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mwarrior

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  1. I've seen a few threads regarding the use of Unleaded versus Leaded on here... And also that Lead was typically added for anti-knock as well as increasing octane. So my question is this, since the only LEADED fuel I can find without ethanol is 104 Octane (all the way to 118), what would be better? E-10 based Regular Unleaded (87 Octane using the "R+M/2" method), or Ethanol-Free 91 Octane Unleaded? Or finally, one of the above with Lead Substitute on each tank? Fuel is going in a B80 in a Saracen if it matters. Thanks G
  2. Robin, can you please check your Inbox when you get a chance? Hoping to get the Saracen running in great shape this year, as well as check out some of the Ottawa area vehicles (I see CWC has an MK6 as well... Mine will be in Ottawa as soon as I can find a hauler to bring it from Toronto to here.)
  3. Hi Robin, Thanks for the reply. I'm actually in India right now, so any messages that come to my phone usually disappear from the system by the time I turn it on to check messages (I'd rather not pay Rogers $3/min for keeping it on overseas ) I'll send you a PM shortly with a VOIP number though with a Texas area code, that should make it easier. After Labour Day is fine, although earlier would be nice. Or if there's parts I need I could of course order/find those in the meantime. And yes I doubt I'll be seeing those parts. He WAS nice enough to add them to the invoice and charge me like 500 Pounds, and then claim that they "may have been nicked in transport, I'll send replacements". This was when it arrived in 2008. I'll send the # over shortly. Thanks
  4. Hi all, It's been a while since I've posted. So low and behold, the hydraulic line started corroding and leaking at the rear of the vehicle (It's a MK5), therefore no brakes or steering. To top it off, I think there's a leak in the front left seal on the wheel. Is there anybody in the Toronto area who can make/install a line for me as well as help out with the seal? I do have ISO15 fluid as well as the Omala 220 (I think that's the one, made by Shell?) so replenishing the Hydraulic fluid is not an issue. So, is there that can help and maybe even help me tune/service this thing? It needs a coat of paint as well but I figure it's better making it driveable before worrying about that. The gentleman I bought it from didn't put a Primer coat on apparently, nor did he give me my antennae or extra parts which I had paid for. If there's anybody that can help please let me know. The vehicle is in Oakville Ontario. Side Note: Sammy Clarke, if you're reading this forum, I'm still waiting for my long list of items. I'd appreciate you shipping them out forthwith.
  5. Ok so theres a yes for 20w50 and a no. What about the rest of the fluids? Bevel Boxes Fluid Flywheel Transfer Box Wheel Hubs Hydraulic fluid (for the Hydraulic supply oil tank)
  6. Well ideally mine would be doing more than 100hours per year due to driving to/from shows and such. But the 20w50 isnt a bad idea either, has anybody run it for a while in a B80? Also, Adam, you said cheapest ASDA 20w50. Is that the same as the cheapest US based 20w50? Any idea on synthetics? Or does synthetic = too much detergent?
  7. I figure at this point I might as well replace all the fluids since I'm having all sorts of joyful :??? problems. So, can anybody tell me which fluids I need? I've read that OMD110 is required for the engine, and then I've also heard that non-detergent oil is better... I know people here have Saracens/Saladins so lets hear it please Oils for: Engine Bevel Boxes Fluid Flywheel Transfer Box Wheel Hubs Any help is appreciated. I did check out DHMG, but it says you can use both Straight and also Multigrade. Then I've had people say use "Only straight 30 non detergent", and also people say "Use the cheapest 5w30" and also others say "Use only PAO based oils". So.... which is it? Thanks in advance
  8. ok time for another update. I decided to check the carb last night... And apparently the choke gets stuck on maximum. Manually opened it, let engine turn on, and closed choke, and it even idles fine now. When the choke is wide open, you can hear the fuel spraying in, could that possible have been the culprit maybe? I hope so... Will check today, anybody else think so?
  9. Just a thought, another thing done between the fuel going into the oil and not going into the oil that I did... I put mid-high octane fuel in the tank rather than the regular unleaded+lead substitute. Could this possibly be causing unburnt fuel to enter the oil?
  10. Adam: Good point about not starting it. I changed the oil and started just to make sure that it was fuel and not the old oil deteriorating (it was at least a year old that I knew of). As for the fuel pump, this is probably a very stupid question but how exactly do I even get to it? I got to the hand primer by removing the plate beside the brake pedal (primed it up to pressurize after removing/replacing the fuel filter and also adding new fuel), but from what I can tell it is extremely difficult to get to. Also, as I said in my post above, if it is the fuel pump, wouldnt that stop it from starting? I thought it goes Tank > Fuel Tap > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pump > Carburetter > Engine. If thats the case, then how is it a diaphragm would cause fuel inside the oil? Thanks
  11. Well Varsol = paint thinner = stale fuel maybe? sirhc: If the fuel pump failed, wouldnt that also stop any fuel from going to the engine, therefore making it not start? Unless theres something I missed there? When I start it, it does smell like its running rich, in addition to the accumulation of gasoline inside the oil. Somebody suggested adjusting the carb as that may be flooded and/or allowing fuel into the engine. I'm not sure either way why its doing it, hence why I am here
  12. Ok so my radiator is back on the vehicle and ready to go. Filled it up, and fired the engine up.... Kept the covers up/off to make sure theres nothing leaking, and sure enough... no coolant... BUT... Oil started spraying out of the engine oil filler cap. Shut it down, checked the dipstick, its all of a sudden HIGHER than the shaded area (wasnt like that before). It also smells a little like varsol. Now that said, the last few starts before I pulled the radiator it was also blowing out some greyish smoke. I've just bought 16L of SAE 30 non-detergent oil (14 for the engine plus 2 just in case its needed later), but hesitent to put it in just yet in case the same thing is about to happen. Anybody have any suggestions on what a cause could be? It was fine until a couple of months ago. The only things that have changed are: 1) Radiator was removed and flushed 2) Engine was flushed with CLR and water 3) Fuel filter was cleaned/replaced 4) Switch before the fuel filter was moved from "Reserve" to "Main" (I think it was on Reserve, according to the manual anyways... so moved it to Main and added more fuel to the tank) The only other issue I'm having is that it is not idling either, even with the choke on OR with turning the knob beside the steering wheel (forget the name at the moment). Not sure if the two are related.
  13. Descaler is something I havent thought of, I'll try that today first. Good idea Anybody else?
  14. Attempting to diagnose an overheating issue (mentioned on another post here), I took my radiator off to see if it is leaking or blocked. After noticing that no water leaks out when it is full of water, I noticed that when draining the radiator, no matter which way you turn it, at least a few liters are still remaining inside the unit. Is this something normal? That water stays in even if you tilt/turn it every way possible, or do I need to have it looked at by a radiator shop? That said, can most radiator or truck radiator shops deal with this or are the AFV/FV radiators very different?
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