SirLanceUK

Dorry "Mr Hewes" can you give addy or someother way i cna track him down and chat to him?

That particular cable is an electrical cable that looks like it has been "squashed", I can make and engineer quite a lot of parts but

I have come across a L60 pack that is in a terrible state and will need a shed load of work doing to it, before I go any further I can see a couple of the cables had been mangled and will need replacing, even if everything else can be used so.... Does anyone know where I might find general spares for the Pack.. I have looked at listings on most of the "normal" suppliers... and example of one cable is V605135/3 - I have contacted a cable maker but I have a feeling that as a one - off

Hi Chris, Thanks for getting back to me and thanks for the offer of documentation. I must admit I have a few manuals here already but for some reason I often can't see the wood for the trees. In this case it was SirHC's diagram that showed me what was what, however your last comment made perfect sense as I have had a working Intercom for some while without the need of the rear batteries, but my circuit diagram shows no such power lead for the intercom. Lance

Just to close this thread off. A friend found the light guard at greenmachinesurplus.com (hope i am allowed to mention them) and have purchased said item. Cheers Lance

Thanks for the response Chris, I think SirHC's diagram explains where I need do be looking. It also explains what the RDC box actually does, but I appreciate people who take the time to answer questions.

Brilliant, that explains a lot and I know where to look, I did look there before but I am guessing I didn't check properly. Once again SirHC saves my bacon

As everyone knows I have a Spartan that i have been slowly working through trying to get most systems working, if not as the Army intended then fit for purpose. I have been working in the back getting a working Intercom and nor trying to get a working Radio, hence why I am asking questions about the Radio Distribution Box. Now on the circuit Diagram i have the RDU, Gen Panel, Dist Panel and Relay Box are all just "blank" boxes, they had the inputs ad outputs but not what the levels are, or what the levels might be. However that is not the question, On Socket 3 and 4 of the RDC (24 volt 4 pin socket) that is nothing connected, but in my RDC socket 3 had a 4 pin plug in it, which disappears in to the loom and in towards the front of the Spartan. I have buzzed through all the 4 pin plugs and sockets I can find any yet nothing seems to buzz through the cable that goes in to Socket 3 of the RDC. The only thing left for me to do now is undo the wiring loom and chase the cable to see where it goes, BUT before I do that I thought I would ask on here to see if anyone actually knew where I could find the other end. It's not at the Dist Panel or the Relay Box.

Thank you

Interesting topic. As a private owner, I haven't driven 1000's of miles. In that time i have had :- an Petrol engine replaced, only had 5 cylinders one had no compression at all, but the engine kept going. Starter motor seize solid due to the wrong type of glue on the bendix (apparently a batch of reconditioned starters all had the same issue) Couple of rubbers off the roadwheels - didn't notice any difference but swapped at my earliest convenience On a first parade discovered a track pin nut had come off - replaced the pin and nuts with a spare I carried there and then All my other issues have been due to my lack of knowledge and corrected after a it was explained to me. I did recover my friend and his Striker after the engine "died". We could restart it but it didn't run for very long. After a few choice words a person who knows what they were talking about was called in and the petrol pump was replaced, The second one in 2 years.

Just to close this off, Andrew's parts were exactly what i wanted and worked to perfection,

I registered my CVRT 5 yeas ago, and got various answers depending on who I talked to. It went from "you cant register that on the road" to "that's unusual I will see if I can help" the second person put me through to the technical department (the guys that write the regulations) and we had a really interesting 2 hour chat. The upshot was, and still is a far as i know, that the "43*" range are over the 2.55m width limit and can not now be registered for the road. So pleading ignorance in this case is your friend. I was also told various other things from other helpful "knowledgeable" people , but my advice is fill as little in as you can, they sent mine back clearly marked what i needed to fill in and with what. And if you don't succeed try again....

Required :- Just the 1, for the interior rear lights of my Spartan. I am sure they are common to a few other vehicles as well as CVRT's, I did get the Roof Light Positioning Ring from a totally different vehicle If you are in doubt the measurements are 3 3/4" outside Diameter 3" inside diameter 1 1/4" high NSN - 6220998814081 ( 6220-99-881-4081 ) Guard Roof Light No. 3 MK 1 FV518760 There must be 100's of these somewhere. I have met several people who say "I used to have a box full of them" the important part is "had". While TheXmod lists them, they are currently out of stock, thank you thexmod for the picture.

