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wheado

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wheado last won the day on April 18

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  1. Hi Coombed. I've followed your design on The Jago owners Facebook page. (Though it might be you.) Your welding is very good. Desk jockey Engineers, like me, can only look on and weep. I'd did consider making my own A frame, but it turned out cheaper to buy a Ford GPW replica and modify it. If I had access to some decent tools it would have been a no brainer. Looking forward to seeing how you verified alignment of the shock mounts.
  2. Hi Coombed. The parts came for Jeep Parts UK. The rear cross member can be welded to the Jago chassis with out modification. To locate I measured the mounting holes in the body to the back and then checked against those in the chassis only to find that I could have just pushed it up behind the rear roll bar stay outriggers . (Oh well better to check). Weld in place, prime and paint. Simple. The A frame is a GPW one ( Jagos after all are most ford based), but it need modifying. the Jeep A frame is both too wide and too long to fit the Jago chassis. I cut v notches in the areas shown in the picture and reformed the bends to suit the narrower Jago chassis. The cut of the excess length. Once I was happy I made the pintle hook plate out of some 5mm plate and used it to hold the A frame in position before tack welding the revised bends. Then its a simple case of removing the frame welding up and dressing the welds. I decided not to weld the A frame to the chassis because I'd already painted it the chassis when I decided I wanted to remove the Jago overhang. (inspired by Dan 123 and a number of others Willy Jago's shown on the forum.) So I opted for Rivnts, M10, 4 per side. More that capable of taking the max toeing weight of a Jago. If I were to tackle this again I'd serious consider revising the whole back end to accommodate shorter rear springs. Made progress so will post what the old girl looks like now. Remember there's no wrong way with a kit car. As long as the engineering is sound and safe we can be truly individual.
  3. Bonnet rubbed down and painted. Bonnet welting fitted using bifricated rivets. (So much better than screws.)
  4. Glassed in to bonnet a willys hinge this evening. Secured with 5 off M6 counter sink screws initally to get position correct. Then welded on a extension plate with 50mm holes this allows the weight of the bonnet on the hinge to be spread over a large area and ensure a really strong bond. Glassed hinge to modified sandero bonnet ( hump temoved). Next job trim off excess, rub down rough edges. flip bonnet, grind away glass around screw heads and glass in. They should be invisible when finished and the hinge fixed solid as a rock.
  5. Did you finish yours Dan? It was your posts that inspired me to chop up the Sandero Jago and start this long process.
  6. Can't believe it's taken so long to update my progress. Poor weather and work stopped play. However, lockdown has its advantages. Managed to paint and fit front wings, grab handles, grill, steering. Painted willys windscreen. Started modifying bonnet to accept willys hinge. Its finally starting to like a vehicle.
  7. Finally after weeks of shite weather, decorating and helping sons with there wants I said NO, i'm going to the garage. After some cutting an shutting, running out of gas mig welding, having to grind out hydrogen embrittled weld , birds nesting the welding wire. It felt like I'd fallen out with the Engineering Gods. But today, Willys A frame is in and painted. So please with it. Bolt left out to prove the alignment was spot on. Oh and made the pintle hook bracket and back plate from 5 mm plate, So my more satisfying than buying then. Next post will show the body going on.
  8. Mazzamagoo. The gearbox end is the ford circlip type, if your using a Willys Jeep Speedo, it s the 5/8 x 18 Basically work out the length bu using either the old ford cable or an old curtain wire. Then give these guys a ring. https://speedycables.com/speedometer-cables/ Do forget to get the speedo re-calibrated at the same time. Even with 14" wheel the speedo is way out.
  9. Hi Dan. Hope your still on here and following the people that you've inspired. Love to see any progress you've made. Finally followed your lead and cut the rear bumper out. Always stressed over how to reinstate the integrity of the chassis. My solution is shown in the pictures. Repro Willys rear cross member welded in to stop excessive flex. In process of fitting Ford GPW pintle hook V brace to complete the transformation. Will post pics when I finish.
  10. WELCOME COMMENTS FROM THE GENUINE MV PEOPLE ON US "willys wanabees." But love the scene whole MV thing.
  11. Well finally made some progress. Stone chipped underside and filler primed body..
  12. Well finally made some progress. Stone chipped underside and filler primed body..
  13. Hi Mazzamagoo, sorry for the delay been really busy both at work and on the jeep. Although to look at it you'd be pushed to find out where. (The dreaded filling and sanding phase). I've inverted the body tub, cleaned the underside, cut out the pintle hook recess , per the picture below, and i'm now contemplating modification to the chassis to fit a Willys Jeep rear cross member. I'll post some picture once I have something worth looking at.
  14. Hi and welcome. Left hand drive coversion is quite straight forward. Just remember that the jago chassis is not configured to mount the peddles and brake master on the left. So, some chassis mods will be necessary if you want t do it properly. Oh, and the clutch and Speedo cable will need to be lhd specific.
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