SirLanceUK

This is still a work in progress, I have been unable to shift the screw top, despite soaking, bashing and heating. I have sent the diagrams round to a few people to see if they have bigger hammers or further ideas.

I was reading articles about this another issue that needs to be overcome is the power needed to drive heavier vehicles like buses. Batteries at the moment cant push a loaded bus up hill so the current answer is Hybrid. So will the same be true for HGV's... My point is that Diesel is still going to be needed.. Petrol for me might be harder, but I will be 85 so might be letting others drive me round and letting them worry about it

I put the winding handle on to Cupola and despite it being upside down it rotated. It's never going to win an fasted spinning thing but I was able to turn it with one hand. As I couldn't move it at all when I brought it this is a win. Looks like the 16th is the day it goes back on to the body... Still don't know what the microswitch does but it operates when the cupola is forward facing, maybe it is a cut out so you can only fire forward.... If I do find out I will let all know

The next step on the journey.. After putting the first ring on I placed 147 bearings along with their spacers - I have used 3 ton of graphite grease to pack out the bearings and fitted the shim rings then the next ring. Installed the Allen bolts to secure the rings together. Placed the next ring on top of the other rings, disaster I can only find 2 out of the 3 bolts. At this point I will claim that only 7 of the 8 bolts where ever there. New bolt ordered and duly arrived, all 3 bolts fitted in to the last ring, all is secure. Does the ring revolve, spin like a spinney thing... NO... However with a large screwdriver and a little effort it moves..... Now to fit it back on the Body

Help, there is a mico switch on a plunger that follows the cupola rings, what does it do? On the upper most ring there is as raised section that moves a plunger up and down as the ring rotates. The plunger moving up and down actuates a micro switch which has 2 wires going in to a plug. After looking through the several wiring diagrams for the cupola of the all the variants I couldn't find what it is used for on my model. So Forum what does it do (remember it's a Spartan) As an update, I have removed the rust from the cupola, treated the now exposed metal and ordered a ton of graphite grease to pack the bearings in. Putting it back together starts tomorrow you can see the plunger in the bottom right corner inside a brass bush

After extracting all the "bearings" turns out they are cylinders 12mm tall and 12mm in Diameter. They are placed one facing up and one facing out. Between each cylinder appears to be a metal disk (shim) covered in "plastic". The track where they run is very pitted on one side with rust, I have started to wire brush the track to see how smooth I can get it. Also will be reading up on how I can treat the track once I have removed the rust as I have a feeling it wont be a "smooth" surface. So looks like I will getting some new Cylinders as some are completely flat spotted and some shims 3mm x 11mm have shed there plastic coatings... Gotta a feeling this may take some time

Recently? I have not seen anything

Well the farmer turned up and 10 mins later the cupola was off and being transported to my garage Then with 4 burly men and me I was able to get it upside down You can see things are rusty, we sat around having a tea then started to undo some bolts Much debate about how it works and I didn't tell them I had a diagram so knew a little More Allen bolts removed and MORE rust uncovered Interesting arrangement of bearings and shims all covered in rust. Still I had nothing to do for the next couple of weeks. And for those that are interested the order is Shim-Bearing facing up-Shim-Bearing laying sideways-Shim repeat lots of times. and after trapping my fingers the bearing and shims just lift out

Fingers crossed my local farmer is coming around tomorrow to lift off the cuploa. Then I hope to take a few pictures and see what we will see. Got a few old hands with MV's coming round to offer advice, assistance and maybe a beer Hopefully start updating from Tuesday

Only ever had 10 mins instruction from a man with a Scorpian I love tips like this. I am getting better the more I drive, but I am sure I am picking up bad habits as well. Any others you would like to share?

