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About Tamber

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  1. Thanks! No idea how I manglaged that. 😁
  2. Tamber

    Movie editing

    For what little it's worth, I use OpenShot for editing my video; I'm not really sure how it compares to other video editing software for ease of use, and it can be an exercise in patience as the amount of video loaded into it gets larger.
  3. Now, I didn't get a great lot done last week, when I stuck on an Überbräcket at the back for another twirly light amongst some other puttering about The Überbräcket, named because it's only holding up a twirly light the same as the one on the roof, yet I made it out of a piece of 10mm (3/8"-ish) steel that I had laying around that was the right size, and severely welded it. It's not bloody coming off without taking the crane with it, I think! Our victim, after a little marking out: After some weldering: It feels surprisingly high up; but that plate is just about eye level if you're stood on the bed of the truck. Well, as long as you're short, like me. And with the twirly stuck on it... Not too worried about it not really being visible from the left hand side, it's mostly just to act as a 'repeater' to the rear of the truck, where the jib blocks the view to the one on the roof. Anyway, the lesson here is: if you see a chunk of something getting chucked in the scrap bin that looks useful, snag it and put it in your overflowing box of "Might be useful, that" bits. Then, maintain your hoard jealously, just in case you might need those bits; which inevitably happens just after you throw them out... Some other trinkets while I was re-exploring the side lockers... This has got a bit of age on it! Fairly sure it's older than I am, anyway. And it has not aged terribly well... Looks pretty cool, though. On more practical matters... I think I have a solution to the brake servo valve. Rather than try re-engineer the internals of the original valve, my current plan is to take an off-the-shelf part and use it kinda as it's intended to be used. I've gotten myself a foot brake valve from a DAF CF (but they're all fairly similar, really. It's fundamentally the same valve as has been used for decades.), and the intent is to fabricate a bracket that mounts it up near the brake pedal such that I can fit a little push-rod from the existing pedal linkage to operate the valve exactly as it is in the air-braked truck. There will be some careful measuring & design going on to get things in the right place to produce the correct throw on the foot-brake valve, relative to the pedal movement. Wheely silly bits... While I was fiddling about last week, I also did some playing about with a modern truck wheel that was laying about nearby. (I think it belonged to the bus company that was here before.) Gloss black would look good. As good as it looks, there's some slight clearance issues. Some faffing about with measuring offsets, widths, etc. ensues. Currently trying to work out what I can get away with, wheel-wise, that lets me fit a fairly standard (modern) on/off M+S type tyre. This 'test wheel' is a 22.5x7.50 and some brief searching tells me that the more normal modern truck wheel is a 22.5x8.25, so I'll try find one of those to check with. Oh, and the offset of the wheel I was testing with puts the inner lip of the wheel hard up against the track rod end, which is less than ideal. I don't think I want that to self-clearance... (And yes, I know the track rod end needs a new boot; it's on the list!) I have a total of 250mm from the mounting face on the hub, to the tie rod end interference; so I shall have to hunt down another wheel, ideally without tyre, and do some more measuring. And to bring you fully up to date... A video, wherein there is some weldening, I look like Darth Vader (black helmet, with a hideous blotchy pink thing inside :D), and some painting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ze9Giv40XA (I would've done the embed thing, but I can't remember how to make the video show up on the page and I've already spent too much time faffing with it! It's been a long week, and it's only a Monday for me!) Yes, my shiny dome got sunburnt. Yes, it hurts. Yes, I should've worn a hat.
  4. That's definitely an option. So far, it doesn't seem to be too bright, and it points away from eye-line when on anyway; we'll see how it works out. In other news items, I did some work! It involved cooking for a little bit in the sun. A little bit of drilling and metal-sticking later, I had this; which was sprayed with weld-through primer. And that fine bit of engineering fits... ...here! This surprisingly only a little jiggery-pokery involved in getting it to fit; mostly in shortening the weld-through tab on the near-side until it fit with the not-exactly-stock battery box. And, a major milestone reached today, with the first metal going back in, in a long time. Still quite a bit more welding to do, particularly on the near-side where it's only tacked into place for now due to access being slightly restricted by cabling; however, with a bit more welding on the offside, I got it to the point I could lift the cab up off the chassis by jacking it by the end of the new cross-member, which is a good sign. This was the result of about 4 or so hours, including about an hour spent trying to get the generator to start, because the battery was flat and I didn't have any jump-leads. However, progress was made, today.
