scott9643

Radios? don't make me laugh! Not for you gunners, they're reserved for people that don't keep breaking things! Map? Ha ha ha, no maps me ole son -- here's your route card -- off you go

Join this group and try making the request on this Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/AustinK9/

These pictures were taken in 2006, I've got some taken earlier, but I'll have to look them out

I thought I recognised this truck, have a look at this thread -- http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?13244-Bedford-QL-Trooper You'll see that nothing much has changed in the last few years. When I first saw this truck, it was sat in Kings yard at Bishops Lydeard near Taunton. I believe Kings bought it from an Army disposal sale, probably Ruddington and had used it to ferry workers to their various jobs. Kings were a very old firm of road contractors and when they folded the contents of the yard were auctioned off. The sale included a number of steam rollers and steam lorries as well as 40s and 50s lorries all in an abandoned state. This QL was sat beside two ERF tippers and was in remarkably good condition other than the rear diff was missing, you could tell because the rear axle was split in half. The body was complete with all the seats -- and in answer to your question about the box -- yes it is original and was fitted to the floor at the front. A farmer from Crowcombe bought the truck, they bolted the axle back together without the diff and drove it home on the front axle and this is how it remained for many years as the truck was in regular use around the farm.

Just fitted 4 of these STA tyres from Withams to our K9 and for the record, they are 12 ply and fit British rims. Interestingly, they are labelled as Bedford genuine parts, so I can only imagine they were bought for the Beddy Light and have been held in store somewhere. They are in new condition and include flaps. The only difference between these American pattern tyres and the British pattern is that these have square shoulders, whereas the British types have round shoulders, but how serious do you want to get over this? They look brilliant and only you and I could spot the difference. I've now got at least 8 second handers if anybody is interested. PM me for photos - I shall be listing them on flea bay after the rally season

Many thanks for the information Richard and Clive

Thanks for the reply Clive. Would you say that the outputs are the same and the differences are just the positioning of the dowel pin holes? If so then I guess it would fit in the brackets under a K9 if the dowel pin was left out. Would you know if the electrical connection is the same? Thanks Armoured Farmer for correct part number for the K9 This dynamo is for sale if there is any interest

Can anybody tell what this generator fits please. It's new old stock in a crate and I suspect it's an underfloor generator for an Austin K9 or similar for charging batteries, but I'd be glad if someone could confirm from an old CAV parts list or similar -- thanks

Pre 1960 CAT B, providing classed as a historic vehicle and not being used for hire or reward. If the vehicle is to remain classed as a fire engine, it must have a working pump, carry water and be capable of delivering it, so if it's being used for film work, then you will need a CAT C. Well done Brooky for pointing that out.

Yes, it's the same bit of kit, four carried on the Scammell, two across the body retained by those rods, and one along each side as you describe.

Looks like the rods that stop the gun planks from sliding out, they've generally got a turn buckle in the end to keep them there

Have to agree with the comment regarding aerials, we always refer to those people as belonging to the aerial display team, but again, each to his own. I would comment though, having had the experience, that moving into location and camming up was loads easier without aerials, so off came the whips before we moved off - no coms, no bombs! On the theme of the thread though, I can vividly remember tanks and sometimes Ferrets flying pennants, and I don't know, but I always assumed they were for identifying squadrons - a pennant being a small triangular shape flag about 9 inches long of course, as opposed to the 5 foot by 3 foot union jack that everybody had in the war - I know it's true, I've seen the film!

Acrylic lacquer is OK, but it doesn't gloss up like 2K clear and adhesion is the usual problem. Despite claims of high gloss finish, acrylic lacquer dries so fast, almost as soon as it leaves the gun, getting a gun finish us nigh on impossible, but it does polish and will come up, but you'll need a polishing machine for best results. As soon as the base coat is on, go straight on with the lacquer​, the longer you leave it, and I mean minutes, the less chance there is of the lacquer sticking to the colour, it'll be alright short term, but often, once the sun gets to it, the clear peals off. Seeing your Rangey is that new, I'd go for killing off those horses (joke) because you'll never get the finish to match, leave alone the colour