After removing all the bolts (very easy, think someone had had a go already) I got up today to see if the Cuopola would come off on the 30th or needed some help (very large hammer or heating). To my surprise it lifted straight up, their is some sort of laminated ring on top of the body that is cracked (dont think i did it) but the body under the ring is rusty so needs treating before I replace the cupola.... Now here is a question does that ring need replacing or is it there as a "seal" against water... anyone know? My plan is when the cupola is lifted clear to treat the rust and make a "gasket" to put the cupola back on... Unless someone knows different

Does that mean I have done the right thing Lance

Hi. no I have not sorted it. At the moment it is soaking in a bucket of paraffin and automatic transmission fluid. Every couple of days I take it out, bash it a bit and try and unscrew it . I do keep looking out for a replacement but so far no luck. I have to get the bracket rewelded on the deck and while I have had 3 people tell me they can do it, not one has been brave enough to do it.. so the the whole thing is on the back burner chhers Lance

So I have now arranged for fork lift to take the Cupola off on the 30th of November, I have asked lots of people to help should be an 8 man team, even had 1 volunteer who has done this before..... I will update the forum as to what happens, hopefully a cupola that spins like a very spinny thing.

Hi, with my limited experience this is what I have found. One time the shift works as smooth as silk. The next time I have to stop the engine and restart as I change from forward to reverse (or reverse to forward). However I am looking forward to using Sirhc's advice about a smooth but firm change and not stopping when in the neutral position I am hoping this might improve the changing direction.

Wading in here... I would never support stopping anyone who owns anything from turning up to any event. My entry level was a spartan off eBay. I love it and love taking it to shows (when I can ) and would never support anyone or anything that would stop anyone from having the same joy and pleasure... having said that I did mention spending £600 to bring it to W&P and then paying entry does seem a slap in the face

Hi Chris, If you can help in anyway of course I will be further in your debt. All are the same type as I posted a picture of 1 x 2 pin female O/D 15mm 4 x 3 pin female O/D 15mm 1 x 10 pin male O/D 28mm 1 x 5 pin male O/D 21mm Cheers Lance

https://uk.farnell.com/amphenol/ms3106a-18-1s/socket-free-10way/dp/617143 it's more the connectors I need I have the other ones. You can see that they want £18+vat or xmod want £12+vat just being penny wise as I can see me making a lot more cables over the weeks/ months a head

Thank you I will purchase it, does anyone know where I can get the connectors or what it is I can search the web under.. like "military connectors CVRT"

Spartan CVRT wiring in the back a complete mess. I have several documents none of which have wiring diagrams for the cabling I am sorting out the wiring 1 wire at a time. Issues like a wire going through 2 connectors means fun... Now I am playing with the cupola and have the brush box with no cables and no wiring diagram I am buzzing wires out to see which pins are going to what. Now does anyone know where I can get any information or diagrams. I also need to know if anyone does the connectors I have found a couple at "The Xmod Ltd" but at £25 I was wondering if anyone knew where I might source cheaper. Thanks in advanced

Hi Chris. is the oil filter removal achieved through the belly plate then?

Hi Robin, yes it is Lance.. Thanks for your post I am always willing to admit I am on a huge learning curve. i do agree that you should not go hacking holes without a very good reason. But should I not want to remove the engine to adjust the carb or replace the engine oil filter, then an appropriate small size hole and an appropriate size plate bolted on with heat shielding. to cover said hole did not seem a strange/ silly thing to do. However as I mentioned I have performed the carb adjustment without the need of doing either. the question is ( for now) academic.

HI All. Well I cut the pipe off in the gearbox bay. I drained the oil down and found that it was black and lumpy and also 4 litres short off the required amount. So I cleaned and refilled the gearbox with the correct amount and made a dipstick and was able to put the markings on... Should be in the correct place now

If I could buy humble pie I would. This morning I was out playing, had a road wheel to change. So I thought I did say I would have another go now I have seen some pictures at adjusting the idle speed.. Thankfully I did listen to you all as I lay down on the deck with my hand following the throttle links I found the idle screw. half a turn later, engine warmed up and idle now set to 650 RPM and is holding steady. Thank you all Oh and the road wheel was changed as well

I wish I had deep pockets, but at 4.5 miles to the gallon and a top permissible speed of 20 mph it costs me around £400 in petrol and of course the wear of the tracks on roads could add a couple of grand... maybe it will end up as a 4 wheel show