  5. The front panels cleaned up quite nicely, which was a relief, especially considering the paint on the grille was coming off in huge flakes right down to bare metal! Definitely got lucky in that it was still metal, and wasn't just blowing away in the wind! 😁 I might be at it for some time! 😁 The recent stretch of nice weather is definitely helping give more time to get things done, I just now need to start getting things done. Speaking of small progress... Rear brake pipes on the axle finally fully connected up, with the unions I was waiting on. (Automec was the supplier this time.) Rest of the system to follow. ...also some cleaning and painting of that axle, because it looks hideous! And a little switch panel. The ends of the switches illuminate when they're switched on, to serve as the tell-tales. 3 yellow, one blue for the fog light. (I have my suspicions that the blue one may be too bright, from using a similar one at work that was -- as per bloody usual with blue LEDs -- retina-searingly bright. If that turns out to be the case, I'll install a resistor to drop the brightness a little. Or a lottle.) Proper labels will follow when I decide how I want to label it. Self-adhesive labels just seem a bit naff, so it might have to be little brass plates. 😁 This picture also shows the state that the roof is in. I had previously scuffed off all the flaking paint, and shot a quick coat of red primer just to make it easier to see what was going on and what needed fixing. One piece at a time, and all that.
  6. Miniature update, just to note that I'm still here and still making tiny bits of progress! Been struggling a little for motivation recently, but I'm trying to keep pushing onwards on little things that I can see. The list of bits: The gearbox oil was changed. A little thing, but it did need it. No signs of anything horrific in the old oil, which is good news. Next on the list for a fluid change is probably the transfer case. A little more brake pipe has appeared on the rear axle. Some blood was spilt in the process, but I've been informed that's actually for good luck. 😁 Yes, I am going to have to join those with M-M unions. I'm not quite good enough to do the whole run in one go, yet. It has quite a circuitous route to follow, and bending this diameter pipe without kinking it takes some practise. It's certainly easier with 3/16" pipe, for sure! I have enough hard-line left to do only about 90% of the run from the rear flexible pipe, to the master cylinder, naturally. So I'll have to order another length, and use the existing material to plumb the fronts. (Especially considering my material loss rates! I'm getting better at not kinking it while just trying to adjust it that last little bit, though.) I also need to do some hunting around to find somewhere I can get to make up the flexible lines with the 1/2UNF ends, once I'm confident I have the right length worked out. Some cleaning and painting has happened. Not the most vital thing, but it needs doing, and it's a visible improvement that helps with the motivation. with some elbow-grease, wire brushes, and sandpaper, became (I will be replicating the markings once it's painted proper.) Moving forwards, I started knocking off the flaky paint and grime, with the intent of just priming up the areas that were at risk of showing bare metal. Well, then I started getting a little carried away with the brush, since it looked so good! It definitely shows up the areas that need serious attention, though. Which, in a way, is a good thing. The grille really was flaking quite badly, so since I was apparently painting the whole damn truck that day, I decided I'd just carry on with that. Big chunks of paint were coming off, right down to bare metal, so it really did need it to protect against the elements Wire brush in a drill, and a little scraping, cleared this quite well. It really didn't take much to dislodge those big flakes. ...followed up by rust treatment. Kurust, in this case, which is my preferred rust converter. Then, when that dried off, a coat of red-oxide primer followed. Much better! I fitted a new beacon on the roof. It doesn't have quite the same look to it as the old Lucas one, but it has the advantage of working; and it'll do the job quite adequately, once I get it wired in. Fitting that also reminded me just how rough the roof is. Plenty of sheet metal work ahead of me yet, and I really do need to pick up the pace a little, I know. I've stripped the tyre inflater down, cleaned out a lot of grunge, and rebuilt it... and it still leaks air straight through from the output side. Need to dig back into it and see what I can do about that. Not sure whether it's just that the conical rubber portion of the valve is so hard with age that it's not sealing properly against the valve seat, or whether there's something I've missed about how it works. So, unfortunately, it's the same old sad story of not having gotten a lot done. To add further insult, we've had glorious weather for nearly two weeks up here, and rather than spending that time working on the RL, I've been having to fix my car to get it to pass the MOT! (Corrosion and brake pipes, seems to be a bit of a running theme at the moment.) Bah! 🙄
  7. Tamber

