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Johnny

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About Johnny

  1. How strange!! Could you make up a puller to remove the bushes using the internal thread?
  2. I'm really puzzled by the internal thread in the gudgeon pins. Don't recall seeing anything like that before, and can't see any purpose to having it there, especially if they are pressed in. The brass ends of the pins look to be very big in relation to the pistons and con rods, so I'm wondering if they are just end caps or bushes? Something like this: https://blog.wiseco.com/what-are-wrist-pin-buttons Could the brass ends be externally threaded too, and held in place with the split pins? The internal thread could be there to facilitate installing them. Not sure how they could be got out if they are threaded though?!? Worth investigating before you try pressing them out.
  3. Loads of info available on Google. This looks to be a good site: http://30au.co.uk/Home.html with pictures of some of their vehicles in the Mobility section: http://30au.co.uk/Mobility.html You can just about make out an insignia on this pic: http://30au.co.uk/Mobility_files/Media/Jeep_on_ship_home45/Jeep_on_ship_home45.jpg
  4. If you click on the posted time part from the New Posts page (i.e. 6 Hours ago) it takes you to that particular post rather than the beginning of the thread.
  5. The trade name seems to be Metalphoto. Lots of Google matches in America, but not much over here. Possibly becoming an obsolete material nowadays. Advances in printing technology have made it very easy and cheap to print onto virtually any surface. Might be worth contacting a local printer or copy shop to see if they could oblige.
  6. Possibly the PBY Catalina (G-PBYA)? Quite a distinctive sound and shape, and very slow, which could fit your description. It's based at Duxford but is a regular on the show circuit and will often fly if the weather is too bad for most others!
  7. Is the petrol fresh? I've heard of (and experienced) lots of odd running issues recently due to stale fuel. Modern fuel only seems to have a life of a couple of months before it goes off. The bike might still start but won't run properly - often with issues like the one you've described - and it's easy to get drawn into thinking there is another issue! If it was running properly before, and especially if it hasn't been used for a while, try putting some fresh juice in before getting your hands too dirty!
  8. Depends on the type of paint and how well it's been applied. If it's just been slapped on then a pressure washer might well do it. It that doesn't work, you'll need to resort to chemicals! For older organic based paints a caustic soda solution bath would work and not damage the plastic. For 2K or acrylic based paints a decent paint stripper (Synstrip or similar) would be best. Again, that shouldn't touch the plastic, but best to try it on an inconspicuous area first!
  9. Modern Nitromors is rubbish though. The aggressive chemicals have been taken out to make it more environmentally friendly, but it doesn't work on most paints anymore! Go to a trade car paint supplier and get hold of some Synstryp or similar - it actually works like Nitromors used to!
  10. Paraffin. It's expensive now but I haven't found anything better.
  11. http://www.royalmarinesmuseum.co.uk/item/researching-family-and-royal-marine-history/abbreviations-found-in-rm-service-records According to this site it stands for Mobile Naval Base Defence Organisation I guess the V at the end stands for Volunteer?
  12. Footage (starting at about 13 1/2 minutes in) from yesterdays local news of the Weston Recovery Services Pioneer winching a car out of Weston beach. http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b04ls6n6/bbc-points-west-30102014
  13. I've had some success with heat, and lots of it! Aluminium oxide is very hard (used in abrasive paper/ sandblasting, etc) but it's also brittle. Breaking it's bond is the key. For a steel bolt in aluminium, the bolt needs to be heated - ideally to red hot, then allowed to cool. This expands the steel which crushes the crystalline aluminium oxide causing the bond to break. Several repetitions of heat cycles may be required. Oxy/Acetylene is the best thing to use as it's so intense, and the heat can be localised, but care should be taken not to melt the aluminium! Obviously heat can't be used in all situations, like if the part is still fitted! Spark erosion / Electrical Discharge Machining is the correct professional way to remove corroded bits from alloy, but it can be expensive, unless you can find a friendly engineer who will do small jobs for a couple of beers!
  14. 1: any alternative suggestions to rejuvenate the battery. Optimate type battery conditioners are the best way to try to recover batteries. They do charge, drain and recharge cycles, testing along the way. They can't work miracles though, and not all of them are suitable for 6V batteries. 2: has anyone removed the guts and used the case for a modern battery.... Yes. I did this with an old Vespa battery. Flushed it out, then removed the guts and fitted a modern 6V Gel battery inside (possibly from an alarm or something similar). As the space was limited, I could only fit a slightly lower Ah one inside, but as it was only used for parking lights and the horn it wasn't a problem. Might not work if a bike has electric start and needs full power though. 3 or time for a new battery ...any recommendations for an authentic looking battery.. Quite a few places do nice repros of the old rubber batteries now (but they aren't cheap), or modern alternatives. Have you got the battery code or part number? I'd suggest going for Gel (if available), they seem to be a bit more rugged and longer lasting than most modern batteries.
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