Fugly

Here is my contribution. Remove the GC Pedal and fit a second accelerator pedal in its place . Operate the gear change with a hand lever instead of a pedal . ( A left hand lever ) Your dad could use his left foot to brake and accelerate. As he drives he selects the next gear (up or down) with his right hand , and when selected he operates the change lever with the left. Basically he would pull it back, releasing the brake band pressure , and allowing the change to occur. When it has changed he would allow the lever to return to its normal position. The lever could be quite long to overcome the significant pressure clamping the brake bands in the on position. Dont know if it would be legal on the road , but it would work safely for arenas. Once the correct gear has been selected it would be driven as normal. After all when you change gear on a manual car gearbox, you have to take your hand off the wheel so what's the difference? If you want to get complicated you could install a geared servo to operate the gear change lever at the gearbox end, energised by a button on the gear selector lever ? i.e. press the button to make the selected gearchange ?

Here is a picture of the gun, as you may read in the wanted section I am searching for Saladin Breech block and any parts off the firing mechanism, and the large sleeve/nut that holds the barrel in position. All help appreciated. Cash waiting.

I agree, put a statement in the listing confirming that this listing does not contravene any of ebays policies. I tried to sell a german helmet once , and someone reported it because it MIGHT (didn't) have a swastika on it. They dont look hard enough at listings before they remove them. BUT OF MORE CONCERN.... There is a practice where potential purchasers contact you with an offer to end the auction early, then when you refuse, they go away and report the item to ebay under some spurious claim. The item is quickly removed by ebay (without investigation) and the potential purchaser contacts you again with an offer..... And by that time you are so fed up with the whole thing you accept a silly offer rather than all the hassle.:undecided: I would relist it and dont listen if you get a silly offer , because it may come from the guy that reported the item to ebay !

Quick update - Have been granted a FAC . All things being equal the finished vehicle will be equipped with a live barrel.

Hi Todd If its any consolation , I am in the middle of restoring a saladin that has some very corroded areas - but what I keep on discovering is that underneath all the C**p there is solid metal. All the seized and rusty bits I dismantle are attached to good serviceable parts ( somewhere beneath) . The tin and sheetmetal parts may look awful right now, but when you strip them out and get back to the mountings, things improve. And then... after some shotblasting it gets even better! A few coats of primer and its almost as good as new. Take heart and keep up the good work ! P.S. Keep all your junked rusty bits as they may contain valuable mounts , brackets etc.

I only have experience with a ferret gearbox ( and I am certainly not an expert). My ferret was slipping in first and second gear, the bands were worn down to the rivet heads and causing the slip. I have attached a pic of the auto adjusters for the ferret when dismantled, and presume they work in a similar way, The more worn the band, the higher the threaded rod goes into the threaded collar at the top of the adjuster. Mine was worn is lower gears , and the threaded rod was higher on those collars prior to repair. Your threads appear about even, so it could suggest your bands are about evenly worn? It appears there is still some adjustment left in them. I hope this is good news to you , but don't just take my word for it. I relined some of my bands, as the higher gears were hardly worn . My ferret had had some corporate use so I think the lower gears were hammered, hence the wear. Hope this helps. If you do start stripping into the box please be careful because on the ferret gearbox there is a large spring which applies the pressure to the brake band. This pressure has to be relieved in accordance to the manuals. As I said I'm no expert so please get plenty of other advice. :nut:

Thanks Chaps - :-)

I don't have any welding gear and I need some fabrication work and a small amount of welding to be done. Attached is a picture of my Turret Basket from the Saladin. The Commanders hatch was pilfered from it some time ago and the rain got in, causing some localised rusting . The rest of the basket is in good condition, but this part needs a reapir section fabricating and welding to a good standard. I dont mind paying a reasonable amount. I am in Derbyshire, near Ashbourne . Any takers ? You can do the work at my place , or you can cut the rusty part out and take it away for fabrication? I know its a complicated section , but someone out there may be familiar with repairs to vesels etc. Failing that , anyome know where there are any NOS baskets ( Now that is a long shot !) . On the main photo , you can see the rusty section. the other picture shows the reverse.

MORE PICS Turret mounted on ex MOD weapons trailer , on some STURDY trestles !

A picture of the turret interior bow that it is going back together !

Hi Found a really interesting write up about Saladins being used in Oman between 1970 and 1975 to fight Rebels. I suspect mine was from that source , but if anyone is interested please click on this link, and look at the 2011 SAF association yearbook. The book can be read online and has a great story about the "Armoured Car Squadron" http://www.oman.org.uk/ Also should hold interest if you want to read about the SAS BATT unit that operated in Oman, and other British forces that went over there.

