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T8Hants

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  1. Sorry forgot that part of the question tin primary cover, field stand and pannier racks, all in nice black when purchased.
  2. It was used by a chap who was RN working in Portsmouth, but had home bunking leave at East Cowes, so every shift he rode it from there to wet end of Ryde pier and back, then he was transferred to Gib, so the bike was only taxed and used for 9 months, its got 5006 miles on the clock,m it then stayed in his shed till the mid 80's.
  3. It is possible it was the local bike dealer, as their logo was on the rear number plate over the black paint, which as I said was sprayed. I am just curios why there is an alloy oil-pump cover on a late production bike, seems like an unnecessary upgrade in some ways, also it implies they were available, if fitted post war, we will never know for certain.
  4. Interesting! As i have said my bike is Feb 1945 made, and has never left the UK, so its not an Indian return. Was there an official' civilianisation programme for unissued military bikes by Triumph to try and fill the post-war demand? My bike when I got it was sprayed black, had full rubber furniture, and the alloy oil-pump cover. There were no markings on the tank when I rubbed it down. I have heard that Triumph had a buy back programme from the Goverment, so they could quickly turn complete bikes around for the civilian market, can anyone confirm this? Leyland had a buy back scheme in place at the end of WW1, which proved very successful, so it was done.
  5. Quick question as starting up day is getting closer (I hope), are there any special actions I should take to run my 3HW on the modern rubbish they now call petrol? I have the valve seat additive, should I need to be concerned about the ethanol content any other things I should think of to ensure good practice.....Ta! Gareth
  6. Ok, I wasn't thinking so much of theft, more battery drain and inadvertent short-out.
  7. On my MV's, I always fit a battery isolation switch, so I was just wondering if the same thing is done on military motorcycles and if so what sort of component and how best to hide it, if needed. Gareth
  8. That's good to know, part of the reason I have never progressed very far with the bike is I have always been very worried about making a mistake and wrecking something. I am hoping with the assembled expertise on the field at Havenstreet 40's weekend I might just get it started this time around. So she might get a start even if I have to retro fit the washer, Draganfly will make them to order.
  9. Thats an interesting point, the clutch does appear to be fully home and on spinning it there is no noise or sign of rubbing. The drive sprocket is sitting back about 1/16 out of line, so perhaps it is the missing washer that should space that off. I assume both sprockets should be in line. As I have probably mentioned before this bike hasn't run since 1947,and I've had it 33 years, time is running out.
  10. Having cleaned up the washer I found, as I went to fit it that it would run resting on the crank case face, so it can't be that one. I also have a misalignment between the clutch sprocket and the drive sprocket, with the clutch sprocket slightly out from the drive. I am now beginning to suspect the oil retaining plate I bought of the bay last year is too thick. Everything is going to have to come off just to get the oil plate out, one forward two back again.
  11. I was just about to put my cush drive together when on consulting the parts list, I noticed that a washer was required at the sprocket end of the drive Could some kind soul tell me if the washer I have subsequently found looks to be the right one, it is quite thin? I bought my bike as a complete basket case so the less obvious parts sometimes escape me. I'm only two weeks off show time and she's not fully back together yet.....Thanks....Gareth
  12. Thank you Ron, I am beginning to understand now, I have both items present and can see which way round the rod goes, so I can start reassembly. I had something in the back of mind about about a ball bearing, but that was clearly not involved with the 3HW. Thank you very much for your time! I am desperately trying to get the bike ready for the Havenstreet 40's weekend and at the moment, for every one forward its two back. Gareth
  13. I do need help on this one please. My 3HW came without a clutch rod, I was given one that I was told was correct and it has a dimple in the end, which to me suggests it might use a ball bearing to run on as part of the system. So some simple questions, is my clutch rod correct for the bike, should it have a dimple in the end, does it need a ball bearing to operate? At the moment my rebuild is stuck as I can't get an answer to what I thought were simple questions that every Triumph owner would know. Help appreciated..............Gareth
  14. Quick question chaps. Is there a ball bearing placed at one end or the other of the 3HW clutch rod and if so is at the basket end or the operating arm end? The parts manual isn't very clear on the subject.........Thanks. Gareth
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