monty_stubble

I have the contact of a local engineering work where (worst case scenario cost-wise) the guy can make new ones. Be very expensive though. As he says, "There's nothing that's been made that can't be made again". In the meantime the search continues.

Good thought. I'll have a look locally to begin with (I'm in the north).

I did wonder about a 1" threaded insert inside a more modern bearing (like a helicoil) but there isn't much room.

All the same I think. It equates, as you say to 40mm. I've already had a reply from Fenwicks and it's a non starter, I'm afraid.

Steering Head bearings are 1.577" OD and 1" ID with a 1" BSCY thread. Also have 22 balls of 3/16 diameter.

Any ideas where I can get a replacement headstock bearing(s) in the UK? Also, did I read somewhere that the wording on the generally available oil mix transfer was not correct for the ML (I might have imagined this).

I'd certainly be up for 2 contract plates.

By WW2 Renolds seem to have bought everyone out, including these guys.

Renolds bought the Coventry Chain Company pre-war but in WW2 they still operated as two companies but only apparently selling Renolds chain. Incidentaly, Coventry Chains made the drive chains for WW1 tanks.

Doesn't look much like one.

Renold chains had a virtual monopoly in WW2. Motorcycle magazine advertisements at the time made this clear.

I too have them. I guess the holes must be later mods.

Hesitate to pose this again. But as I near the completion of one ML and start on the next (yes, really) I am still confused by the routing of the cable to the rear light. Ron's clips (see the other thread) is by far the neatest and most sensible (which I've used) but I keep seeing them with holes in the rear mudguard to route the cable through. Is this a later adaptation or were there some of both kinds? I seem to have been out of the loop for a long time as I was wooed away by a 1961 AJS.

The cable attaches to the screw connector (arrowed). The cable goes down to the trigger.

I don't think we've ever met. I live in the north. I'll get some better pictures next time it gets worked on.

When you press the trigger foot pedal a shield to cover the sight is activated. It protects it from the flash (presumably). When you let go it pops back down. It's approx 6mm outer, 2mm inner cable. I'll just skin the plastic off one, I've got some in the shed.

Yes, bit worried about that. Could take a few mil off the nut I suppose. 2 other questions ... 1. Does the cable from the rear light go through the mudguard or over it. There seems to be a mixture. On the bike I haven't started on yet it goes through, on some photos, over the top. Which is it? 2. On your 2 pounder Anti Tank gun. When you fire it there is a bowden cable arrangement to close off the sight. How is it connected at the pedal? Is it a nipple or is it just clamped on with a screw? And is there a lubricator in the middle of the cable?

Would one of you gentlemen be so kind as to photograph me your front engine mounting (with the engine in place). Thank you. MS

Next step ... engine.

it It’s for a number plate. Possibly an old mudguard ‘recycled’.

Here you are with three coats of spray lacquer.

Yes, I've been lacquering them as you speak. Seems to work well and tightens the sleeve on to the cable outer in the same way that dope tightens up linen.

Had a crack at replica fabric covered cables. Not exactly like an original but not far off. MS

Thats an interesting topic. When does a original become a replica? Both my frames and basic engines are original, most of the cycle parts are too. However much of my fittings are new. So many nuts and bolts are mangled after 77 years I decided to renew. Here's one of my boxes of bsf stuff. I tend to run each one through the lathe to remove the modern letters off the top. One was missing a chainguard so I made one. I've made the brake linkage. Had to renew the gearbox case. I'm re-wiring the bike with modern fabric covered vinyl wire. When is it no longer original but a replica?

I assume they left the factory painted. But certainly if they'd been anywhere near REME for a touch up-everything got sprayed, sometimes even the tyres. It's like bolts. Some restorers like to leave them silver, some paint them. Which is correct?