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Here is Clive Elliott's answer to the question, “If I want to use the original coil and ballast resistor system on the B60 with electronic ignition, what is the best way to wire it?” Bear in mind that there are only two wires to consider, the black and the red. The black is catered for as there is a wire already going from coil to distributor, so the only question here is where to route the red wire (+24V). Clive has kindly inspected his vehicles for me and come up with his own answer: I have been out doing a few pics for you, although I have three vehicles with B60s, it is amazing how memory fades a bit during the winter! I was forgetting that the ignition filter is separate & between the ballast resistor box & the coil. I feel it would be a tremendous bore in terms of access & time to feed through a cable from the 24+ input of the ballast box & around the system to end up in the distributor. I think it is far easier to feed the 24+ from the ignition switch output lead "R" to your module in the distributor. As these vehicles were intended for wading the ignition components are waterproofed, but are ventilated by circulation of air from the intake of the carburettor via two pipes in the distributor. Disconnection of the top air pipe would give a very convenient input for the 24+ feed for the module. A dark coloured wire joined to the "R" lead from the ignition switch is only a short distance where it could pass through a grommet pushed into the old ventilator hole to a connector to the module 24+ input. A purist could always use a screened cable from the distributor to ignition switch to make the conversion even more discrete. I enclose a typical B60 ignition diagram, which I have cleaned up & cut out other circuitry. Also labelled pictures My appetite is getting wetted to try it so please send me a unit then I could take some pics of it in situ. Regards Clive Elliott Thanks Clive. The next question, however, is “Do I RECOMMEND using the existing coil and ballast resistor?” This is a different question. I always recommend the solution that gives the best ignition performance and reliability. The answer to that is to get one of our high-performance 12v coils with a matched ballast resistor from us and hide it away somewhere, then simply run two wires from it to the distributor using the diagram previously posted. The ballast resistor stays in circuit all the time. You by-pass all the ancient and potentially troublesome wiring, filters etc. I do understand, however, that this solution is not for the purists, and Clive’s solution will work fine as long as the coil is in good order. Here we come to the tricky bit. The problem with using the existing coil is that it is probably old. No problem if it is new. However from an ignition performance point of view, old coils are bad news. You may like the idea of running with an old original coil, but bear in mind that it is almost certainly giving reduced performance, and at worst will let you down, even after you have spent good money on electronic ignition. My rule of thumb on any vehicle is to retain the old coil ONLY if the coil is near new or known good, AND you know that it is the correct type for the original application. If either of these criteria are not met, then I recommend replacing the coil. I hear the question, “How can you recommend using the high-performance coil with a ballast resistor, but not switching it in and out?” The switched ballast resistor is common on old cars from the 60’s onwards. It is NOT unique to the B60/B80 engine. We do electronic ignition for literally thousands of vehicles, and switched ballast resistors are common. Most are on 12v systems and switch down to either 6v or 9v for normal running, whereas the B60/B80 switches between 24v and 12v. You have to look at why it is there. The idea is to improve starting. However this is more of a problem with points than with electronic ignition. Fitting electronic ignition will itself greatly improve starting, so in many cases switching the ballast resistor out for starting is not necessary. However a word of caution here – do not keep the original coil and remove the ballast resistor entirely, as you are liable to cook the coil – you’ll be running permanently with 24v across a 12v coil, or 12v across a 6v coil, or whatever the vehicle in question uses. With 12v cars you can get rid of the coil and ballast resistor and simply fit a 12v coil of the correct resistance for the application, but of course this is not as easy with something like a B60 because 24v coils are not so readily available. Even if you could get one you would have to make sure that it is compatible in the application. Hence our recommendation to get a high-performance coil from us with matched ballast resistor so that you know you have got something compatible. So to sum up, if you are a purist, use Clive’s solution, but expect less than perfect performance if the coil and other parts are old. If you are not a purist and want to get the best reliability and performance from your new electronic ignition system, get one of our high-performance coils with matched ballast resistor, hide it somewhere and feed two wires as discreetly as you can to the distributor. I will be posting photos of a distributor with kit fitted shortly. Best regards to all Frank[/img]

Hi Clive. Thanks for the posting and the telephone conversation we had. Yes, our electronic ignition system caters for the ballast resistor set up. Our module has two wires coming from it. The black wire connects to the negative terminal of the coil. The red wire connects to a 24v switched source. The attached circuit diagram shows this. In this way the module is seeing 24v irrespective of the coil voltage. You can leave the ballast resistor switching intact. Indeed, I am sure it would work as well without the switching circuit, as long as the ballast resistor is left in place. This is because the function of the ballast resistor switching system is to improve starting when points are used, but the electronic ignition gives greatly improved starting in any case. You MUST, however, leave the ballast resistor in place, whether or not it is switched out (by-passed) during starting. As far as the nitty-gritty of the wiring is concerned, the only complication is the trunking through which the low tension wire is fed. You either have to feed wires through it, or strap one or two wires externally to the cable. You kindly agreed to look at your vehicle and phone me to discuss it, so that I can post advice on this later in the week. There is certainly one wire already inside the trunking that can be used. It would be best if the 24v could be picked up at a position upstream of any filters or similar devices, so that any faults there will not affect the 24v supply to the module. As I say, more on this later. The answer to your last question – yes – you can swap ignition systems between vehicles. The kits are easy to fit and remove. You would not have to reset the timing each time, if you did not move the distributor. If you took the distributor out, you would have reset the timing each time, but that is all. You can make crimp-type spade or bullet connections inside the distributor onto the module wires to facilitate quick disconnection and connection. More later in the week. Thanks and best regards Frank Jolley.