I have dragged out exactly what i am looking for anything with a hook at the end so i can restrain BV, Axe etc, SO i do think we are talking the same thing ,

yes please

I have not really found anything the same, the closest i got was something that had no way of "locking" the webbing in place (stop it sliding) so i have ordered those and something to lock the webbing. It wont be "authentic" but it might work till i can fabricate or get hold of the real thing, but i will let you know

please do, one or two will help

please feel free to ask, i am not looking for millions and will make them myself if i have to

Please can some one tell me where I can purchase, or has for sale (don't want) hooked buckles that go on the webbing to secure "loads". I have looked round the internet and can find nothing that looks like it (picture included) and it's the sort of thing people have and throw away. I am now resorting to fabricating some, 5 would be more than enough, even 1 would be good. Cheers Lance

Just thought I would update what I have found, not sure if it is right but it's what I found. The first picture is the inboard side where you can see the bolt which then goes into cone washer, with the cone pointing outward . The second picture shows the outboard side where you can se the cone washer, cone side pointing outward. You can just make out the bush, or pin, ( ID 5/8 IN OD 1 IN and length 4 IN). Why do you need "cone Washers" I have no idea as you can see by the second picture the cone washer has been "pulled" in to the casting of the training arm. I did ask a metal expert who confirmed that "copper alloy" is now Bronze (SAE660 Bronze Tube, is fine) but I am making the bush and cone washers out of stainless steel.

Thanks for that, it's a shame the diagram does not show that bush but looking at the picture it looks like the pin is steel. I do wonder then why they specify "cone washers" (Item 26) at each end rather than just a locknut.

Having done a bit more work on my Spartan came across a Damper arm on the rear right hand side (as you look at the back door) was totally missing. I managed to buy the arm but need to fit it between the the Armstrong Damper and the Torsion bar. I was advised to remove one of the other Damper arms and see how it all goes together. Unfortunately the bottom end of the rest of the Damper arms are really on there, and before I take a "larger" hammer to loosen them off, I thought i would look at the drawings, and having done so, now need to ask for your help. The bolt that holds the arm on to the torsion bar is UNF 5/8 IN x 5-3/16 IN long suggesting I need a bush with an ID 5/8 IN OD 1 IN and length 4 IN to hold the 2 parts together. The diagram seems to suggest that the bush is part 21 but I think that is already in the Damper arm and has an 1 IN ID leaving me with the need of this bush which is not in the diagram at all. If you look at the Messier Damper part 21 is listed as "Bearing Sleeve Copper Alloy 1 IN ID 1-1/4IN OD 1-3/4 IN O/A LG" Suggesting that a BUSH is required there and not on the drawings either. Now am I totally wrong ( would not surprise me) and can anyone help before I take a Larger hammer to one of the other dampers by either telling me where i am wrong or let me have a part number for the missing bush or can confirm the bush size and suggest a material for it (copper Alloy is a bit vague for my metal man, who would prefer me to say something like SAE660 Bronze Tube) I have had a another thought maybe Part 26 (washer) does say Washer flat S PHOS 0.656 IN ID 1.125 IN OD THK 0.250 IN 45 DEG CHAMFER ON ONE OUTSIDE EDGE and maybe you just have the chamfered edge against the inside and tighten it up and use the chamfers to keep the parts in relation to each other.

what can i say but a huge thank you for taking all that trouble. I am going to have great fun with my lathe making that part, Do the split pins play apart in all this? Now i cam make an adapter for my home made shaft puller and my newly purchased slide hammer.

When you take off the ‘top hat’ exposing the final drive shaft there is a threaded hole. This is the size I need. It just happens that the NBC screws that lock the rear door closed has the same thread and can be used to pull the final drive shaft out. yes the spring loaded pin that holds the ‘center’ shaft in position till I get the shaft out I have no idea how it goes together, so a diagram would enable me to fabricate something

That is a very good idea, forgot about slide hammers. I made a shaft puller to get out the main fan unit as there was not space to use a slide hammer, so went to that as my solution. All I need to make and adapter from 10mm to whatever the thread is on the final drive. Or if I do go the slide hammer route most seem to be metric and I would need to make an adapter but in either case I still need to know the size of the thread on the final drive. I am going back to my Spartan on Wednesday so can measure it then, unfortunately that means coming home making the adapter and returning at some future date .....