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Tamber

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About Tamber

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  1. Went to change the oil in the compressor the other day, and was scratching my head over where the filler's supposed to be. It's very definitely meant to be right there, but it looks like it's met with an unfortunate end. And, on the note of unfortunate ends, the whole truck very nearly met one a couple of weeks back. I hooked up the battery as normal so that I could tinker some with the wiring (and make another attempt at getting the engine to fire, just to see if it's possible to limp it to the workshop & back.), I'd just gotten into the driver's seat and had my hand on the key when the oil pressure warning light started to glow dimly, getting brighter and brighter. "Well, that's weird", thinks I, then I start to hear crackling and the cab fills up with smoke. The cab is covered with a tarpaulin, so I'm at this point inside a big plastic bag with the smoke from burning wiring being blown in from the open passenger's door. It's amazing just how long it feels like it takes to undo a battery terminal while the truck's trying to set itself on fire! Anyway, it turns out that the flexible metal conduit from around the battery positive cable had scooted up at some point until it was just barely touching the ring terminal and it was grounding out on the chassis. It wasn't making a good enough contact to cause noticeable sparks when I connected the negative lead to the battery, but enough that the conduit got pretty hot! Once it cooled down enough to touch, I pulled it out and the battery cable inside the conduit was looking pretty ugly. Got lucky with that; the only damage was a length of battery cable, and some melted insulation on a couple of other wires nearby that I've mostly repaired. (Mostly! I keep forgetting to take my box of repair terminals with me.) That could've been much worse! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Now for something more relaxing; this evening's tinkering with the new front brake cylinders. These are some new old-stock that I got off the bay of E, so I figured I'd best open them up and see what the innards looked like. The first one I popped open looked to be the oldest, going off the appearance of the box, and all the innards are covered in a sticky substance that may at once point have been a lubricant or preservative. There's also something funny about one of those cup seals... Well, it turns out that cup seal that looks funny is harbouring a hitchhiker! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ All the seals -- in both cylinders -- feel fantastic, they're like they're still brand new! (I'll still pay the seals shop a visit, though.) And now, the cylinder bore... This is the worst of the two, and the bulk of it is the slightly congealed sticky substance. There was some very slight discolouration of the bore in the middle where the seals would ride in use, but it disappeared after a quick brush through with the brake cylinder hone. There's no pitting or rust, so these have turned out fantastic. Also, I got some motivation back... It's no great leap, but hearing it spit and crackle has lifted my spirits. It aent'nt ded yet.
  2. Ticked another item off the list! That bracket I needed to modify, got modified; and, with some jiggery-pokery everything got shoved into place and hot-metal glued. Only stitch welded on this side, because I needed to leave room for the nuts to go on. (And it was tight even as it was; the flange on the nut was pressed up against the box section.) If I were smarter and thought things out better, I would have started that leftmost one from where the tack was, so it'd consume it rather than leaving an ugly glob. Something for me to remember next time, I suppose. Looks slightly less bad with some paint on it. However, it really just needs to be stronger than the two M10 bolts that hold it down to the chassis, or the rubber of the mounts. And since it's fully welded across the back (which was a bit of an uncomfortable procedure, curled up like a cat halfway across the engine cover and in front of the passenger's seat.), it should be plenty strong enough. I am thinking I might go back and add some gussets to it, just in case. I'm hoping to push myself to get at least a little bit done every week, even if it's not much. Did find myself staring up at the cab roof and quietly wondering what in the hell I got myself into. 2 years + 8 months, and I've barely scratched the surface. I put most of that down to my pace of work, or lack thereof, honestly...
  3. I think my tape measure is out of calibration, that must be what it is! ๐Ÿ˜ I'm quite pleased with that air-tank installation, myself; there was quite a bit of head-scratching, trying to figure out where to put them so that they wouldn't look too out of place. Once the storage box is back on behind the cab, they should be nearly invisible but it should still be fairly easy to get to the air-tank drain taps.
  4. Today's mini-update: Some cab mounts! Mostly! Kinda! The rear mount is a pair of universal engine/gearbox mounts on a plate that bolts to the original cab mount. The upper part of that mount is where it all fell to pieces a bit. Apparently I wasn't quite accurate enough in my measurements, because it... didn't really fit. Those holes are meant to line up with the studs in the top of the mounts, and the upright flange was intended to then weld to the box section to spread the load a little bit. It does go on backwards just fine, though, so I'll do some trimming -- remove that upright -- and go from there. Not a great deal of progress today, but the cab is now sat on a mount rather than perching on some box section across the chassis. I also went out to my local engineering supplier and picked up some bolts for reattaching the door hinges to the door, so that I'm prepared for when the driver's door is ready to go back on, seeing as it's about 75% complete. Really would like to be making progress faster than this, especially with the looming workshop move (3 months, apparently! AAAA!), but work seems intent on running me into the ground as hard as possible every week... ๐Ÿ˜† Currently looking into options for renting a small-ish industrial unit, perhaps. We'll see how things go on that front.
  5. In a surprising fit of productivity, I booked last weekend off, and got something done on the old gal. The driver's door isn't perfect, but it's a damn sight better than it was before. Still a good bit to do before I can call it good enough to go back on. Might have to cut a bit back out of the top edge of the repair patch and re-make it, but it is solid even if it's ugly. I am somewhat throwing myself in at the deep end with the sheet metal bashing, to be honest; it's not something I've done a great lot of and I'm not so good at it, but I can always revisit parts I'm not happy with, as my skill improves. Something a bit more up my alley was mounting up two 'new' (to me, anyway) air tanks. All of the material, barring the tank straps themselves, was originally destined for scrap; so I think I've done quite nicely with it. The two tanks came off a pair of DAFs that were being chopped up by a local haulage firm (because it's apparently cheaper to buy a used truck, strip it down and sell/scrap what's left over, than to buy spare parts. Madness.) and are a bit overkill for the needs of the RL, but I'll certainly have no shortage of air! The channel was originally a single piece of box section out of the scrap skip that was just about the right length, then sliced longways; and the tanks are protected from rubbing on the edges of the bracket by short lengths of cut rubber air-hose left over from a job. Total cost to me: ยฃ5 for a tank drain valve that then got pinched for another job, so I'll have to buy another one. Bah. The bracket is as follows: (Sack-truck not included. ๐Ÿ˜) And it fits in under the body, here: ("I said: IT FITS UNDER THE BODY!") And then, with a lot of head-bashing, rolling around on the gravel, getting crud in my eyes, removing linkages to give me room... Two air tanks: Still a long way to go, yet, but at least parts are starting to go back on; rather than just get ripped off. I have no comment regarding it taking 5 hours, and a minor concussion, to fit two air tanks and a bracket. ๐Ÿค I keep meaning to write out a list of all the things I need to do to get this truck finished, but it's a little daunting at the moment.
  6. You're correct there in that a modern wheel won't bolt straight up, and I went into that knowing such. This was mostly to get an idea of spacing, and whether or not it was even close to fitting. I'd done some measuring, but there's nothing quite like bolting it up and seeing it with one's own eyes. The way I look at it is, I'm going to have to spend money whichever way I go on this project; whether it's getting tubes & tyres for the original wheels, or having modern wheels re-engineered to fit the old truck then getting tyres for those. At least tyres for the modern wheels should be easier to get, particularly at short notice in the worst case. Either way I go with that, I'm not intending to modify the truck, so it can all be put back to original if someone else further down the line decides to do that. Regarding the rubber boot, I'm afraid I haven't the foggiest. (As I understand it, it's not particularly a seal but more of a dust & moisture cover to prevent grot getting into the back of the master cylinder.) Hopefully John's post helps you find the part you're hunting!
  7. Thanks! No idea how I manglaged that. ๐Ÿ˜
  8. Tamber

