one would like see the old lady doing the rounds

a few little pointers (1) the vehicle you have was i believe never offered in a civilian version although the the name was applied to other versions (2) the back window is civilian conversion that was much required as the original three window with guards set up was absolutely useless (3) the engines were exceptionally prone to frost damage not just externally but internally about 5 inches up from where the sump bolted on to the point every one i saw sold at ruddington had a reconditioned engine sat on the back or assigned to in a crate along side (4) the winch i said in previous post could be a garwood is not but an ex martian recovery one or derivative. If it has been set up correctly it will completely gaffer or destroy the truck if you ever anchored it the same winch was fitted to latter versions of antar made in the newcastle area but forgotten the name it is a civillan conversion as non of the mod trucks ever had a winch fitted (5) they had a gear stick with 4 speed plus reverse behind this was a second gear lever with high low and pto on . To engage Pto you had to sort of two handed manovre lifting the rear of the stick with one and pulling back with the other to engage PTO the one i had usually ended having to jump on back undoing a tower assembly levering selectors back into place refitting then having another go Anyway best of luck if you can cope with no power steering they are an absolutely bullet proof piece of kit

Guess what the police do if they come across untaxed sorned vehicle that right they have it towed away by a local recovery agent no stipulation about how its done unless it has mechanical issues that affect it

Its a broken down vehicle full stop use what ever method you want

Only just seen this post. Interceptor quick read through your post only thing i can say is for every question you ask there are a 100 answers. But before you go any further do not commit to any training schemes as yet . until you have decided what route you are going to go down. They are regarded as a distress purchase by operators to enable experienced staff to go on jobs that certain clubs who pay shit rates demand paper certificates for.. As for all your other question i am quite willing to give advise on forum or on the phone. For a start the extension off a scammel will fit the EKA on a foden. As to which truck towing down road scammell local tractors etc odd vehicle etc Foden

wish there was a like box to tick on this forum

one only has to read the way the ad has been wrote to sense its a con from some nigerian gezzar or such like but who is based in holland or flemish speaking part of belgium