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paul connor

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About paul connor

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/20/1978

Personal Information

  • Location
    Germany, Ostfriesland, by the North Sea.
  • Interests
    Military History. Archaeology. Military Vehicles. Metal Music.
  • Occupation
    Commercial Archaeologist

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  1. I have used both. JeepDodgeGmc: As stated they don't speak great English so they are slow at responding. Some parts are excellent and others cheap pattern stuff. Overall I do use them, but keep orders large due to postage. Jeepest: A great company to deal with. I met them at Ciney show and they're very helpful. Parts are always good, the only problems I have had is my own fault ordered the wrong part numbers! OverL great, but still subject to French postal costs. I'd add Wildenburg are great to deal with. While not always the cheapest their service is good and are always very knowledgeable and helpful. Willysjeep.be: I've not been impressed with their stuff, its usually wrong and we are still waiting a wrong part exchange 3 months later! But they were very cheap. I guess you work out which dealer works best for you, and then I generally stick with them. While you may pay a little more you receive a service you can reply on, and that's worth more to me. Paul
  2. I have contacted Jaguar Land Rover and they will provide a date of build certificate for £30. So £14 saving over the heritage link; just in case anyone else in the future wants similar information. Thanks guys, let's hope it was built before June 1989! So I can register it as an oldtimer!
  3. Ah, yes, the heritage thing looks promising. Does anyone have any experience with one of those?
  4. Hi, I'm aware you can break down a VIN number for the exact year and model from a Land Rover, but I require the actual month mine was produced. Can anyone shed light to if this is possible? I have the military history, which states my vehicle was pressed into service during February 1990, yet the chassis codes state it was built in 1989. I'm aware it was likely sitting before it was placed into service, but as I am due to re-register it in Germany I need the production date as I can get 'oldtimer' status and reep a few benefits such as reduced tax, and being classed as historic. Does LRover still hold such information, or can I only prove it was 1989, at some stage? As Germany will want to know what date, time and who put the last rivet in, as well as what tea he was drinking and if he was late that morning. Thanks Paul
  5. Wolf wheels are just a variation on steel wheels. Stronger and look a bit different, as Sirhc said. As for tyes, tubes or no tubes.. pretty much lies with the tyre you choose. I have wolf wheels on my 110 and after the G90 Goodyears wore out I chose Copper STT Pro LT235/85/16 tubeless. Look good and suit the military 110, and also great on and off road. Although, as with many, quite noisy! But so is a land rover.
  6. Do you have any pictures of the jig? I have sourced a very cheap NOS pressure plate, so will see if that does the trick. I hope so!
  7. Where can I find the connectors for these rear lights? They appear to be a Male bayonet style? Thanks Paul
  8. Hi Phil, I did wonder that myself, but I was pretty careful to place the new clutch *Flywheel this side*, but I shall check again, as I swear the older I get the more I question what I am doing, as I do seem to make more mistakes when I was adamant I did it correctly! I guess I will find out; but it was clearly marked.
  9. I have been offered a NOS clutch pressure plate, for pretty cheap, so that may be the better option. Having pondered this fault for a few hours now, you must be right. The only real moving parts are the clutch fork, which was not damaged, and the bearing and pressure plate. The uneven gap around the bearing I can see through the inspection hole furthermore suggests that. As the bearing pushing the plate operates the clutch, so as the clutch isn't disengaging it has to be those levers. The only adjustment is the linkage and that is at the most maximum setting, so the levers must be out of adjustment or the springs are shot. Thanks Richard, I shall also have a look in the right TM later on, and see if I feel purchase or tackling the plate is the best course. Of course, I was giving the original plate too much credit, as I have no idea if it worked before, it just appeared in good order.
  10. Hi Richard, thanks for the reply. The clutch plate was an original and an engineering friend skimmed it, yet he did not dismantle it, so not sure how? I have just popped back to the vehicle and had a look into the inspection plate. It appears the levers on the pressure plate do not sit evenly on the bearing. It would appear one nearly touches and the other two appear to have a gap of around 5mm. Do you know if the lever adjustment is possible without the specialist tool needed, which is some sort of jig? I also adjusted the maximum amount of movement possible for the pedal. So it appears that even with this tolerance the clutch still drags/doesn't release when pedal is depressed. I have also just been searching on the internet and on a Dodge forum it states that some people have added 1/8th washers behind the pressure plate screws to gain more travel? This sounds like a bad idea to me? What is annoying is I initially fitted the clutch with the engine on a stand, which now will mean any work will have to be undertaken on the vehicle, which means fighting through the inspection port!
  11. Hi everyone, I have what I think is a potential issue, but I thought I would brainstorm here to see what you all think. I have a Dodge WC54 I am working on, and I have installed a new clutch. The flywheel was skimmed, as was the clutch pressure plate, but this was minimal, more to clean. After installation of the gearbox today, I rotated the output shaft at the rear of the gearbox with the gearbox in neutral and it rotates freely with no noises or resistance. However, when I depress the clutch and rotate the output shaft, it rotates but sounds as if the clutch is still binding and giving resistance. I furthermore adjusted the linkage and no change, so how would I go about removing this issue, which I guess is binding? To summarise New Bork & Beck clutch disc. Skimmed flywheel Skimmed pressure plate Original release bearing that appears in good order. Issue When gearbox is in neutral the output shaft rotates freely with no issues, no resistance or noise. When clutch pedal is depressed and the output shaft is rotated it sounds as if the clutch is binding slightly, slight resistance on the shaft. I have adjusted the linkage to both extents of its travel, but alas cannot stop the clutch from binding with pedal depressed? Any ideas? as I'm positive if it is driven with the issue the clutch will slip or glaze very fast. My initial hunch is the forks on the clutch plate, maybe they are not contacting the bearing enough to disengage the clutch plate? Hopefully tomorrow I will have an assistant so I can check through the inspection port on the bottom of the engine
  12. Hi all, I have an 110 that I changed the steering wheel on many years ago, as I really hated the old 1980's wheel it had fitted. I fitted a smaller wheel which has served me well, but now it must go, as I have the looming German TUV test coming. Why you ask? well, the new wheel would need to be certified and have paperwork, which it does not, so I have sourced a 36 spline (correct for 1989 but newer look) steering wheel, which is the later type with the bulging middle part. Anyhow, my question is thus! This has the classic de-lamination at the top of the wheel where the plastic has separated from the metal inside so it can be twisted back and forth. Can this be repaired and has anyone undergone such a repair? I was thinking of drilling small holes and injecting glue (epoxy) or slicing the rear open and the same operation. Any ideas? As I need a standard LR wheel fitted, and the old one from HMV Belfast that was originally fitted I threw away a long time ago. Many thanks Paul
  13. Yes, its the eBay "bootsale" app. Not much to go on with the advert though!
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