    Movie editing

    For what little it's worth, I use OpenShot for editing my video; I'm not really sure how it compares to other video editing software for ease of use, and it can be an exercise in patience as the amount of video loaded into it gets larger.
  9. Now, I didn't get a great lot done last week, when I stuck on an รœberbrรคcket at the back for another twirly light amongst some other puttering about The รœberbrรคcket, named because it's only holding up a twirly light the same as the one on the roof, yet I made it out of a piece of 10mm (3/8"-ish) steel that I had laying around that was the right size, and severely welded it. It's not bloody coming off without taking the crane with it, I think! Our victim, after a little marking out: After some weldering: It feels surprisingly high up; but that plate is just about eye level if you're stood on the bed of the truck. Well, as long as you're short, like me. And with the twirly stuck on it... Not too worried about it not really being visible from the left hand side, it's mostly just to act as a 'repeater' to the rear of the truck, where the jib blocks the view to the one on the roof. Anyway, the lesson here is: if you see a chunk of something getting chucked in the scrap bin that looks useful, snag it and put it in your overflowing box of "Might be useful, that" bits. Then, maintain your hoard jealously, just in case you might need those bits; which inevitably happens just after you throw them out... Some other trinkets while I was re-exploring the side lockers... This has got a bit of age on it! Fairly sure it's older than I am, anyway. And it has not aged terribly well... Looks pretty cool, though. On more practical matters... I think I have a solution to the brake servo valve. Rather than try re-engineer the internals of the original valve, my current plan is to take an off-the-shelf part and use it kinda as it's intended to be used. I've gotten myself a foot brake valve from a DAF CF (but they're all fairly similar, really. It's fundamentally the same valve as has been used for decades.), and the intent is to fabricate a bracket that mounts it up near the brake pedal such that I can fit a little push-rod from the existing pedal linkage to operate the valve exactly as it is in the air-braked truck. There will be some careful measuring & design going on to get things in the right place to produce the correct throw on the foot-brake valve, relative to the pedal movement. Wheely silly bits... While I was fiddling about last week, I also did some playing about with a modern truck wheel that was laying about nearby. (I think it belonged to the bus company that was here before.) Gloss black would look good. As good as it looks, there's some slight clearance issues. Some faffing about with measuring offsets, widths, etc. ensues. Currently trying to work out what I can get away with, wheel-wise, that lets me fit a fairly standard (modern) on/off M+S type tyre. This 'test wheel' is a 22.5x7.50 and some brief searching tells me that the more normal modern truck wheel is a 22.5x8.25, so I'll try find one of those to check with. Oh, and the offset of the wheel I was testing with puts the inner lip of the wheel hard up against the track rod end, which is less than ideal. I don't think I want that to self-clearance... (And yes, I know the track rod end needs a new boot; it's on the list!) I have a total of 250mm from the mounting face on the hub, to the tie rod end interference; so I shall have to hunt down another wheel, ideally without tyre, and do some more measuring. And to bring you fully up to date... A video, wherein there is some weldening, I look like Darth Vader (black helmet, with a hideous blotchy pink thing inside :D), and some painting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ze9Giv40XA (I would've done the embed thing, but I can't remember how to make the video show up on the page and I've already spent too much time faffing with it! It's been a long week, and it's only a Monday for me!) Yes, my shiny dome got sunburnt. Yes, it hurts. Yes, I should've worn a hat.
  10. That's definitely an option. So far, it doesn't seem to be too bright, and it points away from eye-line when on anyway; we'll see how it works out. In other news items, I did some work! It involved cooking for a little bit in the sun. A little bit of drilling and metal-sticking later, I had this; which was sprayed with weld-through primer. And that fine bit of engineering fits... ...here! This surprisingly only a little jiggery-pokery involved in getting it to fit; mostly in shortening the weld-through tab on the near-side until it fit with the not-exactly-stock battery box. And, a major milestone reached today, with the first metal going back in, in a long time. Still quite a bit more welding to do, particularly on the near-side where it's only tacked into place for now due to access being slightly restricted by cabling; however, with a bit more welding on the offside, I got it to the point I could lift the cab up off the chassis by jacking it by the end of the new cross-member, which is a good sign. This was the result of about 4 or so hours, including about an hour spent trying to get the generator to start, because the battery was flat and I didn't have any jump-leads. However, progress was made, today.
