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BRDM Driver

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BRDM Driver last won the day on August 7 2018

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About BRDM Driver

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    Dorset, UK.

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  1. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    Yes, I just looked at the pics and can see what you mean, but having seen what Jon can do.....
  2. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    I assumed tank track is steel and not cast iron? It would be interesting to see if CVRT track could be modified or dressed up to look like Panzer track. There is an endless supply of CVRT track with worn out pads...
  3. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    A quick google found Blackwood Engineering, who use chinese foundrys. They are in Aberbeeg, Gwent . They can cast steel as well as iron and aluminum. No idea what cost you'd be looking at, but the trick would be to get some other restorers interested and get a decent order size. A thousand links for example....
  4. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    My experience was with Aluminium die casting for a non-tank related product. Tooling is usually eye watering! China will do it for a LOT less. There also places in the UK that may do a modest run of sand cast parts. It would be worth having a google to see if there is a foundary near you. We have a small foundry down here in Dorset that does Steam engine parts etc, mainly cast iron and aluminium though. The Weald foundation got thier Renault FT track links made - they would be able to point you to someone too. If you can find some other restorers that would be interested in repro track, you might be able to get a decent size order together. (maybe try Bruce Crompton). Dealing with China is not easy. You really need to go there. But they can make anything as long as you want a container full! The other option is to find a UK based foundry that's already farming work out to a trusted chinese plant.
  5. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    Brilliant work! You can see the internal segments on the original wheel, so yours looks 100% What are your plans for track? I wonder what the costs would be to get repro track made in China. From my experience, with aluminium castings, about a 1/10th the cost of UK, likewise with tooling costs. If you did your own finishing and machining even cheaper...
  6. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    I hope no one sold you that, saying it was a CVRT gearbox! What's your plans for a gearbox? Going for a full 432 setup?
  7. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    I have some lumps of steel like that... 3 house moves... one day their true purpose will be revealed! I wonder how long I will keep old CVRT tracklinks.... Looking forward to the next installment! If you're ever down at the Tank Museum, give us a shout!
  8. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    Depends how fast you want to go. The other option is go hydraulic motors from an excavator. Much simpler but slow. If Andy Baker can't sort you out for the right price, yet another option is to buy a Samaritan/Spartan sell off the wheels and tracks and anything else you don't need, takeout the running gear and weigh in the hull for scrap. There's also a 432 just come on ebay for a fairly modest amount, at the moment. The Stug builders seem to use 432 running gear. Good power, lower speed compared to CVRT.
  9. BRDM Driver

    Panzer 2 turret

    What are you planning for transmission and steering? I wondered if you were just going to drop in a complete CVRT engine and running gear? 432 engine and running gear might be bit too big?
  10. BRDM Driver