Hi. First of all, thanks, Jack, for asking me to come on the forum. I'll try to answer any technical questions as well as I can. Remember, I've been working on jeeps since 1971, including periods when (until recently) I have used my Willys MB as my everyday vehicle, and also as my company pickup truck. So reliability is what I know about - and the amazing thing about 60 odd-year-old jeeps is they ARE reliable if maintained well. Certain minor modifications help - this is where electronic ignition and alternator conversions come in. The same applies to any MV, although for practical reasons I wouldn't go to work every day in a GMC, for instance. But I am a firm believer that anyone who owns a jeep, or any MV or classic car for that matter, wants to ENJOY it. When the sun comes out in the summer, he wants to jump into his jeep and drive off somewhere, without the fiddling around to get it to start, and without worrying that he's going to break down while he's out. I’ve raised a new topic in MV Chatter, so please continue the thread by going there. Hope I can be of some help. Thanks for asking me, and best regards Frank Jolley, Jolley Engineering

Hi. Jack has kindly asked me to come on the forum and answer technical questions to the best of my ability, particularly regarding electronic ignition, alternator conversions and technical issues. I'll try to answer any technical questions as well as I can. I've been working on jeeps since 1971, including periods when (until recently) I have used my Willys MB as my everyday vehicle, and also as my company pickup truck. So reliability is what I know about - and the amazing thing about 60 odd-year-old jeeps is they ARE reliable if maintained well. Certain minor modifications help - this is where electronic ignition and alternator conversions come in. The same applies to any MV, although for practical reasons I wouldn't go to work every day in a GMC, for instance. But I am a firm believer that anyone who owns a jeep, or any MV or classic car for that matter, wants to ENJOY it. When the sun comes out in the summer, he wants to jump into his jeep and drive off somewhere, without the fiddling around to get it to start, and without worrying that he's going to break down while he's out. I've read through the postings in the previous topic, and take on board the point about information and prices. So in due course I'll be posting photos and prices for all the common MV electronic ignition kits on the forum and on our website http://www.classicheads.com. I’m also looking at on-line ordering. For any sales or customer-support questions, please direct them to me as private messages, but for any questions of general interest, please post them on the forum. Hope I can be of some help. Thanks for asking me, Jack, and best regards Frank Jolley Engineering

Hi. First of all, thanks, Jack, for asking me to come on the forum. I'll try to answer any technical questions as well as I can. Remember, I've been working on jeeps since 1971, including periods when (until recently) I have used my Willys MB as my everyday vehicle, and also as my company pickup truck. So reliability is what I know about - and the amazing thing about 60 odd-year-old jeeps is they ARE reliable if maintained well. Certain minor modifications help - this is where electronic ignition and alternator conversions come in. The same applies to any MV, although for practical reasons I wouldn't go to work every day in a GMC, for instance. But I am a firm believer that anyone who owns a jeep, or any MV or classic car for that matter, wants to ENJOY it. When the sun comes out in the summer, he wants to jump into his jeep and drive off somewhere, without the fiddling around to get it to start, and without worrying that he's going to break down while he's out. I've read through the postings on electronic ignition, and take on board the point about information and prices. So in due course I'll be posting photos and prices for all the common MV electronic ignition kits. For any sales or customer-support questions, please direct them to me privately, but for any questions of general interest, please post them privately. I’ve raised a new topic in MV Chatter, so please continue the thread by going there. Hope I can be of some help. Thanks for asking me, and best regards, Frank Jolley, Jolley Engineering

Hi Matt. Thanks for asking. No, we don't do Dodge transmissions or work on Dodges. Thanks Matt.

Hi. I'm Frank Jolley and I run Jolley Engineering. We design, manufacture and sell electronic ignition kits all MVs, including Jeeps, Dodges, GMCs, Chevies, Morris, Austin ........ you name it. If we don't already have an off-the-shelf kit, we can design one for you. We also do 12v alternator conversion kits for jeeps, GMCs and Dodges. Our website is http://www.classicheads.com, and email info@classic heads.com. I have had the same Willys MB for 35 years, which was my first car, and which I learned to drive in. Best regards Frank