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Tamber

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About Tamber

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  1. Definitely worth doing while the bits are still around! It's not so much of a problem where there are modern alternatives that can be made to work (like the hub seals), but for things like the tracta joint seals... that seems like it's going to be very much "When it's gone, it's gone". Good to hear! Should hopefully be an easy fix. Likewise the front hub seal! That sort of thing is still a problem on modern vehicles with modern seals. Oil just has a habit of getting everywhere... 😁 Thanks! I'll admit, I've not made a great lot of progress of late. There has been a bunch of not terribly interesting cleaning, scraping, sanding, and painting going on; and the engine stuff is stalled for the time being. I really need to go ahead and order more steel for the continuing cab reconstruction, though...
  2. The hub seals (front and rear are the same as far as I can tell) were from a local bearings & seals supplier. They're a 3.68x5.12x0.5 inch double lip oil seal. Cost me a little over £9 apiece, and they seem to be working so far; but I haven't done any great amount of driving yet so all that really says is that they don't instantly disintegrate. The brake cylinders were an ebay find, I'm afraid. New old-stock stuff. I have still got the old ones, and a reseal kit that purports to be for those cylinders, but I haven't even investigated the ones I took off. (And the old fronts appear to be pretty much completely scrap, but again I haven't put too much time into investigating whether or not they're actually beyond repair, since I've not found a reseal kit for them, so I could be pleasantly surprised.) And you didn't ask, since you're only doing the rears, but... Tracta joint seals and the springs that go with them, for the fronts, I got from thexmod.com, recommended by Frankenhealey on RetroRides. The seals are https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=2854&t=Seal_Oil_Tracta_Housing_6350119 and you'll require two of them. The springs that go with them are https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=6196&t=Spring_Oil_Seal_7065773 and that listing is for one. You will need four. Don't do like I did and buy 2, thinking it was a pair. (...and then screw up again when going to get another pair, and end up with only one. ...honestly, if my head wasn't screwed on...) And as for the cab... the more I poke and pry, the more scared I am that I took it up to the heady speed of 30 mph... and I'm really glad that I didn't have that rear prop while I still had access to enough room to get up even more speed. 😱 Then again, with as many stuck rings as I had, I might not have had the power to get any faster in 2wd. 😁
  3. Since the last post, I have: Finished up the tacho/hazard/indicator pod. It's not perfect, but perfectly functional and I can live with that for now. (Priority for the time being is to aim for roadworthy and sound.) I do need to make an adapter for the original air-gauge mount, to take it from the oddball size down to 52mm for that nice twin-circuit air gauge. Also I might need to add in a little warning lamp for the hazards somewhere but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. (The switch isn't illuminated, and the indicator switch doesn't -- and can't -- flash with the hazards.) Started some paint/rust stripping, and priming inside the cab I was going to just use the grey primer I have, but I had some of the etch primer already out and left over from giving the front wings another coat. The floors have since got a little red-oxide because, again, I had some of that out from painting other things. The grey primer would be more ideal, since I plan on the inside of the cab being a grey colour anyway, but hey. It's got paint on it, that should slow the rust a touch. Got the first piece of new floor in! ...okay, it's only the bit immediately behind the battery-box, but it counts. Made in two parts so that I could make a neat(ish) job of putting a hole in for the wiring to pass through. Welds on the side of the battery box still need dressing back; the picture makes them look worse than they are. And they don't look all that pretty anyway; having to do chain-of-tacks doesn't really give the flux-core time to warm up and do its job, so they look really really ugly before they get dressed back. Bracketry! Quite stout bracketry at that. This ties the outer edges of the cab frame to the rear crossmember quite rigidly. Once I'd done this, the passenger door stopped being quite so stubborn to open, as the cab would sag and bind things up once I started to open it before. I also did the other side, too. So that's progress. (And then I spent the rest of the evening laying under the truck, pondering.) Pondering! "Hmm... I wonder if I could put a hydraulic pump on that PTO instead? I'd have to run the winch with a hydraulic motor, though." And I reckon I could, too! I would have to build more brackets, though, and it's not like I'd really need the ability to run the winch in either direction at a moment's notice like that. Can't really say I have any real need for other hydraulic equipment either; but I might just work it out as a thought experiment anyway. Either way, the winch definitely needs some attention, though. Just about everywhere it's possible for it to leak oil, it is doing. (That'd be down the splines for the input flange, then. 😒) Oh, and some other bits fell out of the engine, too. Oh no. Anyway, here's Vandervell... *strums guitar* (Bradford Grinders has them in stock, and I was pleasantly surprised at the price.) Oh, and on the note of engine parts... One ... well, six more pieces of the puzzle. All but one of the bores have cleaned up with a honing; but they're right on the outer end of the spec, and №4 has scoring that still catches the thumbnail even after honing. If not for the scoring, I would probably build it up like that and run it anyway; but as it is, I'd rather not. Going to be at this forever, at this rate! In hindsight, I probably should've ordered the +.020 pistons and just accepted I was going to need to run the block to the machine-shop to have it bored out. Ah well.
