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Everything posted by fv1609

  1. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25824/lot/195/ https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25824/lot/200/ They are both apparently: One of only 72 production 'Pink Panthers' Believed only 1 of 20 remaining
  2. If you want to make it look smart get Satin finish, if you want it to look authentic get Matt. There is no Satin finish listed in the Catalogues of Army Ordnance Stores Section H1 (a) [later H1 (Part 1)] Paints, dopes & varnishes.
  3. The link to this updated version has been lost, so here it is again. The subject of post-war British Army green paints that has fascinated me for over 35 years, but it has proved very difficult to find, let alone untangle tangible evidence from fading memories, misunderstandings & general misinformation. This tells the story of the interactions of finance, politics, strategic requirements, tactical needs, changing legislation, logistics, environmental issues, expediency etc I have included a number of extracts from documents and my reference sources, so that anyone can check up on me or pursue their own research from these starting points. It was considered to have too much text for our club magazine, but a copy is held in Library of Bovington Tank Museum for researchers to access. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/y3icx5761al00u9/AACGqQrN2TXeNJfPce5kqLtia?dl=0
  4. I don't know why those links no longer work, but they are principally about the marking of vehicles.I did have a Dropbox link to my latest version of PW British Army Green Paints, but that seems to have gone. PS New link re-established
  5. The lighting is fed from the 25A thermal cutout housed in Box Distribution No.1 Mk 1 so not effected by what is going on in the ignition circuit which is fed by the 10A thermal cutout also housed in Box Distribution No.1 Mk 1 Your voltmeter I assume is wired into the ignition circuit. To me it suggests a fault in the 10A thermal cutout (corroded or arced contacts) which even when open will still allow a voltage to flow through the cutout winding which is something like 150-200 ohms this will pass only a very small current. But would be sufficient to illuminate the red & yellow lights to some degree. As this also supplies the ignition coil through to the distributor, when the points are open of course the coil draws no current & there is enough power to illuminate the red & yellow lights. But if the engine has stopped when the points are close there might be nearly 4A flowing, but if the thermal cutout is defective then trying to flow this current through the winding of 150-200 ohms will cause a serious voltage drop. This will not be sufficient to illuminate the red & yellow lights, energise the coil or allow the starter to be activated. I think the state when you get 28-30v not fluctuating when the red & yellow are turned on is when the distributor contact breaker points are open.
  6. I think the smaller one is the Generator No.1. What is the Gen Panel No.? I believe it is possible to fit a 2-speed Generator Panel No.2 in place of the single speed panels. I have some experience of the 2-speed panel but not the single speed. I would be tempted at the moment to take all voltage readings direct from the battery as added on things by a previous owner like a voltmeter are not necessarily placed in the most appropriate place, in terms where & how effectively it is earthed & whether +ve voltage monitoring point is most appropriate eg the instrument panel is fed by a 10A thermal cut out, which can get unreliable & even when the contacts are open circuit can still supply a voltage albeit with very low current capabilities because of the flow through the coil winding which is something like 150 ohms. The voltage that appears is dependant on what other demands are being place on the circuit in such circumstances. In the first post you mention turning on the "panel lights" is that the single bulb to illuminate instruments or the main light switch in the Switchboard No.1 ? Of course the other panel lights (red & yellow) come on when the ignition switch is turned on initially. What was the problem with the starter motor? Are you certain it was at fault & not the ancillary wiring in some way, given that you have these other issues?
  7. One side is face, one side is skeletal. A reminder that war is not so glorious.
  8. What do you mean by the ignition lights? The charge warning light (red), the oil pressure warning light (yellow), panel illumination lights. All of these or some of these? 22-25v is far too low with the engine running, should be more like 28V. Where are you measuring the voltage? Directly on the batteries or somewhere off the loom? Do you have Generator No.1 or No.2? Has it always worked properly & then just started playing up or always been a bit like this since you have had it?
