fv1609

Yes needs to be more grey, that stuff in the £2 can looks more like a Forest Green.

This is picture of it having been sprayed onto a plastic box. In contrast the dull green ladder it sits on is a fairly true representation of British NATO Green. I was rather misled by the colour of the plastic cap, but you can't expect too much for £2 a can.

Marcus Glenn every time not cheap but consistent quality. Just ordered some more, thanks for reminding me. Some of the discount shops are now selling quite cheaply what they call "NATO Green". It is an extraordinary colour that bears no resemblance to NATO Green of any nation.. .

A normal coil will work well enough with electronic ignition. I think the sales push for you to buy a matching coil was because electronic ignition can switch more current than CB points then a coil with lower resistance primary will give more output. Traditional CB points don't last too long if they are switching more than 3A. I used a SimonBBC kit in my Shorland & it worked very well & that was just using the original coil. I did once ask them a fairly basic technical question about a coil & to their credit they admitted they had only a limited technical appreciation of the products that they sell. I appreciate their honesty rather some of the baloney given by some sellers of ignition components.

Sending a PM

Does it extinguish when the points close? That would help establish whether you have an LT problem or an HT problem. If it doesn't extinguish then your points aren't closing or this wire under the base plate has failed.

Ron have you checked that the fine flexible wire under the distributor base plate is intact & making contact to earth? PS That is assuming you have auto advance.

I bought this book because I was born just after WW2 in Teignmouth that is the other side of the river to Shaldon. It is interesting to read of the arrangements for the defence of this bit of coastline. There are many names in the list of Home Guard personnel that I can remember from my boyhood there. I can remember seeing remnants of rusting defences on the beach & I well remember the gun emplacement in the Ness overlooking Teignmouth. That remained there until the late 1960s & I can remember a ring of substantial bolts on the floor that I see from the book supported a 4.7-inch Quick Firing Naval Gun made in Japan in 1917. The crews to man this & the other gun nearby were drawn from quite a wide area & at a time when there were few telephones it was a complicated procedure to mobilise the crews. I have no wish to infringe the author’s copyright, so this is a summary of the mobilisation orders: Ring Mr H ask him to give message to Gunner T who lives next door. Gunner T proceeds to Mill Lane to warn Bdr D who has list of men he has to warn. Gunner T then warns Gunner H has list of men to warn on his motor-cycle Ring Sgt B ask him to warn the Shaldon men via his NCOs who have a list men to warn Ring Mr M at Commercial Inn Bishopsteignton “ask him if he would be good enough to message Sgt S” Sgt S who has instructions to warn Gunner B Ring Gunner D who has names & addresses of three men to warn Ring Gunner C who has name & address of one man to warn Ring Battery ask Capt C for the van to make several trips to West Teignmouth Church & return them to the battery. Shaldon men are to make their own way direct to the Battery On mustering all men will report to Battery Office & sign the Attendance Book. There are lists of men that formed the Home Guard & other units. I can remember there was an electrician who used to do work for my parents. He was full of yarns about the war how he had various secret duties & claimed he had met Churchill at the Royal Hotel on the sea front. My mother & most others thought this was utter nonsense. But as the years went by it was revealed that Churchill had indeed stayed at the Royal Hotel meeting Eisenhower to discuss the progress of invasion plans. Our electrician was in an Auxiliary Unit & had some quite serious duties to perform if the need arose. I just wish I had listened to his tales & I wish his courage had been more widely recognised by the town. My other recollections of the time were visits to Slapton Sands where there no significant vegetation on the hillsides, just burnt tree stumps it was only decades later that the truth was revealed about what really happened there. I also remember seeing rows of abandoned Nissen huts on Bovey Heath, my father & I looked inside one to see stacks of leather items just turning mouldy. Nobody seemed to have stolen much, there was no graffiti & none of the few windows were smashed. It would be a rather different scene these days, I think. A nice little book that brought back some strange memories of people & places.

FV84923 same as on Humber 1 ton

Hmm it wasn't meant to be taken sarcastically, I'm surprised you think that. It was intended as a polite suggestion of what may have taken place.

See my PS You are now well placed to help out some poor soul who has the same problem. Most of us only are only knowledgeable as the result of things going wrong & having to sort it out. Being now elderly I have had ample time to pick on all these problems!

Brighter lights & running ok with the heater has nothing to directly do with the ignition system. But glad it is better than before. PS It might have a lot to do with your battery terminal being done up tighter now.

