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Tamber

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About Tamber

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  1. Tamber

    More Ferret woes, now oil leak!

    Now, this is just a thought from someone with no experience of a Ferret, but... I would have to wonder if the gains would be worth the extra heat, complexity, and stress on the engine. Heat very quickly becomes a problem on a significant number of vehicles modified by turbo or supercharging, even when they're not as heavy and covered in armour plate! And that's even before getting into the question of space limitations within the engine bay. And if you did get a worthwhile increase in power, that's putting more stress on the rest of the drive-train. (etc etc) Fuel injection is within the realm of possibility, and I am admittedly a fan of it (When it's not a locked up, un-diagnosable black box, anyway...), but again I'd wonder about the value of the gains one might see from that conversion. Perhaps if you're using a Ferret as a daily driver, you could eke out a bit more fuel efficiency?
  2. Tamber

    Wire size

    Modern vehicle wiring, as mentioned, tends to be engineered down to a spec; as thin a wire as the manufacturer can get away with (Helps shave costs, weight, and makes it easier to fit the not-insignificant amounts of cable required for all the gubbins that manufacturers cram into a modern vehicle.) , and designing to avoid long runs that need to transmit high current (To allow the use of smaller cable, etc.) Older vehicle wiring tends to be simpler, and do things that result in long runs that have to carry a high current; for example, headlights, powered directly via the switch... And it's those types of cable runs that could potentially stand to benefit from thicker cable; others, like low-wattage lights, I'd say keeping it the original size is probably better simply from the standpoint of saving money on wire. (I say this, having a not insignificant collection of wire spools already. Vehicle wiring is kinda my thing, in case you couldn't tell.) So my 'simple' answer is: It depends. Headlight wiring, starter solenoid wiring, etc? Go to a slightly bigger cable. Something like sidelight wiring? Unless there's a measurable voltage drop or the lights are dimmer than they should be, using the same size cable will be fine.
  3. Tamber

    Who's going out in the snow then?

    Maybe one day!
  4. Tamber

    Mk1 Militant Tanker

    I always look at this not as "cutting up a new part" but as buying a conveniently pre-assembled kit of parts to save a bit of time.
  5. Yep! Fire-watch is essential, and -- hopefully -- tedious. It's amazing how things can seemingly move around of their own accord and decide to settle down somewhere before smouldering.
  6. I only had a little cutting torch, so I only needed a little fire extinguisher; that's how it works, right? I did my best to block any fire or molten metal reaching wiring (or rubber fuel line; that would have been exciting!) with a scrap piece of ally plate. Fire extinguisher was kept close to hand at all times, too. I'm trying to keep my spirits up and keep going at it; as long as I'm still taking steps forward, even little ones, I'm still making progress. It's definitely helping that the days are getting longer, and the weather has stayed nice for a few days.
  7. So! I did indeed get to roll my generator and grinders out; I got what I could with the 7", but it turned out to be too bulky and I switched to the 4"... which turned out to still be too tricky to get in at some parts. And that resulted in me finally collecting a sufficiently circular Tuit, then heading up to the local hobbyweld supplier for a bottle of oxygen. (I have had a small set of burning gear for *years*, but never gotten around to heading out and picking up the oxy cylinder. ) This is where I left off after last week: Today, however, there was fire; and progress happened. I'm now getting much closer to having sufficient grot removed that I can start putting metal back in, which will be an amazing feeling; because as it is, I feel more like the scrap-man, I'm doing that much cutting! And the pile of scrap from these last two outings: I'm getting closer and closer to having that new bit of box section welded in place; whereupon I can see what space I have left to wiggle a rubber body-mount into, in place of the original, and will have a place to start building the floor back out from. Thankfully, the floor is pretty solid for the most part; around the rear and side of the passenger seat is where it's the worst, but there's enough of it left that I can work back from. I'll claw this back, one piece at a time! Might not be quick, nor particularly pretty; but it'll be solid. I can always come back and re-do the uglier parts in the future, when I've gotten better at the job and improved my skill. But, for now, "ugly & solid" is better than "gaping hole"
  8. Tamber