  4. I could probably weigh them when I've gotten them all off, and see how much of a difference there is; unless it's vastly different, it's probably fine for what is -- at the end of the day -- not a high-performance screamer of an engine that lives on the edge, but having 6 matched pistons is more ideal. ...plus this way, I'm not reusing that battered No.4 piston again 😁
  5. Yesterday! So, taking advantage of the last good day before the weather moves in... ... Several hours of sanding, scraping, and cursing in full sun *melts* Which gets me this: This wing appears to have been replaced in commercial life, having a black undercoat and then the yellow paint atop it. Very well adhered, as opposed to the prior wing... which was yellow paint over four layers of flaking DBG. Anyway, it came off eventually, exposing some slight pin-holes. Easily fixed, then primed. (I could've blended it in a bit more, and made it disappear completely; but I didn't.) Matched set! 😁 One with factory spot-welds, the other with some gas-weld stitches. Presumably after someone had an oopsie. 😁 (Not entirely sure if I added to any of those dents with the escape from that yard, but I don't think I did much beyond scraping some paint and bending the bumper that I straightened back out before painting.) Also, as of last night -- 2am ebay session. It's dangerous, I tells ya! -- I have some NOS Hepolite pistons on their way from Limmasol. So, all being well, that should sort me out nicely for pistons & rings.
  6. April: Mostly paint... And a little roof-patching, so I can refit the wiper spindle: Will definitely need to get further into that inner portion to rust-treat and paint, but for now it will have to do. (...that is not how that linkage goes back together, I'm pretty sure; but I can't remember how it was before I took it out, and I don't appear to have any pictures.) Flush with success from that, I went to free up the other spindle to try have a matching pair. And twisted off the spindle shaft trying to turn it. Okay, I'll have to make a new shaft, just need to get the remains of the seized old one out... ...and then I managed to snap the cast outer, trying to drift the remains of the shaft out. Marvellous. It's not the end of the world to come up with a replacement, though; and I've got something drawn up that I can leave with a local engineering firm to make, at some point in the future. Might as well make a bit of a feature of it, I suppose. 😁 Front bumper prettification mostly done: Not turned out perfectly, with a few tiny flakes here and there, and a couple of spots where primer bled under the masking. I'll just call it "retro-realism" or something. 😁 Panel removal continued with the other wing: I'm impressed that it all undid, and I think I only snapped two bolts in total between the two wings. I now have a good bit more access for cleaning & painting the chassis, and repairing those front cab mounts when I get to that. Friday I must say, they did quite a good job hiding that dent. There's also other very visible signs of previous repair work, done with an eye towards function more than form. That aside, I'm very impressed with how solid the panel is. What previous repair work? Well, if I may highlight it a little: (Yes, I did only spot that bit that I missed on the inside of the headlight hole when I looked back at this photo. 😒) And with the good weather only forecast for another day, the next portion was to do the opposite side. (Which I'd already partially started, with cleaning & painting the back-side.)
  7. That looks to be one of the proper Light Recovery variants; quite different equipment on them. They were built right from the get-go as a (pretty well-equipped, judging by the EMER) recovery vehicle; whereas 11CE32 was a cargo truck, with winch, that got a fixed jib installed upon entry to commercial life. Commercial life also seems to have granted 11CE32 something else I didn't expect; I've done some measuring and some maths, and it seems like the engine that's in there is higher compression than I expected. (Being what appears to be a later engine; my boss asked how many coolant ports there were in the back of the block, and reminisced about being able to tell whether it was an early or late block by the size of the bump on the back of the head. ) As best I can tell, it's somewhere in the region of 7.5:1, which will do me very nicely, I think. I've also had the main-caps off, and the main bearings look like exactly like the rod bearings: Pretty much brand new, which is another pleasant surprise. As far as the work I foresee for the engine, starting with the block: The bores have a little wear, but it's not excessive. I think a light hone, and some new rings, should see her out for a good few years. (But it might be a good idea for me to get a set of liners, further down the line, just to have in stock.) Replace the piston in №4, since it seems like it's seen some debris. (Possibly that screw that went walkies from the carb. 😳) A bunch of cleaning (And some paint. The appropriate shade of Sky Blue, of course~) Track down the appropriate 4WD sump and oil pickup, to avoid any more unfortunate incidents of self-clearance occurring) For the head? Other than the known bent valve (and probably trashed valve-guide), I don't yet think it'll need much work either, just a light refresh. Still need to give it a proper double-check for flatness, but hopefully that doesn't turn up any horrible surprises.
  8. Okay, they should be showing now. We'll see how long for, before everything falls back over again. 😁
  9. Argh. I'm pretty sure I know what's causing it. Everything wants to load them over SSL, and nothing likes the certificate on my server. That's gonna be a colossal pain in the backside to sort, but I'll see what I can do.
