Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Hutch3674

  • Rank
    Lance Corporal
  • Birthday 08/07/1958

Personal Information

  • Location
    Omagh Area, Northern Ireland
  • Interests
    Military Vehicles
  • Occupation
    Risk Management Consultant

Social Profiles

  • Skype

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Any ideas why there is some holes on one of the blades? I think some sort of balancing / Harmonising .
  2. Hutch3674

    AEC Militant MKI (Update)

    After a few week's hard graft trying to remove the steering box, I decided it would be easier for freedom of access to remove the radiator, another long job. The hardest part being the two mounting bolts, but once these were free I was on a roll. The steering box is held in by three bolts and the one on the socket in the picture above is the easiest to access, the other two are around the front and are difficult to get any leverage on them to free them off. Next step to remove the radiator Definitely a mechanical lift due to the weight of the radiator, but I am operating under battlefield conditions and the radiator slid down the ladder at a good controlled speed, it will require a different technique on refitting. With the radiator off, I will have the opportunity to give the front end of the engine a good cleaning and to change all the radiator hoses as a form of preventive maintenance. It was a piece of cake to remove the last two steering box bolts, so it was a good move. The steering box came out through the cab with a few groans from my back, and once out it was down to the shed, followed by a good wash in petrol and the 6 nuts removed on the access panel and I drained off the oil, then it was opened up, to see how I was going to remove the steering worm shaft. I should have read the book (EMER Wheeled Vehicles D 152) first; as it states once the oil is drained " The steering worm shaft can then be unscrewed." This had me thinking could it have been taken out without the removal of the steering box, but it is trial and error, I am also thinking maybe the steering worm shaft would have hit the cab roof before it had cleared the steering column. I must remember to measure the length of the steering worm shaft prior to refitting it to see if the cab roof would allow the removal/clearance.The steering worm shaft was taken to the local engineering firm to get the threads re taped to allow the bearing cage to screw on correctly. I am now cleaning up the steering box and getting it ready to refit after the engine has been cleaned to a high standard along with the radiator. The EMER Wheeled Vehicle book states the steering box takes 2.27 litres of OC 600, never came across this on Tanks or Stalwarts, any one know of the civilian equivalent?
  3. Hutch3674

    AEC Militant MKI (1966) 38EP19

    Just a quick question? There are 4 of these (Dowel type) pins/studs in the two drive axles brake drums, any idea why they are different from the others? Each brake drum is secured by 3 studs with nuts and washers and one of these dowels per drum. I need to get two made locally to complete the refurbishment of the rear axles/Brake drums.
  4. Hutch3674

    AEC Militant MKI (1966) 38EP19

    Purchased in County Carlow, I loved the 6 hours drive to Omagh...
  5. Hutch3674

    AEC Militant MKI (1966) 38EP19

    After another awesome leave period I managed to get some more restoration work done, The rear four wheels were removed along with the brake drums, shot blasted and Bonda Primer added followed by a coat or two of Deep Bronze Green. I also managed to complete a panel on the front of the cab along with the radiator cowling. Several other items were removed for the shot blasters too; the worst being the tailgate which was a three man lift. The brand new headlamp which was in the truck on purchase was finally fitted to replace the badly corroded one on the drivers side, with the remains of this I was able to restore the left hand one and after purchasing a set of headlamp inserts (Shiny bit) I was road worthy again. The indicators & four-ways are now fully operational after the best part of a years labors, so happy about this I made a video of them winking. Along with the tailgate I was able to remove the springs and adjuster brackets, the refitting will be fun at a later stage methinks, as the tailgate was awfully heavy so I refitted the brackets a hole further up the slide to take a bit of weight whilst opening and closing it. A locally manufactured step ladder was also fitted to the tailgate to allow me to remove the tailgate pins when I am older. Jerrycan holder & tool bin also got a clean up and a double coat of DBG. The two brackets in the drivers cab used for the tool boxes, the floor plates, drivers seat mount & floor plates along with the pedals also got a good clean up.
  6. Hutch3674

