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Everything posted by tankdiver

  1. You are quite right Richard I think it cleansed all the crankcase and was just about to get to the sludge that dropped into the sump judging by the strainer pick up . It will be interesting to get to the filter at a later date to see how full of sludge there is. I am looking forward to getting it running again with good clean oil and hope all the oil galleries are clear .I will give them a good blast with the air line. I think this engine has had little running due to its internal. condensation It will get a good run when its finished regards Laurence
  2. I have just started on the B40 engine with the intention of a rebuild . On taken off the rocker cover the inside was spotless and on one of the nuts inside had some condensation rust. On removal of the sump inside the lower crankcase was very clean { SPOTLESS } as if it had been petrol washed the sump had clean sides but in the base was about a litre of thick sludge, that covered the bottom of the sump pan and had not come out when the engine was drained. Further examination of the crankcase and bearings showed good bearing surface on both the main and big ends. The con rods had condensation rust on them which was easily removed with a petrol soaked rag. Pondering the clean engine with good B /end & main bearings I came to the assumption that the engine had been overhauled and a detergent oil was used which totally removed all of the old sediment present and dropping it in the base of the sump. This reminded me of engine failures in the sixties when the detergent oils were introduced sludge blocked the intake gauze and starved the bearings. Again pondering the removal of the oil it did not remove the sludge , so now when I do engine oil removal after I will refillI and put a mixture of petrol oil and allow to stand then drain the sump again to remove any deposits of sludge, Regarding the engine I will replace the big end bearings as these take the most wear but retain the original main bearings. I must be a little out dated with the cost of bearings as they were over 3 times the amount estimated I use to pay £50- £80 max for big end bearings and for todays prices I would have had a regrind shaft and all bearings throwing in. All they are is a mildsteel shell with white metal on it.
  3. some more pictures of the build .The engine and gearbox is now out ready to be overhauled and the engine bay is resprayed
  4. Some time ago I purchased an Austin Champ for spares. After a full inspection the floors,lower panels, arches were needing a total reconstruction .The chassis was in good condition and the engine ran so I decided to repair it as a last project , to take 2or 3 years. I am in the second year and have completed the floors in heavy 16 gauge steel mad new body panels in 18 gauge steel rather than the thinner 20 gauge steel. I have been surprised several times on the condition of the mechanics as the body was extremely poor and the vehicle looked a dog. The fuel tank was like new suspension , steering etc were good and easy to restore only requiring rubber gaiters The rear axle I replaced the crown wheel and pinion with a modern one having a better grade steel . At present the underbody suspensions, diffs, steering , new brake shoe and cylinders have been done . A new brake master cylinder and brake pipes are to be fitted then internal work electrics and body work to be completed. I will attach more picture and updates as it progresses
  5. Hi Nick Its a lot of work just actually getting to the props and then that stupid brake adjuster ??? I think some army drivers forgot to take the handbrake off as they were often done. Its a good brake when adjusted correct. The polecat is a lot more stable than my Fox was and is faster . I still have Raden Shells for the fox eg steel 30mm and I think titanium ones from helicopters they are green to brass looking if you are interested. I also have tinwork covering the propshafts etc Regards Laurence
  6. If you want to register it .save time and go to champ owners club they are great Jerry Toms did mine and was amazing had it done in a Jiff. The DVLA will have you going around in circles as I have found to my cost. Laurence
  7. Regarding the red nuts if they are taken off with even a little air in them air in them it may kill you . when I was teaching mechanics I ,used a picture from Dunlop tyres on the imprint of death which was a tyre fitter blasted into the ceiling of the workshop when not using a cage. So be careful when working on tyres even push bikes. Laurence
  8. Fitting the inserts for run flats can be a hard chore i had to do two on a ferret which took a whole morning . It may take a little less time for a younger guy as I was in my 70s at that time. Hope I dont have to do them again Laurence Richard I found the method on fitting the rubber inserts the same as you did after several attempts but they are an awkward lump Laurence
  9. Fitting the inserts for run flats can be a hard chore i had to do two on a ferret which took a whole morning . It may take a little less time for a younger guy as I was in my 70s at that time. Hope I dont have to do them again Laurence
  10. Getting it registered can be a chore best get help from a club eg MVT or the DVLA will send you round the houses. Laurence
  11. Thanks Nick I am at present doing a Austin Champ stripping every thing off it , restoring and welding ,it long job and into its second year. In the summer I will restart the polecat and ferret ready for shows
  12. Bureaucrats love working in circles to cause confusion and to keep their jobs. Just look at Brexit . I no longer have deacts only replicas but the law on them is a little stupid to say the least. Its hard enough keeping up with there stupid decisions on our hobby. I understand that if you belong to a history group eg MVT then the replicas dont need to be painted a bright colour is this correct
  13. £45 pounds an hr is very cheap my local garage is over £100 an hr. Working on these vehicles are harder than cars and if you cannot do the repairs and maintenance yourself then it going to be costly .I hope you find a good repairer at a good rate.