    Welding Ferrets

    Just chiming in with an agreement on this: Generally, I believe, the harder the material you're drilling, the shallower the point/included angle. It really isn't always as easy and clear-cut as one would like with spark tests, test-drilling, etc... It's almost like the material's out to get you, sometimes! (You'd think, by now, I'd be able to recognise AR plate vs mild steel plate; working in a shop that does a lot of both, but I have mostly learnt to recognise it by how it nigh-instantly dulls the bit when I start drilling into it, after profiling it out, etc, etc. ) Good to know the methods for spotting armour plate, though; just in case!
  9. Alrighty then! Since I'm doing my best to power on through burn-out at work sapping my will to live work on this hulk, I've dragged myself back onto the forum! The driver's door has been re-re-welded in places (Apparently, my inner reinforcement bar was not stuck where I thought it had stuck, so broke free and pulled a few little holes in the door skin in the process. Sigh.), and the tab for the bottom of the mirror arm has been welded on. I've also treated half of the inner surfaces of the door with rust converter, so I have to follow that up to the other side, and then go back in with some paint. Then I can put that back together, and re-fit it to the truck, which looks a little silly without it. L...ast week, I think? (It all blurs together), I did some more chopping and hacking of the rotten cab structure. Decided to do a video in a different style, a sort of faux time-lapse method; involving videoing it, then speeding up all the tedious bits to make them marginally less tedious. It did not work very well. Nevertheless, here it is: I don't think I'll continue that style of video, it's just too mind-numbing to edit and watch. Currently, the plan is -- weather, light, and mood permitting -- to roll my generator out to the old gal and finish removing that rotted-out section with a full-size angle grinder. Then I'll do my best to clean out & apply rust converter and paint to the inside of the other section where it doesn't appear to be as bad, before cutting a length of replacement box section to length and welding it in. It's just too cold and wet to be rolling around underneath the truck, in all the puddles, bending brake line.
  10. Tamber

    Graveyard

    Wow, there's certainly some stuff in there!
  11. Tamber

    1914 Dennis Lorry

    It is possible to MIG aluminium without a spool gun or push-pull (We do so daily at work.), but using either a spool-gun or push-pull makes life easier if it's available. Ideally, though, aluminium is welded using AC; it will work with your standard DC welder as used for steel, but the welds will be sooty, and generally not as neat/clean as ones done under AC. As for changes to run aluminium wire: Change the liner out to a smooth teflon one, as opposed to the wound one used for steel (It also helps to try feed the liner in so it's as close to the rollers as possible, to minimise the unsupported length of wire so the soft aluminium wire doesn't kink and bird-nest. It probably still will, at the slightest provocation, though.); run a little less pressure on the rollers, to avoid squashing the wire; and keep the torch lead as straight as possible. Oh, and keep the swear jar handy, because it probably will scrunch the wire up for seemingly no reason.
  12. For a giggle, some more progress on the door: MIG'd by the tack-tack-tack method. There were a few blow-throughs. Done with stick. A few holes were where I was using 1.6mm rods that are mostly flux and spite, which meant longer arc times to deposit metal; turned out to be easier to use 2.5mm rods on the same power setting... probably because they were putting more metal down so could actually build it up quicker, and reduce the amount of heat I put in. While welding with MIG is quicker, it's the set-up time that gets me. Sometimes it's just easier to set up my little suitcase stick set than it is to hunt down a working MIG welder that isn't in use, chase down a 3-phase extension (or two... or three... depending on how far away the nearest socket is) and perhaps a Y-splitter, and get it all hooked up before someone runs away with the welder. Not the prettiest, especially where trying to build up gaps, but it's solid now. Once again putting the age-old phrase to work: A grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't. Primed up to stop it rusting away while I figure out how best to attack cleaning out & treating the innards. Fine tuning and filling to come when I know it's all back in shape enough that it won't require any prying or persuasion that would crack the filler out.
  13. It's amazing how much stuff turns up, when y'say you can't find something!
  14. That's not me, not even under a different name. Doesn't seem like he had much luck hunting them down, either! Were they used to test some sort of invisibility generator for artillery tractors, or something? Thanks! That's a nice little picture... at least proves they weren't invisible to cameras. Attached, for some semblance of reference -- I guess -- are the figures from the EMER supplement.
  15. There really doesn't seem to be a whole lot of information out there about the RL Field Artillery Tractors, unless I'm missing something really obvious. My first run-in with any mention of the RL in a FA tractor role was stumbling across supplement 5 in EMER F-172, issued May 1962: "BODY, TRACTOR, 3 TON, FIELD ARTILLERY, 4 x 4, BEDFORD, MODELS RLF and RLW" Wikipedia makes mention of them in a single bullet-point: The EMER supplement lists them as "a quantity of Cargo vehicles [...] converted to the Field Arty. role; [...] conversion effected by REME." (I would like to attach the 6 page PDF of the supplement, but don't know if that'd be frowned upon.) In summary, however: A locking device on the cab left-hand door, to lock the door in the open position A grip handle above the left-hand door. Modified towing attachment bracket to strengthen and lower the towing hook Stowage cabinets added on both sides. The upper cabinets' compartment doors replacing the two forward body panels; and stowage cabinets slung under the body platform. Additionally, a pair of "normal MT stowage boxes are located at the body front" on the left-hand side, and a cabinet between the body front and cab rear on the right-hand side. Doors in the body sides, with steps. (On the RLW, metal steps provided on the right-hand side, but only a tread in the lid of the underslung cabinet on the left-hand side.) Fuel-can carrier from LHS and tool-box from RHS both removed. Spare wheel mounted on a pedestal on the front of the body, removed down a folding ramp thing on the LHS. Bench seating, for members of the gun crew (presumably), at the rear of the vehicle body on the RLW conversions Does anyone have any pictures of these in use? Any interesting stories about one? *grin*
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