Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About IAN_B

  • Rank

Personal Information

  • Location
    Arcadia, NSW, Australia
  • Interests
    Restoration of trucks, tractors & stationary engines
  • Occupation
    Retired in 1998
  • Homepage

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Here is a photo of the shackles and bolts for the front axle of our International truck project. The holes were very badly elongated, and we chose to bore them out until true, press in solid plugs, then drill them at the correct centres again. We think it will work. You can see the eccentricity of the inserted plugs quite readily in the photo. Ian
  2. Looks like you filled in the entire corner with brass. I have done the same job by locating a piece from a similar flange, cut the corner off and matched the two pieces together to a reasonable degree, then brazed them together. Are these pieces the water passage between the two cylinder castings? Ian
  3. We are restoring a 1918 International truck, and have found the original Timken bearings in the gearbox still available. However, the rear hubs had Hyatt bearings that were in a very bad way, and when we surprisingly found the bore diameter to be 100mm, we were able to adapt pairs of 32211 (100 x 55 x 27) tapered roller bearings and made sleeves for the axles. 32211 were available in a range of qualities, and we opted for ones costing only AUD25 each. Our truck will travel maybe 5Km per year and never on public roads. There is something to be said for metric over imperial bearings on price. The International has planetary drives in the rear wheels, so the hubs are free running on the axles.
  4. First time I had heard of this book, however at the prices being asked will not add it to my library. Nevertheless it would be a good read, I am sure. Ian
  5. My 1938 Lanz Bulldog has imperial threads with metric heads. Ian
  6. When I had a bit of an attempt at getting off the manifolds, I was amazed how tight the threads were in the nuts and bolts of the day - a much closer tolerance than today's offerings, on top of the Aussie dust of course. They were also so close to the castings that I was unable to use anything other than an open ended spanner, risking round the nuts. Oxy - acetylene is the answer, though perhaps not near the aluminium inlet manifold. Glad it is shaping up well! Ian
  7. Looks like your stars are aligned! Ian
  8. Great to see your project under way. I will follow it with interest. Ian
  9. I have seen a few starting aids using engines or geared starter motors. The main thing to be aware of is the immense reactionary torque. They have to be secure - just holding a battery ratchet driver will turn you somersaults! Ian
  10. I mentioned previously the similar problem we were experiencing with our 1932 Leyland Cub truck, and it appears to have been solved by fitting hotter spark plugs. Although it seemed to be idling satisfactorily, a close listen at the exhaust revealed otherwise. The hotter plugs have overcome this and the manifold vacuum reading is much better. Our man recommends you use the hottest plugs you can obtain, as these engines are often run for short periods (not that yours has run for long at all!) and may rarely reach 'self-cleaning' operating temperatures. This results in sooting up rapidly, causing spark leakage over the insulators under cylinder pressures. Ian
  11. Just realised the pdf file is a bit useless, so here it is as a jpg. ian
  12. Here is yet another timing diagramme for an early Australian made engine. It is just another example, I guess. On the question of volatility of modern fuels, when unleaded petrol was mandated here in the late 80's, it would not run vintage engines satisfactorily, continuously fouling spark plugs. It was 91RON, which is still the main fuel here (the worst in the world!). We have to use premium grades 95 or 98RON for our hobby machines, at significant cost premium. It is generally held they are LESS volatile, being formulated for fuel injection rather than evaporative use via carburettors. Ian Timing diagram.pdf
  13. Congratulations to all! Great to see and hear it running. Does the magneto have impulse fitted (I don't remember if this was mentioned previously)? We have a couple of tractors fitted with impulse magnetos, and for starting require just one pull over compression, very much easier than having to turn it over many times, and less likely to cause injury. Hope you sort out the lack of throttle response. Again, we have a similar problem with our 1932 Leyland Cub, and after extensive tests checking timing, vacuum, compression pressures and carbie cleanout, still have not nailed it down. We are going to fit a new set of spark plugs as a last resort, not that this is likely to be your problem. Ours has been running for a number of years on the existing plugs, and they are sooted up somewhat. Ian
  14. What a disappointment! We were looking forward to a video of it running. You are fortunate in one thing - every time I have to dismantle anything I always seem to destroy the gasket involved, which just makes for more work. Being 9 hours ahead of you, I shall check with great anticipation tomorrow morning. Ian
  • Create New...