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Gordon_M last won the day on June 18 2018

Gordon_M had the most liked content!

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About Gordon_M

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  • Birthday 08/22/1952

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  • Location
    Anywhere between Falkirk and Aberdeen, depending on the day ...
  • Interests
    Sno-Cats, Dodge trucks, Amphibians & Rail conversion
  • Occupation
    Makes oil rigs for fun and profit
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  1. Very nice. It will look great when the rest matches, and I'd be surprised if the original paintwork didn't have the odd run too.
  2. Interesting that the die is marked NS, National Special, rather than UNS, Unified National Special, so it is liable to be as old as the thread you are gauging. That's probably why it didn't say UNS on the advert too. I wonder if those endlessly complex trade laws would stop you making and selling something like that as NS these days, with only UNS permissible?
  3. It looks like you could use the Martian type. The male threads would match both ends, they have just substituted a coarser thread where it runs through the bumper to a locknut, so one coarse thread locknut and you are done. It is quite possible they went to a coarse thread at the bumper bore transition exactly because the fine thread locknuts used to seize up and strip all the rest of the thread - just like yours did.
  4. While I'm on I think that is the original head too - be great for a paperweight. 8-)
  5. Well good luck with it. If you get stuck just drop any other flathead six Chrysler in, they will all fit. Don't throw that one away though, as the chassis it came in is still driving in Scotland.
  6. Am I right in thinking this is the T112-60001 block Paul, December 1941? If it is, then I believe it is the very first military T112 block - It came in the very first military T112 chassis 81104100, a WC 36 Carryall, so there is a historic edge to it. Civilian T112 blocks started T112-00001 in September 1941, so I think the '6' prefix was the identifier for the military blocks with external oil filters and so on. Certainly no other T112 block have seen had the '6' prefix. It came to me with the T72 block I have in the TD20. I took one look at that one ( it was the factory original block for that TD20 chassis ) and just freighted it down to a well known Dodge specialist in the south of England. They stripped it completely, got a machine shop to bore and sleeve it, fit new guides and hardened valve seats all round, then reassembled and returned it to me. Basically valve guides you could do, but if you are going to get valve seats done, getting the guides replaced and bores sleeved to nominal is no big deal. Any other T112 block you can find will have worked just as hard and have as many problems, I'm sure. Let me know how you get on with it. My mother-in-law was quite scathing when she saw it sitting dry in the garage and got me to fill the bores with waste oil. 8-)
  7. I don't know in detail, but I know a lot of new stuff was procured and fitted. For example, a quantity of Carryall rear door side latch mechanisms were made new, presumably in Norway. As I understand it all the axes, mattocks and shovels were discarded and replaced, and no, they weren't wasted, as I have a set at home. 8-)
  8. Norwegian trucks only tend to come in two varieties, those that were completely stripped down for a production line rebuild, and those that were entirely original. Your friend's truck has been rebuilt at least once, maybe twice, but some of the other Dodges like their Canadian APTs had very few miles on them, right up to disposal, and had just been given normal preventative maintenance. They were obsoleted first too, being non-standard. I talked to a couple of Norwegians that were involved in the rebuilding around Bergen, I think in the 1980's
  9. Sounds right, moves well, needs that DBG though. 🤢
  10. I've seen one very similar to that. My local scrappy had three tired Saracens he hauled off a range, I think in Ayrshire, when it was tidied up. One of them just had four wheels with the centre station on each side blanked off. He was told it was the main observation vehicle for the range and a lot more mobile than a standard one. As I remember it had standard rear doors though.
  11. I'm sure we have seen that before, maybe a year ago, and the price was similarly - interesting then. It'll be two hundred years old before they find a buyer at that price.
  12. Salt water would go everywhere - pressure washing would get rid of a lot of it. I did hear that people who have to deal with this regularly have been known to recover the vehicle from salt water, and then flood it again in fresh water, then start the drying out process. It would be essential to clean out every void, seal, and cavity. When I got my DUKW the axle hubs, pillow block and so on were packed with grease just to stop more than trace amounts of water getting in
  13. Dodges take a bit of killing. I recall one Command Car chassis I saw that was down to cardboard-thin after being used on a beach for decades, but one immersion in salt water shouldn't kill it. Really good pressure wash, hubs off, diffs out, drain and flush transmission and transfer case, wash and flush brake lines and components. You would probably pull the sump and really clean out the engine internally. Distributor, generator, and starter into a bucket of paraffin at least, if not a full strip and clean. Regulator box should clean up OK, I can really only think of instruments as probably cheaper to replace than rebuild.
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