    cvrt track change

    Well despite being short changed on one set of track by 2 links, I managed to change both sides in a day, single handed! I followed Terry's plan of taking off 10-12 links at a time as they come off the top of the sprocket. It does take a bit longer but the track is more manageable single handed. First side took 5 hours, but that did include getting all the right tools sorted out and teaching the misses how to drive forward and backward slowly! (her first time even getting in it bless her!) Second side took 2 hours 15 mins! Not too bad. All toes and fingers accounted for. Tips for anyone else doing this, while it's fresh in my mind: The track clamp is a total bas*ard and will drop off at the slightest provocation even when you think it is on tight. Don't leave anything you value under it (feet, hands etc). In fact I ended up chocking it up underneath to keep it in place as I tightened it. It's not only dangerous, as it's heavy, it's really annoying when you get close to getting the links together and it suddenly just drops off and you have to start again. Make sure you have the proper track pin drift holder and 2 drifts. The short one with the head on and the long one that's pointy. Use the pointy one to help align the track bushes when putting the track pins back in. Learn the exact angle you need to flex the links to get the pins in. It's not as much as you think (13 degrees) so if you go too far they will not go in. When bringing the track together with the clamp, don't clamp it too hard. There has to be a gap of about 2mm so the bushes align properly. If a track pin is hard to get in or out, check the track clamp tightness is just right and that the links are not in line (13 degrees kink). You'll need a decent breaker bar to wind in the track clamp. I wouldn't recommend using any sort of power/air tool to do that as you need to feel if the track links are binding. A battery drill with a socket drive on does make taking up the slack quicker. Sometimes the centres of the bushes can be a little proud and will catch on the track links as you bring the links together so you need to get in there and tap them on the edge gently to get the links to come together. Make sure you have a lot of grease. The tensioners take quite a lot to go from empty to half full. Watch your arms/hands when releasing the tensioner ram grease. The ram can stick and then suddenly collapse bringing the top run of track down onto the wheels suddenly. I found some 432 track clamps useful for joining the old track to the new track as they work on either side of the track (pad or horn side) whereas the CVRT clamp only works on the outside (pad side) of the track. So bringing together track that laying flat with it is a PITA. Get at least 6 lengths of 4x2 and stack them three high on either side of the new track horns as you spool the old track off. They will allow the old track to ride over the new track and not get caught up. Otherwise you have to support the old track as it comes off over the sprocket and it gets heavy after 5 links!
  11. BRDM Driver

    cvrt track change

    So just out of interest how many links should there be on a Scorpion? The old track has 78 and the adjuster was close to end of travel. The new track, which I have just unrolled and checked has only 76 links.... The user manual declines to pick a number due to 'manufacturing tolerances'
  12. BRDM Driver

    cvrt track change

    Hi Terry, So the new track is joined to the old track on the end that's flat on road. When you drive forward, what do you do with the other split end of the old track? It's going to want to collect at the front if it's still engaged with the sprocket?
  13. BRDM Driver

    cvrt track change

    I'm sure this has been asked before, but I could only find photos of a track change while the wheels were off... So procedure is: Park with a good 1-2 vehicle lengths of space behind. Split track on one side at front, between bottom of sprocket and road. Drive forward off of track and allow lose track to run back over wheels. Old track will now be behind vehicle. Replace old track with new track. Drive back onto new track until vehicle is back in original position. Use sprocket and rope to winch other end of track back over idler and wheel until it engages with sprocket. Use track clamp to bring ends together and drive in pin. Repeat for other side. Always keep an eye out for mudflaps getting caught up in the track! Does that sound right? Should the track tension be relaxed first?
  14. BRDM Driver

    H test pointers

    Passed today. First go was at Babcocks (Abro) carpark and test track and the Abbot (god bless it's little steel tracks) decided to lose reverse half way into the test while nose in against a set of bollards... So thank you, who ever put the gear selector linkage back together without locking tab washers, it was very helpful... NOT! 2 hours of burnt hands eventually managed to get a bit of wire through the selector linkage fork and back off from thebollards, but we had to abandon the test. Got home and found the bolt in the bottom of the hull with a magnet on a stick. Today we did the test out on the open roads and sailed through, no problem. All done within a mile of home. Regarding reversing, the examiner is only looking to make sure you are slow, steady and above all safe. We did explain that under normal circumstances my commander would be checking behind but for the test, I would be using mirrors and checking over my shoulder. He seemed happy with that. The examiner could see that I can do a 3 point turn on the drive without hitting anything and I did another during the test on the road. We also did parking at the side of the road, emergency stop, 2 tee junctions, 2 left hand junctions. Interesting that my usual commander (ex gunnery instructor) is always telling me to 'watch me' not the mirrors when directing me when we are maneuvering where as for the H test you have to drive solo and use mirrors etc which is a no no in the Army. So if you have your own vehicle, the test costs £62 and as long as you don't have a mechanical malfunction, that's it!
  15. BRDM Driver

    FV430 periscopes

    Anyone got a good source for FV430 series drivers periscope and commanders periscopes? (that don't cost a mint!) To go in an Abbot.
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