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Posts posted by fv1609

  1. Just renewed my MV insurance & I see KGM have included the wording below.

    If you don't like being made to go round the arena it seems the perfect get-out, if you enjoy that sort of thing then contact your MV broker for advice.



  2. 9 hours ago, johnwardle said:

    Non screened or unsuppressed plug leads plug leads cause a crackling interference on radios. Back in the 1960s I remember someone in the village that I lived in had a motorbike that was unsuppressed, every time he rode past the television would crackle and flicker, so it is very important to eliminate interference on military radios.

    John indeed yes a lot of preserved WW2 vehicles  still continue to emit large amounts of RF interference right across the spectrum. At shows I operate on amateur bands from 80m-2m & it can be quite a problem for me, with a directional antenna I can identify an offending vehicle sometimes several hundred yards away.

    I would have thought if the ignition systems have actually been restored to their wartime spec then tactically it would have been a drawback not only to a unit's own comms but would also warn an enemy of an approaching threat no matter how much stealth was employed.

  3. Martin what is the book you have?

    To be applicable to your vehicle you need to look for publications in the AESP series 2320-D-122-

    I have 3 editions of 2320-D-122-201 Operating Information. It is only the 2nd edition that contains the circuit diagram.

    PM me your email & I'll sent the diagram

    The original headlight bulbs for yours were 12v 45/50w

  4. Seems you've got a lot of rewiring to do,  shame it can't be made to work as originally intended.

    My 90 made under the same contract didn't have these lighting issues. Is there not some easier workaround perhaps with more modern lighting? Or are you sure the bulb units fitted are to the original spec?

  5. Andy were you thinking of Marcus Engineering (Wirral) Company Limited they refurbished carbs etc vehicles in NI. Some years ago I ordered a lot of carb spares from them, but they seemed to have ceased trading under that name in 2003.

  6. Might be worth measuring from the bulb holder but with the negative meter lead to a wire directly on the battery negative & see if you get the same result.

    Also check the state of the fuses, fuse holder & blade connectors into fuse holders for the dip circuitry.

    RHS dip feed is Blue/Black to fuse

    LHS dip feed is Blue/Pink to fuse

    The live side of each fuse join together to Blue/Red, check the jumper lead & its blade connectors.

    To rule out an earthing issue, would be to temporarily run a stout lead from the bulb holder earth terminal to battery negative.

  7. So the 1v drop is on the headlight bulb holder that has no bulb., but is the bulb on the corresponding fitting on the other side illuminated? If it is, it is going to take the edge off the at rest voltage of the battery. Measure the voltage drop with the engine running, I suspect you won't see a drop.

    When measuring this voltage drop from where are you getting the negative connection? On the wing, an earth lead in the wing, the chassis or long lead back to the battery negative or the earth strap of the negative lead?

    Be suspicious of all earth connections, battery to chassis, chassis to wing or earth leads to lights & associated common earth junctions & links.

  8. Martin it is worth looking for Supplementary Parts Catalogue RTC9941 this covers all the variants in Contract No.22A/340.

    It covers the Military Land Rover 90 2 1/2 Diesel 12v & 12/24 volt. This is not a military parts book so there are no NSNs just Land Rover part numbers. I think you will enjoy it as it has the layout of the FFR fittings in the rear & on the wings.

    I used to have a 90 in this contract, one thing I would suggest is to rewire the supply to the map reading light through the ignition switch. It is so easy for the light to get knocked on & in daylight not realise this so you end up with a flat battery.

    You say you have a 1v drop from the battery to the bulb holder, which bulb holder do you mean & is this when current is being drawn?

    Have you got a photo of the data plate?

  9. Martin it wouldn't have been converted to 12v as it was already 12v.

    The 24v charging system was only to the radio batteries & was electrically separate from the 12v system. Hence it was designated 12/24 Volt Hard Top RHD. Being 12/24v was a jolly good idea unlike Wolf derivatives that are entirely 24v.

    Yours was built under Contract No. 22A/340 of which there were 258 starting 76 KF 14 - 78 KF 18 built in the Fiscal Year 1986-1987

    Painted NATO Green, interestingly the contract included 22 in Bronze Green that were designated "Civilian" & all but 11 were given military registrations.

  10. If you need the rubber bung. you need the rectangular rubber gasket that fits in the rim of the cover. Unfortunately neither are identified as demandable items other than being part of the cover PX19354 for the early battery box.

    I see the later battery box cover FV63144 has a matching gasket FV363145, but I don't know if that will fit yours or not.

  11. Yes very much that sort thing. A double aggression can be triggered if the vehicle in question has a collecting box for a Service charity, because to question anything about the vehicle is seen as not just an affront to the owner but is taken as criticism of the act of collecting for charity. I should say that there are some very nice people with very nice sensible vehicles who do an excellent job fund raising.

    I imagine most of us in our own ways give to charities without making a fuss about it & would have no reason to criticise anyone fund raising but that should really not be a smoke screen to create an immunity from questions or comments even when they are politely presented.

    Some years ago I was looking with astonishment at Mk2 Pig at W&P that had a number of quite strange embellishments & markings that made it look somewhat ridiculous. I was confronted by an ex-NI veteran who assumed the vehicle was mine & was clearly upset who started to admonish me for the way it was presented as being totally unrealistic & he felt that it dishonoured him & his colleagues.

    By chance I happened to see this Pig in a museum a couple of months ago. It still had all the nonsense but it had a number of other issues relating to servicing. Polite mentioning of these issues was met with indifference, undaunted I followed up with an email offering to help with a Servicing Schedule & any copies of documents or photos to help with presenting & running the vehicle.

    I did get a response but only after I had posted some observations on TripAdvisor. I got a very aggressive response wanting to visit me & see what vehicles I had & how well restored they were also wanting to know what I had published about MVs. Yes & of course they use it in connection with collecting for Service charities & a very worthy thing to do, which I am not criticising. So that was the trump card, I had no right to say anything presumably?

  12.  2590-99-802-9183 identifies it in VAOS as LV6/MT4/CB/BCK30 although one could have constructed that oneself, such is logic of VAOS unlike the NIIN of NSNs.

    It also identifies a Prestolite no. 1871300

    Unfortunately there is no RAF Vocab identified but as a double check I went through the AP 1086 Section 16E & drew a blank. Had it been listed it would have given a vehicle application, unlike VAOS that rarely states an application. It is a case of having a hunch about a vehicle then checking in the parts lists for a match.

    From EMER POWER is see BCK-30T was used in two applications. I assume T might means tropicalised. 24v & used in Regulator C25T fitted in Control Boards 155/6X & 155/9X.

    MWR used BCK-3 in Control Board 141-2

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