  10. ...where was I last? Ah, yes. Peering into the engine and making some wild-ass assumptions. Since then: Not insurmountable, but some portions might be a little tricky with restricted access. We shall see. Thankfully, the other side is much better: Anyway, following on from that, some other bits "fell off": Amazingly, it came off without much of a fight. However, the extra light and room afforded by removing the engine and this corner panel exposes some more joys to be dealt with in due course: I have a plan of attack for dealing with this, too. But that can come after I have dealt with the rear of the cab a bit more. I need to clean up some of my older welding -- from when I was stick-welding the brackets on in a muddy car-park -- where my priority was to stop the cab from falling off completely. More of the wiring was shifted around, run in different places, and generally modified. In retrospect it would've been better to make the wiring up after all the structural work was done but ho-hum, I've learnt things over the course of doing this that would make it easier if I had to do it again. Further on from then, the handbrake bracket came off (It just came off in my hand, honest!): It was at this point I thought to try the brake light pressure switch in that junction, that I couldn't do so easily when the engine was in the way. Turns out, it still works, which is nice; but I am missing one of the screws. It's a pretty common part, so easily replaceable even if I might hate myself when I have to bleed the brakes afterwards. Anyway, with that bracketry out of the way, I could continue my cross-member replacement programme: Access wasn't quite so good on the other side, due to some floor panel that stubbornly remains in the way but that I am loathe to remove in case it's holding things in place. There is precious little metal of any real structure remaining in the lower back of the cab. All tidied up with a bit of grinder action, and protected with lashings of red primer. Then, when that was done, I used my last cutting disc to neaten up the back of the cab, to make it easier to fit new metal down the line: Then the world went even more to pot, and that has somewhat stopped play for the time being. I did get the chance to get some bore measurements, to determine how worn the bores are and whether or not they're in a range that can clean up without too much trouble. (I've also been trying to order in parts, scratching my head over whether or not it's possible to increase compression just a smidge without spending ludicrous money on completely custom parts, trying to figure out what engine is actually in the truck (Because just when I think I've got it all figured out, I find another part of the manual that makes me start second-guessing it), and all sorts of other things because I'm not sure what I can attack next that doesn't need parts I don't have. 😁)
  11. Makes sense that there'd be a pickup difference between the two. Might have to track those bits down, if I don't want it to end up dinging it again. Anyway, rod bearings look pretty much brand-new. Rod journals look great, too. Some unusual pistons. There are two types of piston in this engine, one type stamped 'B' in the crown, the other stamped 'Y' and looks pretty snazzy: (For some reason, I struggled to get a decent picture of the pistons at all; this one has a torch shining up under the piston skirt, to show the interesting cuts and whatnot. The 'B' type piston has fewer cuts/slots in the skirt, and (I think) a heavier skirt overall. I'll try and get better pictures after I've given them a proper cleaning. (Also, unsurprisingly, there were a few stuck rings.) Also, as for the bores, it's No.4 with the vertical scoring. Does seem like it should hone out okay, though it's a bit beyond a quick DIY hone. I'll give the place work uses a ring and see what they say.
  12. Yup, that's the one that's accessed through the flap in the side-tin. The other one is much shorter, mounted lower and further to the rear of the engine (just behind the oil pump.) Flat steel blade type, stamped with 'MIN' and 'MAX'; MIN lines up with the top of the filter screen on the oil pump, MAX is an inch or two up from that. I'll definitely give it some closer investigation next time I'm up at the workshop.
  13. Thanks! It certainly took some perseverance! I loosely followed the EMER for the cradle, but don't have a trolley jack quite up to that sort of job. And yeah, solid wheels certainly seem to be the way to go, along with a sheet to lay on the ground to at least give me a flat surface to work with. It does seem like it's the wrong sump, a centre well that's very close to the front diff. I already suspected this is a rebuilt engine, but possibly a bitsa using parts that were to hand, in its commercial life? Either way, I'm sure it could tell some stories... EDIT: ...would that perhaps explain why there are two dipsticks, then? There's one that's accessible through the usual flap in the engine tin, and a much shorter one that goes down into the central sump right next to the oil pump, that you can only really get at from underneath the cab.
  14. Also, I've yet to pull the pistons & rods out (I was meant to do that today, but I've spent the entire day in a sleepy haze so I didn't head up to the workshop. 's been a couple of days this week where I've not really woken up until it's just about going dark, and I'm not sure why.) but a quick inspection of the bores while barring the engine over has shown a couple of cylinders with marks to the wall. One of which (I want to say it's No.4) looks to be corrosion from moisture, the other is vertical scratches. Knocking the pistons out will really let me find out; it would not surprise me if there's broken rings or other damage in there. The marks don't seem to be very deep, but they're enough to catch a fingernail.
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