Yes the radio batteries terminals are live when charging ie with engine running & switches it in parallel with the vehicle batteries. Not running the radio terminals are isolated. Yes I've had tingles through "insulation" on HT cable. That seems a rather long length of cable, I didn't know what arrangement you had assumed you were using the original screened cable. So I would reduce the length of cable as its weight bouncing around will tug at the connections.

Trouble is once you shorten the end then when you come to fit the correct DZS4A distributor (caution there are many types) you will have to replace the whole inner cable & terminate it the other end in the connector. Yes you will get a shock & bear in mind a spark like that in air can jump about 1 cm so it shows the HT is working! Although the existing end of cable termination is not ideal the important thing is it doesn't wobble around or fall out. Even if there is a gap don't assume it will give a poorer HT output because these screw in spark enhancers are basically a pair of self-taping screws facing head to head with a gap!

Yes I see a wire has been pushed into cable centre & held by the hole in the cable. That hole is left over from pointed screw in the original distributor to penetrate the insulation to touch the centre conductor. If it is snug fit push it back in, but the hazards of modifications from original fit I'm afraid.

Excellent news! In the article I mentioned that the expected 10V reduces to 9V after 10 mins or so. PS Would have been better to have just taken the negative lead off on the "lower" battery so if it the spanner touched any metalwork there would be no sparking/melting.

Not meant to be a smug answer but a good example of the value of having a battery isolating switch in the earth lead of the "lower" battery. Make sure you now disconnect the negative terminal of at least the "lower" battery then file the lumpy bits off the terminal. You ought to check voltage of the both batteries under some sort of load. Just using a voltmeter is of limited value. Reconnect the batteries, put a load on by turning on the headlights and ensure you have a fairly equal reading of at least 12V on each battery individually. If the headlights are dim you will need to charge one or both batteries, depending on your voltmeter readings. As a general principle try to have a pair of batteries of identical type & age. If you don't then you'll end up with one battery never being charged fully. One battery can't get charged preferentially to the other as they are in series & both carry the same current. From time to time might be worth giving each battery an individual 12V charge to try to maintain a balance. Avoid tapping off the "lower" 12V to run a radio, lights etc as this drains one battery more than the other.

The more nervous you are, the greater will be the satisfaction when it all works!

Make sure that the windings are as parallel as possible. You can see how a slight sag as it heats up could short out a turn & repeat the original problem.

As Marvin Gaye sang "There ain't nothing like the real thing" Could be the answer to your prayers & very cheap considering the scarcity. Never seen NOS ones for sale before. https://www.lmslichfieldltd.com/epages/BT4011.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4011/Products/"electrical store 93B"

You don't want this to happen.

Yes, a flat battery or the ignition coil overheats & explodes.

Yes But don't leave it on & not running for more than a minute or so.

The 0.14V reading suggests that if you are drawing say 3A then the resistance of the point you are measuring from to earth is about 0.04 Ohms which isn't important. The important things is that it is not reading 24V as that would indicate the points were not closing. But we know they are closing because of the heat being produced by the resistor. But for peace of mind you need to know the voltage from the output of the filter box. I agree you cannot access this via the coil this can only be done from the filter box either with it upturned & not screwed in, or for these test purposes solder a flying lead that for safety reasons you keep the insulation intact & just use the prod of your voltmeter to touch the inner copper. This is to help avoid this test lead touching earth. Once you have got this reading remove the test lead. You are only seeking the closed points reading without the engine running, the reading when running is not of great importance & anyway will be gibberish with a digital meter. In all off this don't get hung up about a good earth to chassis of the filter box or coil this has no bearing on the functionality of the ignition system. It is only important for radio suppression.

That sounds spot on. It is awkward to reach into those deep set connections. I have some old leads I screw in, but you have worked around & you have got round the problem & eliminated the resistance of the measuring leads which often people forget about. Earlier you said you were getting 24.5V on the SW terminal with the points closed. But from the photo the SW lead is disconnected. It must be screwed into the coil to complete the circuit to draw current to get a voltage drop. The way to measure this voltage is from inside the filter box. I did most of these experiments 10+ years ago but thinking about the resistor should get quite hot. But it has a dissipation of 50W so should be ok. Bearing in mind a 12V kettle is about 100W although with the engine running the duty cycle will be less.