  11. The front panels cleaned up quite nicely, which was a relief, especially considering the paint on the grille was coming off in huge flakes right down to bare metal! Definitely got lucky in that it was still metal, and wasn't just blowing away in the wind! ๐Ÿ˜ I might be at it for some time! ๐Ÿ˜ The recent stretch of nice weather is definitely helping give more time to get things done, I just now need to start getting things done. Speaking of small progress... Rear brake pipes on the axle finally fully connected up, with the unions I was waiting on. (Automec was the supplier this time.) Rest of the system to follow. ...also some cleaning and painting of that axle, because it looks hideous! And a little switch panel. The ends of the switches illuminate when they're switched on, to serve as the tell-tales. 3 yellow, one blue for the fog light. (I have my suspicions that the blue one may be too bright, from using a similar one at work that was -- as per bloody usual with blue LEDs -- retina-searingly bright. If that turns out to be the case, I'll install a resistor to drop the brightness a little. Or a lottle.) Proper labels will follow when I decide how I want to label it. Self-adhesive labels just seem a bit naff, so it might have to be little brass plates. ๐Ÿ˜ This picture also shows the state that the roof is in. I had previously scuffed off all the flaking paint, and shot a quick coat of red primer just to make it easier to see what was going on and what needed fixing. One piece at a time, and all that.
  12. Miniature update, just to note that I'm still here and still making tiny bits of progress! Been struggling a little for motivation recently, but I'm trying to keep pushing onwards on little things that I can see. The list of bits: The gearbox oil was changed. A little thing, but it did need it. No signs of anything horrific in the old oil, which is good news. Next on the list for a fluid change is probably the transfer case. A little more brake pipe has appeared on the rear axle. Some blood was spilt in the process, but I've been informed that's actually for good luck. ๐Ÿ˜ Yes, I am going to have to join those with M-M unions. I'm not quite good enough to do the whole run in one go, yet. It has quite a circuitous route to follow, and bending this diameter pipe without kinking it takes some practise. It's certainly easier with 3/16" pipe, for sure! I have enough hard-line left to do only about 90% of the run from the rear flexible pipe, to the master cylinder, naturally. So I'll have to order another length, and use the existing material to plumb the fronts. (Especially considering my material loss rates! I'm getting better at not kinking it while just trying to adjust it that last little bit, though.) I also need to do some hunting around to find somewhere I can get to make up the flexible lines with the 1/2UNF ends, once I'm confident I have the right length worked out. Some cleaning and painting has happened. Not the most vital thing, but it needs doing, and it's a visible improvement that helps with the motivation. with some elbow-grease, wire brushes, and sandpaper, became (I will be replicating the markings once it's painted proper.) Moving forwards, I started knocking off the flaky paint and grime, with the intent of just priming up the areas that were at risk of showing bare metal. Well, then I started getting a little carried away with the brush, since it looked so good! It definitely shows up the areas that need serious attention, though. Which, in a way, is a good thing. The grille really was flaking quite badly, so since I was apparently painting the whole damn truck that day, I decided I'd just carry on with that. Big chunks of paint were coming off, right down to bare metal, so it really did need it to protect against the elements Wire brush in a drill, and a little scraping, cleared this quite well. It really didn't take much to dislodge those big flakes. ...followed up by rust treatment. Kurust, in this case, which is my preferred rust converter. Then, when that dried off, a coat of red-oxide primer followed. Much better! I fitted a new beacon on the roof. It doesn't have quite the same look to it as the old Lucas one, but it has the advantage of working; and it'll do the job quite adequately, once I get it wired in. Fitting that also reminded me just how rough the roof is. Plenty of sheet metal work ahead of me yet, and I really do need to pick up the pace a little, I know. I've stripped the tyre inflater down, cleaned out a lot of grunge, and rebuilt it... and it still leaks air straight through from the output side. Need to dig back into it and see what I can do about that. Not sure whether it's just that the conical rubber portion of the valve is so hard with age that it's not sealing properly against the valve seat, or whether there's something I've missed about how it works. So, unfortunately, it's the same old sad story of not having gotten a lot done. To add further insult, we've had glorious weather for nearly two weeks up here, and rather than spending that time working on the RL, I've been having to fix my car to get it to pass the MOT! (Corrosion and brake pipes, seems to be a bit of a running theme at the moment.) Bah! ๐Ÿ™„
  13. Tamber

