tankdiver

Yes Its a pain I am at present dealing with the worst bleed of brakes that I have ever done the last one was in 1970 on a ford 100E that took a whole week to sort out . Fortunate for the customer we did not charge all the time we left the vehicle for another week and returned to it with the intention of going through the procedure again and found the system had bled out the air by itself. At present I canl not get fluid to the cylinders and I am at present trying several methods to achieve this .tomorrow is another day. Laurence

I have worked on and taught vehicles for over 50 years and have just found a toothbrush excellent for small parts greasing used them for cleaning its a cheap great tool Laurence

Thanks for the reply. The white grease was probably a rubberized grease used on the brakes, we used them on brakes in the 60/70s. It was good stuff and lubricated the cylinders .I think I am making some progress this weak spring allowed the brake to be slightly applied and when the handbrake was adjusted it was allowing it to travel to far. Amazing the cylinders are in excellent condition. The pistons were stiff at first but brake fluid lubrication and moving them back in the cylinder with a G clamp freed them and although the rubbers were not scored I replaced them This Ferret does not have the inspection as all of my 6 other ferrets 4 of which I changed the pipes with the engine in . A bit of an annoying blow.The other one I am restoring was easy to replace the pipes through this inspection hole . There was a good bit of equipment I was given by my wife if it would come in handy and it was a small brush for cleaning ovens like a toothbrush I found it fantastic for lubricating all the metal [not hydraulic cylinder] actuators and rubbing points it got into places better than putting copper on the end of a screwdriver.Now it is part of my tool kit.

thanks for the reply Richard I find that a hit with the copper hammer helps the initial freeing of the brake binding on the drum So far I have replaced all the cylinder rubbers , lubricated all the handbrake cables ,freed a sticking actuator in the drum , sorted out a week spring on the floor for the foot pedal and replaced the pedal bars on the floor holding the pedal. I am about to start the master cylinder and while I am on the brakes I will replace all the flexible hoses and metal pipes. With the pipes for those that have not done them they can be done with the engine and gear box in place. This is done by lifting the securing tabs on all the pipes undoing the brake nuts, removing the angled joint that the flexible pipe is secured to on the rear. This is done with a pair of stilsons on the round nut then push the angled pipe through the Armour. Then pull the old pipe through the inspection hole with the new pipe attached ,remove the angle joint fit it to the new pipe that is also pulled through the inspection hole. I think I did all the pipes in a couple of hours much quicker than an engine removal so I hope this will sort out any niggling problems

I have pulled the vehicle into the workshop and will do a full inspection of all the brakes and fit new seals and pipes at the same time. It was supposed to have been done by the previous owner .

Brake adjusters are all working and lock up the brakes .I fully adjusted the brakes and centalised them by hitting the brum with a copper hammer . On other 50s vehicles they used a brake balancing bar but this is an army vehicle ////

Ferret brake are poor at any time. As an ex mechanic I have worked on HGV PLANT and cars I have had several ferrets and done the brakes on all of them but this one is really playing me up. The brakes had sticking wheel cylinders on one side the other side the wheel was not working at all, so an easy solution get the cylinders off and free the piston . This done, then applied the brake to check brake balance and the two brackets that hold the shaft that the foot pedal move on just broke and the pedal went straight to the floor. More work I fabricated a couple as no one seemed to have any due to the metal fatigue 8 hr later a couple of stronger steel ones fitted .Never had this problem before Next poor hand brake first adjust all wheels, then adjust cables. I disconnected all the cables and adjusted each one and then tried to finely balance them all . This is not as easy on this Ferret as after hours of checking the balance I can get one rear fully working ,fronts just touching and the other rear considering operating .All the cylinders and linkage is ok has any other members had a problem with the hand brake not balancing Laurence

When fitting a new diaphragm ensure that the diaphragm is level by operating the cam lever against the spring then screw the screws tight .This will stop the diaphragm being put under undue stress and later causing a tear . The trouble with the mechanical fuel pumps on vehicles is when the diaphragm is damaged it leaks into the oil in the sump causing oil to be thinned so I tend to favor an electric pump .Another set of advantages of this is the vehicle starts up straight away and the pump makes a noise when fuel is almost gone .

