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Everything posted by 64EK26

  1. Hi Bit of a long shot but... Has anyone got any of these going spare ? Leaf spring is 2.5" wide Cheers Richard
  2. Hi I have wanted to restore an MW for a long time, so I finally took the plunge an bought an MWC that needs a lot of tlc. I know that it will take me a few years to complete it....... She is now tucked up in where not far from where I live and will able to take bits back home to work on them. Cheers Richard
  3. It’s been a little while since I posted... Finally got the engine running , sounds really nice and has good oil pressure (pressure guage reads a tad high) Ordered an Autosparks loom, which turns out to be for the early type dash, not the later one as per photo below. Autosparks are being very helpful, so I will eventually get what I want More furtling with front wing, bonnet etc. Making new tank doors etc Still looking for the following bits Pumps and filters Rear Spring top clips
  4. Hi At the RMP Museum (Royal Military Police Museum) we are restoring a Triumph TRW 499cc Twin We are looking for the Pannier Frames and Panniers anyone got any going spare ? Cheers Richard
  5. Finally got my rebuilt engine running... But I do have a few issues 1) There is leak on the carb where the choke assembly attaches to the main body. On the carb front does anyone have a copy of the Solex instruction book called "Self-starting Solex Carburettor 35 & 40 RZFAIP downdraught governor type with accelerating device instruction booklet” , the IWM have a copy but you can’t down load it Does anyone know what the suffixes on the 35RZFAIPO carbs mean ? and which ones are suitbale for an MW ? 2) The oil pressure is very low and the oil pressure warning light only goes off when the engine is revved slightly, oil does flow up to the rockerbox. I am currently running the engine with no advance retard mechanism and no oil/air bath filter and using 20w-30 running in oil – Obviously there could be many reasons for this. I am going to look at them in the following order a) Add felt seal on dipstick b) Re-clean the oil strainer, also check that the seal on the cover plate is good c) Double check oil level in sump d) Confirm that the distributor dog drive is fully engaged with the pump and is not just rubbing against it, possible cause of this is if the oil pump was pushed down a bit when the distributor was fitted. (If it was not engaged at all, there would be no oil pressure) e) Test oil pressure gauge f) Change oil to 30w Any other suggestions before take the oil pump out ? as this would seem the prime suspect
  6. 64EK26

    Bedford 28HP engine problem

    Thanks guys All sorted - it was a bad seal on the oil strainer cap Good oil pressure The pressure gauge reads a bit high so prbably about 25-30 psi on idle and increases a bit when revved Also the the carb has settled down and no leaks from the cold start(choke) Runs quite sweetly Onwards and upwards Cheers Richard
  7. 64EK26

    Bedford 28HP engine problem

    All the journals on the crankshaft were checked, all within the required tolerance and no ovality. With hindsight I should have carefully checked the clearance using plastigage or similar, they felt and looked fine.
  8. 64EK26

    Bedford 28HP engine problem

    Thanks Richard, 1) Cover plate is item 2b on my list 2) The crankshaft was polished and I re-used the shells, as these had no wear on them, the main problem was with the pistons, verly slight lip, and minor corrosion, so +0.020 re-bore and pistons. The engine is post war and was overhauled by bedford. I can only assume that the correct shells were fitted at that time. 3) I have ordered a new spring for the pump and will re-check the clearances, there was some wear on the pump, but though that it was OK (maybe I was wrong) 4) Oil feed pipes are connected to the rockers (bit of a fiddly route through the head) Cheers Richard
  9. 64EK26

    WW2 checkerplate strip

    Hi Does anyone know a supplier of WW2 style checker plate strip. The strip is 1. 5/8" wide . I am after 6 off 6" lengths and 4 off 12" lengths Cheers Richard
  10. 64EK26

    WW2 checkerplate strip

    Thanks Clive Will give you a call tommorrow Cheers Richard
  11. 64EK26

    WW2 checkerplate strip

    Thanks John I didn't know what it was called, now I know I have found this https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/25NOSE2__Pyramid_Non_slip_Nosing_35_x_5_x_3000mm Bit narrower than what I want, but will do fine
  12. 64EK26

    Rerubbering engine mounts

    Hi Is this a Polyurethane rubber ? (bit difficult to see from the data sheets) I am not familiar with Tilly engine mounts, have you bonded this "rubber" to the metal ? and is the rubber in shear or compression ? Polyurethane rubber is good in compression, but not so good in shear, also according to the datasheet is is not very resistant to petrol. Some photos of what you have done would be good Cheers Richard
  13. Hi I am looking for a pair of .... A as I can't make them myself Thanks Richard
  14. Realise I haven’t posted for a bit. So a quick update.... Trial fitting of cab Refurbing the radiator Making loads of bits Bonnet repair hinge Hoop sticks Trying to work out how to make sharp radius bends and tilt brackets (see photo below). I don’t suppose that anyone has any spare of these (I believe they are the same on morris’s) Repairing front panel more work on the engine Also making the drivers adjustable seat, the one on the left I borrowed from Pete Marshall as a pattern Still looking for the pumps and filters
  15. 64EK26

