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johann morris

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johann morris last won the day on April 6

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About johann morris

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    Wales

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  1. Hello Citroen Man, Thanks for the video, no I hadn't seen that before, I would be incredible to find something like that and then restore it. Evening All, Just a quick update, in truth there's not much to tell, I seem to have spent the last week doing everything other than the tank. Getting the final drives inline with the steering box took quite a lot of time and I lost count of how many times I had to remove the steering box to make alterations but the easy side is almost complete apart from the drive shaft cover. The right hand side has been a right pain because of the limited space and the need to have the longest possible splines on the drive shaft. Time has moved on from when I was a full time machinist, had someone brought us a hardened shaft and asked us to machine splines on it, it would have been a no go but I bought a carbide cutter and even my old milling machine made easy work of the job, impressed, I should say so. In my opinion this is still the weak point in the drive chain but time will tell. I fear that things may slow down even further in the near future as I have some rooms to refurbish in an old rectory. Jon
  2. Evening All, Today I trial fitted the first final drive unit, it all lined up as anticipated. The original had an armoured cover over the final drives, obviously my cover won't be armoured but it will hide the castings and make the area look roughly like the original. The big question is, can I get my welding to look like the original? Jon
  3. To be honest, I liked doing the electrics, it was a challenge, the machining is just the same old same old but it doesn't matter what I am doing, it's interesting. Yes that's the output from the steering box, the input shaft for the final drive will somehow be attached and final drive casting will cover it. However, there will be a cover that covers the final drive casting, so that it all looks as near as possible as the original did. Connecting the steering box to the final drive on the left side of the hull is the easy side, if it can be called easy, the right side is a completely different matter because there is very little space available between the output of the steering box and the final drive casting. I have a plan, lets just hope that it works. Jon Jon
  4. Guten Abend zusammen, The steering box is bolted in it's final resting position, which isn't exactly as per the original but because of the components that i am using it was always was going to be a compromise. The final drives / reduction boxes stuck out too much from the side of the chassis, meaning that the front sprockets wouldn't be inline with the rest of the wheels. I therefore removed material from the castings, first of all with an angle grinder and then I finished them to size on the milling machine. The next problem was bolting the final drives to the chassis as I had cut the original studs off of the castings. There are six 1/2" UNC threaded holes already in the front of the castings that I can utilise but I need some in the flange area. The answer was to drill five new holes for M16 bolts and then weld bosses on the rear of the flange so that the flange bolt securely on to the chassis. The output shaft was then reassembled into the casting so that I can position the final drive housing onto the chassis and drill all the attaching holes. That's all for now folks, Jon
  5. It's looking really good and I am impressed with your press tool and the end result. Very nice indeed. Jon
  6. Afternoon, My big brother came to visit us today, well in actual fact, he came to see the Panzer. As I had tided things up yesterday, he didn't see the mass of wires so I don't think he could appreciate what a real headache it has been. A somewhat tidier engine bay
  7. To be honest no, it was a very interesting exercise and I understand more about the system than I did before. Unfortunately I am so busy, give it a week or so and the information will be overwritten in my little brain. It will still be there but I will have to concentrate damn hard to retrieve it. I have made notes and identify the various wires for future reference so that should help. The engine loom is all tided up and the engine has been started several times. There are some aspects that I am not happy with but once the steering box and final drives have been connected to the gearbox the whole lot can come out for spraying and then any concerns addressed. Jon
  8. Thanks Paul but I am not mad, it's just the voices in my head. Anyway, all's well, the engine starts, revs but I have another problem, the exhaust is toooooooooooo quiet, now I didn't expect that ! Jon
