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Everything posted by 64EK26

  1. Hi Glad to see that you have purged the tank of any fuel.... The above is very very important, you need to get a good clean oil/rust free surface. I prefer to use a large soldering iron as a blow lamp tends to oxidise material at the point where you are applying the solder. If you do use a blow lamp apply the heat a little way from the 'hole' you are trying to fill and let the solder flow. I have also used a large steel soldering iron, this is the type you heat up with blow torch before use. I would also suggest that to try filling a few holes in some test pieces Let us know how you got on Cheers Richard
  2. Hi Managed to get a new one from http://www.midlandautomotive.co.uk/2.html very helpful and at a sensible price Now fitted, the radiator took some time to shoehorn back in
  3. Hi I am looking for a replacement water pump for a Bedford TM type engine 8.2L 500 series for a Saxon APC. The part number I believe is 91044882, the pulley has a separate part number of 91092552. These are taken off the pump. I cannot check that these are correct as I do not have a copy of AESP 2815-K-060-721 Any leads would be useful, or any recommendations as to where I can get it refurbished would be most helpful Cheers Richard
  4. Pete Glad you like the thread, little steps done. These are two wilco baking tins trimmed down and placed back to back at a slight angle gives good corners. I will be filling these and the other muduard attachments with expanable foam to add to ridigity. Next on list is spare wheel support brackets 6mm andgle iron bent in various directions. (hopefully will end up looking like these)...
  5. Finished off the spare wheel support and the other special top (this was originaly gas welded on, but I am bolting mine one with spreader plate underneath) Also a trip to the blacksmiths to get the mudguard supports twisted up (will probably need to go again for final adjustments next is to finish off the small mudguard steps (makin these in the same way as the "special" top), should get this done this weekend Also finished off a new set of shock absorber pins
  6. Hi Martin 3 on eBay at the moment, this being the cheapest https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kent-Moore-Z8079-Bedford-Axle-Hub-Nut-Socket-Wrench/283389432300?hash=item41fb5391ec:g:brYAAOSwOttcbp4Y Cheers Richard
  7. Hi PCD of studs is appx 34cm Hole diameter for axle appx 28cm Overall width appx 30cm Offset measures from inside edge appx 27cm By the way they are F******** heavy ! Cheers Rihard
  8. Hi They are 10 stud, will try to measure them over the weekend. Measuring offset and width may be a bit more trick, the tyres used are Michelin 365/85R20 XZL Cheers Richard
  9. All now sorted thanks to Wally Duggan Cheers Richard
  10. Hi Have you tried Clive Elliot (fv1609) on the forum, he is the fountain of all knowledge on Humber Pigs Cheers Richard
  11. Hi Does anyone have a Saxon APC manual for sale, before I go and buy one off the internet Preferably one that covers the Bedford Engine version Thanks Richard
  12. More progress.... New mudguards arrived Started making the 'special' tops this one is for the spare wheel support and steps Next on list is making the supporting brackets out of 6mm thick angle and bar Still looking for pumps and filters
  13. David, I don't have one, they were some photos that were sent to me so I knew what I am looking for. So if Jeremey is making some reproductions I will probably have one Cheers Richard
  14. Hi Jeremey Good to see you at Newbury today .... (I didn't see this when I looked around) I think that there were various types, I was aware of the "fibre" type and the metal type. The only one I have photos os is this (I think it may be fibre) Cheers Richard
  15. Hi Glad you got them off OK Cheers Richard
  16. Thanks Wally Keep up the good work, it is very much appreciated and any news on B131 in the future would be good Cheers Richard
  17. Thanks Wally You must have been looking hard Do you know where B131 was ? Cheers Richard
  18. Hi I have seen several WW2 vehicles with rebuild plates on them that read “Ministry of Supply T.T.3(BR) This vehicle was vehicle was rebuilt to class I on dd/mm/yy By Army Auxiliary Workshop No. Bnnn” Come across workshop No. B131. B42 Is there a list of these workshops anywhere ? And what does the T.T.3(BR) signify ? Cheers Richard
  19. Hi – I think I have misled you a bit… Torque multipliers can be used for both undoing and doing up nuts. I have a cheap torque multiplier which has a high gearing ratio (1:78) so it fairly easy to over tighten, i.e. 1Nm in and 78Nm is applied (hence my comment earlier). They are relatively compact so for changing wheels in the field they are fine, as you don’t need to have an ‘industrial’ size torque wench or breaker bar. Torque multipliers are available with different gear ratios, from 1:3 upwards and decent ones are very expensive. When I got my MW for restoration, I could not remove the nearside wheel nuts, even when using a 3/4" drive and bouncing up and down on a 6 foot bit of scaffolding. An industrial electric impact hammer also had no effect; the last resort was a cheap torque multiplier which did the trick. Industrial electric impact hammers are expensive and the air driven ones need to be of high quality and use a lot of air. I agree with andym, that it is best to ‘break’ the lock first by ‘shocking’ it, you may still need to apply a considerable torque to fully undo the nut if it is very rusty. Not sure where you live; and if the vehicle is moveable (by the way vehicle are you working on), you may be better off taking it to your local garage/tyre fitters and let them slacken them for you using and industrial air impact gun. You could also try a mobile tyre fitters. I did this, before I got my ‘gadgets’ when trying to get some old land rover spilt rims apart, they had rusted solid. Cheers Richard
  20. Hi For really stuck wheel nuts etc I use a 3/4" drive torque multiplier, no more standing and jumping up an down on a scaffold bar. Do not use a torque muliplier for tightening them up as the torques they can apply are enormous and can shear the wheel studs. As noted above left hand threads normally have an L stamped on the nuts Also I have found that slightly tightening a nut before undoing it often helps to get them freed more easily Cheers Richard
  21. Hi Trying to sort out a modern regulator to replace the innards of a CAV 75BT-19X for my Bedford MW Has anyone used a Lucas RB108 mounted in the old regulator box and is this the correct way to wire it up ? Cheers Richard
  22. Hi Don't think they are a Bedford MW, the MW ones have three lift the dot fittings down leading(front) edge. I looked at these as I am after a pair for my MW Cheers Richard
  23. Still plodding along Tank hinges fitted More trial fitting of panels etc. Wiring loom nearly sorted Near side wing repaired, along with a load of "just jobs". The "just jobs" are the ones that seem to take for ever to do but need to be done. Now I know that all the bits basically fit, the are all coming off to be painted. The next big thing to trial fit is the water tank, when this is done, I can trial fit the mudguards (hopefully these arrive in the next few weeks). My target was to get the truck ready for Normandy this year, unfortunately this won't happen, I have got too much to do and I am not going to rush it. Will keep you posted Cheers Richard
  24. Hi There are a couple of good videos of Austin Champs wading I think that these are at the same facility https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUXkbT_UpsA and a a later one Cheers Richard
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