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FoolsHumor

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  1. Hello Skip, Are you part of the group of 3 in the video? Happy to provide some photos of the interior. Anything in particular you are interested in? I do not want to flood the forum with pics that not everyone may be interested in. I could send them separately to an e-mail address or post them here if there is an interest from others? Regards, Bob
  2. Very much enjoyed the video. Its clear you gents are having a good time with your vehicles and life in general. Well Played. Bob
  3. Located in Central Indiana. I cannot lay claim to having a hand in its condition. It was already nicely restored and appointed with a considerable amount of kit. An odd story for you that I may have told here previously. I was at the Knob Creek MG shoot a couple of years ago having a brief discussion with a vendor who I knew also had a Saladin. Another gentleman overheard the conversation and introduced himself as another owner, then paused and yelled across two aisles to a friend who immediately came over and he also owned one. So there we stood, four Saladin owners and a gathering that had nothing to do with vehicles. I have no idea how many are in the US, but I would guess we may have represented a good percentage of what is here. Regards, Bob
  4. Hello Richard, Good to hear from you, it has been a while since I have posted much. As to the numbers, I came away from my purchase with the belief they were just made up and there was no interior data plate at all. A gentleman from the UK contacted me recently asking for some information that he thought would help him establish a small data base for the purpose of registering his own. He directed me to a small numbered hull plate on the rear and a similar plate on the turret behind the cable reel. Would those numbers help any in identifying the actual number the vehicle should have? My only other clues have been some clumps of sandy red soil and a coin I found in the hull. The family I bought it from here in the US obtained it from Anthony Budge. I do not know if it was purchased elsewhere and restored by Budge or already owned by Budge. Any and all help appreciated. Regards, Bob
  5. Its good to see your photos as I will eventually need to pull mine to replace the fluid coupling seal. I knew it was a problem when I bought the vehicle and it improved with some use that it had not see for some time. But leaking " less " is not where I want to be, so it will come out.
  6. Well done guys. Great photos with good detail. Dedicated cart with big enough wheels to get around without stalling on a grain of sand. I also enjoy seeing the shop people work out of, at times finding as much interest in the tools , layout and equipment as in the vehicles themselves. Thanks for the post.
  7. I seem to have quite a lot of old things that do not run from time to time. If I have nothing when cranking the engine I give the air intake a very light dusting of starting fluid (ether) . If it runs briefly it tells me it was missing fuel but has spark. Be sure to use only minimal amounts of starting fluid. Engine parts turned to shrapnel are disheartening.I have also had considerable trouble with older vehicles and condensers dying. I seem to remember Clive warning that many new old stock condensers are already bad due to age. There was a thread here or on the Ferret Forum where someone had a number for a Chrysler condenser that was the correct size and cap value to work as a direct replacement.You might also consider cooling the ignition coil with some water when it refuses to start, to see if the cooler temps bring it back to life. That used to work on early Ford ECM's that were very heat sensitive.If any of the much wiser individuals here suggest you not try some of the above suggestions, follow their lead. These are just random thoughts from an old guy who has old tired vehicles.Regards,Bob
  8. Richard, My apologies for the overlap. I was slowly 2 finger typing while you were replying. Did not look at the thread again before sending. Bob
  9. Working from memory, I believe the system does maintain pressure if all the valve gear is tight. As I remember the manual says to pump the brake pedal a few times, with the engine off, to bleed pressure off the system and to empty the accumulators of fluid so the hydraulic level can be checked. The accumulators would still have their charge, but pistons would be bottomed out and no longer acting on the fluid. I also recall not reading the manual soon enough and topping off the hydraulic fluid with the system pressurized and the accumulators full. Later when I leaned on the brake pedal a few times, a family member passing through the shop asked what the puddle underneath was from. Before I could answer I had to ask how large it currently was, and if it was getting bigger. If someone else says this information is wrong, they are likely correct. Regards, Bob
  10. I have also read on several occasions that they should not be towed any distance, but I have never understood why. It would seem all the roundy round parts would be no different than if it was being driven as long as the transfer box was disengaged. Is there an oil pump that is only functions from the driven end as in some gearboxes? Regards, Bob
  11. So I am clear, these were a second set in addition the the other pair mounted forward near the fuel selector? Thanks, Bob
  12. I have a couple of questions please in reference to the early fire extinguishers as used on Ferrets and I assume other vehicles as well. I have heard them referred to as Indian Club style and a photo of the bottle without the brass head is attached. Also 2 images of the threaded insert, one with it removed and upside down showing the spent pierceable copper disc. Can someone tell me what fire suppressant was used? There appears to be some yellow powder involved. More puzzling is how were they pressurized? No other one way valves or such is present. Were they filled with a chemical mix that somehow built its own pressure after the copper ring was seated? Forgive me if I have previously asked this. The memory is going quickly. Thanks for any help offered. Regards, Bob