  9. A few pics before the public arrive, the rather haunting figure is twice life size.
  10. Nigel trying to find anything in the series EMER RADAR & FCE is going to be a challenge, I have some but not in the range that covers your item. Best hope is REME Museum. In any search best to be specific in the exact documents you what you want ie EMER RADAR & FCE P030-P039.& trailer & chassis in EMER WHEELED VEHICLES U260/7-U269/7. I do have these in EMER WV, I could do the odd page but it would be a mammoth to copy these : U 260/7 Trailer, 1-Ton, 4W/2L (Mortar Locating & Generator Set ) FV2451.Data Summary. Jan.1964 U 262/7 Trailer, 1-Ton, 4W/2L (Mortar Locating & Generator Set ) FV2451. Technical Description. Jul.1966 U 263/7 Trailer, 1-Ton, 4W/2L (Mortar Locating & Generator Set ) FV2451. Unit Repairs.Jul.1966 U 264/7 Trailer, 1-Ton, 4W/2L (Mortar Locating & Generator Set ) FV2451. Field & Base Repairs. Sep.1966 U 267/7 Trailer, 1-Ton, 4W/2L (Mortar Locating & Generator Set ) FV2451. Spirit levels. Mod.Instr.No.2. Apr.1973 U 267/7 Trailer, 1-Ton, 4W/2L (Mortar Locating & Generator Set ) FV2451. Brake pipes & electrical cables. Mod.Instr.No.3. Oct.67 U 267/7 Trailer, 1-Ton, 4W/2L (Mortar Locating & Generator Set ) FV2451. Fitting 12-point jumper cable. Mod.Instr.No.5. Jan.1972 U 269/7 Trailer, 1-Ton, 4W/2L (Mortar Locating & Generator Set ) FV2451. Road springs. Misc.Instr.No.1. Mar.1965
  11. I've managed to repair my old PC that has access to my NSN data & have some results for you. 2530-99-835-4526 RAF Vocab Ref 61AE40759 (As you might guess 61AE is the vocab section for AEC mechanical transport) LV7/FW/M0337 This is the old VAOS (Vocabulary of Army Ordnance Stores) item reference. As already discussed the old VAOS section was utilised as the DMC (Domestic Management Code) preceding the NSN. The nice thing about VAOS items that mostly the section prefix precedes the manufacturer's part no & in this case it is M0337. So hope that helps. I have now mislaid the AEC parts list I was referring to in our PMs before this thread got under way, but I expect someone will be along to identify M0337 for you. Incidentally if anyone has any early NSNs that cannot be identified by an internet search (as they only relate to more modern items) then I may be able to help for stuff codified & current 25 years ago. PS I see M0337 corresponds to a part mentioned earlier : )
  12. Ian I have had this on other forums. You can delete nearly all your post content but leave something behind. Try deleting the text but leave behind just say a full stop & it may work then.
  13. Mike the immediate thing to do is to check that points gap is not too narrow. Broadly speaking a coil marked SW & CB is likely to be for +ve earth & those marked + & - for -ve earth, but there is no guarantee of this. For instance most screened coils are for -ve earth are marked SW & CB. But some earlier screened coils marked this way were for +ve earth. Unfortunately such coils are polarity identified with a sticky label. Why on earth they can't be polarity marked on the base where the date of manufacture & part number is stamped I do not know. The easiest way is to look up the part number & see its design polarity. I notice one company that seem to produce or at least sell what look to be high quality reproduction coils have the coils marked + & - so that you are told to simply connect it according to the polarity. With such advice & with no mention of design polarity, this seems to demonstrate a poor understanding of the products they have on offer. There is one way you could determine the design earth polarity. Although the are two coils they are connected in series to act as an auto transformer. In +ve earth coils CB is connected to the far end of the autotransformer from the HT terminal. In -ve earth coils SW is connected to the far end of the autotransformer from the HT terminal. You could very briefly connect say a PP3 9v battery across the primary & measure the polarity with respect to the HT terminal & SW & CB in turn. Mind your fingers though as the will be HT produced when the magnetic field collapses & the will also be 300v or so on the primary winding. You can see better how systems differ on page 3 & lists of coil polarities on page 90 & there is stuff about coil insulation on page 83-85 in this:
  14. Despite the external similarity, note the provision for the bearings.
  15. Although they have a passing visual similarity. They are not at all the same, the bearings are entirely different. A Humber owner would not be pleased to end up being sold these I'm afraid.