Iain is exactly right -- go here for advice -- http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/The-basics-of-Cellulose-Paint-/10000000177245169/g.html -- and note the point about cellulose being an aggressive material -- it will cause all sorts of problems if your preparation isn't of a high standard. My original point about it being illegal to sell was prompted from your intended use -- I assumed your Rangerover was a modern vehicle although I appreciate that the original Classis Rangerover is in fact a "classic" vehicle. You didn't say what age it is, so apologies. It is interesting that the law makers in their infinite wisdom have not clarified what constitutes a classic vehicle or an industrial process or how they were going to police the use, and if you can buy the paint on line, who's to say what you are going to use it for. Despite the claims of any colour mixed though, you're going to find that the colour range is quite limited and restricted to older colours as formulas won't be available for modern colours and because modern body shops -- the greatest users of refinishing materials don't use cellulose any more, the vast majority of suppliers to the refinishing trade don't stock cellulose paint materials any more, (a) because of the law on VOCs and (b) because of the low demand for the material. All that said, as Iain says, there are many suppliers on line, just tab in cellulose paint on a search engine and loads of suppliers come up including the firm he recommended who have an excellent website and offer paint 'kits'. Your question about what can you put on top of cellulose primer -- anything. If the primer doesn't lift or rizzle what's underneath you're probably OK. I use it all the time, but remember, primer is porous, if you leave what you've primed out in the rain, the rust will come through (probably not on a Rangerover though having aluminium panels)

You'll be lucky! Cellulose paint has been outlawed and suppliers told they'll be fined for selling it, however, you can still buy cellulose primer and thinner, but not colour now. You said you want to use it for your Rangerover, well cellulose used to be the industry standard years ago for paint repairs, but not any more, most if not all body shops use high volume low pressure paint systems and water based paints, even two pack (2K) paints are losing favour due to euro emmision laws and of course the dreaded cyanide content, but if you take the right safety precautions -- no problems and brilliant finish -- loads better than cellulose ever was!

I can't help agreeing with Clive on this one -- I reckon this is the most interesting thread on HMVF at the moment!

Bang on Ruxy, I'll go with that, but it may be as simple as poor adjustment or contaminated brake shoes -- the rear oil seals are always suspect! We have also found in the past that the transmission brake has been adjusted at some point by shortening the vertical rod from the bell crank to operating lever and this may have come about from compensating for worn shoes in the past and then of course, once new shoes are fitted the free distance for the linkage is lost and the brake shoe adjuster has little effect on the free play required. I would suggest winding the brake adjuster right out (the handbrake should now not work) and road test to see if it still makes the clatter -- if it doesn't you'll know the problem is inside the drum

One or two pictures here

Quite right and thank you! Bloody predictive text!!!! gerrrrrr

My money is on the clutch. You'll have to bite the bullet, drop the gearbox and take the clutch out for inspection. There are a number of possibilities. Could be oil contamination on the clutch linings from rear crank seal, or less likley from gearbox. Could be burnt flywheel and/or clutch pressure plate from excessive clutch slip in a previous life, look for blueing or crazing on the surfaces, or could be the pressure plate is out of adjustment. It won't be any consultation, but we've got two K9s and they both have clutch judder which is always worse when reversing. We've just got used to using low revs or revving the engine, and letting the clutch out as you come off the throttle and the drive takes up as the revs die down (takes a bit of practise but saves the shudder) No doubt we'll do the clutch at some point - more expense!

Is that methanol resistant or alcohol resistant. The foam containers should have a label stating what type of foam it is, and it sounds as though it could be AR-AFFF (Alcohol Resistant Aqueous Film Forming Foams)as used by the RAF years ago for example for containing fuel fires. It is synthetic and therefore not bio-degradable and illegal to use now days so I would recommend disposing of it -- responsibly -- do not pour it down a drain, it needs to go to a specialist disposal point for burning. It is most likely the foam was loaded on the appliance during the Firefighters strike of 1977 as the green goddesses were drawn from Home Office Stores and operated by the Military, Army, RAF and Navy and certainly down here in Somerset they were equipped by the Fire Service with foam branches and the more common foam of the day AFFF, also illegal now. Foam has a 5 year life and should be disposed of especially if it's been sat about in a container because it degrades and will cause all sorts of problems with the pump if used, so don't be tempted to run it through the pump, the cost of parts is prohibitive. If it was left on the appliance it is quite likely it was already out of date and the user didn't want it back because of the cost of disposing of it. Just about everybody's Fire Brigade tried to get rid of its bulk foam at Bunsfield when the refinery went up a few years ago, they had more foam than they knew what to with, and most Brigades got theirs back.

Agree with all the plus points on this thread and empathise with the bad ones, thirsty yes but if that phases you, you can't be serious about owning a Saracen. We don't talk about it other than to say ours does smiles to the mile ..........

Cromadex 222 range single pack rapid air drying topcoat - brilliant stuff, brush or spray and at around £40.00 odd quid for 5 litres, not a bad price. Google Cromadex, there are full data sheets on their website, and they deliver!

Issued and worn on many an exercise. Crap hats we used to call them - very unpopular as I recall

Have you still got the BSA manual (no4 in your list) if so I'd be very interested please. Kindly pm me Thanks - Malcolm