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About IAN_B

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  • Location
    Arcadia, NSW, Australia
  • Interests
    Restoration of trucks, tractors & stationary engines
  • Occupation
    Retired in 1998
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  1. What are "feathers behind the hex heads"?
  2. I've never seen a 7" rule before!
  3. I found when attempting to remove the manifolds that the threads were incredibly tight, but I assisted with some heat. though not near aluminium. There was very small clearance to the castings, too, so a ring spanner could not be used.
  4. You were more fortunate than we were with our International springs. We were unable to obtain replacement leaves of the original dimensions and had to settle for the nearest metric width and thickness, necessitating a little judicious grinding to fit the dumb iron width. Ian
  5. Our wheelwright demonstrated the exact same method as the video on one of our visits, but it can only be done up to about 1 1/2" tyre width. For our truck wheels, we took the rims only, to a retreader who wound on rubber in a continuous strip to the desired total thickness, then cured it in an autoclave above 200C. It was then spun with an abrasive wheel to grind it to shape. We then delivered the re-rubbered rims and centres to the wheelwright to make the timber centres. He imported American Ash from USA already steam formed to the specified radius for the felloes, and he imported American hickory for the spokes which he turned and sized himself. Ian
  6. Our newly rebuilt wheels are now in our possession. Here they are on display during our Australia Day open day at our heritage site where the 1918 International truck is being restored.
  7. Drying is far from quick - touch dry in at least 24 hours, fully dry in much more. I have seen none of the effects you mention, but my experience is limited to metal. it seems to be as much a penetrant as a coating, and a little goes a long way. Ian
  8. Just noticed your tongue in cheek comment! The "toothed ring" is the planetary drive inside the rear wheel hubs, a feature of International trucks from 1915 till about 1923. Ours has a 13:53 ratio, which enables the diff and gearbox to be lighter in construction and lower ratios because some of the reduction occurs in the hubs. Ian
  9. We certainly face that dilemma and have been canvassing suggestions. Some examples of these trucks have the entire wheels, spokes and all, painted "International red", which we are using for the chassis and accessories. This would be a sacrilege in my opinion, so a natural finish of some kind is required. I have long used boiled linseed oil, mineral turpentine and Terebine (40+40+20%) (which I dub 'linturbine') as a treatment on old cast iron on stationary engines, but it had not occurred to me that it might also be suitable for timber. I will do a trial. We expect the wheels to be complete in a week or so, and I will post more photos then. Ian
  10. Probably not very relevant, but here is progress on our new wheels as of Tuesday. Ian
  11. We have wheels of similar construction on our 1918 International. New ones are being made right now, having already had new rubber vulcanised onto the rims. Our wheelwright will heat the steel bands and fit them over the felloes, with the finished outside diameter of the steel band about 1/8" greater than the rim ID. He will then heat the rim sufficiently for it to fit over the steel band and then cool it to achieve a tight fit. The rubber is vulcanised at about 200C, and with 29" inside diameter, he believes only moderate heat will be required to expand the rims sufficiently. We are placing our trust in his expertise! Ian
  12. I see that you have prepared the springs for cleaning. Do you not dismantle them and clean all the leaves? We are at this stage on our 1918 International project, and I had thought we should take them apart. It does of course involve a lot of additional work. Would you recommend any form of lubrication between the leaves if they have been disassembled - we had to replace several leaves of our front springs? Ian
  13. Could that be a frost crack? Ian
  14. Here is a photo of the shackles and bolts for the front axle of our International truck project. The holes were very badly elongated, and we chose to bore them out until true, press in solid plugs, then drill them at the correct centres again. We think it will work. You can see the eccentricity of the inserted plugs quite readily in the photo. Ian
  15. Looks like you filled in the entire corner with brass. I have done the same job by locating a piece from a similar flange, cut the corner off and matched the two pieces together to a reasonable degree, then brazed them together. Are these pieces the water passage between the two cylinder castings? Ian
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