    Bedford MWD restoration

    (Not trying to hijack the thread) but.... This Book also has loads of photos of MW's and other ex British BEF vehicles in it
  16. 64EK26

    Bedford MWR 1943

    Hi Tomas Shame about your cylinder head, as David says you may be able to stitch weld it. I think that Pere Gaine (in the UK) has a good head for sale, but shipping to you would be a problem. Cheers Richard
  17. Hi Still looking for the pumps and filters for my MWC restoration, any leads would be helpful. Also if you haven't got one for sale, any chance of bringing one to War and Peace so I can take some detailed measurements, this is what they look like... Thanks Richard
  18. 64EK26

    Bedford MWR 1943

    Richard As far as I know the following post war registrations were allocated to Bedford MWR’s 44RC57 to 44RC99 70YS00 to 78YS36 20YT01 to 31YT16 Hence the vehicle in the photo is 20YT?? If you have any information on post war registration of Bedford MW’s I would be most grateful. The Chillwell census give details of the war time registration batches and the contract numbers (only for Army vehicles, I don’t know of an equivalent for RAF/RN vehicles) Are all the 'R' series registrations post war re-builds ?, war time rebuild have a Z numbers starting in 16 Cheers Richard
  19. 64EK26

    Bedford MWR 1943

    Richard F - Agree that the photo is post war, it will be 20YT?? . shame the tail board is not lifted up a bit to see the full reg. Tomas - any more photos from where this came from ? Cheers Richard
  20. 64EK26

    WS19-when introduced?

    Notes from Wireless for the Warrior Volume 2 Page WS19-5 Field trials 25th November 1940 First deliveries (WS19 Mk1) started in 1941 (no exact date) WS19 Mk2 developed in 1941, produced in quantity early 1942 WS19 Mk3 developed in 1942, believed to be issued early 1943 Canadian version first produced in Jan 1943 Wireless for the Warrior is a must have set of books for anyone interested in WW2 radio, still in print see http://www.wftw.nl/ordering.html Cheers Richard
  21. Hi As stated, I am after a drivers seat for my Bedford MWC restoration, could swop for I believe are QL seats Cheers
  22. Andy At the bottom of the doors, there is a metal strip that sits proud of the woodwork (not very clear in the photo). When the door skin is in place, the skin is trimmed to be about ½” proud of this metal strip. Clamp the strip to the door skin and gently tap round eventually forming a nice curve that is at right angle to the metal strip, now take it just past the right angle. The trick is to do it bend it a bit at a time, right the way round the door as you have shrink the metal around the curve. After you have done this turn the door over and gently tap it into place using the same technique as above. Finally with a suitable dolly knock it flat so the metal strip is squeezed inside the folded door skin. The inside now looks like this. Similar techniques are used to produce, the heat shield plate. In all cases I have used 1mm sheet steel, this can be formed fairly easily, 1.2mm steel is s lot lot harder (surprising what 0.2mm thickness makes. Also the smaller the radius the harder it is to fold nicely.
  23. 64EK26

    Bedfor mw cab gutter

    A couple of points... Danny’s MW , is a late MWC converted to a GS. Tomas’s is a late MWC (not that many chassis numbers away from Danny’s) The top board and “U” channel are secured differently. The rear side panels are the same and there are no bolts through these to secure the top board. Also no bolt through the “U” channel to the top board. On a GS there are two big “L” sections that are in line with the chassis rails. These are not present on an MWC. On a GS the top board is attached by coach bolts to this “L” section. It would make sense that on the back board that these are countersunk (As per Simon’s original boards). On the MWC, these “L” sections aren’t present (so how is the top board held securely in place ?) On another GS coach bolts are used (Can’t really tell if these are countersunk) The rearward facing lip of the “U” channel is screwed to the top edge of the top back board. Also the flanges on the end are screwed to the rear side panels In the storage bin there is another vertical support strip that attaches all the back boards together, not sure if this is an “L” section or not (this is also present on an MWC) I have no photos of this. Hope all this helps Cheers Richard
  24. 64EK26

    Bedfor mw cab gutter

    Hi Danny I have a couple of photos from Thomas Higgins (MWC restoation, same year as yours), these show holes in the rear of the "U" channel. also one for the bin support bracket On my MWC, I don't have the two lage "L" brackets on the back that bolt to the GS body, I do have a one rear upright that is to the rear of the bin, not sure what this attached to Hope these help
  25. Making slow progress... Doors now skinned Back to working in the engine tommorrow