    Question AEC Militant MKI

    Update on the steering problem now that I am safely back at work. OK Gents, after returning back home choosing roads which felicitated a right turn only I managed to get parked up back on the drive safely. I went straight to the User handbook (EMER) and started to look for remedies, also posting my problem on HMVF and by experience I knew if I couldn't get an answer here I was in deep pooh. I took this mad notion that the problem was in the steering box so I went through the various stages of preparation to remove the steering box, I removed the steering wheel and stowed it away on the passenger side of cab. Next step according to the user hand book was remove the brake pipes from the brake pedal (Mind your knuckles) Accelerator pedal and clutch pedal, then on to the cab floor bolts and the trailer brake on the side of the steering column. I also had to remove the seat and frame and the rear floor plate so I could release the front floor plate as they overlap each other. Then on to the ball joint on the drag link, split pin out and that is as far as I got even after a local trucking company gave me a plastic case with various types of ball joint splitters it wasn't for moving anytime fast. Then I received the messages above from HMVF and after reading them several times I returned to the cab when I spotted the bolt and tab washer on the steering column, I removed and unscrewed the cup on the top only to discover a lot of iron fillings on top of several damaged seals. The nut that should have been secured by the grub screw (Alan screw type) had been loosened off or lost its grip on the shaft, which I believe allowed the steering wheel to be screwed down on to the top on the column and stopping when it reached its lowest point. I was now blocking a minor roundabout and it wasn't long before I realized I could apply a right hand lock and loosen the steering a bit and thankfully I was OK to limp home. I tried in vain to reassert the nut but the threads were to far gone it was impossible, so I took it to the local garage equipped with a lathe and he re cut the threads for me, I was hoping that I could now refit the nut, but the shaft wasn't having it either. I was told if it wouldn't take to the shaft then bring the shaft here and they would be able to re cut the threads. I again tried to split the ball joint but to no avail. Completely disappointed after coming to a standstill and my time was running short. I will now have a local mechanic to do the splitting for me in my absence, that should leave me three big bolts to remove on my return home. I hope to then strip the steering box down and remove the shaft for re threading to be completed, then the reassembly after checking everything else in the box.
  7. Hutch3674

    Question AEC Militant MKI

    On return from my MOT, I put a full right hand lock on, as I was going to be close to the kerb I tried to put more of a lock on that was possible maybe pushing it beyond its limit. I noticed the steering to be heavier on left hand locks on the journey home. Finally the steering refused to allow a left hand lock to be applied on an exit off a roundabout. I tried a right hand lock which was possible. I did notice after a few struggles that on turning the steering wheel it was actually screwing itself closer to the steering column shaft cover (Like a nut going on to a bolt). Any ideas? I think I may have upset the steering box. What think ye?
  8. Hutch3674

    Tony Lawrence

    Convoy / Number plate light.
  9. Hutch3674

    What was this for? Job card? 1959 Army Moke

    The last time I saw one of those label holders it was on an MFO box, lol. Not seen one in a Military Vehicle before...
  10. Hutch3674


    Great job, my eyes are dim I cannot see lol, I can make some of it out...11/22-1 (24v). Great job Gents Hutch
  11. Hutch3674


    Nice, It hasn't changed much over the years. I downloaded the fitting instructions from that link, it may be helpful. Many thanks, Hutch
  12. Hutch3674


  13. Hutch3674


    Anyone have an idea where I might be able to obtain a 24v Hella Four Way Flasher switch from? Required for an AEC Militant MKI (1966), I am sure these were once fitted in the land rover dashboards in the 80's.
  14. Hutch3674

    AEC Militant MKI (1966) 38EP19

    I found that even with a brand new dashboard that the yellow labels on each wire the black lettering wore off very quickly if handled to much so I got a small printer (made by Brother Flee bay). Handy tool for all sorts. The indicator switch was I believe the same as the champ. Badly positioned on the Milly if you have long legs lol. I've broken one all ready.
  15. Hutch3674

    AEC Militant MKI (1966) 38EP19

    Another 7 wonderful days spent on the Mighty Militant, I managed to remove the two front wheels and the spare, split them down and had the wheels shot blasted, primed with BP and a nice finish of DBG, plus the two brake drums. I would like to have went deeper but time was against me. Removed 50 years worth of paint off the front left hand corner and primed it and covered it in DBG, took a few hours of work stripping paint with an old Black & Decker heat gun. Next time home I would like to get the four rear wheels and drums sorted, and if possible the front bumper off along with the tailgate, hoping I will be able to achieve this in good time I might be able to do another panel or two. Still no ignition, just after I spent 11 months getting the indicators to flash, every day a new noise. I have the lights, cab interior light, horn, I'm thinking now my fault is between the Rubber block/distribution box and the dashboard as the rubber block & wiring behind the seat are in poor condition, I am hoping to by pass the armoured conduit and try this as a process of elimination. I am hopeful I will find my problem and have it rectified, and reward myself with a good 20 mile road run. Hutch