sirhc

Much easier and cheaper to buy some clansman intercom boxes, although the cables are getting hard to find.

All the info is here: https://mvt.org.uk/mvt-vehicle-verification-service/

https://merlinarchive.uk/vehicle/90KG98

It will be in this book but I don’t have a copy handy: https://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/cvrtcvrwj60-petrol-engine-emers-211-p.asp

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285104552025?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=f96twh4rRAW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=A3ZwjB7vSVy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255898640250?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YgB-tBOmTVu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=A3ZwjB7vSVy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yes, the bracket is bolted to the chassis and the clutch tube is fitted to it.

https://www.joesmotorpool.com/clutch-lever-control-overhaul-kit-for-willys-mb-slat-mb

Try this: http://jeepdraw.com/SNL_G-503_pdf_files.html

It’s a scam. Try Stabil instead.

The 19 set has both an A set and B set antenna. The B set being the shorter one. The A set uses F section antenna rods. I’m looking for a rubber B set antenna base if anyone has one. Chris

Hi Andrew, No the diesel drive shaft is different, it’s much larger and heavier. https://cvrtpro.com/shop/cvrt-engine-parts/diesel-specific/cvrt-coupling-main-drive/ Chris

You should also buy a copy of the diesel common items parts list.

I think the following pictures show the value of purchasing the correct manual. Chris

Do you have this manual? https://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/cvrtx28dx29repair-instructions-common-items-522-2897-p.asp I built my Scimitar from a pile of bits. My engine mounts were missing. I was told to make sure the top of the gearbox (yellow, red or blue plate with the filler plug) is level with the sponson (horizontal bit of hull above the tracks) - I did this using a spirit level and making sure the vehicle is on level ground. I did have the shim pack and conical washers so it was very straight forward. The double check is to put the fan bulkhead in and measure the distance from the gearbox pulley to the bulkhead at the top and bottom. If it’s not the same your belt won’t last long. The engine mounts are also shimmed using basically different thickness washers. I had some laser cut in varying thicknesses. I then borrowed the alignment tools to get it at the right height. The back of the engine (not flywheel end) should be slightly higher than the front to prevent the drive shaft from falling prematurely. The engine went in and out 2 or 3 times to get this right. I’ve not had to touch it since I fitted it in 2013 and I’ve never lost a fan belt, so I think this method works.

There are 17 visible on the Google satellite image

Mostly smelted. There’s a list of registration numbers and their fate in this book: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chieftain-Rob-Griffin/dp/1861264380

Do you have the centre bolt, domed washers and all the shims with the vehicle?

I think the MJ in the type and serial number should be a clue. Does it have a turbo?

Thanks Adrian, I will get some photos for you later in the week. The bike is now green but it’s likely it’s been repainted at least once.

I just bought a pair from a guy on Facebook, he’s in the WW2 BSA folding bicycle restoration project group. My frame number is shown below for your database. Chris

Hi Jim, Do the packages have any other numbers e.g. 9ASC or 9AAD? Chris

Looks like they were held in with clamps using the 2 holes on either side. If you’ve got new ones anyway try a pry bar between the scope and the shroud. They won’t be a press fit because they will be replaceable in the field.

https://militaryleak.com/2022/07/12/ukraine-receives-first-batch-of-uk-fv103-spartan-tracked-armoured-personnel-carrier/?amp

The guy filming is sat on top of a Spartan and another following.

Ok, mines a diesel.