  14. Just on the finish line only the tin work and seat to go in . I am always amazed at how the motor vehicle industry was in the 1950 to the 1980 there was a lack of good design. Having said that there was some brilliant changes ;- Disc brakes ' independent suspension. engine and suspension subframes, power brakes and even flasher indicators, so thing have progressed. I started my motor apprenticeship in the early 1960 so have experienced lots of changes in the trade. I became a Lecture in motor vehicle and learned a great deal but as colleges did not allow us to keep up with advances in the trade my 5th year students were outstripping my Knowledge so I took early retirement and bought various military vehicles to have fun in bringing them back to life. Actually doing the hand brake was fidelity but OK the hard part is getting to it
  15. Just started the replacement of the shoes on the transmission brake on the FOX POLECAT To replace them :-take out seat ,undo transmission plates / covers , remove cotter pin and floor bracket on the forward reverse .. If a handbrake is present undo prop shaft nuts, remove 15/16 nut on the hub brake band. remove hub/ brake drum , this may be difficult and a puller may be required once out remove brake bands and replace. Sounds simple but 7hrs in a small space to remove is another matter and poor design + small clips/nuts for the mechanic causes longer time in a small space and for a 70 year old the old joints are stiff. I will need to let s With the poor design on removing the cotter it would not clear the front floor plate by 10mm so the front plate had to be disconnected to allow clearance. The brake hub would not clear the propshaft so the rear panel also needed to be removed to allow clearance for the hub to miss the propshaft just a litle thought would save a lot of time Looking at the brake failure I think the shoes have stuck on the drum and pulled the linings off. This vehicle has been stored for years in Museums and private collections and has only done 134 miles when I got it so it is almost new. but has had small issues to get it road legal and an epic sarga for registration A point when parking our vehicle over winter is to chock the wheels and leave the brakes off Well tomorrow I will build the hand brake up then complete the other side Sorry that the pictures have not come out in order
  16. Have fun I think the Green Goddess is needed to put out your fumes
  17. Dont we love the DVLA . Next time I have to register I first will buy a Green Goddess to put out my fumes
  18. Generally give way to the right was as the way I was taught in the middle sixties seems sensible otherwise chaos will occur There are different rules abroad
  19. Some people are so impatient .I had an encounter with such a person pulling out in front of me from a minor road . I was in a Ferret he was in an escort. You know the result the ferret made a nice ridge dent over his boot. He did not stop but sped off with me shaking my fist in the hatch .For someone that needed to get in front of an army vehicle there are consequence,s for there actions. Good job it was not a 60 tonne vehicle.
  20. Johann you must have got the monkey on the documents details
  21. Yes number plates need doc and a driver licence or other proof of ID
  22. Hi Lance Yes early on in the DVLA saga I spoke to the DVLA on the first rejection the same as you on age of the vehicle but it was not successful .I suppose if you talk to the monkey or the organ grinder is the key . I have today got the new historic number plate plates for the CVRW and dug out the papers for the champ plates which is being restored . With the champ they sent out a number plate Authorisation Certificate V948 .This is what has confused me and it was this document I was waiting for they must have changed there system. Regarding registration now it is so much harder to obtain needing loads of information , clubs to be involved, NOVA certificates and more than one attempt. Apart from several years ago when I bought the first ferret and Champ and I have had a few others since the DVLA have made it harder to register . The best club that helped me was the Champ owners club with Gerry Toms they took an interest in getting another Champ on the road and took on the DVLA after my first rejection. A BIG thanks to them and NOVA who were very efficient and helpful.
  23. Deeeer In the past they sent a separate document for number plates . V5C is the registration document and now the only one for number plates DVLA is rubbing off on me.
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