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BenHawkins last won the day on January 1 2019

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  1. Thanks, I seem to remember more of my schoolboy french than I thought as I can understand a quite a bit of that without google translate. The Solex is really well documented so once I have confirmed the bore and stroke it should be quite easy to set the carburettor up correctly.
  2. Yesterday morning we had a drive down to Somerset; setting off early to avoid the queue of caravans heading south now they are allowed to stay over night. We spent five hours picking through piles of cart and carriage ironwork in an attempt to find all the remaining parts from the long dismantled Lyons tea van. It was moderately successful as we came back with a boot full of iron for this and some other projects. Am I a rustaholic, or do I just think I am? Anyway, it is not a complete set so I will continue to build my blacksmiths shop. During the week I drilled the two halves of the header tank pattern so I could fit the alignment dowels. This morning I marked the location for the filler and drilled a 20mm hole to locate the 3D printed filler neck and core print. After the filler neck halves were glued and screwed in place a bit of filler was used to blend them in and cover the screw heads before I gave them a coat of bondaprimer.
  3. Thanks for all the help with the WO stamping. Looking through the parts book it would appear the Thornycroft T4 was fitted with a Solex carburettor (there is no text to say that but I don't think there were any carburettors that looked similar). After a little bit of research it would appear that one from 1914 should have a barrel throttle rather than a butterfly. There was one on eBay last week the right size for the Coventry Simplex engine so I bid on it. It does not seem anyone else is really looking for one as it cost me a little over 10 pounds which seems cheap for an Edwardian bronze carburettor. The tickler button and spring is missing, and it does not have the optional choke but does have the float, jets etc. If only everything was that easy to find.
  4. These patterns have been given a couple of coats of paint and will need polishing when the patterncoat has hardened. I have added 3mm of ply to each stack of MDF for the header tank pattern to make up the thickness. I then drilled holes for dowels to line the two halves up.
  5. Before the rain set in today we were able to unload the generating set from the trailer. Whilst applying plusgas everywhere I came across these stampings of the broad arrow with WO. Obviously I have seen this with WD on many occasions but I am sure someone on HMVF can explain the why this was stamped WO instead. The rocker cover has four Rotherhams of Coventry flip top oilers but only one has the lid so I was concerned the rocker chamber might be full of rust. To my surprise the oil I applied last week seems to have done the job and I was able to loosen the thumb knob that secures the rocker cover. Although it is obvious that some water has made it in through the three faulty oilers there is still only light corrosion so I am sure the rockers will free off
  6. Thanks Andy, Perhaps I am better off not knowing the hammer price but I am quite happy with my purchase. Although it is obvious the engine has spent some time outside and there were two spark plugs missing when we picked it up I did take some modern technology with me. The first tool was a welding rod, I poked it into the sump and to my amazement all that came out on the rod was clean, clear engine oil. No black burnt sludge, water, emulsion or rust. That might still be in the bottom of the sump but decided it was a positive sign. The second tool was a £20 boroscope. I poked this into the two open spark plug holes; it does not give fantastic images (partly due to poor illumination) but I could not see anything to worry about. The threads for the spark plugs only had light surface rust and being horizontal did not appear to have let any rain in. I have not take the engine out of the trailer yet, it is too tall for the engine crane so we need to rig up the chain block and scaffold tower. Last night I put some oil in the bores and on most of the fasteners before covering it over with a tarpaulin. The starting handle had been broken at some point; I suspected the drive dog was in mesh and the shaft was stuck in the carrier so I unbolted it this morning so at least I will not bend it any more when unloading the trailer. I found a piece of bar that could be bolted to the flange on the crankshaft. This piece of bar has quite a few holes in it from some of the dismantling on the Dennis projects. To my amazement the crank moved with light finger force at about 2' away from the axis. I don't intend to turn it any more than that but it is certainly a positive sign for disassembly.
  7. From the same location as the Coventry Simplex I picked up this photo taken in Cologne, 1919
  8. It has been quite slow finding parts for the Thornycroft with the three major missing components being the steering box, engine and gearbox. I spotted this generating set online and we have been out today to collect it. At first I thought it was one of the Thornycroft T4 generators. The engine is very similar but in fact this one was made by Coventry Simplex. Looking at the engine numbers used in cars I think this dates it to around 1914 and makes it the 18.5hp model. I believe these generators were used to power searchlights, it ended up on a farm but from some of the lining on the paintwork I suspect it also found a fairground use at some point. The inlet over exhaust configuration is the same as the Thornycroft T4. Like the T4 it has only two main bearings and the crank has to be extracted through the hole at the back of the crankcase. The spark plugs stick out the side too so it may be the closest match I can find. Worth the 250 mile round trip! I will keep oiling it over the next few months before attempting to free anything off.
  9. We are still mainly concentrating on other (long neglected building) projects but really enjoying getting back into this one after so long. I have glued each additional layer of MDF onto the CNC cut templates and used the router to trim them with a slight offset to give 2 degrees of draft angle. Each is currently at 4 layers of 12mm and the final depth needs to be 4" so I need to add some thin ply or similar to the backs to finish them off. There are still a few more parts to print before moving on to the core box. The outlet is on the side of the radiator so a tight bend is needed. Three of the four parts of the pattern have been printed, rubbed down and primed; the other half of the core box is currently printing.
  10. Yesterday we printed the first half of the core box for the water connectors whilst I was working on other projects. The pattern had a couple of coats of bondaprimer and some rubbing back during the week and is starting to look good. The first half of the core box has had a light sanding and a coat of primer; the second half is hot off the printer.
  11. When I was having MDF shapes CNC machined for patterns some time ago (for the 1914 Dennis) we managed to fit in a couple of profiles for the header tank into the sheet (but not a complete set for the pattern). I have quite a bit of MDF left over from the mock cab I built (also for the 1914 Dennis) so I have cuts some pieces out a little larger than the templates. After making a couple of aluminium top hat pillars to pass through them (tapped M6 to help extract the pattern from the sand) I glued a couple of them together on the table in my office (as that is reasonably flat and will not upset the glamorous assistant as much as doing it on the kitchen table). I then took them out into the yard and used some plastic strips (printed to the correct thickness) to offset the router cutter and make the second layer slightly larger than the first and give the pattern a sensible draft angle so it should pull from the sand. I need to repeat this several times before I can screw and glue the printed parts to them.
  12. I picked up a free sample bag of threaded inserts at a engineering trade show and have been using those in the back of smaller patterns. I decided to print little handles to fit to M4 set screws as well. The project is not so much of a rush that I need to get something printed every day so I am printing small items in the evening and get a couple of the larger parts at the weekend. I am using a relatively small layer height (0.15mm) and thick walls so could print faster with thicker layers.
  13. Yes, they were from Ben. I need to organise a trip to see the Fowler next time I have an excuse to be in that area.
  14. We refitted a lineshaft to our kitchen last weekend; currently it is just ornamental and there are no plans for a flat belt driven apple lathe or mixer but I like to keep option open.
  15. I have made a few BS190 bolts and slotted nuts to secure the steering box this week, once painted I will fit them. So far I do not have the confidence to leave the 3D printer going when I am out of the house but some more of the radiator pattern parts are finished. I need to get the router out to shape the bits of MDF but we hired a skip this week so I have been moving large rocks and soil and every opportunity. Three of the water connections between the cylinder blocks are corroded away or broken. I made a CAD model of the pattern and core box. The pattern took around 13 hours to print, the core box will take about double that.
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