  13. Would that be from the flag being upside down?
  14. While we are discussing the curiosities of Detroits I thought these 2 photos might be interesting to someone. They show the exhaust valve train on one head of a 8V-71. Each cylinder has 4 exhaust valves and this one has the infamous Jake Brakes installed. The close up shows a center pushrod and rocker assembly with its own return spring, 4 valves with springs and rockers and the Jake solenoid assemblies. Lots of activity going on under these valve covers. Bob
  15. Could someone please help me understand the turbo versions. My manuals give grand details on repair and rebuild of parts, but little of nothing on theory or operation. All I can make out is the turbo feeds the blower and the air box specs show a 2100 rpm pressure of 5.5 inches of mercury for the non turbo and around 30 inches for the turbo model. As I understand the inlet ports close prior to the exhaust valves closing so that would not allow a pressure rise. On the turbo models do they close the exhaust valves earlier in relation to the inlet ports to allow pressure to build, or is it somehow done on the normal restrictions through the exhaust system? Thank you for whatever help you can offer. Bob
  16. David, I will drag this on a bit, not because I believe I am correct, but because my questioning something is the best way I know to prod some other poor soul into unsuspectingly educating me. I understand that the term blower and supercharger are used somewhat interchangeable. As an example, I have heard the phrase Blower Bentley used to refer the early supercharged cars. But in the case of the Detroit’s I am thinly familiar with, 6V-71’s and 8v-71’s, the manuals only refer to them as blowers. I believe the blower cannot raise the cylinder pressure above ambient because the intake ports close before the exhaust valves do. Only then does the pressure rise due to piston compression. Below is an excerpt from a GMC manual on Detroit two-strokes. “The swirling flow of air toward the exhaust valves produces a scavenging effect, leaving the cylinders full of clean air when the piston rises and covers the inlet ports. As the piston continues on upward stroke, exhaust valves close and the charge of fresh air is subjected to the final compression.” I suppose there could be some mild rise in pressure due to resistance in the exhaust system or by trying to push air past the small exhaust valves, but even then the manual claims only 5.5 inches of mercury pressure in the air boxes. The equivalent of 3 PSI. I can only assume the cam and valve timing is much different for the turbo engines. I agree with you about the feeble blower causing poor power. In the absence of a positive exhaust stroke as in a 4-stroke engine, a healthy blower is the only way to purge the oxygen poor residual exhaust gasses and replace them with fresh air. Nick, So my post is not completely without Gamma Goat content, did the turbo simply replace the mechanical blower, or is it still present as well? Were there any other internal changes made to the engine to accommodate the turbo? I have no doubt that my opinions are flawed and would be happy if someone would take the time to explain why to me. Regards, Bob
  17. I believe the Goats did have an aluminum block 3-53 Detroit, but I do not believe it was supercharged. All 2 stroke Detroits had Rootes type mechanical blowers , but they were not used to raise intake pressures. They were only used to purge remaining exhaust gases. Some larger Detroits did have turbo-superchargers along with the blowers. They all howl like a banshee. Regards, Bob
  18. Congratulations...............photos of your progress as it occurs please.
  19. You guys are starting to make me feel badly about my prized possessions. Bob
  20. Steve, PM sent. Thank You very much. Regards, Bob
  21. Steve, I have Pamphlet 18 Saladin Armement as a reprint, which seems to have the same 76mm round information in this thread. I am not familiar with Pamphlet 13 that Andy referenced. The scans I asked about would be for the Alvis Promotional Booklet. If a reprint is available for purchase I would be happy to do so if someone would direct me. If not, I would guess others here would like to see it as well. Thank You for the reply, Regards, Bob
  22. Forgive me if this sounds self-serving. It would be great if a current or future owner of this pamphlet, or anyone else who has one, could scan it and post the file here on the forum. I am sure there are enough Saracen and Saladin owners here to benefit from the effort. Thank You, Regards, Bob
  23. If pigs have a similiar Distribution Box to a Saladin (photo attached) it may be the same problem I had. The box disconnects the batteries forcibly by direct mechanical means, but relies on spring pressure to re-engage the switch. The grease had gotten very hard in the shaft and bushing and the spring would not reliably push it back to contact. A dissassembly and cleaning solved the issue. May be worth opening the panel to see where the power is and is not. Good Luck Bob
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