  16. Pleased to see them not stood in front of the registration plate : )
  17. They do have a similarity in appearance I grant you. The part numbers I quoted are for the hubs alone. I once did have 4 Humber hubs in sealed wooden boxes like yours & they were devoid of all ancillaries.
  18. I'm not sure that this correct. I have the parts lists for Trailer 1 Ton (1956 & 1974) that gives the hub as FV8596 but Humber 1 Ton (1952 & 1960) give the hubs as FV174966 (RHS) & FV174967 (LHS)
  19. I'm not sure that this correct. I have the parts lists for Trailer 1 Ton (1956 & 1974) that gives the hub as FV8596 but Humber 1 Ton (1952 & 1960) give the hubs as FV174966 (RHS) & FV174967 (LHS)
  20. Presumably they all are as the ISPL only quotes one type of hub, unlike Humber that has different numbers for left & right.
  21. Just a few further thoughts. What is the "cold" resistance of the primary? About 3 ohms? Is the charging system delivering no more that 13.8V? Is the dwell angle correct? ie Are the points closed for too long? How old is the coil? The thermal conductivity of the oil deteriorates with time. Or is it quite old & the insulation medium a sort of pitch? Those coils will usually have the primary wound first ie on the inside as one would expect given the name primary! But modern coils have the secondary wound first so that the primary is nearest the can & will dissipate heat better than an older coil as the primary winding is the main source of heat. From experiments I have done by heating coils by running them continuously up to working temperature & a bit beyond, I have found that the insulating properties of the oil deteriorates to such an extent that it is about a tenth of its cold insulation. The insulation of any winding (as they are all connected to each other) relative the case should be many gigohms at say 5kV when cold, so that once heated it will still perform adequately as an insulator. In addition to this not only does the thermal conductivity of the oil deteriorate with time so does its insulating properties, so once heated things get even worse. Another point, your vehicle is negative earth but is the coil designed for negative earth or is it a positive earth coil with the SW & CB connections reversed? This dodge is often done, because it is important to have a negative spark for good running. By using a positive earth coil the wrong way round you lose out on some HT. voltage. As the points open the magnetic field collapses inducing a high voltage in the secondary, but of course there is a voltage induced in the primary in the order of 300v. Any spark at the points should be minimised by an efficient condenser contribute to an abrupt switch off that optimises the HT output. This 300v is added to the HT output, but if you use a coil originally designed for a different earth polarity this 300v is out of phase & reduces the HT output by 300v. So using the wrong polarity coil means the HT is 600v less than would be achieved by a similar coil designed for the correct polarity. If you search the internet you can find references to this with the explanation that the primary winding senses this difference & adjusts itself accordingly! Well without the primary unwinding itself & rewinding again it is not possible! This is why there are coils designed specifically for either a negative earth system or a positive earth system. Sites that promote Prince of Darkness themes are usually the most likely to come up with these extraordinary suggestions. If you are going to GDSF I will have my test stuff with me & can test insulation up to 50 gigohms at 5kV, if you want anything tested. The other thing is that if you do decide to go for electronic ignition, you may well find that you have increased HT output. This on the face of it sounds good, but that can give rise to trouble as older style rotor arms, distributor caps, cables etc may not be able to withstand this extra voltage & the insulation may break down.
  22. It cross references to a later codification 9BTR/2530-99-848-9995
  23. It is for a 1 Ton Trailer FV2401 Series The VAOS Section LV9 is for Standardised British Land Vehicles (ie WD design) BTR is for trailers derived from B Vehicle TraileR
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