Hello Montie I have attached some scans from a B series manual . They may not be readable via this method, if you pm me with your email address I will try to email them direct. they relate to the fluid flywheel , not whole engine removal. My advice is to remove the engine entirely. Whilst its out service the fuel pump ( replace the diapraghms) it it has not already been done and replace any rubber hoses that are hard to get at when engine is in . Plus have a good look round the engine. Its Probably not as bigger task as you may think and it will ceratainly increase your knowledge on the vehicle. Also remember these engines are big but were designed to be removed reasonably quickly. I have several Rolls Royce engine manuals so will try to help. If you have access to a forklift thats half the battle won! flywheel.PDF

Trailer safely on my yard at home now - thanks for the advice. Its like new and is well worth the £150 plus fee's !

FOR ROVER8FFR I agree with everything paul said , and the course is straightforward and quite quick. Mine was over a weekend with about 6 hours instruction on a Saturday, then returned on Sunday morning for some revision followed by a multiple choice exam. The instruction was useful, and gives a good insight into technical aspects of how radios work. This should allow you to do some low power operating. I have a Clansman 320 backpack radio, which has the added bonus I can take it anywhere within reason. There is a lot of Clansman equipment available at the moment ( I picked my 320 up for £100) via Withams and it is an interesting hobby, which works well with the Military vehicle interest.:-D

Fair comment Paul ! I stand corrected And I presume that from that extract quoted its also against the regulation to install that type of equipment without a licence ? Anyway its worth mentioning that a foundation licence can be easily achieved without a huge cost , only needs a little study and is highly recommended for HMV enthusiasts to breathe a little more life into their vehicles.

Just a thought, (and didn't know where else to post it) but all you chaps out there with various military radio kit fitted to your vehicles, have you ever considered trying it out? Eg - if you have an HF set like the clansman 321 you can tune in and listen with impunity. that bits legal. You wont need aerial tuner, just a reasonable aerial, something that will receive. Just dont transmit under any circumstances. At around 14.176 Mhz you can listen to conversations from all over europe, (sometimes further afield). If it sparks an interest, you can undertake a basic radio licence exam for about £40.00. Yes its geeky , but facinating. I have a licence and recently sat in my ferret talking to a guy in Canada. Makes great background noise if you have your vehicle on display. PLEASE REMEMBER :DO NOT TRANSMIT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES UNLESS YOU ARE LICENCED BY OFCOM.

Hi Chris Maybe if you try converting the MM measurement to an old imperial measurement and search again you may find more options? its just a thought and hope it helps ! jim

Luckily I have now been informed that these low deck trailers weigh about 640 KG , which sounds about right . Now I need a measurement of the axle width (to outside of wheels) because my trailer is 1.65 M wide and I want to put this trailer onto mine without slipping off the side. So I suppose you know whats coming next ,..... could you nip out to your paddock with a tape measure please ? :-) Will pm you about this , am really grateful for your help ! Jim

Thanks anyway

Can someone please ID this trailer and tell me its UNLADEN weight. I know it will carry about 3.5 tonnes and is NOT suitable for road use. I have bought one and need to know how heavy it is to transport. All help appreciated !!

Saw this listing , may help someone with a wireless truck / radio truck? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WW11-WIRELESS-TRUCK-FURNITURE-LOCKERS-ETC-No-19-SET-/280655971839?pt=UK_Collectables_Militaria_LE&hash=item41586645ff regards Jim

I have found numerous .30 shellcases in the hull of the Saladin, and expect to find more empty cases when I finish stripping it. The FMR sounds very probable, and I have heard about these before. My friend is an ex 10th Hussar and he told me about these ranges , but I never made the link to the .22 connection until you mentioned it. Thanks for the info.:-)

With reference to Alvis Hull Numbers Just to throw another possibility - I was inside the Saladin last night having a look round it an contemplating my next move in the restoration process. On the side of the steering assembly, there is a number stamped into the metalwork. This number matches my hull number 1063. Maybe a coincidence ? I checked my escape hatches, and mine say NS/ and O/S but they have two different numbers on them. Given that mine was abroad with non english crew there is a high chance that the hatches became mixed up. I seem to remember that one of the numbers is 1041 , which is close enough to 1063 to maybe be from the same build sequence? Also found a .22 bullet trapped behind some conduit. Odd........ Anyoine else have a hull number stamped into the steering ?

Thanks very much !

Thanks everyone !