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T8Hants

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  1. I think I have been led up the garden path! After taking my Lucas dynamo to bits yesterday, and not finding anything visibly wrong. Then after getting more or less the right readings for the coil and armature on my multi meter, I thought I would reassemble it and give it a spin. So following the directions of a youtube vid (in Italian), with subtitles, I bridged the two output terminals, connected one lead off the meter to the bridge and the other to the dynamo body, set the meter to 20v and spun the thing up. Result a reading of between 6.7 & 7.4v and apparently a working dynamo, unless I'm wrong again. Moral to this story, if there is a simple test you can do just to confirm an 'expert's' diagnosis, do it first, before you disassemble your unit. Need to change the ball race though. Gareth
  2. Update, I have now checked the disconnected field coil leads. Setting my multi meter to 200 ohms, I get a reading of 4.2 ohms, which I think is slightly high am I right in thinking this is not a good thing? I have also checked the stator, which I think should show a reading of 0.5 - 0.8 ohms, which is what I am seeing. Gareth
  3. Apart from the field coil still being within the dynamo body the rest is dismantled. On the armature I have continuity between the segments themselves, but not between any segment and the armature body. Turning to the field coil, the insulation wrapping looks good, there is continuity between both leads off the the coil. I have just realised that my first test to see if the coil is shorting to the body was invalid, because I had not disconnect the other coil lead that is connected to the dynamo body at the point where the brush lead is also connect. Having disconnected that lead there is no apparent short. As the bike last ran in 1947, I wonder if the magnetism has faded? My mechanic has a good reputation for classic car charging systems, but was slightly unsure on classic bike, he did diagnose correctly that the magneto wasn't working, but we have a guy here on the Island that is very good with those, I just can't find a dynamo man Gareth.
  4. Any Lucas E3H dynamo experts here, I am trying to find out if my field coil or armature has gone open circuit? The dynamo is partially dismantled and by way of a simple test I tried to see if there was continuity from the field coil cable that runs to the terminal in the end cap and the body of the dynamo, which there is. So my questions are, does this indicate failed field coil insulation, or if the test method is not valid, could some kind soul tell me how to test the field coil please. I also tried testing the armature with a simple test that I found on the web of seeing if there is continuity between the copper segments and the steel body of the armature, which there is not, does this imply the the armature is Ok? I was told by a local car mechanic that the dynamo was u/s, but he didn't do repairs and I am very reluctant to trust the unit to the 'gentle' care of either a courier or the postal service, If I can find what is duff, I will replace the parts myself. Thank-you.......Gareth
  5. Thank you Ron, one is now on order from JJ Cables, details confirmed over the phone for lengths etc, £18.00 all in, sorted. Thanks.........Gareth
  6. Although my original front brake cable is sound, I am not sure I want to trust a 75 year old cable for my main stopper. I have the 22" inner with 18" outer, plus adjuster, the rest being the 3/16" rod down to the hub. Is there anyone who makes that type of brake cables with the adjuster built in? Or do I go for the short outer long inner version that does away with the rod section, which do seem to be available? Once again thank you in advance..............Gareth
  7. Thank you Mark, I bought a repro version from ebay, but it doesn't look exactly like yours. However I can now check its dimensions against an original and modify if necessary, I'm much obliged. Gareth
  8. Thanks Mark, thats very useful. A couple of questions, in your upper photo, is that a very neat wear mark,or was there originally a slight lip machined on the outer radius and have you shown both sides? Gareth
  9. Ron I hope you don't mind me bothering you again.  I am getting confusing messages concerning the 3HW oil retaining plate.  I put my enquiry out on another forum, and was told that I don't need the spigotted spacer in fact they could be a disadvantage, as they run the risk of catching the back of the clutch and spinning with it, use the flat one as they were just as good I was told. I know their i.d. is 15/16" and as the clutch shaft is 13/16", that seems to me to be an awful lot of play between shaft and plate.

    There is a chap now selling what looks like the correct plate and I am waiting for him to get back to me with the I.d. of his product (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-PRE-UNIT-OIL-SEALING-PLAT/254056711747 ) 

    I value your opinion and knowledge of the 3HW, and as you had your plate re manufactured I was wondering what i.d. you had it made to?

    Thanks in anticipation.....Gareth

    1. Ron

      Ron

      Gareth I can't think why the clutch would snag the spigot, surely it would hit the retaining plate first and if anything like that did happen, it must because of  miss-assembly/end float of the main shaft. The one on ebay looks to be a snug fit on the shaft, but I can't compare mine as it's buried behind the clutch. 

      As I said Brian Tillin made mine so he must know the spec. You could ring him on 07786 861697.

      These are the only pix I have on file.  Ron1945529477_3HW046.thumb.jpg.435fc269016d9b4614c25d376f7f3500.jpg957953782_3HW061.thumb.jpg.0cf0ab7f480d084cac216247adf8bfde.jpg

  10. Just a bump on this, I am still trying to find either a spare or get the dimensions to make one. No one out there with a late pressed steel chain case with the clutch out, or is it a non critical part? Gareth again.
  11. Ron, I need to get a dynamo rebuild kit for my 1945  3HW, is there anywhere you would recommend?  I have just had the magneto rebuilt by chap here on the I.W., but dynamos are not his thing.

     

    Gareth

    1. Ron

      Ron

      Try Paul in Shaftsbury 01747 852136 mob 07860 828546. Ron

    2. T8Hants

      T8Hants

      Thank you, I will give him a try

       

      Regards Gareth

  12. I had a WRS number painted on my Morris C9/B, I understand it stands for 'War Reserve' and may have something to do with the order in which vehicles were to be sent back into service during an escalating conflict, post 1945. Or so I was led to believe.
  13. Thank you gents, that is a big help. I have just delivered my magneto for a rewind to a chap here on the Island, so progress is being made. Gareth
  14. Hi All When I took my 3HW apart for its major repaint and fettle to get it running at last (35 years waiting) I could remember where every nut and bolt went, now I can't Could some kind soul take pity on an old codger and remind me what and where this bolt and extended nut goes. Thanks.....Gareth
  15. This is the field stand and retaining clips on my Feb 1945 3HW, that had 6 months road use after being sold out of service as unissued war stock. The slight bend in the stand is either a post war mod, or the result of a slight whoops when in use. Hope that helps.....Gareth
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