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Gordon_M last won the day on June 18 2018

Gordon_M had the most liked content!

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About Gordon_M

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  • Birthday 08/22/1952

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    Anywhere between Falkirk and Aberdeen, depending on the day ...
  • Interests
    Sno-Cats, Dodge trucks, Amphibians & Rail conversion
  • Occupation
    Makes oil rigs for fun and profit
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  1. There's a pile of information out there on these 41-B-1640 boxes. They seen to have been made by several manufacturers, Kennedy and Simonsen being the most common, and they are mostly associated with USAAC, USAAF, USAF, USN, and NAF ( Naval Air Force ). They do not appear to have been in common service with the US Army for whatever reason. I have several, and they are really heavy even when empty, to the point that a single lift handle must have been useless when loaded. The G503 Tool Section is loaded with information and examples: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=215765 I would normally expect an example with embossed USN to be post WW2, but the socket tray lid layout of your find is definitely WW2 type ( pre-WW2 the top trays were empty, even blank, with no lids or dividers, during WW2 they normally had socket dividers and one side had a lid, some time post-WW2 both of the top section got lids, though probably different manufacturers changes at different times ) It may be worth stripping or sanding the black paint to check for original stencilling.
  2. It looks "good enough". but sometimes good enough- isn't. If you weren't intending to use it immediately I'd put it up on its side and load it a little to encourage the curve to come out. Definitely agree with checking the rivets, particularly around that third crossmember where I would have expected some to move.
  3. What do you think of losing just enough rivets to get that third crossmember out of the chassis, then straighten and reinforce each chassis rail in turn, then refit the third crossmember?
  4. It isn't my speciality of truck type, but I'm reasonably sure the cab type as originally supplied has a lot to do with it. Export trucks of that period were commonly supplied knocked down as cab and chassis, chassis / cowl, or chassis with windscreen cowl, intended to be bodied locally. I'd guess the original LRDG trucks may have been chassis / cowl with flat dash, whereas the modern replicas are cut down full cabs that had the curved dash when they left the factory. Since the LRDG were using whatever they could get, and the dash would be of no importance, it is quite possible that they cut down some full cabs too, meaning that there could be original LRDG trucks with either configuration.
  5. Somewhat clearer. The T222 number is the frame number, no doubt, and 2/41 has to be the date, and the small shield is the inspectors acceptance stamp too. The 910xxxx number is the formal chassis number, so the method of marking and location has to be different between Canadian and US output. As long as you have one of this on the V55 you'll be fine. 8-)
  6. No problem Pete. The chassis part number was machine stamped and is always clear and legible, the chassis number itself seems to have been stamped by someone with a number block, and I'm guessing that after he had stamped the first thousand chassis in a shift his enthusiasm was maybe a little low. The chassis number can be really difficult to see as it was often faint to begin with.
  7. Well that's odd. US Dodges were all stamped on the left front frame rail side, near the front spring, front hanger, about 1" down from the top edge of the rail. Numerals were about 3/8" high and often not very enthusiastically stamped. In addition the frame PART number was machine stamped mid-wheelbase on the right side. Both Detroit and LA plant trucks were all this way, ( I have one of each ) and remember Canadian trucks were geographically not that far from the Detroit plant. It appears that the frame number stamping was done somewhere on the production line - the only number on the frame when it arrived from the chassis plant was the part number. I'd expect the same chassis plant, or plants, to service the US and Canadian facilities too. Top edge on the back of the frame rail sounds wrong, maybe re-stamped during a rebuild or for British post war registration confirmation. I'd expect it on the front somewhere. Remember the Canadian plant also supplied piles of one ton 4 x 2 panel vans and the like, and the panel van body would completely cover any number stamped on the top of the frame rail anywhere rear of the scuttle. I also remember the Canadian Dodge D8A T212 had an acceptance stamp on the side of the left rear chassis rail, basically just round from where your chassis number is. There is an image of that stamping in one of those Canadian Chrysler wartime promotional books. Just out of idle curiosity, have a really hard look on the side of the left front frame rail near the front hanger.. If there is a different number stamped there you have a 1940's ringer 8-)
  8. Well if the cam is OK and all the valves just happened to stick at once, I think you should be looking at the oil supply to that area.
  9. Ah, that would be the cylinder right at the front then, immediately behind the cam driven gear? ( some people number the cylinders from the firewall end ... ) I think you have a broken camshaft, and the break is between cylinders 1 & 2, so cylinder one is opening its valves normally and giving some compression, but the other five cylinders are on strike - or at least their valves are. Hold the driven camshaft gear and try to rock it slightly - it should feel a bit more wobbly that you would expect - it may even pull out a little if you tug on it. The slightly less bad news is because you have a flathead / side valve, the pistons have not come up and wrecked the valves, which is what would have happened with an overhead valve engine.
  10. I'm thinking something simple but not obvious, like a broken camshaft, or camshaft not driving
  11. If this was at a barrage balloon site, I'd think the vehicle with the tank would be there to scavenge the gas when they brought the balloon down, rather than waste it. The unit behind the cab would be an engine driven pump.
  12. I don't think so. Those hubs would have metal and wood centres and the load of sighing them there might be problematic. If I'm seeing that right, the spoked wheels are just acting to retain the lifting ropes, which go through the wheel spokes and presumably under the axles. If you were lifting from the outer grooves on the hubs it would be near impossible to keep all four in place long enough to get a safe lift.
  13. If they are all branded as USA made I'd stick with them. You can of course buy a complete new set of high quality bearings, but that may cost a surprising amount. Spend some of the savings on seals, axle end gaskets, and the like
  14. I'd stick with those if they are in good condition, US-made bearings, and the low sequence number suggests they may be original. Where did your truck come from, or via? If it is straight from the USA or via Norway, those are probably higher quality than many modern replacements.
  15. If it was free to pivot in the chassis brackets it would be fine. Trapping or restricting it wouldn't work - the first time something bottomed out it would shear. I'd guess both sides would pivot freely - it would help the high-speed cornering too. 🤐
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