This about DE-acts not the EU as one of the members thinks . perhaps I could have worded it better

Now that we are not in the E U what is the the position on de-activated weapons in ENGLAND Also what is the position on smoke launches do they require a certificate or are they not classed as a weapon do replica gun have a problem?

Hi Having over the years replaced points and getting condensers that fail and at times self heal I am now considering going against basic ignition and fitting electronic ignition to my both of my Ferrets and to both of my champs. I know there is companies out there that will do electronic ignition .has anyone got a good recommendation for the B60 and b40 engine and how much did it cost . Another question is with the modern fuel and improved ignition now what has people found is the best ignition timing Both the ferrets and Champs are running great having fitted new leads distributors plugs and modifying the exhaust manifold but I know they can be improved and save fuel and increase performance hense the reason for electronic ignition

Anyone interested in coming to Wilton Super and classic Cars was there last year :-Din June with CVRW Fox Ferret AND champ was a good couple of days .

Has the pictures helped to make a new system?:cool2::cool2::cool2:

THis is the format that I made for the last ferret using the material I had eg cut a co2 gas cylinder and welded two flange plates to the square box pipes and then welded them to the onto the cut down cylinder . By making a 90 degree pipe with a exhaust flange and coupling it to the stainless flexible joint and it works a treat. The old co2 welding cylinder alows the gas to expand allowing a quieter and quick exit of the gases to the exhaust. it just needs painting hope this helps

it is all registed with the DVLA now and I am in the middle of an extensive restoration .I have got the engine running new distributor cap,plugs leads condenser, manufactured exhaust and manifold brakes sorted all new front and rear copper pipes cylinders stripped and free internals ,stripped out fuel tank cleaned and now free of gum now to stating on the electrics and body + re manufactured bins and cast a data plate for this new one . Winter project. thanks for advice for registration

Hi backfiring on over run is Weaking of the mixture or exhaust leak the latter is most likely .I found new expansion tubes helped [ I have some of these] but from the exhaust the manifold I completely manufactured a new system with a small modern flexable joint The vehicle is totally transformed IT IS SO QUITE and is faster I now have done all my ferrets its also cheaper on fuel. NOTE A FLEXIBLE JOINT MUST BE FITTED due to engine torque will snap the manifold when I did an ac cobra years ago I took it for a run as it had a noisy exhaust I backed off the throttle when passing a lady with small dog The resulting bang sent the dog into vertical take off and a glare that froze steel from the woman

I took a CVRW fox ,Champ,and one of my ferrets to this show in may/june and found it a good show. They will be putting one on next year and hope to get more military vehicles there .Most of us like cars check out wilton super cars.Once I find out dates I will post it. I will take two ferrets and the champ next year as I have sold the Fox

RHiscock@wiltonhouse.com 6/7 june If anyone is also interested with bringing vehicles to the super car show at WILTON HOUSE just book with RHiscock@wiltonhouse.com hope to see some of you there

I have to admire your skills on the gearbox . I can and have done a great deal on rebuilds and teach the subject so to say well done is rare and I would only do if I was very desperate best regards Laurence FOX CVRW 2x mk2/3 ferrets 2x Austin champs ac cobra

thanks for the reply I thought that was the chassis number is the 4 the month and 58 the year?

thanks Andy I will give it a go

Thanks Robin for the reply I know Withams take the army number off the vehicles now and this causes a problem with civilian registration I may just send the small data plate number and engine number to DVLA and hope to get registration for it I may have found a very faint part registration number but the contract number is different to the small welded plate sorting out the mechanics and body on the vehicles is more satisfying

Seems a good price as armour is getting expensive I have a CVRT Fox two mk 2/3 Ferrets and two Austin Champs .The cost of armour is outstripping the rise in price of other vehicles . Good luck with importing as it can be stressful

I am restoring another ferret but there is no army registration number . It does have a number 1 377 4 58 where the data plate should be I have tried the tank museum they only deal with vehicle registrations and I asked if they would let me do some research but they will not let me look at the cards. I have been told that the first number is the contract number the 4 is the month and the 58 is the year Pat Ware book does not list this contract number so I am finding it a little hard to find this vehicle can anyone point me in a direction to go I am wanting o get a civilan registration and to find its history

thanks Tim I will look at my old carb to see it has the mod again thanks