sprocket316

Many thanks fv1609.

I'm not a military vehicle expert, but I would like to know what would have been the official colour code (if possible) on an ex M.O.D. 1980 tug vehicle wheel, in order to restore as such. Taken a while to remove the filth in order to see the paint, so shade of green may have been tarnished slightly.

Many thanks.

Soldering the conductor strip made it work slightly better, but still erratic, replaced plate with spring loaded b.c. holders and single pole bulbs (replacing the twin pole bulbs)....works perfect.

Hi, thanks for that, I've often wondered about Hamworthy axles etc, I'll have look for that.

I'm slowly plodding through the wiring on an ex M.O.D. tug, most is now working, but there's nearly always something that doesn't quite make sense.

Can anyone advise as to whether the lamp(s) holder (with conductor strips) on a Rubbolite Model 63 indicator/side light unit, deteriorates with age ?

I've done a continuity test, got 12V going to it, 5W bulb is good, can't see a break in the conductor strip, even tried the old silver paper trick between bulb contacts and conductor strip.

Indicator works fine....side light doesn't ?   I'm just wondering if I could build up the conductor strip with solder ?

Thanks.

3 hours ago, MTH83 said:

I’d seen it mentioned on here somewhere, on one of the threads - where Princess Anne has written to you about the overdrive failing on the Scimitar that she owned, they’re an iconic car and there was one near my parents house as I was growing up, whilst they are great cars like @sprocket316 I’ve not been in one either! 

Sorry chaps, went back to my wiring fun and games on the tug, they might have started life nicely colour coded, but there's always a few wires that have had attention over the years that end up in extensions of yellow/green or some other colour....thank god I've got a cheapo multimeter !  Engine hours clock has never worked since I've had it, its worked on the bench tonight though....bet Princess Anne never had that problem !  Three wires come off the hours clock, one to the Alt Charge dash panel bulb, the other two have yet to be traced....probably need to make some extensions to my multimeter cables !

2 minutes ago, MTH83 said:

Overdrive on Scimitar!? 

Always liked Scimitars....but never been in one !

4 minutes ago, radiomike7 said:

OK, totally off topic but just to keep you all on your toes, which current member of the Royal Family did I respond to in 1972 when asked why their Industrial Power Product supplied item failed for the third time?

 

Princess Anne

54 minutes ago, super6 said:

Industrial Power Products is a part of the Ford organisation that sells power trains for oem builders to use in whatever they built. Based on standard production engines found in their more usual products.

https://everythingaboutboats.org/ford-industrial-power-uk/

Many thanks for that, I'll have a read of it later.

FMW produced around 160/170 (so I'm informed) towing tugs for airfield, dockyard, stores use etc. From my limited knowledge, many were eventually disposed of and sold on to shipping and aviation companies, the dozen or so I have come across were all Ford 2.5L diesel engined and used Transit components with a Borg-Warner torque converter, weight approx 2.8 ton.

I must stress that I am refering to the towing tug and not the Matey truck, out of interest I did see a Matey truck on a well known auction site around a month ago.

Many thanks folks. I'll check out the relay on eBay out of interest, haven't tested it yet as haven't had any issues starting it, probably helps that it is the 2.5 DI engine....and not the 2.4l York !

Many thanks for the reply radiomike7, I'm pretty sure you're correct, it does link up with the glow plug/thermostat wiring to the inlet manifold, although I'm not yet convinced that the system is in working order....too busy clearing endless wasp nest residue after years of outdoor countryside storage. Engine is as you say.

Hi, forgive my ignorance on this as I've not come across this type of electrical component before, it's on an ex M.O.D. 1980's FMW diesel tug. I realise this may be a little to young for this site, but any help in advising what it is would be greatly appreciated.

It's a Ford stamped component with prominent number of  12DA B4 7PG  shown on the casing.

Many thanks.

My wife likes how you've built yourself a little roof to keep the hubs and yourself out of any bad weather !

Nice one, enjoying the progress reports.

That's a great help and much appreciated, I've looked on the net and noticed a large variations in prices, good to know there's an alternative out there in this country though....as opposed to the other side of the world !

The machine will never go on the road, and if it goes over 25 km/h I'd be in a state of shock.

Thanks for that, I have been looking, lots of the fork lift tyres are solids....i'll keep looking though !

I tend to get mixed up over the vagaries of tyre sizes, can anyone offer advice on a suitable alternative for a 700 - 15  12 Ply tyre for a split rim wheel off an ex M.O.D. FMW TT40 tug.

I think the AVON BUFFALO is now history, I don't mind what brand it is as long as it will do the job safely, my wife is frightened to walk by the current tyres....that somehow do still hold air !

I see where you're coming from, I guess that's what "walk around checks" are all about on a daily inspection sheet, not that this particular machine will ever see daily use, and certainly not on the public highway. Got the big chocks out on the back end now, where's fluid showing signs of leakage on testing....n/s/f !

Don't you just love it.

You're quite right John, they were indeed Right handed, although I've removed many standard commercial vehicle wheelnuts much bigger than that with purpose made equipment, the 28mm size was kind of "inbetweenie land" for me and a size I don't recall coming across before.  Don't suppose it helped matters by the fact that they hadn't been disturbed for many years and probably been tightened up with an impact gun....or Hercules !

Anyhow, the bottom line is, I can now get access to the rear braking system, and the more I can now see of the tyre....the more frightening it looks !

Thanks Richard,

I forgot to mention that I spent a while tapping each nut, after having let them have a couple of hours of sunbathing in todays lovely weather, the final awkward nut still went with a cracking sound when it finally freed off, then it was a tedious case of....two steps forward one step backward as I wound all six off !

Success, all nuts now removed and wheel off. I've gone for too many years too remember with tools that have done the job in hand, but sometimes not necessarily the exact correct tool. The bottom line of this saga was that the 28mm nuts needed 3/4" drive (not 1/2"), the socket needed to be six sided and not twelve (although I did remove five nuts with the twelve sided socket), the sixth nut only came free with the newly acquired six sided socket (the twelve sided was slipping) and 3/4" drive 24" extender bar....with a section of scaffolding pipe added !

I've never really had the need for 3/4" gear before, I've now added one or two pieces to it, I may only use it now and again....but it's nice to have !

Thanks to all for your input.

Sorry for slow responses, my internet on the p.c. went down for 15 hours, thanks to all of you for the suggestions and tips. Got to go out and earn a living for a few days now, but will hopefully have good news re this minor (but irritating) issue fairly soon.

Hi Richard,

Thanks for message, I do understand that torque multipliers can be used for undoing and tightening nuts (with care). If I was to take the vehicle on the road, I could possibly be jailed for life, the brakes work a little bit....on a good day !  The reason I'm removing the wheels is so that I can inspect the back axle to see what isn't working in the brakes department.

Mobile tyre fitter might be a possibility, but I hate to be defeated. Vehicle is ex MOD FMW tug (small but weighty), I'll attach a photo of the offside hub.

Andy, only just got your second message, I was under the illusion that torque multipliers were for undoing nuts....and not for tightening them !

I agree with you about the shock treatment though.

Hi Andy, I've read about nearside nut movement, never experienced it myself, that's why I was curious about mine when I couldn't budge them, yet the offside came off no problem.

It's decision time now for me, do I go torque multiplier or persevere with extender bars etc ?