    More Ferret woes, now oil leak!

    Now, this is just a thought from someone with no experience of a Ferret, but... I would have to wonder if the gains would be worth the extra heat, complexity, and stress on the engine. Heat very quickly becomes a problem on a significant number of vehicles modified by turbo or supercharging, even when they're not as heavy and covered in armour plate! And that's even before getting into the question of space limitations within the engine bay. And if you did get a worthwhile increase in power, that's putting more stress on the rest of the drive-train. (etc etc) Fuel injection is within the realm of possibility, and I am admittedly a fan of it (When it's not a locked up, un-diagnosable black box, anyway...), but again I'd wonder about the value of the gains one might see from that conversion. Perhaps if you're using a Ferret as a daily driver, you could eke out a bit more fuel efficiency?
  14. Tamber

    Wire size

    Modern vehicle wiring, as mentioned, tends to be engineered down to a spec; as thin a wire as the manufacturer can get away with (Helps shave costs, weight, and makes it easier to fit the not-insignificant amounts of cable required for all the gubbins that manufacturers cram into a modern vehicle.) , and designing to avoid long runs that need to transmit high current (To allow the use of smaller cable, etc.) Older vehicle wiring tends to be simpler, and do things that result in long runs that have to carry a high current; for example, headlights, powered directly via the switch... And it's those types of cable runs that could potentially stand to benefit from thicker cable; others, like low-wattage lights, I'd say keeping it the original size is probably better simply from the standpoint of saving money on wire. (I say this, having a not insignificant collection of wire spools already. Vehicle wiring is kinda my thing, in case you couldn't tell.) So my 'simple' answer is: It depends. Headlight wiring, starter solenoid wiring, etc? Go to a slightly bigger cable. Something like sidelight wiring? Unless there's a measurable voltage drop or the lights are dimmer than they should be, using the same size cable will be fine.
  15. Tamber

    Who's going out in the snow then?

    Maybe one day!
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