  9. BRDM, Vehicle electrics, what can you say. One day perfectly good vehicles will be useless because of them. I find it hard to believe that our armed forces buy vehicles that are reliant on electrics. Rick, One step forward, two steps back, The oil pipe was a stupid mistake on my part, my son connected the pipes together and I didn't check them. Still I have made a modified version of the connector and I am waiting yet again for supplies, god this area can be frustrating some times. Simon, Thanks, to be truthful after emptying the oil over the floor I was rather issed off but the worst part is that I know that I can't buy the items that I need locally so I have to rely on the internet. Rely, internet, Ha Ha Ha...…….. Jon
  10. Evening All, This is a long one but where to start. The petrol tank is finished and the new engine is in place, so now on to the electrics. I have an engine, a wiring loom and two ECU's, one engine and one gearbox. The wiring loom doesn't fit the engine, the concept of plug and play has gone out of the window, the wiring loom is the wrong loom for my engine ECU. The ECU requires one yellow plug and one black, my loom has one yellow and one blue plug, that doesn't fit the ECU. As far as I can ascertain, the loom is for a 3.2ltr, my engine is a 3.6ltr. What to do. In a moment of shear depression, I did think about trying to find the correct loom but then I thought, what the hell, I will rewire the whole thing. The Haynes manual is like the proverbial chocolate tea pot, so after a lot of searching on line, I found a wiring diagram for a 3.6 of roughly the right vintage and begun chopping. This is definitely not a job for the faint hearted, it involved altering, and I am not exaggerating, about 80% of the wiring loom, even the colours are different. Eventually after two days of chopping and adding I was getting somewhere but where I wasn't sure. Even the simple items had either more of fewer wires. At last I turned the key, nothing. There was, in the loom, a group of about 10 wires that were all permennant lives, in other words they were live even when the ignition key was turned off, something I don't like, so I cut them into individuals and traced where they went, ignored what I didn't think was important and connected the remainder, just one. After my initial test or failure, I realised that I needed a second permenant live to the ECU, this was connected and I tried again, the ECU fired up along with the fuel pump. I now had two of the main items, a cranking engine and fuel but no spark. When the expert, had decided that I needed a different engine, part of his reasoning was that this engine didn't require an ignition amplifier. I spent hours looking for a wiring diagram that didn't require this amplifier but I couldn't find one, so I rang the expert. Now amazingly he told me to ignore what he had told me and fit an amplifier. This should give you some idea of what I have been up against. The amplifier was ordered and duly arrived. The wiring diagram showed 5 wires, the amplifier had 7 connections and the plug had 7 connections but only one of the wire colours in the plug matched the diagram and that was in a different position in the plug. Again, back to the internet but I couldn't find the relevant diagram. What I did find, was a thread where a bloke had wired in his amplifier incorrectly and attached pictures of the connections and their relevant place in the plug. There's a but, the plug had 7 spaces but only 3 wires were connected. The wiring loom that I have, originally only had 3 wires, of course the colours didn't match but I decided to attach these 3 wires into the plug as per his picture and blow me I had a spark. Today I reassembled the cooling unit into the hull, connected everything up, filled the cooling system, attached a temporary fuel tank and pressed the starter. After the fourth attempt it started, what a sweet note from the exhaust, well for 30 seconds and then the oil pipe to the oil cooler shot off and emptied 8 litres of oil on the floor. Bugger. I have to admit that I have shortened this story so that you don't consider suicide. Jon
  11. Thanks for the reply's, so have I misinterpreted the mvt guidance. That states, that a vehicle needs to be to an mot standard, I assumed that meant, that the vehicle had to have an mot before you could register it regardless of age. If that's incorrect, then happy days and I will start the process tomorrow. Jon
  12. I am going to get my 1944 Morris C8 GS Mot'ed so that I can register it, can anyone one tell me the gross weight. The workshop manual that I have gives a weight of 2Tons 12cwt 1 quart and 14 pounds but I think that that is the unladen weight, is that correct? Jon
  13. It looks like the tank has been repaired previously, if so, the metal underneath that patch is going to be truly rotten and to be repaired properly is going to need to be cut out. As others has suggested try solder first, good luck. Jon
  14. Or just cut the area out, weld in a patch and just to be on the safe side, coat the inside with a sealant such as POR. Jon
  15. Richard, you are good, final drives from a tractor, although considered more of a medium sized model in it's day. I am sure that they will take a bit of adjustment to fit but yes I am glad that some inspiration appeared and if I need another set, I know where to go. Now back to the wiring. Jon
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