    More Ferret woes, now oil leak!

    Now, this is just a thought from someone with no experience of a Ferret, but... I would have to wonder if the gains would be worth the extra heat, complexity, and stress on the engine. Heat very quickly becomes a problem on a significant number of vehicles modified by turbo or supercharging, even when they're not as heavy and covered in armour plate! And that's even before getting into the question of space limitations within the engine bay. And if you did get a worthwhile increase in power, that's putting more stress on the rest of the drive-train. (etc etc) Fuel injection is within the realm of possibility, and I am admittedly a fan of it (When it's not a locked up, un-diagnosable black box, anyway...), but again I'd wonder about the value of the gains one might see from that conversion. Perhaps if you're using a Ferret as a daily driver, you could eke out a bit more fuel efficiency?
  8. Tamber

    Wire size

    Modern vehicle wiring, as mentioned, tends to be engineered down to a spec; as thin a wire as the manufacturer can get away with (Helps shave costs, weight, and makes it easier to fit the not-insignificant amounts of cable required for all the gubbins that manufacturers cram into a modern vehicle.) , and designing to avoid long runs that need to transmit high current (To allow the use of smaller cable, etc.) Older vehicle wiring tends to be simpler, and do things that result in long runs that have to carry a high current; for example, headlights, powered directly via the switch... And it's those types of cable runs that could potentially stand to benefit from thicker cable; others, like low-wattage lights, I'd say keeping it the original size is probably better simply from the standpoint of saving money on wire. (I say this, having a not insignificant collection of wire spools already. Vehicle wiring is kinda my thing, in case you couldn't tell.) So my 'simple' answer is: It depends. Headlight wiring, starter solenoid wiring, etc? Go to a slightly bigger cable. Something like sidelight wiring? Unless there's a measurable voltage drop or the lights are dimmer than they should be, using the same size cable will be fine.
  9. Tamber

    Who's going out in the snow then?

    Maybe one day!
  10. Tamber

    Mk1 Militant Tanker

    I always look at this not as "cutting up a new part" but as buying a conveniently pre-assembled kit of parts to save a bit of time.
  11. Yep! Fire-watch is essential, and -- hopefully -- tedious. It's amazing how things can seemingly move around of their own accord and decide to settle down somewhere before smouldering.
  12. I only had a little cutting torch, so I only needed a little fire extinguisher; that's how it works, right? I did my best to block any fire or molten metal reaching wiring (or rubber fuel line; that would have been exciting!) with a scrap piece of ally plate. Fire extinguisher was kept close to hand at all times, too. I'm trying to keep my spirits up and keep going at it; as long as I'm still taking steps forward, even little ones, I'm still making progress. It's definitely helping that the days are getting longer, and the weather has stayed nice for a few days.
  13. So! I did indeed get to roll my generator and grinders out; I got what I could with the 7", but it turned out to be too bulky and I switched to the 4"... which turned out to still be too tricky to get in at some parts. And that resulted in me finally collecting a sufficiently circular Tuit, then heading up to the local hobbyweld supplier for a bottle of oxygen. (I have had a small set of burning gear for *years*, but never gotten around to heading out and picking up the oxy cylinder. ) This is where I left off after last week: Today, however, there was fire; and progress happened. I'm now getting much closer to having sufficient grot removed that I can start putting metal back in, which will be an amazing feeling; because as it is, I feel more like the scrap-man, I'm doing that much cutting! And the pile of scrap from these last two outings: I'm getting closer and closer to having that new bit of box section welded in place; whereupon I can see what space I have left to wiggle a rubber body-mount into, in place of the original, and will have a place to start building the floor back out from. Thankfully, the floor is pretty solid for the most part; around the rear and side of the passenger seat is where it's the worst, but there's enough of it left that I can work back from. I'll claw this back, one piece at a time! Might not be quick, nor particularly pretty; but it'll be solid. I can always come back and re-do the uglier parts in the future, when I've gotten better at the job and improved my skill. But, for now, "ugly & solid" is better than "gaping hole"
  14. Tamber

    Welding Ferrets

    Just chiming in with an agreement on this: Generally, I believe, the harder the material you're drilling, the shallower the point/included angle. It really isn't always as easy and clear-cut as one would like with spark tests, test-drilling, etc... It's almost like the material's out to get you, sometimes! (You'd think, by now, I'd be able to recognise AR plate vs mild steel plate; working in a shop that does a lot of both, but I have mostly learnt to recognise it by how it nigh-instantly dulls the bit when I start drilling into it, after profiling it out, etc, etc. ) Good to know the methods for spotting armour plate, though; just in case!
  15. Alrighty then! Since I'm doing my best to power on through burn-out at work sapping my will to live work on this hulk, I've dragged myself back onto the forum! The driver's door has been re-re-welded in places (Apparently, my inner reinforcement bar was not stuck where I thought it had stuck, so broke free and pulled a few little holes in the door skin in the process. Sigh.), and the tab for the bottom of the mirror arm has been welded on. I've also treated half of the inner surfaces of the door with rust converter, so I have to follow that up to the other side, and then go back in with some paint. Then I can put that back together, and re-fit it to the truck, which looks a little silly without it. L...ast week, I think? (It all blurs together), I did some more chopping and hacking of the rotten cab structure. Decided to do a video in a different style, a sort of faux time-lapse method; involving videoing it, then speeding up all the tedious bits to make them marginally less tedious. It did not work very well. Nevertheless, here it is: I don't think I'll continue that style of video, it's just too mind-numbing to edit and watch. Currently, the plan is -- weather, light, and mood permitting -- to roll my generator out to the old gal and finish removing that rotted-out section with a full-size angle grinder. Then I'll do my best to clean out & apply rust converter and paint to the inside of the other section where it doesn't appear to be as bad, before cutting a length of replacement box section to length and welding it in. It's just too cold and wet to be rolling around underneath the truck, in all the puddles, bending brake line.