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fv1609 last won the day on April 28

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About fv1609

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  1. Not to hijack Wally's thread, but Fox trials reminded me had this record of a rather pointless event.
  2. The coil may have been changed from 6v to 12v if the ballast resistor has been removed. The original clamp with its warning may have been loosened & a 12v coil slid in. A Lucas coil should have the part number & date code stamped on the base (flat bit), this will indicate if it is 6v or 12v coil. Maybe the ballast resistor failed & a 12v coil fitted as a temporary fix or maybe someone thought they knew better than the designers & having a 6v coil + ballast resistor was a silly complication? Wired with a 12v coil it will still run but the performance will not be so good at high revs because the extra inductance of a 12v coil over a 6v coil slows down the rate at which the coil can magnetise & demagnetise. In other words loading the primary with more resistance & less inductance reduces the time constant of the circuit.
  3. Wherever the resistor is located it might be as well to do some preliminary checks as it may be quite ok.. The coil is a 16C6 & would have a resistance of about 1.5 ohms, the ballast resistor would have a similar resistance. With the ignition on but not started, you should get 12v on the +ve terminal of the coil. When you close the points this should drop to 6v. This would confirm that the ballast resistor is working. It looks as if the ballast resistor is short circuited on running the starter motor. Incidentally the ambulance UHB says that the basic electrical system is the same as fitted to the 12v GS.
  4. Complete 6680-99-802-0231 Just the inner is 6680-99-802-0251. Yes 11ft long.
  5. It's from the Ferret ISPL
  6. Please post some pictures of around the coil & of the inside of the filter box. It is very difficult to visualise your set up. From the title of the thread & at the outset you asked for the location of the ballast resistor, by that I assumed you had a 24v system. But perhaps this is not the case & it is 12v, in that case I wouldn't expect there to be a ballast resistor. Do you think all the wiring is original or maybe a previous owner has made modifications?
  7. John wow melted solder that was getting hot! Picking up on your point about a newly manufactured good quality condenser, I agree but it doesn't matter whether the condenser was intended for a 6v, 12v or 24v system. I just use condensers for a car (ie 12v) in 24v systems. It doesn't matter what the voltage is of the LT energising the coil, it is the Back EMF that comes from collapse of the magnetic field when the LT is turned off (ie points open) that counts. This is typically 300v so condensers for distributors will usually be rated for 500v although they rarely state that! If you see any sparks as the CB opens that is the 300v, it is not the LT supply. I've met a lot of people over the years who have wasted good money on "24v condensers" when a normal car one will do provided you find one of a similar size & clamp configuration. Because of the high ratio of secondary coil turns to primary turns, the Back EMF on the secondary is much higher than on the primary. Provided the coil is one designed for the earth system of your vehicle then this 300v will be of the correct polarity & be added to your HT. If you have vehicle where the earth polarity was changed & someone has just swapped over the coil LT connections then this 300v will be of the wrong polarity & detract from the overall HT output. Using a coil of the wrong polarity for your earth system means your HT system is 600v worse off than using the correct polarity coil.
  8. The ballast resistor is inside the filter box & that will be a few inches away from the coil, given that the screened cable is quite short. If you are getting sparks at the points it shows that there is continuity through the filter box & the ballast resistor is likely to be ok. You shouldn't really be getting sparks at the CB points, it is the job of the condenser to minimise this & maybe you have the signs of a failing condenser. This would not only show itself by allowing sparks but the spark will erode the points (think of how an arc welder works). The consequence of a spark is that it slows the collapse of the magnetic field of the coil thereby producing reduced HT. For maximum HT you need an abrupt switching off of the voltage to the coil & a good condenser should provide this.
  9. Sam do not buy an official B Series condenser. Even unused it will be quite old & will have deteriorated internally. Even years ago I remember people paying around £50 for the "proper condenser" an utter waste of money. Use any new 0.2mfd distributor condenser that will fit inside. You must use a distributor condenser as it will be rated at 500v, do not use 0.2mfd condenser other than one designed for a distributor.
  10. Yef you need to apply the anti-lifp cweam.
  11. Andy indeed & a lot of support needed at times. This for the Army in Ireland 1789, you need to put the correct teef in to fully grasp the text.
  12. Finally getting my teeth into this I've been meaning to read for a while.
  13. That sounds a fantastic resource Wally.
  14. All good stuff Wally. In this treasure trove are there any pictures of that Hornet model when it was intended to be the Orange William launcher? I have a picture of it, probably at the changeover period to Malkara when there is a strange hemisphere over the controller's windscreen. But there is some labelling that has been deliberately obliterated that I suspect may have referred to Orange William? On the subject of OW are the any models of the other proposed launcher FV426 I wonder?
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