Surveyor

Does any one have any details of this contract, I believe it was for vehicles

thanks

Richard

I suppose a supplementary question is where do we find what was built on the contract reference?

This is for those like me learning

Curiousity, I have a No. 2, No.3 and a No.12 stove I have seen a picture of a No.5 stove.

My question is how many types using the designation"Number" and what do they look like. 

I believe one may be a Sankey trailer

Thanks in anticipation

Richard

On 9/13/2018 at 1:31 PM, terryb said:

always amazed me on the news footage, the guys are on one side saying there's a tunnel on this side, but quite clearly seen on the opposite side are several concrete vent shafts that obviously served underground areas of some sort. I know where I'd be digging.....

Do they think the shafts are rigged to prevent entry that's why digging else where

3 hours ago, Hoseman said:

If anybody needs traditional wooden HAND MADE tent pegs can I suggest The Scout Store, online.

All correctly made, the grain in the right places, different sizes and lengths and VERY CHEAP.  Cheapest I’ve seen, I got 20 X 9” for £15.00  inc postage .

Thanks for the tip, just need to find what size for the tent, don't have the enthusiasm to unpack and look at the moment

2 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

12x12s make good paint booths! I painted my old Sqns Trabant in a 12x12.

Somebody said they use one as a car port

Quote

Brain dead, long day including picking tent up, never thought at the moment but thought to search online but thought ask the experts on this site first

Just bought the thing, need to check contents but been told pegs to hold "skirt" in place not included, can remember to erect roof and poles to mid way first before pulling canvas over then fit lower poles.

Now the questions

1. Any one have a manual to check parts and erection

2. A guide to repair the canvas

3. Size of pegs for "Skirt" have been supplied the strap and pegs for the storm event

4. Any other advice apart from "WHY"

Thanks

Richard

Thanks for the answers, I read about the paint in the LRO Magazine and thought would ask

1 hour ago, Scammell4199 said:

They have the Upol Aicd#8 stuff as an aerosol in Halfords. Good for small bits and to do a test.

Yes thanks for the reminder, will see if I can get some from scrap to try first

15 minutes ago, sirhc said:

If you scroll up to the photos posted earlier you can see the winch, the back door and the rope hanging over the pulley above the door.

Told you me being thick

14 minutes ago, sirhc said:

In the back!

Sorry me being thick no doubt, I assume that goes out to the rear of the vehicle,?

2 minutes ago, sirhc said:

One for Robin...

Thanks, but where is the winch?

For those of a grey funnel background any chance of some general external pictures to try and place things in context?

It does look in good condition

Reading the response I need to do some more research before attempting anything. I am looking at small scale maybe 1m at a time. And occasionally, so wonder on shelf life of these products

22 hours ago, ruxy said:

The acid burns in to get GRIP,  often these primers are water based.

There are chemical 'pre-treatment' for difficult metals such as aluminium and stainless steels, used at wash stage prior to dry-powder or wet stove enamel. Then you just use the finish coat , so similar acid chemical(s) within a primer.

You may read about 'shop-primers' on new body panels , just a anti-corrosion primer for storage as spares - you may come across these on very cheap aftermarket body panels, up to you to strip and re-prime.  Better aftermarket panels have quite a good primer - same as OEM - that you can't better.  Land Rover 'Birmabright' panels (genuine) have had a good primer that you just de-nib & clean since late '70's.   I understand most are alonized (not anodised) in any case prior and you don't wish to damage that.

Aluminium grades - without use of acid etch ,  You just well rough with a course production paper (not under P220)  and apply primer (I always used a cellulose basic).

---------------------------------------

Upoxy  SUPER ETCH  , is just that  !  the best of all..

Upoxy Research Ltd , nr Edinburgh have been around many years for good reason(s).   The trade use it for wings , plastic bumpers etc.

Thanks, not far from Edinburgh

Many thanks, just trying to get my head around this as never done before but considering it for repairs tec

Richard

I have read a lot both here and elsewhere regarding Etching Paint.

If I have read correctly its to be used on bare metal, not metal already painted, is this correct?

Assuming Correct I assume I need to clean all paint, not clean rust areas then etch?

Can any one advise a good supplier for the novice

Thanks

Richard

Does any one have a copy of the form used to record the vehicles mileage etc. for the 1980,'s I have a VUR for the |Navy but not one for the Army or RAF.

Just would like a set for the Land Rover

Thanks

Richard

12 hours ago, sirhc said:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253834930367

I have bought this now, thanks

Thanks, how do other people find and I can't is one of those things

I have found that I may need to replace the sheet metal axe bracket, last resort a blacksmith. I have contacted both John Craddock and Dunsfield and they do not have any, the code for the earlier one and this appears to be the same.

I have the bolt and a source for the spacer

Can anyone help

Richard

Noticed Withams were closed at weekends now

19 hours ago, johnwardle said:

By what I can remember seeing when they were in service, 95 pattern combats with a green open face helmet and black gloves. So nice and easy to source.

Many thanks, will start looking

3 hours ago, MatchFuzee said:

Unless you have it already, here is a pdf for named manuals for Harley Davidson MT360

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/678397/2017-13198.pdf

You may not believe it but that looks like my FOI, but many thanks