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64EK26 last won the day on September 2 2018

64EK26 had the most liked content!

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About 64EK26

  • Rank
    Staff Sergeant

Personal Information

  • Location
    Fareham Hants
  • Interests
    Series Land rovers, valve radios (espically Larkspur)
  • Occupation
    Recently Retired (yipee)

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  1. All now sorted thanks to Wally Duggan Cheers Richard
  2. Hi Have you tried Clive Elliot (fv1609) on the forum, he is the fountain of all knowledge on Humber Pigs Cheers Richard
  3. Hi Does anyone have a Saxon APC manual for sale, before I go and buy one off the internet Preferably one that covers the Bedford Engine version Thanks Richard
  4. More progress.... New mudguards arrived Started making the 'special' tops this one is for the spare wheel support and steps Next on list is making the supporting brackets out of 6mm thick angle and bar Still looking for pumps and filters
  5. David, I don't have one, they were some photos that were sent to me so I knew what I am looking for. So if Jeremey is making some reproductions I will probably have one Cheers Richard
  6. Hi Jeremey Good to see you at Newbury today .... (I didn't see this when I looked around) I think that there were various types, I was aware of the "fibre" type and the metal type. The only one I have photos os is this (I think it may be fibre) Cheers Richard
  7. Hi Glad you got them off OK Cheers Richard
  8. Thanks Wally Keep up the good work, it is very much appreciated and any news on B131 in the future would be good Cheers Richard
  9. Thanks Wally You must have been looking hard Do you know where B131 was ? Cheers Richard
  10. Hi I have seen several WW2 vehicles with rebuild plates on them that read “Ministry of Supply T.T.3(BR) This vehicle was vehicle was rebuilt to class I on dd/mm/yy By Army Auxiliary Workshop No. Bnnn” Come across workshop No. B131. B42 Is there a list of these workshops anywhere ? And what does the T.T.3(BR) signify ? Cheers Richard
  11. Hi – I think I have misled you a bit… Torque multipliers can be used for both undoing and doing up nuts. I have a cheap torque multiplier which has a high gearing ratio (1:78) so it fairly easy to over tighten, i.e. 1Nm in and 78Nm is applied (hence my comment earlier). They are relatively compact so for changing wheels in the field they are fine, as you don’t need to have an ‘industrial’ size torque wench or breaker bar. Torque multipliers are available with different gear ratios, from 1:3 upwards and decent ones are very expensive. When I got my MW for restoration, I could not remove the nearside wheel nuts, even when using a 3/4" drive and bouncing up and down on a 6 foot bit of scaffolding. An industrial electric impact hammer also had no effect; the last resort was a cheap torque multiplier which did the trick. Industrial electric impact hammers are expensive and the air driven ones need to be of high quality and use a lot of air. I agree with andym, that it is best to ‘break’ the lock first by ‘shocking’ it, you may still need to apply a considerable torque to fully undo the nut if it is very rusty. Not sure where you live; and if the vehicle is moveable (by the way vehicle are you working on), you may be better off taking it to your local garage/tyre fitters and let them slacken them for you using and industrial air impact gun. You could also try a mobile tyre fitters. I did this, before I got my ‘gadgets’ when trying to get some old land rover spilt rims apart, they had rusted solid. Cheers Richard
  12. Hi For really stuck wheel nuts etc I use a 3/4" drive torque multiplier, no more standing and jumping up an down on a scaffold bar. Do not use a torque muliplier for tightening them up as the torques they can apply are enormous and can shear the wheel studs. As noted above left hand threads normally have an L stamped on the nuts Also I have found that slightly tightening a nut before undoing it often helps to get them freed more easily Cheers Richard
  13. Hi Trying to sort out a modern regulator to replace the innards of a CAV 75BT-19X for my Bedford MW Has anyone used a Lucas RB108 mounted in the old regulator box and is this the correct way to wire it up ? Cheers Richard
  14. Hi Don't think they are a Bedford MW, the MW ones have three lift the dot fittings down leading(front) edge. I looked at these as I am after a pair for my MW Cheers Richard
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