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Boley

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Posts posted by Boley

  1. 1 hour ago, Lenham classics said:

    Hi there we have a grn6 thornycroft engine if u are still looking .

    IMG_20180614_153634.jpg

    I would be interested but I'm located on the west coast of Ireland and shipping would be expensive. I'll have a look into prices and get back to you. Did i come across this on e-bay, biggest concern for me is if there are any cracks in the blocks or heads.

    Thanks

  2. 18 hours ago, cosrec said:

    seem to remember but not 100% sure in front of steer box on depth of chassis and believe some digits obscured by that big plate with two holes in also on a riveted plate under passenger side wheel arch on chassis although this barely readable 40 years ago

    Thanks #cosrec 

    I have someone coming to sandblast the chassis this week so I'll give those areas a check when the wheels are off.

     

     

     

  3. 18 hours ago, cosrec said:

    from memory the problem with them was even with engine and rad drain cocks open about 4" of water was left in the block. some of the reconditioned spare motors were dynometer tested for oil pressure/compression. Others were bench tested filled with water. before being sprayed that light blue green colour. then crated. the water filled  ones all cracked in storage in the winter of 67. the dealer who sold us our big ben opened 3 crates before he found a good one. 

     

    I'll check out the price but might be better with what I have, the cracks aren't internal and will be repairable, if I decide to change it out I'll give you a shout but I will probably stick with my own engine.

    Thanks

  4. 18 hours ago, attleej said:

    Dear All,

    Since the engine is fed by an oil bath air filter it may still be quite good.  It would use quite a lot of petrol to wear it out! Does it still turn over easily?  Has it got six even compressions?  I would only give up on it if it has been run for a while and still does not have even compressions

    My comment is that large petrol engines can benefit hugely from retro fitting electronic fuel injection (EFI) and there are several 'DIY' systems available now.  I am working on a system for the REME museum's Conqueror ARV.  The reduction in fuel consumption is noticeable between the Conqueror and the Centurion.  I hope to be able to report to the forum results from the latest iteration.

    The carburettor system on a big engine is very crude.  However, the designer will have been very careful to ensure that the engine always runs a little bit rich in order to eliminate the risk of burning out the pistons.  EFI can ensure that the mixture is always correct and optimal. EFI normally has Cranking Enrichment, After Start Enrichment, and Cold Start enrichment so starting and cold running is much better.  The Meteor in the Conqueror always starts directly after about three revolutions if it is going to start at all.  It is also possible to retrofit EFI quite discretely.

    Once I have perfected the system for the Conqueror I will share all that I have learned on this and other forums.  I will be very happy to share what I have found out and provide advice on a pro bono basis.

    John

     

     

     

    The engine is running perfect and starts first turn every time, I haven't checked the compression as I dont have a gauge but I might borrow one and see.

    very interesting fitting EFI to an engine like this and I would be keen to see how it works out for you, it would be worth fitting to this as the 2 carburetor system is very crude and can't be very accurate to set up.

    looking forward to hearing how it goes..

     

  5. 4 minutes ago, guy66 said:

    The dealer is D. van Dam and the engine is in there Herkenbosch warehouse ,

    they have a website but the engine is not on it, www.dvandam.nl 

    I have now links with this dealer .

    Guy

    It is very tempting but I don't want to spend too much and I have a feeling an engine that is still in a pallet would be too expensive. Good to know in case I find major problems with my engine.

    They have a good website.

    Thanks

     

  6. No leaks into pistons or sump which is great news, the rad housing was cracked and 90% blocked so had to remove it. I’ll give it a try when I get the rad back on. Good to know this works as some of the stuff on the market isn’t great.

  7. 41 minutes ago, ploughman said:

    Metal stitching is quite common in Railway preservation circles.

    The firm linked have worked on stitch repairs to steam cylinders on locos.

    https://www.metalockengineering.com/en/typical-repairs/metal-stitching/

    Good to know there are firms specializing in these repairs, I think it would be a job best left to the professionals. 

    For now I will do a temporary repair and maybe in the future I can lift the cab off and remove the block.

    Thanks

  8. 2 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

    I made a 1/76 scale scratchbuilt model of a Big Ben cargo about 40 years ago, just found it, a little dusty. It bears the number and markings of one that came in the Workshops at that time, never saw another one in army service after that.

    Thats amazing Richard its exactly like the picture from the drivers handbook ,very well done.

    Would you sell this I would be very interested.

    Thanks 

    IMG-4965.jpg

    IMG-4966.jpg

  9. 7 hours ago, cosrec said:

    May have put you off with winch. The winch is a fantastic piece of kit extremely power full plus smooth and controllable. i was trying to hint that if you use it and the chassis rears up do not try tethering it down with a crawler or some thing at front end it will damage the chassis big style (guess how i Know ?????)

    Just had a look at the winch and found a plate with Turner manufacturing limited, Made in England. battery died and I couldn't get a picture but will get some later in the week.

    Good to know the cab comes off in one piece, If I decided to strip the engine this would be the only way to get it out.

    Thanks

  10. Interesting, had a look at a few videos and it doesnt look too bad, I don't think I could make it any worse. My biggest concern is the head, when I stopped drilled the crack it seemed very thin in places, about an eight of an inch. I might remove one of the brass plugs and see what thickness it actually is. It could be worth a try and would be a nice permanent repair. Thanks

  11. I had looked it up online and it looks quite specialized, the areas where its cracked are thin and I don't think its something I would attempt so I would have to strip the engine and send for repair.

    I may consider at a later stage but hopefully get a season or two out of a temporary repair with a resin, I was considering Belzona 1111 but mixed reviews on it.

  12. Since mid January, 3-4 months. I work full time so only get a chance in the evenings and weekend. Its the first I have ever tackled a restoration and I didn't think there would be so much involved but it has been great. I can't believe how its in such good shape, these Thornycrofts were built of quality material and to a high standard, a credit to the workmanship in that era.

    IMG_4887.jpg

    IMG_4893.jpg

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